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Thread
2009-06-06 by a1ncsky2
I'm using some older CM equipment that I'm increasingly dissatisfied with. My monitor is a Dell LCD and main printer is an Epson 2200. I have been looking at the Spyder3Studio. It seems reasonably priced all considered. Can anyone give me some encouragement/discouragement about buying this setup? Thanks in advance for any advice or comments. Pat
2009-06-06 by John Vitollo
--- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > > I'm using some older CM equipment that I'm increasingly dissatisfied with. My monitor is a Dell LCD and main printer is an Epson 2200. > > I have been looking at the Spyder3Studio. It seems reasonably priced all considered. Can anyone give me some encouragement/discouragement about buying this setup? In this price range the only other alternative is the X-Rite ColorMunki. On the printer profile side of things the ColorMuki can not compete with DataVision's PrintFixPro. PrintFixPro produces much better printer profiles. Checkout Keith's review of the colormunki: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/profiling/colormunki.html Basically the ColorMunki is hobbled for printer profiling as X-Rite does not want it to compete with it's big brother, the Eye-One that sells for over $1200.00 PrintFixPro can produce profiles just as good as the Eye-One.
2009-06-06 by Sat Tara S. Khalsa
I'm using some older CM equipment that I'm increasingly dissatisfied with. My monitor is a Dell LCD and main printer is an Epson 2200.
I have been looking at the Spyder3Studio. It seems reasonably priced all considered. Can anyone give me some encouragement/discouragement about buying this setup?
Thanks in advance for any advice or comments.
Pat
2009-06-06 by Christoph Fischer
it took me a couple of months and tons of ink and paper for correcting the printer profiles for the Epson 2100 (=2200) with oem inks on matte papers. there was a difficult green-yellow cast. (the datacolor support in switzerland was not able help. (however very kind people. they took a lot of time examining the problem, directly at my printer). it is still not possible to print pure blue, it goes purple; i think in "Spyder 3 Print vs. Other Choices". Some profiles of the paper manufacturers DO print blue. spyder elite: i like the many choices of advanced mode. however you cannot correct the profile afterwards. you need some patience for recalibrating. it to seems to work well with my Quato Radon screen. It was not possible to gray balance an older samsung CRT. (strong green cast). good luck. christoph
2009-06-07 by Cdtobie
There must be some specific issue with your 2100/2200; back in the day when those were common printers we had several of them, and had no difficulty profiling them. C. D. Tobie Global Product Technology Mngr. Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor.com CDTobie@...
On Jun 6, 2009, at 6:22 PM, "Christoph Fischer" <tarqeq@...> wrote: > it took me a couple of months and tons of ink and paper for correcting > the printer profiles for the Epson 2100 (=2200) with oem inks on matte > papers. there was a difficult green-yellow cast. (the datacolor > support > in switzerland was not able help. (however very kind people. they > took a > lot of time examining the problem, directly at my printer). > it is still not possible to print pure blue, it goes purple; i think > in > "Spyder 3 Print vs. Other Choices". Some profiles of the paper > manufacturers DO print blue. > spyder elite: i like the many choices of advanced mode. however you > cannot correct the profile afterwards. > you need some patience for recalibrating. > it to seems to work well with my Quato Radon screen. > It was not possible to gray balance an older samsung CRT. (strong > green cast). > good luck. christoph > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
2009-06-07 by Will Clark
Pleasant experiences here with Spyder3print and Spyder3elite for the Epson R800, 2200 and R2400 running with WinXp, an H-P 2207 monitor and PSCS 4. Tech support is good from Datacolor. The software is straightforward and the "Help" (instruction) files are thorough and explicit. Using Spyder profiles, I'm especially pleased with B/W printing on the 2200 (matte papers) and the 2400 (glossy papers) with OEM inks. Thumbs up! Will Clark
2009-06-08 by christoph fischer
i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray gradient. printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. cyan cast). i thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these profiles are printing real blue! thanks for help or, at least, explanation... christoph
2009-06-08 by CDTobie
Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or what you are referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and quotes, if they reference something), so that we can get over the language issue, and into the technical issue.i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray gradient. printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. cyan cast). i thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these profiles are printing real blue! thanks for help or, at least, explanation...
i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray gradient.
printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. cyan cast). i
thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it?
however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford
permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these profiles
are printing real blue!
thanks for help or, at least, explanation...
christoph
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2009-06-08 by Bob Geoghegan
Hi all, Can the original Spyder be used for monitor calibration on a Vista 64 bit PC with a ViewSonic VP2250wb monitor? I'm sure there are all sorts of reasons why the current hardware & software are better but is this old Spyder + new computer combination even possible? I'm assuming OptiCAL 3.7.8 is the software to use. This would be a temporary setup for a month or 2 before upgrading. Apologies if this has been addressed but I couldn't find it in the archives. Thanks, Bob G
2009-06-08 by CDTobie
Can the original Spyder be used for monitor calibration on a Vista 64 bit PC with a ViewSonic VP2250wb monitor? I’m sure there are all sorts of reasons why the current hardware & software are better but is this old Spyder + new computer combination even possible? I’m assuming OptiCAL 3.7.8 is the software to use. This would be a temporary setup for a month or 2 before upgrading. 64 bit was addressed in a late update to Spyder2; development for the original Spyder had ceased years before that. So there is no 64 bit version of any Spyder1 software. C. David Tobie WW Product Technology Manager Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor CDTobie@... www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 www.colorvision.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Geoghegan <bob.geo@...>
To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 3:21 pm
Subject: [datacolor_group] Original Spyder on Vista 64
Hi all,
Can the original Spyder be used for monitor calibration on a
Vista 64 bit PC with a ViewSonic VP2250wb monitor? I’m sure there
are all sorts of reasons why the current hardware & software are better but
is this old Spyder + new computer combination even possible? I’m
assuming OptiCAL 3.7.8 is the software to use. This would be a temporary
setup for a month or 2 before upgrading.
