MOTM

At 11:01 PM 1/24/00 -0600, Stooge Larry wrote:
>Please supply the gory details.  I have six of the old style.

Sorry to convert private e-mail to public, but this is of interest
to all, and several requested the info.

First - full credit for the mod should go to Paul Schreiber, but
any mistakes are my fault or your own fault.  This has worked for
me on 3 EGs, but I take no responsibility for any problems that
may arise from your attempts.  I reverse-engineered the mod from 
the MOTM-800B PCB, and discovered in the process that the new 
800B schematic had a small mistake.  I've already reported this 
to Paul S.

Supplies: 
  one 1K resistor
  one 1N4148 or 1N914 diode
  one 4 inch piece of insulated wire.

Equipment orientation:
  Place the MOTM-800 module on it's side with the the power plug up,
  jacks at the bottom and the pots to the right.

+---+
|*  |P
|   |P
|RR |P <- R6 and R3 are here
|   |P
+---+
 J J
 J J

Step-by-step:

1.  Locate R6, 1/3 of the way up the board.  Our goal is to place 
    a diode parallel with R6, with the band UP.  I heated up the
    joints and SLIGHTLY lifted each resistor lead out of the joint.
    Then I laid the diode above the resistor, and bent the leads
    creating the two legs that would come into contact with the 
    resistor.  I then formed a hook part way down each leg.  This
    hook will be wrapped around the resistor lead and soldered on.

2.  Locate R3, to the right of R6 and the yellow Capacitor.  we want
    to attach a 1K Ohm resistor to the TOP of R3.  Once again, I 
    formed a hook and tacked it on, leaving the resistor basically
    suspended in mid-air.  I formed a loop on the other end of the
    resistor BEFORE I soldered it in place (to avoid breaking my
    solder joint).  This loop is then soldered to a piece of wire,
    which should be threaded down to the switching input of the
    Trigger jack (and soldered in).  You'll probably have to clip about 
    an inch of excess wire off.

Be sure not to leave any stray leads poking out anywhere, and
make sure the in-air "loop" is very close to the resistor, so that
the 1K resistor doesn't wander around much.  Also, don't get your
iron too close to capacitor C3, or it will start melting!

Another thing - if you have multiple EGs to mod, do one of them and test
it on a VCA.

The only bad thing about my mod is that the 1K resistor above R3 is not
very mechanically secure.  I suppose a more professional approach would
include a bit of shrink-fit tubing to cover up the resistor-to-wire 
"loop."

Good Luck and you're on your own.

Roy Tate

Roy Tate
roytate@...