Hi All ! That no-clean solder "wet's" a bit harder, i think it has to do with the flux used, but i've experienced no "tooth-paste" effects . This with an unregulated iron . Since a good week i'm using a kit-built electronic soldering station, and get similar results to the organic and rosin solder, with the temperature 20C higher . At this temp the organic and rosin solders splatter more . That no clean solder still leaves a deposit, but i gather that this is inoffensive . Not all rosin solders are the same . I still got some that resulted in a brown molasses-like crust . Here in europe it is almost impossible to find anything else than rosin based solder in shops . (But my stock of no-clean is growing ;-) ) Another thing is that double sided boards "take" more solder than single sided . Hence more flux remains . Vinegar is acetic acid, afaik always liquid . Probably still got lung damage from the years passed poring over the infamous "stop- bath" used in B-W chemical photography . I believe nowadays citric acid or potassium-bromide is used here . Citric acid is available in cristallline form, so could be used in solder . But there are many more compounds around . It's anybody's guess what they are actually using . The smoke it gives off is no less irritating than the rosin fumes, imo, but the smell is different :) Freons are good products with the unfortunate property of destroying the ozone layer . They are rightly banned from most applications, and production has stopped afaik . The airliner industry still uses halon fire extinguishing systems, as they are still the best way to put out a fire . And they are not poisonous when inhaled . Releasing massive amounts of co2, as normal for electrical fires, in the confines of that pressurised cigar-tube is just not on :) . The freons used here are religiously recuperated and recycled, at great cost . In the "cold" industry replacements are used that are similar but less reactive . I assemble my boards in 3 layers, depending on the height of the components . Recently i got an assembling frame that can hold the board at 3 different depths (4 euro cards/MOTM boards at once, if needed) . One closes a foam lined lid over the parts, flips over the frame and the soldering fest can begin :) No splaying of leads to hold the components . Still, i only solder one lead per component at first, then inspect and adjust, then the rest of the pins . Before the frame i used a diy version of this procedure . Haa, nothing like a vacation to write long emails :) Off to the next module . Bye for now . Keep 'em oscillating :) Hugo =
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Re: Electrolytic Cap Placement & Solder
1999-11-23 by Hugo Haesaert
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