Apologies if this has b
een addressed but I couldn’t find
it in the archives. Thanks,
Bob G2009-06-08 by Bob Geoghegan
Thanks for saving me the frustration of trying to make it work. That puts a Spyder3 is on the shopping list pretty soon. Bob
From: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of CDTobie Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 4:23 PM To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [datacolor_group] Original Spyder on Vista 64 Can the original Spyder be used for monitor calibration on a Vista 64 bit PC with a ViewSonic VP2250wb monitor? I’m sure there are all sorts of reasons why the current hardware & software are better but is this old Spyder + new computer combination even possible? I’m assuming OptiCAL 3.7.8 is the software to use. This would be a temporary setup for a month or 2 before upgrading. 64 bit was addressed in a late update to Spyder2; development for the original Spyder had ceased years before that. So there is no 64 bit version of any Spyder1 software. C. David Tobie WW Product Technology Manager Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor CDTobie@datacolor.com www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 www.colorvision.com _
2009-06-09 by christoph fischer
ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer (epson2100) produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green-yellow cast and blue becomes purple (also see message 3386). i understand how the application is working, i understand the manual etc. the swiss supporters examined my printer and the spyder device which seemed to functioning correctly. we discussed the problem and questions of drivers and settings (photoshop manages colors, no color adjustment by the driver etc), however there was no solution. - i've tried a lot of different driver settings as well as the gimp print driver. the color cast is clearly visible in every case. The epson support said there might be a problem with the datacolor software or device; the swiss datacolor support said, there might be a problem with the epson 2100... i hope to find some better answers here. - as we know, x-rite products allow this printer to print blue color. how is it possible to achieve it with spyderprint? thanks for your help. christoph --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, CDTobie <CDTobie@...> wrote:
> > > Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or what you are referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and quotes, if they reference something), so that we can get over the language issue, and into the technical issue. > > > C. David Tobie > WW Product Technology Manager > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor > CDTobie@... > www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 > > www.colorvision.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> > To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:31 am > Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > > i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray gradient. > printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. cyan cast). i > thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? > > however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford > permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these profiles > are printing real blue! > thanks for help or, at least, explanation... > > christoph > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links >
2009-06-09 by CDTobie
It appears you are saying canned profiles for this printer do not produce neutral prints? If not, it may be an unsolvable issue... If X-Rite tools can magically fix it and Datacolor ones cannot (and this happens once in a while in one direction, once in a while in the other) then you may be obliged to choose your profiling tools accordingly. If neither one will produce neutral prints, you'll probably need to accept that the printer is not going to print acceptable color, and at your options for a newer printer.ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer (epson2100) produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green-yellow cast
ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer (epson2100) produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green-yellow cast and blue becomes purple (also see message 3386). i understand how the application is working, i understand the manual etc. the swiss supporters examined my printer and the spyder device which seemed to functioning correctly. we discussed the problem and questions of drivers and settings (photoshop manages colors, no color adjustment by the driver etc), however there was no solution. - i've tried a lot of different driver settings as well as the gimp print driver. the color cast is clearly visible in every case. The epson support said there might be a problem with the datacolor software or device; the swiss datacolor support said, there might be a problem with the epson 2100... i hope to find some better answers here. - as we know, x-rite products allow this printer to print blue color. how is it possible to achieve it with spyderprint? thanks for your help. christoph --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, CDTobie wrote: > > > Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or what you are referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and quotes, if they reference something), so that we can get over the language issue, and into the technical issue. > > > C. David Tobie > WW Product Technology Manager > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor > CDTobie@... > www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 > > www.colorvision.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: christoph fischer > To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:31 am > Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > > i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray gradient. > printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. cyan cast). i > thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? > > however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford > permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these profiles > are printing real blue! > thanks for help or, at least, explanation... > > christoph > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:datacolor_group-digest@yahoogroups.com mailto:datacolor_group-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: datacolor_group-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
2009-06-09 by CDTobie
Thanks for saving me the frustration of trying to make it work. That puts a Spyder3 is on the shopping list pretty soon. Just keep in mind that the advanced tools that you are used to from OptiCAL, moved forward to Spyder2PRO, and from there to Spyder3Elite; you may not be happy with the simpler options and lack of tools in Spyder3Pro, which is the midrange product. C. David Tobie Global Product Technology Manager Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor CDTobie@... www.datacolor.com/Spyder3
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Geoghegan <bob.geo@...>
To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 6:25 pm
Subject: RE: [datacolor_group] Original Spyder on Vista 64
Thanks for saving me the frustration of trying to make it work.
That puts a Spyder3 is on the shopping list pretty soon.
Bob
From:
datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CDTobie
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 4:23 PM
To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [datacolor_group] Original Spyder on Vista 64
Can the original Spyder be used for monitor calibration on a
Vista 64 bit PC with a ViewSonic VP2250wb monitor? I’m sure there are all
sorts of reasons why the current hardware & software are better but is this
old Spy
der + new computer combination even possible? I’m assuming OptiCAL
3.7.8 is the software to use. This would be a temporary setup for a month
or 2 before upgrading.
64 bit was addressed in a late
update to Spyder2; development for the original Spyder had ceased years before
that. So there is no 64 bit version of any Spyder1 software.
C. David Tobie
WW Product Technology Manager
Digital Imaging & Home Theater
Datacolor
CDTobie@...
www.datacolor.com/Spyder3
www.colorvision.com
_2009-06-09 by Bob Geoghegan
Thanks, CDT. The Elite does seem like the best option. Bob
From: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of CDTobie Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 12:31 PM To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [datacolor_group] Original Spyder on Vista 64 Thanks for saving me the frustration of trying to make it work. That puts a Spyder3 is on the shopping list pretty soon. Just keep in mind that the advanced tools that you are used to from OptiCAL, moved forward to Spyder2PRO, and from there to Spyder3Elite; you may not be happy with the simpler options and lack of tools in Spyder3Pro, which is the midrange product. C. David Tobie Global Product Technology Manager Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor CDTobie@... www.datacolor.com/Spyder3
2009-06-09 by Christoph Fischer
thanks. i'll try to go on with the spyder. some canned profiles print quite neutral, i.e. the result is satisfying. some corrected spyder profiles work well in some cases. i'll have the choice. if i'll be very rich one day, i'll buy an x-rite... eventually christoph ---original message--- CDTobie / CDTobie@... Tue, 9 Jun 2009 12:18:41 -0400 / Re: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio
> >>ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >>(epson2100) >>produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >>yellow cast >> >It appears you are saying canned profiles for this printer do not >produce neutral prints? If not, it may be an unsolvable issue... If X- >Rite tools can magically fix it and Datacolor ones cannot (and this >happens once in a while in one direction, once in a while in the other) >then you may be obliged to choose your profiling tools accordingly. If >neither one will produce neutral prints, you'll probably need to accept >that the printer is not going to print acceptable color, and at your >options for a newer printer. > > >C. David Tobie >Global Product Technology Manager >Digital Imaging & Home Theater >Datacolor >CDTobie@... >www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 8:41 pm >Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >(epson2100) >produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >yellow cast >and blue becomes purple (also see message 3386). i understand how the >application is working, i understand the manual etc. the swiss supporters >examined my printer and the spyder device which seemed to functioning >correctly. >we discussed the problem and questions of drivers and settings (photoshop >manages colors, no >color adjustment by the driver etc), however there was no solution. > >- i've tried a lot of different driver settings as well as the gimp print >driver. the color cast is clearly visible in every case. The epson >support said >there might be a problem with the datacolor software or device; the swiss >datacolor support said, there might be a problem with the epson 2100... > i hope to find some better answers here. > >- as we know, x-rite products allow this printer to print blue color. >how is it >possible to achieve it with spyderprint? >thanks for your help. >christoph > > >--- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, CDTobie <CDTobie@...> wrote: >> >> >> Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or what >you are >referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and >quotes, if >they reference something), so that we can get over the language issue, >and into >the technical issue. >> >> >> C. David Tobie >> WW Product Technology Manager >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater >> Datacolor >> CDTobie@... >> www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 >> >> www.colorvision.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >> To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:31 am >> Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >> >> i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray >gradient. >> printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. >cyan cast). >i >> thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? >> >> however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford >> permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these >profiles >> are printing real blue! >> thanks for help or, at least, explanation... >> >> christoph
2009-06-10 by Cdtobie
What puzzles me is that, if your printer isn't out of whack, you should get results from the Datacolor tools that rival that of the xrite products... C. D. Tobie Global Product Technology Mngr. Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor.com CDTobie@...
