MOTM

> From: "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...>
> Paul will tell you that distributing audio signals on a buss is asking
for
> noise and crosstalk. Control voltage signals would be less sensitive -
you
> might think of distributing kbd and gate information. You still might
need
> to drive the signals with a simple op amp unity gain buffer.

To clarify a bit here, since John was talking about an idea that I
originally proposed, the bus idea was not so much bussing of any signals,
BUT rather a different format for multiples, so that they were spread
across a row below the modules instead of all on one 1U or 2U panel. 
However, Dave, you bring up a good point to consider about noise.  Do you
think the extra cable involved in spreading the multiple out some would
actually be a problem if shielded cable was used to make the connections. 
Inquiring minds seek you opinion.

> Should work fine. I plan on having an angled front cabinet that is 26
units
> wide and 10 units tall. 

I am curious what your decision process was that led you to decide 26 units
wide.  Was it the available space you have for the cabinet, number of MOTM
modules you expect to have, or ??  Spill the beans Dave.

Like Dave, I was thinking about 21 units because that same width would also
accommodate 2 19" standard rack units side-by-side if one wanted to include
some of that in their system -- either in the same case by going say 12
units high, or in a separate case with the same width.

> The middle will be supported by 2 L shaped rails
> fastened together either to form a T or a U (T is easier but I'm not sure
if
> the hole spacing between the 2 rows will allow for it). L brackets on the
> end is what I was going to use, but not the flimsy ones you buy at the
> hardware store. And avoid bolting them through from the outside - you
don't
> want a bolt head messing up that beautiful piece of hardwood you paid
dearly
> for, now do you?

OK, if you us "L" brackets (commonly sold as "corner braces" I believe),
bolting from the outside is stronger than screws from the inside.  How
about bolts with wood plugs?  Or bolts, recessed and covered with nice
matching wood filler for appearance?
 
> BTW, folks should avoid aluminum for the rails - it's too soft to tap
good
> sharp threads into, and won't last if you move your modules around much.
Use
> iron or steel.

Great advice Dave.  Threads and aluminum don't work well together (not fine
threads anyhow).  However, aluminum should be OK for channel or other
bracing.

Larry H