Cabinets: Woodworking, etc.
2001-03-12 by Tkacs, Ken
Thanks for the info! That's the approach that I plan to take, but I haven't yet used biscuits on anything, so I wasn't sure how well they'd work. But I'm a big fan of "The New Yankee Workshop," and Norm Abrahms sure has faith in them. I will probably get one of those biscuit cutter attachments for my router... hope it works as well as a dedicated instrument for light duty use. I think when I finally get around to my cabinet I will use internal corner blocks, though, glued & screwed. I plan on beveling the upper edges 45-degrees to hide the seams, so a biscuit isn't practical there (I think...?). I'm sure that bevel will end up being my worst nightmare with the project, but I want to try to hide seams and hardware as much as possible so that all the eye sees is warm wood & cool knobs! It seems generally taken for granted that 3/4" wood is the way to go, whether solid or ply. I was hoping to get away with either 5/8" or even 1/2" hardwood for my cabinets. They wont go on the road, just see studio use for the most part, but naturally I want them to be sturdy and last. With the cross bracing, a back on the cabinets, and the modules screwed in all over the place I am hoping that there would be enough stability with 1/2" wood. Do folks knowledgeable in cabinetry think this is suicide? I'd really like to cut down on the weight if I could, and that extra 1/4" can make a big difference to the mass and look of the cabinets. I would love to hear opinions or horror stories on this subject.
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-----Original Message----- From: mate_stubb@... [mailto:mate_stubb@...] Sent: Monday, 12 March, 2001 9:52 AM To: motm@yahoogroups.com Subject: [motm] Re: Case update Biscuits and glue, mostly. On the cab corners, I'll probably add glue blocks that are screwed from the inside, but the biscuits are so strong that it's probably overkill.