On Jun 9, 2009, at 6:33 PM, "Christoph Fischer" <tarqeq@...> wrote: > thanks. i'll try to go on with the spyder. > some canned profiles print quite neutral, i.e. the result is > satisfying. some corrected spyder profiles work well in some cases. > i'll > have the choice. > if i'll be very rich one day, i'll buy an x-rite... eventually > christoph > > ---original message--- > CDTobie / CDTobie@... > Tue, 9 Jun 2009 12:18:41 -0400 / Re: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice > about > Spyder3Studio > > >> >>> ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >>> (epson2100) >>> produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >>> yellow cast >>> >> It appears you are saying canned profiles for this printer do not >> produce neutral prints? If not, it may be an unsolvable issue... If >> X- >> Rite tools can magically fix it and Datacolor ones cannot (and this >> happens once in a while in one direction, once in a while in the >> other) >> then you may be obliged to choose your profiling tools accordingly. >> If >> neither one will produce neutral prints, you'll probably need to >> accept >> that the printer is not going to print acceptable color, and at your >> options for a newer printer. >> >> >> C. David Tobie >> Global Product Technology Manager >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater >> Datacolor >> CDTobie@... >> www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >> To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 8:41 pm >> Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio >> >> ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >> (epson2100) >> produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >> yellow cast >> and blue becomes purple (also see message 3386). i understand how the >> application is working, i understand the manual etc. the swiss >> supporters >> examined my printer and the spyder device which seemed to functioning >> correctly. >> we discussed the problem and questions of drivers and settings >> (photoshop >> manages colors, no >> color adjustment by the driver etc), however there was no solution. >> >> - i've tried a lot of different driver settings as well as the gimp >> print >> driver. the color cast is clearly visible in every case. The epson >> support said >> there might be a problem with the datacolor software or device; the >> swiss >> datacolor support said, there might be a problem with the epson >> 2100... >> i hope to find some better answers here. >> >> - as we know, x-rite products allow this printer to print blue color. >> how is it >> possible to achieve it with spyderprint? >> thanks for your help. >> christoph >> >> >> --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, CDTobie <CDTobie@...> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or >>> what >> you are >> referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and >> quotes, if >> they reference something), so that we can get over the language >> issue, >> and into >> the technical issue. >>> >>> >>> C. David Tobie >>> WW Product Technology Manager >>> Digital Imaging & Home Theater >>> Datacolor >>> CDTobie@... >>> www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 >>> >>> www.colorvision.com >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >>> To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >>> Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:31 am >>> Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio >> >>> >>> i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral >>> gray >> gradient. >>> printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. >> cyan cast). >> i >>> thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? >>> >>> however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. >>> from ilford >>> permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover >>> these >> profiles >>> are printing real blue! >>> thanks for help or, at least, explanation... >>> >>> christoph > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
2009-06-10 by Bob and Carol Schoner
Hi, I have both the Spyder Print and the X-Rite Eye-One Pro. I use them to profile an Epson R1800 with Ink Republic CIS inks. Both instruments are very comparable to each other in terms of the resulting profiles. The Eye One is a bit easier to use because it can scan but the Spyder software is better (IMO) because of its flexibility in modifying the profiles. From my experience I don't understand Eye One working and the Spyder not, or the other way around. I did not see from your posts whether or not your 2100 produces a cast with Epson paper and ink. If it does, then something is wrong with the printer (like a clogged nozzle.) Blues printing as purple can occur when the blue in the image is outside of the printer's gamut. Does the blue-to-purple shift show up when soft-proofing in PhotoShop? If yes, then the image colors may be outside the gamut. Do you print with the Saturation intent as recommended by DataColor? Again, in my experience both Spyder and Eye One produce profiles with comparable gamut volumes. Have you tried eliminating the color cast by adjusting the sliders in the Spyder Print software? I have been able to get very neutral black and white prints for the Epson 1800 by adjusting the sliders; note that the 1800 is not known as quality B&W printer because it has only one black ink. I cropped the gray scale from one of the test images, printed the scale, measured the neutrality with the Spyder, adjusted the sliders and printed/measured until I achieved a neutral B&W gray scale. Doing it this way I could get 8-12 tests on a single sheet of paper. Good Luck, Bob Schoner
-----Original Message----- From: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Christoph Fischer Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 3:33 PM To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re(2): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio thanks. i'll try to go on with the spyder. some canned profiles print quite neutral, i.e. the result is satisfying. some corrected spyder profiles work well in some cases. i'll have the choice. if i'll be very rich one day, i'll buy an x-rite... eventually christoph ---original message--- CDTobie / CDTobie@... Tue, 9 Jun 2009 12:18:41 -0400 / Re: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >>ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >>(epson2100) >>produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >>yellow cast >> >It appears you are saying canned profiles for this printer do not >produce neutral prints? If not, it may be an unsolvable issue... If X- >Rite tools can magically fix it and Datacolor ones cannot (and this >happens once in a while in one direction, once in a while in the other) >then you may be obliged to choose your profiling tools accordingly. If >neither one will produce neutral prints, you'll probably need to accept >that the printer is not going to print acceptable color, and at your >options for a newer printer. > > >C. David Tobie >Global Product Technology Manager >Digital Imaging & Home Theater >Datacolor >CDTobie@... >www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 8:41 pm >Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >ok. i repeat, what i've written in my very recent posts: my printer >(epson2100) >produces a cyan-green color cast . spyderprint turns it in a green- >yellow cast >and blue becomes purple (also see message 3386). i understand how the >application is working, i understand the manual etc. the swiss supporters >examined my printer and the spyder device which seemed to functioning >correctly. >we discussed the problem and questions of drivers and settings (photoshop >manages colors, no >color adjustment by the driver etc), however there was no solution. > >- i've tried a lot of different driver settings as well as the gimp print >driver. the color cast is clearly visible in every case. The epson >support said >there might be a problem with the datacolor software or device; the swiss >datacolor support said, there might be a problem with the epson 2100... > i hope to find some better answers here. > >- as we know, x-rite products allow this printer to print blue color. >how is it >possible to achieve it with spyderprint? >thanks for your help. >christoph > > >--- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, CDTobie <CDTobie@...