MOTM

Drool!

The "Mini-MOTM" will be uploaded ASAP to the NEWS page.

Paul S.

-----Original Message-----
From: T.J. <goku@...>
To: motm@onelist.com <motm@onelist.com>
Date: Monday, September 13, 1999 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [motm] Cabinet ideas sought-First post!(long)


>From: "T.J." <goku@...>
>
>> I recently got two pair of 21U rack rails as I plan to move my growing
MOTM
>> in to a Moog 35 style cabinet. I'm not sure whether I'll go fine wood or
>> plywood/Tolex. This will probably take me several weeks to plan and
build,
>> but I thought I'd ask for general comments from those who have already
built
>> your own cabinets -- basic things you've learned now that you've done it,
as
>> well as a few specific questions:
>
>Hi everybody,
>  I built my synth cabinet out of "Black Walnut", and I have a few small
>pics if
>anyone is interested in viewing them. My project is more than 50% done,
>so
>it is starting to look like a real synthesizer.
> I found my wood vendor in a local flea market type mart. He had found
>an
>old walnut tree in someone's barn, and was planing on buying it if
>enough
>people wanted some. Told him what I needed, gave him the dimensions,
>and in about two weeks he had my wood ready, cut to size. Charged me
>only $50.00. Cool! Here's a pic of the awesome walnut he sold me.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Frontrow/4877/minimod2.jpg
>
>
> I wanted to build this Minimoog style and chose 3/4" plywood for the
>bottom, painted black with 45 deg. angles on the sides. The walnut shape
>is Moog Modular like, 6" deep at the top, sloping to 10" at the bottom.
>And  27-1/4" wide (same width as a Minimoog). About 28" high and
>1/2' thick throughout. A cool feature I added was a 2 1/2" valance
>panel in the front, so a keyboard placed in front of the unit would not
>block any modules.Two pieces 3" x 27-1/4" are used as dividers to hold
>the modules. For the back I used a piece of 1/4" Birch plywood I'll
>stain
>and finish in walnut.
> All of the pieces are held together with wood glue and angle brackets
>screwed in from the inside.Here a pic where you can see the brackets.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Frontrow/4877/minimod4.jpg
> (looks nice with that Moog 950 under it)
>
> To mount the modules I used 3/32" aluminum 2" x 27-1/4" strips.
>Then I bent them 90 deg. at 1/2" in to make an "L" . On the 1/2"
>surface I drilled holes where the modules would go, then placed
>"tinnerman"(sp?) clips for 6-32 screws. (Saw these on the back
>panel of a Minimoog). I purchased a 1 lb.bag of black 6-32
>screws at a surplus store for a buck. Then added black nylon
>#6 washers so the screws wouldn't scratch the panels. Also
>painted the 1/2"part black. These strips were then drilled and
>screwed into the wood. If you look close at the blank spaces
>in this pic you can see the aluminum strips.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Frontrow/4877/minimod8.jpg
> (how do you guys spell alternative controller?)
>
> OK,so I cheated and threw a Minimoog in the top, a few
>patch-points for the Mini in the center. I did leave enough
>room for 7 double width MOTM modules, and few odd sized
>custom modules.(have 5 MOTM's and growing)
> So what do you call this thing? A Mini-MOTM?
>
>http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Frontrow/4877/minimod7.jpg
>
> The cabinet seems strong enough, and the modules help reinforce
>the structure.( a back panel is critical ) As far as going on the road,
>I'll have to build or buy a flight case for that. Anyhow I hope this
>helped someone trying to do the same. Nothing looks as good as
>fine wood. And I believe an instrument should look as good as it
>sounds. My $0.02.
>
> Hope everyone that wanted to was able to download the pics.
>Someday I'll put them on a page or something.
>
>Terry
>
>Ok,one more.
>http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Frontrow/4877/minimod6.jpg
>
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