MOTM

Hello,

Thought I'd introduce some thoughts I've been thinking...

I've recently gotten back into Synths after many years away. (PAIA in 
the 70s.) It appears that there is a need for synth cabinets. I've 
been thinking of trying to do something about this. I love walnut 
(and have lots!); but I also have been thinking of some other 
woods... And formats beyond/besides the "moog" slant/flat combo. And 
incorporating the magic bus. And std. rack-mount stuff.

But, Before I tell you what I've come up with...

I'd like to hear (offlist?) from those who would be seriously 
interested in purchasing either "standard" or Custom synth 
cabinets... Tell me what you think you would want; size/ type/ 
material. Studio or Road(traveling; vinyl is okay, and I can do it, 
but who says that a traveling synth needs to be ugly?!). And most 
important; what you think is a fair price for whatever you have 
outlined. This is just some preliminary stuff, so don't get too 
excited, but my background is in Furniture (I built hi-end stuff for 
years), and more recently; I've been active in DIY CNC (with several 
thousand posts in cnc and metalworking groups). 

I have computer controlled cutting/engraving equipment for panels, 
pcb's, and wood carving for that "ultimate" synth look and feel. I 
can even put "photos" on panels and/or cabinets...

Hope this sparks some imagination, and interest,

Thank you in advance,

Ballendo

P.S. I've read some of the archive re cabinets, and would suggest 
against gorilla glue. It can be good, but is likely to fail 
spectacularly at some time in the future. I have built 
some "traditional" musical instruments, and when this stuff came out 
we all thought it was going to be the answer. Several popped 
soundboards/bridges later... (admittedly, these joints were under 
quite a bit of stress; but I'm going to stick with<G> the stuff 
that's worked for years... 

(In fairness, these foamed polyurethane glues can work really well, 
but most diy woodworkers do not control the many needed factors to 
the required degree for excellent results. Much better to use a 
more "forgiving" glue, IMO)

Also, box joints: While box joints are often cited as being 
incredibly strong due to the increased surface area for gluing and 
the long grain to long grain orientation; beware. Most every old box 
jointed item I've seen has failed joints. This includes machinist 
indicator boxes, suitcases and old crates. Usually the worst are 
those with the most "fingers", which seems to fly in the face of 
the "more surface is better" argument. What this argument fails to 
account for is the cycling of the wood and a property of wood known 
as compression-set. For more, see R Bruce Hoadley's "Understanding 
Wood" by Taunton Press (the Fine Woodworking magazine people). The 
larger fingers used (in a thread about cases I read on this list) is 
a good choice, IMO. Biscuits can be quick and work well. Dovetails 
are even better. But a small dowel inserted through the "end" fingers 
will help immensely (even though it ADDS to the problem, its 
mechanical locking prevents complete failure of the joint.)