> wrote: >> >> >> Sorry, can't tell what you are saying, or what you are asking, or what >you are >referring to. Please write complete sentences with clear content (and >quotes, if >they reference something), so that we can get over the language issue, >and into >the technical issue. >> >> >> C. David Tobie >> WW Product Technology Manager >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater >> Datacolor >> CDTobie@... >> www.datacolor.com/Spyder3 >> >> www.colorvision.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: christoph fischer <tarqeq@...> >> To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:31 am >> Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >> >> i hardly can believe, that it should be possible to get a neutral gray >gradient. >> printing a target without profile yet produces a strong green (ev. >cyan cast). >i >> thought, this is normal with this printer, isn't it? >> >> however there are several standard profiles working well. e.g. from ilford >> permajet, (including an custom profile made by permajet. Moreover these >profiles >> are printing real blue! >> thanks for help or, at least, explanation... >> >> christoph ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
2009-06-10 by Christoph Fischer
thanks a lot for your advices Bob and C.D. Tobie! please go on reading below ---original message--- Cdtobie Tue, 9 Jun 2009 20:20:32 -0400 / Re: Re(2): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio >What puzzles me is that, if your printer isn't out of whack, you >should get results from the Datacolor tools that rival that of the >xrite products...after my corrections, I'd like to believe. indeed, some results are good. as i said, after many many trials with the sliders i only work with matte paper now, whereas museo portfolio seems do be more difficult to profile than others. however the kind of correction is always the same: i have to boost blue (slider value 10-15), and magenta (5) (and slightly change some other silders) ---original message--- Bob and Carol Schoner Tue, 9 Jun 2009 20:23:23 -0700 / RE: Re(2): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio >I have both the Spyder Print and the X-Rite Eye-One Pro.( .......) From my >experience I don't understand Eye One working and the Spyder not, or the >other way around. thanks, this is interesting . i don't understand neither.... i must correct to profiles with the sliders. see above. > >I did not see from your posts whether or not your 2100 produces a cast with >Epson paper and ink. epson archival matte (too epson semigloss) works well with its standard profiles. if there is a very slight color cast, it's toward magenta (about the inverse of the unprofiled printer standard). these profiles belong to the most neutral ones. but with matte paper there is very little saturation for dark colors. before i was using spyder . i employed canned permajet and ilford profiles. they were good (but not perfect), some hahnemühle profiles worked nearly well. >If it does, then something is wrong with the printer >(like a clogged nozzle.) nozzle are ok. i tested often... the print quality is very stable. (unlike that one of the r1800) beware: the nozzle check is another problem, everybody who's interested in nozzles should read the message 95695 in the DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint group. >Blues printing as purple can occur when the blue in >the image is outside of the printer's gamut. Does the blue-to-purple shift >show up when soft-proofing in PhotoShop? If yes, then the image colors may >be outside the gamut. yes with all of the spyderprint profiles. hardly with some others. not at all with the museo max profile. by the way there is a very easy test. in photoshop you create a blue gradient, then study various soft proofs... first, i thought, this is only theory, until i had to print some blue photos. >Do you print with the Saturation intent as recommended >by DataColor? (...) yes. and i usually try the other intents too. >Have you tried eliminating the color cast by adjusting the sliders in the >Spyder Print software? yes, see above >I have been able to get very neutral black and white >prints for the Epson 1800 by adjusting the sliders; note that the 1800 is >not known as quality B&W printer because it has only one black ink. I >cropped the gray scale from one of the test images, printed the scale, >measured the neutrality with the Spyder, adjusted the sliders and >printed/measured until I achieved a neutral B&W gray scale. Doing it this >way I could get 8-12 tests on a single sheet of paper. i did a lot of this test with the 21step wedges from QTR, uses little space (25 tests on a A4 paper) what you write about the r1800 is amazing. i have the same printer too. as it lays down far too much ink on every kind of paper, i gave up profiling. how do you deal with this issue? do you ev. use the epson driver color adjustment sliders? usually i use "no Color adjustment" christoph ---original message--- Cdtobie / CDTobie@... Tue, 9 Jun 2009 20:20:32 -0400 / Re: Re(2): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio
>What puzzles me is that, if your printer isn't out of whack, you >should get results from the Datacolor tools that rival that of the >xrite products... > >C. D. Tobie >Global Product Technology Mngr. >Digital Imaging & Home Theater >Datacolor.com >CDTobie@... > >On Jun 9, 2009, at 6:33 PM, "Christoph Fischer" <tarqeq@...> wrote: > >> thanks. i'll try to go on with the spyder. >> some canned profiles print quite neutral, i.e. the result is >> satisfying. some corrected spyder profiles work well in some cases. >> i'll >> have the choice. >> if i'll be very rich one day, i'll buy an x-rite... eventually >> christoph >>
2009-06-10 by Bob and Carol Schoner
-----Original Message-----
From: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Christoph Fischer Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 1:20 PM To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re(4): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio thanks a lot for your advices Bob and C.D. Tobie! please go on reading below Hi, I did a Google search for "Color Cast Epson 2100 Printer"; it seems you are not alone: http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/400/kb400878.html http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t10377.html and several others. You wrote: "i did a lot of this test with the 21step wedges from QTR, uses little space (25 tests on a A4 paper) what you write about the r1800 is amazing. i have the same printer too. as it lays down far too much ink on every kind of paper, i gave up profiling. how do you deal with this issue? do you ev. use the epson driver color adjustment sliders? usually i use "no Color adjustment" " I do not have a problem with the R1800 laying down too much ink. I use the "No Color Adjustment" ICM--OFF. Any color or saturation adjustments are done in PhotoShop before sending the image to print. Bob Schoner
2009-06-10 by Christoph Fischer
thanks. i know already the kind of messages in these links. however this is not my problem. i know this kind of color casts . mine were not so strong, but still irritating. r1800: which OS/ driver do you use? christoph ---original message--- Bob and Carol Schoner / rschoner@... Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:06:03 -0700 / RE: Re(4): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio
