MOTM

Hmm I just had a thought (woah this could be scary) :)

Has anyone ever heard of Digitechs pitch-shifting pedals for guitar?  
Is there a way to simulate this effect with a MOTM-300?  Maybe use 
one of the expression pedals that Big Briar makes, plugged into one 
of the FM inputs...

If this would work is there a way to "tune" it so that when the pedal 
is all the way back there is now effect on the VCO, and when the 
pedal is pushed all the way forward it increases the pitch a full 
octave?  This way you could be playing along and just stomp on the 
pedal and get some neat "wammy bar" effects.


later
John

A seemingly simple question, with a seemingly simple answer too.  Certainly,
the FM inputs on the VCO are perfectly suited for such an application.  Any
CV source into these inputs will "bend" the pitch of the oscillator.  While
many pedals may not go back exactly to zero, you would want to tune the
oscillator with the pedal plugged in the full back position and then use the
FM knob to set the upper end of the bend range with the pedal pushed all the
way forward.

Of course, you need a CV pedal (simple). You could buy a CV pedal, or hack 4
"AA" batteries into a guitar pedal.  Or use a pedal interface module
(snicker).  Paul has promised us one.  To possibly speed the process, I am
sending along a prototype of my pedal interface module for consideration.

Or, if you just have a regular guitar volume pedal, use something like the
MOTM-800 output for your 5 volt source and plug that into your guitar pedal
input.  Take the guitar pedal output and run it to the VCO FM input.  Not
perfect, but it will work.

Larry H

----- Original Message -----
From: John <jpyyz@...>
If this would work is there a way to "tune" it so that
when the pedal is all the way back there is now effect
on the VCO, and when the pedal is pushed all the way
forward it increases the pitch a full octave?  This way
you could be playing along and just stomp on the
pedal and get some neat "wammy bar" effects.

Thanks for your help Larry!!!

John P

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Forgive me if this is known problem.  I would email Paul S. directly, but
he is on a much deserved holiday.

The pots and jacks will not fit in the 410 panel I have.  This isn't
because of the way I soldered the Spectrol pots as not even one pot will
fit.  The Bourns pots won't fit either.  Neither do any of the jacks.

I tested the same pots with the 800 panel (the only other panel I have
left).  The jacks fit, 410 Spectrol pots fit, the pcb Bourns pots from the
800 kit fit, but the lug Bourns pots from the 410 do not.

I'm thinking the 410 panel might have been drilled with the wrong size bit.

Has anyone heard of this before??

On a happy note, I assembled the 320 and 820 and they seem to be working
perfectly, including 820 bypass function with my Kenton Pro 4 :)

Overall, I am delighted with the design, function, build quality, and
detailed instructions, of each kit.  I just seem to have run into a dead
end in finishing my 410.

THANX!!

The panels were drilled the correct size.  I don't think Paul has ordered
new '420 FPs recently.

The problem is paint and tolerance.  Because of the paint, the holes get a
little too small.  I always test fit all of the jacks and pots even before I
start stuffing the PCB.  The tighter ones I just start wiggling around until
the paint is stripped away.  You could use a small files or drill bit to
gently do the same thing.

--Shemp

P.S.  I HATE the new reply method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

> Forgive me if this is known problem.  I would email Paul S. directly, but
> he is on a much deserved holiday.
>
> The pots and jacks will not fit in the 410 panel I have.  This isn't
> because of the way I soldered the Spectrol pots as not even one pot will
> fit.  The Bourns pots won't fit either.  Neither do any of the jacks.
>
> I tested the same pots with the 800 panel (the only other panel I have
> left).  The jacks fit, 410 Spectrol pots fit, the pcb Bourns pots from the
> 800 kit fit, but the lug Bourns pots from the 410 do not.
>
> I'm thinking the 410 panel might have been drilled with the wrong
> size bit.
>
> Has anyone heard of this before??
>
> On a happy note, I assembled the 320 and 820 and they seem to be working
> perfectly, including 820 bypass function with my Kenton Pro 4 :)
>
> Overall, I am delighted with the design, function, build quality, and
> detailed instructions, of each kit.  I just seem to have run into a dead
> end in finishing my 410.
>

inserting a large flat screwdriver into the hole from the back of the
panel and giving it a few twists does the trick too, i broke 3 of the 4
board mounted pots on my 420 by "forcing" them through ( a mistake i'll
never make again...) the screwdriver method has worked for me ever since
-nate

Aardvark wrote:

