--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, media.nai wrote: > > While I'm on the subject of swapping resistors. Does anyone know a > good way to unsolder MOTM PCB's?? They seem to delaminate very > easily. Just removing R39 removed the foil around both pads. You > don't even want to know about the 700... In my experience, the desoldering technique Moe suggests usually works best - sacrifice the component, not the PCB. (In other words, first remove the component by clipping the leads on the component side as close to the the body of the component as you can get. After the component is gone use any number of desoldering techniques to remove what remains of the leads from the PCB.) This is especially true with ICs - the more leads on a part, the less likely it is you will get all of the solder out to free the part and this is where you start to have "accidents" ;) So better to cut the part out and remove the remaining leads one at a time. For desoldering, solder suckers and solder wick both work fine if used correctly. With the solder sucker you should be able to suck the solder and the remains of the lead out all in one operation. With solder wick, you might need to grab what remains of the component lead with some hemostats, heat up the pad, and pull the lead out - then use the solder wick to clean the remaining solder out of the pad. (With solder wick, it sometimes helps to add a little bit of solder to the pad before desoldering. Most solder wick has flux so be sure and get the no clean type if you use it.) As far as tools, the Edsyn Soldapullt is a pretty good solder sucker. (I'm pretty sure Paul recommends these!) I have tried some others (including the blue aluminum one that Radio Shack sells) that didnt work as well... Seth
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Re: desoldering stuff [was 490 resonance]
2003-04-29 by strohs56k
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