> >http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/400/kb400878.html > >http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t10377.html > >and several others. > >I do not have a problem with the R1800 laying down too much ink. I use the >"No Color Adjustment" ICM--OFF. Any color or saturation adjustments are done >in PhotoShop before sending the image to print. > >Bob Schoner
2009-06-11 by Bob and Carol Schoner
Hi, OS: Windows XP Home Service Pack 3 Printer Driver: 6.52 (I think that's the latest) I print through QImage. It makes it easy to keep profiles and printing settings correct. Bob Schoner
-----Original Message----- From: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Christoph Fischer Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 3:53 PM To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com Subject: [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio thanks. i know already the kind of messages in these links. however this is not my problem. i know this kind of color casts . mine were not so strong, but still irritating. r1800: which OS/ driver do you use? christoph ---original message--- Bob and Carol Schoner / rschoner@... Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:06:03 -0700 / RE: Re(4): [datacolor_group] Re: Advice about Spyder3Studio > >http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/400/kb400878.html > >http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t10377.html > >and several others. > >I do not have a problem with the R1800 laying down too much ink. I use the >"No Color Adjustment" ICM--OFF. Any color or saturation adjustments are done >in PhotoShop before sending the image to print. > >Bob Schoner ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
2009-06-20 by a1ncsky2
Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's just fine. I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time and describe my results for your reading pleasure. I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. Thanks again and I'll let you know, Pat
2009-06-20 by Cdtobie
Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. C. D. Tobie Global Product Technology Mngr. Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor.com CDTobie@...
On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my > original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's > just fine. > > I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the > way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct > which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive > shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. > Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. > > I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time > and describe my results for your reading pleasure. > > I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot > tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a > number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan > 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints > I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. > > I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. > > Thanks again and I'll let you know, > Pat > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
2009-06-21 by a1ncsky2
Thanks for the input. This afternoon I just installed the Spyder3Elite - haven't installed the Print software yet. Preliminarily, after profiling my desktop monitor I'm liking what I see. Gray looks really gray, and mid gray looks to be mid gray. Before, with the Spyder2 Express, which was a vast improvement over no calibration, most things still had a slightly warm tone if you looked close. Not so now. I checked the software update menu item on the Spyder3Elite dialog box and I'm told I have v3.0.4 and it is up to date so presumably I'm good there. I'll check the Spyder Print when I install it. You mention checking before I install, but should I maybe install and then check for updates.......? Or should I just ignore the CD and download software from the website and install that? Anyway, real happy so far with the monitor calibration. Looking forward to see how well the prints match. After all, that's the name of the game - no? Happy so far. Thanks for the comment on the new software. Pat --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie <CDTobie@...> wrote:
> > Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print > 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. > > C. D. Tobie > Global Product Technology Mngr. > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor.com > CDTobie@... > > On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > > > Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my > > original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's > > just fine. > > > > I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the > > way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct > > which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive > > shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. > > Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. > > > > I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time > > and describe my results for your reading pleasure. > > > > I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot > > tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a > > number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan > > 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints > > I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. > > > > I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. > > > > Thanks again and I'll let you know, > > Pat > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
2009-06-21 by a1ncsky2
I went online to Datacolor and have downloaded the Spyder3Print v3.5PB2 software. Should I install that instead of the CD version, or install the CD and then update from there? Thanks, Pat --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie <CDTobie@...> wrote:
> > Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print > 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. > > C. D. Tobie > Global Product Technology Mngr. > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor.com > CDTobie@... > > On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > > > Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my > > original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's > > just fine. > > > > I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the > > way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct > > which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive > > shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. > > Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. > > > > I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time > > and describe my results for your reading pleasure. > > > > I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot > > tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a > > number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan > > 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints > > I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. > > > > I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. > > > > Thanks again and I'll let you know, > > Pat > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
2009-06-21 by Cdtobie
No need to install the CD version, just install the version from the website, and serialize with the number from the CD envelope. C. D. Tobie Global Product Technology Mngr. Digital Imaging & Home Theater Datacolor.com CDTobie@...