>  I had this with a couple holes on my kits and found when I looked
> real close I could see that the black finish had been applied thicker
> around those holes... I simply used a 3/8 drill bit to clean it out
> the excess and voila the pots fit perfectly! Hope this helps!Al
>
>      -----Original Message-----
>      From: mark@... [mailto:mark@...]
>      Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 10:23 PM
>      To: motm@yahoogroups.com
>      Subject: [motm] 410 panel trouble
>
>
>
>      Forgive me if this is known problem.  I would email Paul S.
>      directly, but
>      he is on a much deserved holiday.
>
>      The pots and jacks will not fit in the 410 panel I have.
>      This isn't
>      because of the way I soldered the Spectrol pots as not even
>      one pot will
>      fit.  The Bourns pots won't fit either.  Neither do any of
>      the jacks.
>
>      I tested the same pots with the 800 panel (the only other
>      panel I have
>      left).  The jacks fit, 410 Spectrol pots fit, the pcb Bourns
>      pots from the
>      800 kit fit, but the lug Bourns pots from the 410 do not.
>
>      I'm thinking the 410 panel might have been drilled with the
>      wrong size bit.
>
>      Has anyone heard of this before??
>
>      On a happy note, I assembled the 320 and 820 and they seem
>      to be working
>      perfectly, including 820 bypass function with my Kenton Pro
>      4 :)
>
>      Overall, I am delighted with the design, function, build
>      quality, and
>      detailed instructions, of each kit.  I just seem to have run
>      into a dead
>      end in finishing my 410.
>
>      THANX!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>      Service.
>
>
>                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
  [www.debticated.com]

>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Tentochi <tentochi@...>
P.S.  I HATE the new reply method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You will get used to it.  It's just like S-DIY and all the good 
lists now.  :)

Larry (I LOVE this new reply method) Hendry

I use my trusty General Tools brand T-Handle Reamer available from these
folks:
http://www.tecratools.com/pages/service/punches.html
( second from the bottom of the page )

A few turns from either side of the front panel will enlarge the hole just
enough to make everything fit and the hole will remain perfectly round.

Use this only on the bare front panel ( without circuit board or pots or
jacks attached ) and do it only over a wastebasket and clean the panel
carefully after - you *will* generate lots of little pieces of nasty
conductive swarf that need to be gotten rid of.  Check the fit with a pot or
jack, treat the holes that need it and then start the front panel assembly.



-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: Tentochi [mailto:tentochi@...]
-> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 7:30 PM
-> To: MOTM Mailing List
-> Subject: RE: [motm] 410 panel trouble
->
->
-> The panels were drilled the correct size.  I don't think
-> Paul has ordered
-> new '420 FPs recently.
->
-> The problem is paint and tolerance.  Because of the paint,
-> the holes get a
-> little too small.  I always test fit all of the jacks and
-> pots even before I
-> start stuffing the PCB.  The tighter ones I just start
-> wiggling around until
-> the paint is stripped away.  You could use a small files or
-> drill bit to
-> gently do the same thing.
->
-> --Shemp
->
-> P.S.  I HATE the new reply method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
->
->
-> > Forgive me if this is known problem.  I would email Paul
-> S. directly, but
-> > he is on a much deserved holiday.
-> >
-> > The pots and jacks will not fit in the 410 panel I have.
-> This isn't
-> > because of the way I soldered the Spectrol pots as not
-> even one pot will
-> > fit.  The Bourns pots won't fit either.  Neither do any of
-> the jacks.
-> >
-> > I tested the same pots with the 800 panel (the only other
-> panel I have
-> > left).  The jacks fit, 410 Spectrol pots fit, the pcb
-> Bourns pots from the
-> > 800 kit fit, but the lug Bourns pots from the 410 do not.
-> >
-> > I'm thinking the 410 panel might have been drilled with the wrong
-> > size bit.
-> >
-> > Has anyone heard of this before??
-> >
-> > On a happy note, I assembled the 320 and 820 and they seem
-> to be working
-> > perfectly, including 820 bypass function with my Kenton Pro 4 :)
-> >
-> > Overall, I am delighted with the design, function, build
-> quality, and
-> > detailed instructions, of each kit.  I just seem to have
-> run into a dead
-> > end in finishing my 410.
-> >
->
->
->
->
-> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
-> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
->
->

>I use my trusty General Tools brand T-Handle Reamer available from these
>folks:
>http://www.tecratools.com/pages/service/punches.html
>( second from the bottom of the page )
>
>A few turns from either side of the front panel will enlarge the hole just
>enough to make everything fit and the hole will remain perfectly round.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post.  Last night, by using a 3/8"
titanium bit and a tap wrench, I was able to scrape away enough to make the
one of the pots fit.  I had forgotten how soft aluminum is.  Still, I don't
think it is just the paint, as I had to take off quite a bit of metal, and
it still isn't the best fit.  I still haven't decided what I'm going to do.

Regardless, I think this panel should have been drilled to a higher
tolerance (13/32, 25/64, etc.) taking into account the paint or whatever
post process is causing this in the first place, as I'm sure that many of
the people who buy these kits are not prepared to deal with this problem.

>Use this only on the bare front panel ( without circuit board or pots or
>jacks attached ) and do it only over a wastebasket and clean the panel
>carefully after - you *will* generate lots of little pieces of nasty
>conductive swarf that need to be gotten rid of.

Swarf??  I hadn't considered using a Neumann :)  Was this at 33 or 45?? If
I use Sontec Compudisk, will it also calculate the size of the holes?? :)

>Check the fit with a pot or jack, treat the holes that need it and
>then start the front panel assembly.