Wow, I don't read my mail for a short while and the MOTM conversations explode! So, I have a few things to correct here about "Moog Style" cabinets: 1. Yes, wood is used as the main brace on a "lower" Moog cabinet, it has an angled front that matches the slope of the cabinet. 2. *MOOG MODULES ARE NOT MOUNTED TO WOOD!* 3. There is a standard metal rail that is mounted to the wood rails with flat head wood screws. The machine screws for the modules are short enough that they don't go into the wood, or if they do, they don't go very far. 4. The lower panel of half-height modules is broken up and attached with hinges so you can get at the lower panels. It is tough to do this from the rear when the panels are at angle. Having said all of this, why do you need to have a 90 degree bend in the rails? How 'bout flattening the current rails, lengthening them, and then adding some holes for wood screws. You could make them in buttable lengths of 5U, 7U, and 10U or some set that allows folks to customize the lengths they need. This makes the bracing of rails a cabinet making problem and probably makes for lower cost rails (no bend needed). The wood rails should be strong enough. It worked for Dr. Bob and those cabinets are pretty tough. I was planning a 27U wide cabinet, 48.25" x 9.5" x 9.5" out of .75" wood with the cheeks routed out to make them .5" at the front going back about 4.5". This would match a Moog "upper" cabinet (I may be slightly off on the height and depth in my measurements above). If I couldn't make something work with the chopped up MOTM rails, I was resigned to using wood screws but I wasn't too happy about it. Eric
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RE: Cabinet Rails.
2000-02-01 by Crawley, Eric
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