On Jun 20, 2009, at 9:22 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > I went online to Datacolor and have downloaded the Spyder3Print > v3.5PB2 software. Should I install that instead of the CD version, > or install the CD and then update from there? > > Thanks, > Pat > > --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie <CDTobie@...> wrote: >> >> Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print >> 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. >> >> C. D. Tobie >> Global Product Technology Mngr. >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater >> Datacolor.com >> CDTobie@... >> >> On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: >> >>> Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my >>> original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's >>> just fine. >>> >>> I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the >>> way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct >>> which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive >>> shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. >>> Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. >>> >>> I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time >>> and describe my results for your reading pleasure. >>> >>> I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot >>> tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a >>> number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan >>> 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints >>> I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. >>> >>> I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. >>> >>> Thanks again and I'll let you know, >>> Pat >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------------ >>> >>> Yahoo! Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >> > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
2009-06-22 by a1ncsky2
OK, I installed the PB version of Spyder3 Print and, finally, profiled the Epson Velvet Fine Art paper. A bit more comment about the "finally" below. Results - outstanding! By that I mean the print is about as close as you could hope for between hard copy and the monitor. My monitor, as I mentioned a day or so ago, I profiled with the Spyder3 Elite. Really, the system works, at least with this (difficult in the past) paper, just great. On the "finally" part what I can offer is just patch measuring learnings by a newbie with the Spectro. First, after I screwed up 2 or three patch measurement series, and the profiles that went with them, I started to pay attention. Always a last resort - I know. A few observations for those just starting with the equipment. 1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a good one. It just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch to patch. 2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at least first thought. 3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the supplied "Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced users don't need it - or maybe they just say they don't?. When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and only need to pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within the row. I finally got the patch to patch alignment right by looking at the "snout" on the paper and after moving it past the nearest white divider between patches then moving it back slightly in past the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more. In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch with the snout and then move back in slightly just past the white divider. It's easy to see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit return as is your preference. I find clicking the Spectro is easier for me. 3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you will get only one audio "click" from the computer, rather than two. I don't know why. In that case with the arrow keys I move the red triangle back and "reshoot" that patch. Maybe unnecessary but who want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and then. 4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the patches during measurement. After coming upon the system described in (2) above I find looking at the measured patches, not the split, and after finishing each row comparing it to the hard copy being measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On occasion, maybe 3 or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your best efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience it's easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that at the end of the whole thing looking at the whole array of patches. 5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little or no attention to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it won't be exactly the same. It's just that if the comparison shows a nonsense measurement you can see it. I think a nonsense read is because of slopping over onto the white divider between patches - but who knows? Happy as a clam so far with the Spyder3 Studio. My next step is to redo the Epson Premium Luster profile I did. Did that yesterday in hurry just after installation. The print was ok - acceptable - compared to the display. But this was before I had major issues with my first attempts with the Velvet Fine Art today, then started paying attention with the patch measurements, etc. I'm sure when I redo the profile for the Premium Luster it'll be even better. It may sound like my little newbie patch reading system is too much but it probably takes maybe 30% more time than doing a sloppy job - which with color profiling is a job not worth doing - no? Moving right along and happy with the new equipment. And I thought the Spyder2Express was good. It was, but little did I know. Pat
2009-06-22 by chriscalvert@paradise.net.nz
There does seem to be a lot of difficulty in scanning the printed sheets. I wonder if a lot of this might go away if the print is made slightly larger so
2009-06-22 by capesamblue
Isn't this software "update" you are recommending a Beta version? Hasn't it been a Beta version for a very long time now? I'm normally reluctant to install a beta versions of software because it implies to me that the developers aren't quite sure whether its right yet, although it is tempting given the reported increase in speed for the print profiler. Grateful for your views on why it isn't yet a version recognised as a true update by the software updater. --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie <CDTobie@...> wrote:
> > No need to install the CD version, just install the version from the > website, and serialize with the number from the CD envelope. > > C. D. Tobie > Global Product Technology Mngr. > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor.com > CDTobie@... > > On Jun 20, 2009, at 9:22 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@...> wrote: > > > I went online to Datacolor and have downloaded the Spyder3Print > > v3.5PB2 software. Should I install that instead of the CD version, > > or install the CD and then update from there? > > > > Thanks, > > Pat > > > > --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie <CDTobie@> wrote: > >> > >> Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print > >> 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. > >> > >> C. D. Tobie > >> Global Product Technology Mngr. > >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater > >> Datacolor.com > >> CDTobie@ > >> > >> On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" <mcguipe@> wrote: > >> > >>> Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my > >>> original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's > >>> just fine. > >>> > >>> I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the > >>> way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct > >>> which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive > >>> shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. > >>> Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. > >>> > >>> I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time > >>> and describe my results for your reading pleasure. > >>> > >>> I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot > >>> tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a > >>> number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan > >>> 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints > >>> I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. > >>> > >>> I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. > >>> > >>> Thanks again and I'll let you know, > >>> Pat > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> ------------------------------------ > >>> > >>> Yahoo! Groups Links > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
2009-06-22 by CDTobie
Don't let the Public Beta title concern you; its a beta only in the sense that it was never finalized onto CDs, its as final as any software version we have ever posted to the website.Isn't this software "update" you are recommending a Beta version? Hasn't it been a Beta version for a very long time now? I'm normally reluctant to install a beta versions of software because it implies to me that the developers aren't quite sure whether its right yet, although it is tempting given the reported increase in speed for the print profiler.
Isn't this software "update" you are recommending a Beta version? Hasn't it been a Beta version for a very long time now? I'm normally reluctant to install a beta versions of software because it implies to me that the developers aren't quite sure whether its right yet, although it is tempting given the reported increase in speed for the print profiler. Grateful for your views on why it isn't yet a version recognised as a true update by the software updater. --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie wrote: > > No need to install the CD version, just install the version from the > website, and serialize with the number from the CD envelope. > > C. D. Tobie > Global Product Technology Mngr. > Digital Imaging & Home Theater > Datacolor.com > CDTobie@... > > On Jun 20, 2009, at 9:22 PM, "a1ncsky2" wrote: > > > I went online to Datacolor and have downloaded the Spyder3Print > > v3.5PB2 software. Should I install that instead of the CD version, > > or install the CD and then update from there? > > > > Thanks, > > Pat > > > > --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, Cdtobie wrote: > >> > >> Be sure to download the latest version of S3Elite, and the S3Print > >> 3.5PB before installing and using your new products. > >> > >> C. D. Tobie > >> Global Product Technology Mngr. > >> Digital Imaging & Home Theater > >> Datacolor.com > >> CDTobie@ > >> > >> On Jun 19, 2009, at 10:15 PM, "a1ncsky2" wrote: > >> > >>> Thanks, somewhat delayed, for the comments and advice replying to my > >>> original note. The thread kind of took off on it's own but that's > >>> just fine. > >>> > >>> I went ahead and got the Spyder3Studio. It came yesterday. By the > >>> way, I ordered it online from an outfit called Calibration Direct > >>> which had a substantially lower price than most - inexpensive > >>> shipping. Outstanding service, got it about 3 days after the order. > >>> Got a completely sealed up no nonsense brand new product. > >>> > >>> I'll get everything up and running in a few days when I can get time > >>> and describe my results for your reading pleasure. > >>> > >>> I have been working on a particularly difficult print that cannot > >>> tolerate any color cast to speak of. But it is a GREAT picture, a > >>> number of years old, from a Velvia slide scanned on a Nikon Coolscan > >>> 4000, that I've printed numerous times and with my latest prints > >>> I've gotten tired of the results being less than the image deserves. > >>> > >>> I'm printing it on Epson Premium Luster and Epson Velvet Fine Art. > >>> > >>> Thanks again and I'll let you know, > >>> Pat > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> ------------------------------------ > >>> > >>> Yahoo! Groups Links > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:datacolor_group-digest@yahoogroups.com mailto:datacolor_group-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: datacolor_group-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
2009-06-22 by CDTobie
We are making (ongoing) attempts to increase the target print size on the page. Windows in particular seems to assign unnecessarily large margins, so if you are printing under Windows, try reducing the default margins from our application; it should gain you more of your printable area. Since you use mm as a unit of measure, I assume you may be printing on A4, not letter? If that is the case, adding more text below the patches would reduce the printable width on A4, which is limited by the height of the page (in landscape) more than the width of it.There does seem to be a lot of difficulty in scanning the printed sheets. I wonder if a lot of this might go away if the print is made slightly larger so instead of a row being 220mm long it is maybe 260 or even 270mm long. My R800 would certainly handle 260mm and this just might make scanning a bit easier for fumble fingered males.
