MOTM

I have posted a lot of this in the past, but it was on my mind and I wanted to
share with those who may not have seen this before.

These are just my opinions, so I hope others jump in and add to this or correct
my misconceptions.

If you plan on building a '300, '310 or '320 (I think that is the current
group), make sure you pick up some thermal compound first.  If you don't have
any of these or have not read the instructions (and built) yet, you will not be
aware of this.  Paul is not allowed to ship this item with the kits becuase of
postal regulations.  You pick it up at Radio Shack or from most of the supply
houses.  Here are a few links I found for interesting reading.  I think most
people are buying it for their CPU cooling units.  It can be reallly depressing
to get started and not have everything you need.  Maybe this will get added to
the tools lists out there at some point.

http://www.thetechzone.com/reviews/roundup/thermal_compound/

http://www.viperlair.com/reviews/case_cool/compounds/so_nov02/therm_so.shtml

http://www.heatsink-guide.com/compound.htm

Most axial components (resistors, diodes and ferrite beads) have a lead spacing
of 0.4".  Axial ceramics have a lead spacing of 0.3".  This in NOT documented
in any of the documentation to my knowledge.  It is a pain to bend everything
and then realize the caps don't fit.  Argh!  And your handing lead bending
guide probably only goes down to 0.4" (for 1/4W resistors).  If you use the end
of the guide, it is almost 0.3", but you have to hold the cap very securely. 
Scott Jusciw's PCBs inprove on this by making all of the lead spacings
appropriate to the size of the part.  Is there and "industry standard" for
this?

If you have some MOTM kits and kits (or bare PCBs) from another manufacturer,
build all of the MOTM kits you have first.  You will learn more from Paul's
kits then all of the other kits combined.  Paul's instructions and attention to
detailed are unparalleled without insulting your intelligence.  I am surprised
that other manufacturers haven't followed suit.  But you will become
knowledgable enough to tackle other projects after several MOTM kits--this is
the primary reason I have one of my jobs now.  Thanks Paul!!!

Build the MOTM-900 first.  Follow this by the '800 and then the '380.  This
should get your confidence up to tackle other modules.  Difficulty is related
to part count more than anything else.

Number one MOTM/DIY mantra.  Take your time!  As Paul so famously says, "This
is an accuracy contest, not a speed contest."  This is much more important than
dexterity, experience or knowledge.

Tools are VERY important.  If you buy Radio Shack tools, you will build with
Radio Shack quality and wonder why everything is so difficult and why you are
having so many problems.  Number one is your soldering iron.  Weller WTCPT is
the stock MOTM iron--buy it.  You will NOT need solder since it is included in
all kits.  Next, dykes.  You only need one pair of cutters (not two as
mentioned in some of the literature).  Next, a solder sucker.  Soldapult is
excellent because of its large internal volume.  Next, chain nose pliers.  You
do not need two pairs of pliers.  Next, hollow-shaft nut drivers.  You only
need 2 of these, not a whole set.  One size works for jacks and pots, the other
for switches.  I forget the 2 sizes off the top of my head--I just look at the
color.  Next, allen wrench.  You only need 1 of these, not a whole set.  This
is for tightening the set pin on the knobs.  Again, I forget the size.  For the
allen wrench and nut drivers, make sure you get the proper British size and not
a metric equivalent.  Next, a Lead bending guide.  I probably forgot one or two
things.

I bought a Pana-vise and used it like crazy for my first 20 or so modules. 
When I started doing production soldering work, I used it less and less.  Now,
I rarely use it.  I place a piece of foam under the boards.  When the parts you
are soldering are all at the same height, this makes sure not of the are
inadvertantly popping up.  This does not work well for smaller or light boards,
nor if you don't solder with a light touch.  I suggest getting a Pana-vise.

I don't think most new people need DVMs or oscilloscopes starting out.  These
are luxury items for beginners.  And then you have to know how to use them
properly.  A meter is good for beginners to check a resisor or capacitor value.
 Some may disagree with the necessity of these items.

Finally, the item you don't think you need, but really, really do need--the
heat gun!  You are more likely to mess up your module because you don't have
one than for any other reason.  Using a lighter means a high chance of
accidently melthing the wire casing or possibly a pot casing.  Hair dryers are
not hot enough.  Budget at least $65 for this, not $50.

Keep the new builder's guide that Paul gives you with your first kit close at
hand.  There is a wealth of good information in there!

Use high-quality patch cables.  Cheap cables (like the grey ones from Radio
Shack) are bound to give you a load of problems.  Some will be apparent that it
is the cables fault, and other may seem like bad power or problems with a
module.  If you aren't sure what to get, buy cables from Larry
(http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/cable/cable.htm) when he takes orders for
the next batch.  The official cable of MOTM.  They are incredible!

There is nothing sacred about the order Paul has you insert parts onto the
boards.  Always do the water-proof parts first as stated in the documentation. 
A general DIY tip is to start with low profile parts and work your way to
higher parts.  And since MOTM kits generally do not use sockets.  You may want
to solder your static sensitive parts (primarily ICs and transistors) last
before the final board wash.  Paul makes it incredibly easy to do!  Thanks
Paul.  If you are concerned, always follow Paul's instructions exactly.  As you
get some experience, you may find that switching things around a little makes
it easier for you.  For me, I always connect wires to the board before
board-mounted pots.  I feel the pots are someone fragile and bulky, so I like
to do them after the wires, especially after the coax.

That's it for now.  I look forward to hearing other opinions and experiences.

Cheers!
Shemp

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