And if you were doing this then please add A to O along the bottom edge as well.
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2009-06-22 by CDTobie
>A few observations for those just starting with the equipment.
And a few observations, on your observations... 1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a good one. It just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch to patch.
Yes, its something I learned long ago in art school (and again later, in archtectural school):
you have much more control moving your arm towards your body, or even away from it,
then sideways. Its the trick to drawing a straight line...
>2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at least first thought.
Alignment does not need to be all that good; if entire nose is on the patch, thats more than sufficient;
but some people have what I call a "visual offset" (its why my wife can't cut a pan of brownies into even
size bars)... in the case of patch reading, this can result in errors, since where one THINKS one is placing
the nose, and where one is ACTUALLY placing it can be offset by a quarter of an inch or more. People with
this condition are better off printing oversize targets; if the patches are large enough, you hit them even
with an offset. >3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the supplied "Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced users don't need it - or maybe they just say they don't?.
Those with good eye-hand relationships truly don't need it. But its there for anyone who does. If you
have trouble an error-free set of measurement set, thats an indication you should try using it. >When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and only need to pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within the row. I finally got the patch to patch alignment right by looking at the "snout" on the paper and after moving it past the nearest white divider between patches then moving it back slightly in past the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more.
Yes, the guide, while it can slow down the row to row movement, eliminates concerns about staying on the row,
leaving the user to concentrate on hitting the patches in the row, not the row. Your description of the effort
required to align on a patch would indicate you may indeed have a visual offset condition.
>In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch with the snout and then move back in slightly just past the white divider. It's easy to see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit return as is your preference. I find clicking the Spectro is easier for me.
This method would be slow, but sure... >3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you will get only one audio "click" from the computer, rather than tw o. I don't know why. In that case with the arrow keys I move the red triangle back and "reshoot" that patch. Maybe unnecessary but who want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and then.
Not sure what might be causing this condition (perhaps a USB communications issue?),
but you are correct; its suspicious enough to deserve a rereading. >4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the patches during measurement. After coming upon the system described in (2) above I find looking at the measured patches, not the split, and after finishing each row comparing it to the hard copy being measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On occasion, maybe 3 or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your best efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience it's easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that at the end of the whole thing looking at the whole array of patches.
There tends to be more info for comparison when the whole grid is completed; but the
eye can be focussed on the patch to patch match better if you are reviewing only one row;
so its six of one, half a dozen of the other. But stopping after each row does assure that
you are moving slowly and deliberately, and not just racing through without proper attention... >5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little=2 0or no attention to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it won't be exactly the same. It's just that if the comparison shows a nonsense measurement you can see it. I think a nonsense read is because of slopping over onto the white divider between patches - but who knows?
Typically a bad read will be because of misalignment (so some of the border is measured as well),
or bad timing (so the device is not on the page during the entire measurement), or simply reading
the wrong patch.
OK, I installed the PB version of Spyder3 Print and, finally, profiled the Epson
Velvet Fine Art paper. A bit more comment about the "finally" below. Results -
outstanding! By that I mean the print is about as close as you could hope for
between hard copy and the monitor. My monitor, as I mentioned a day or so ago, I
profiled with the Spyder3 Elite. Really, the system works, at least with this
(difficult in the past) paper, just great.
On the "finally" part what I can offer is just patch measuring learnings by a
newbie with the Spectro.
First, after I screwed up 2 or three patch measurement series, and the profiles
that went with them, I started to pay attention. Always a last resort - I know.
A few observations for those just starting with the equipment.
1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a good one. It
just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch to patch.
2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at least first
thought.
3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the supplied
"Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced users don't need it - or
maybe they just say they don't?.
When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and only need to
pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within the row. I finally got the
patch to patch alignment right by looking at the "snout" on the
paper and after
moving it past the nearest white divider between patches then moving it back
slightly in past the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more.
In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch with the
snout and then move back in slightly just past the white divider. It's easy to
see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit return as is your preference. I find
clicking the Spectro is easier for me.
3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you will get only
one audio "click" from the computer, rather than two. I don't know why. In that
case with the arrow keys I move the red triangle back and "reshoot" that patch.
Maybe unnecessary but who want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and
then.
4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the patches during
measurement. After coming upon the system described in (2) above I find looking
at the measured patches, not the split, and after finishing each row comparing
it to the hard copy being measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On
occasion, maybe 3 or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your
best efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience it's
easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that at the end of the
whole thing looking at the whole array of patches.
5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little or=2
0no attention
to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it won't be exactly the same.
It's just that if the comparison shows a nonsense measurement you can see it. I
think a nonsense read is because of slopping over onto the white divider between
patches - but who knows?
Happy as a clam so far with the Spyder3 Studio. My next step is to redo the
Epson Premium Luster profile I did. Did that yesterday in hurry just after
installation. The print was ok - acceptable - compared to the display. But this
was before I had major issues with my first attempts with the Velvet Fine Art
today, then started paying attention with the patch measurements, etc.
I'm sure when I redo the profile for the Premium Luster it'll be even better. It
may sound like my little newbie patch reading system is too much but it probably
takes maybe 30% more time than doing a sloppy job - which with color profiling
is a job not worth doing - no?
Moving right along and happy with the new equipment. And I thought the
Spyder2Express was good. It was, but little did I know.
Pat
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2009-06-22 by chriscalvert@paradise.net.nz
The only reason to suggest A to O along the bottom edge is because the guide (which I have found really useful) obscures the top row of letters if you want to
2009-06-22 by David Miller
On Jun 21, 2009, at 10:56 PM, a1ncsky2 wrote: > > > OK, I installed the PB version of Spyder3 Print and, finally, > profiled the Epson Velvet Fine Art paper. A bit more comment about > the "finally" below. Results - outstanding! By that I mean the print > is about as close as you could hope for between hard copy and the > monitor. My monitor, as I mentioned a day or so ago, I profiled with > the Spyder3 Elite. Really, the system works, at least with this > (difficult in the past) paper, just great. > > On the "finally" part what I can offer is just patch measuring > learnings by a newbie with the Spectro. > > First, after I screwed up 2 or three patch measurement series, and > the profiles that went with them, I started to pay attention. Always > a last resort - I know. A few observations for those just starting > with the equipment. > > 1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a > good one. It just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch > to patch. > > Not only that, but you'll get larger patches. It's more than a recommendation, it's a serious recommendation..:-) The target images are created with a rectangular shape so that they'll better fit the expected orientation of the printed target page (which is landscape, or: the long way). If you print them in Portrait mode, you'll get very small patches that will be difficult or impossible to read. You should never print any of these targets in Portrait mode. They're designed to be printed in Landscape. > 2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at > least first thought. > > It also helps to print the patches larger. If you're running a Mac, this isn't a problem, because the Mac printer drivers default to margins that are reasonable (around .25"); so you get larger patches and less white border. Windows is a different story. The default for margins is 1", which produces smaller patches and more white border. We will use your margin settings, and remember them, but we can't change them for you; the Page Setup dialog that you're presented with comes from the operating system, not from us, and we can't override the default values and put something in there for you. So: if you're using Windows: in Page Setup, change your margins to . 25", reprint your targets, and you should end up with larger patches that will be much easier to read. > 3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the > supplied "Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced > users don't need it - or maybe they just say they don't?. > > When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and > only need to pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within > the row. I finally got the patch to patch alignment right by looking > at the "snout" on the paper and after moving it past the nearest > white divider between patches then moving it back slightly in past > the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more. > > In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch > with the snout and then move back in slightly just past the white > divider. It's easy to see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit > return as is your preference. I find clicking the Spectro is easier > for me. > > That's a different idea; I've never tried that. But I suspect that if you print the patches larger, as suggested above, that you won't need to do this. > 3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you > will get only one audio "click" from the computer, rather than two. > I don't know why. In that case with the arrow keys I move the red > triangle back and "reshoot" that patch. Maybe unnecessary but who > want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and then. > > > 4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the > patches during measurement. After coming upon the system described > in (2) above I find looking at the measured patches, not the split, > and after finishing each row comparing it to the hard copy being > measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On occasion, maybe 3 > or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your best > efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience > it's easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that > at the end of the whole thing looking at the whole array of patches. > > That's correct. Using "Measured" mode is better, even though the software comes up in Split. > 5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little or > no attention to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it > won't be exactly the same. It's just that if the comparison shows a > nonsense measurement you can see it. I think a nonsense read is > because of slopping over onto the white divider between patches - > but who knows? > > (see notes about larger patches...:-) > Happy as a clam so far with the Spyder3 Studio. My next step is to > redo the Epson Premium Luster profile I did. Did that yesterday in > hurry just after installation. The print was ok - acceptable - > compared to the display. But this was before I had major issues with > my first attempts with the Velvet Fine Art today, then started > paying attention with the patch measurements, etc. > > I'm sure when I redo the profile for the Premium Luster it'll be > even better. It may sound like my little newbie patch reading system > is too much but it probably takes maybe 30% more time than doing a > sloppy job - which with color profiling is a job not worth doing - no? > > Moving right along and happy with the new equipment. And I thought > the Spyder2Express was good. It was, but little did I know. > > Glad this is working out so well! David Miller Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions Datacolor
2009-06-22 by Christoph Fischer
i printed some targets using photoshop (no colormanagement, of course) where you have full control over the layout and size. It appeared to produce the same quality of profiles as the spyder software. there may be an issue with roller marks on some papers (e.g. epson 2100 with hahnemuhle fine art pearl). may be a good idea to apply a sufficiently large border. christoph
---original message--- CDTobie / CDTobie@... Mon, 22 Jun 2009 06:38:14 -0400 / Re: [datacolor_group] Just a suggestion or two >We are making (ongoing) attempts to increase the target print size on >the page.....
2009-06-22 by christoph fischer
Hi Pat i guess you are still printing with the epson 2200, aren't you? which OS and driver? please tell me whether the patches N8 and O8 on a matte (or velvet) paper appear as neutral grey or if there is a color cast, for example cyan, like the patches on my epson 2100 (in natural daylight or least at 4700 kelvin (=solux lamp)). thanks! christoph
2009-06-23 by a1ncsky2
David - Thanks for the advice. I will try decreasing the margins - it can only help. When I mentioned turning the paper sideways I meant physically turn it sideways when measuring the patches. I did print the patches in landscape mode as the software suggests. Pat --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, David Miller <dm2363@...> wrote:
> > > On Jun 21, 2009, at 10:56 PM, a1ncsky2 wrote: > > > > > > > OK, I installed the PB version of Spyder3 Print and, finally, > > profiled the Epson Velvet Fine Art paper. A bit more comment about > > the "finally" below. Results - outstanding! By that I mean the print > > is about as close as you could hope for between hard copy and the > > monitor. My monitor, as I mentioned a day or so ago, I profiled with > > the Spyder3 Elite. Really, the system works, at least with this > > (difficult in the past) paper, just great. > > > > On the "finally" part what I can offer is just patch measuring > > learnings by a newbie with the Spectro. > > > > First, after I screwed up 2 or three patch measurement series, and > > the profiles that went with them, I started to pay attention. Always > > a last resort - I know. A few observations for those just starting > > with the equipment. > > > > 1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a > > good one. It just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch > > to patch. > > > > > Not only that, but you'll get larger patches. It's more than a > recommendation, it's a serious > recommendation..:-) The target images are created with a rectangular > shape so that they'll > better fit the expected orientation of the printed target page (which > is landscape, or: the > long way). If you print them in Portrait mode, you'll get very small > patches that will be > difficult or impossible to read. > > You should never print any of these targets in Portrait mode. They're > designed to be > printed in Landscape. > > > 2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at > > least first thought. > > > > > > It also helps to print the patches larger. If you're running a Mac, > this isn't a problem, because > the Mac printer drivers default to margins that are reasonable > (around .25"); so you get larger > patches and less white border. > > Windows is a different story. The default for margins is 1", which > produces smaller patches and > more white border. > > We will use your margin settings, and remember them, but we can't > change them for you; the > Page Setup dialog that you're presented with comes from the operating > system, not from us, > and we can't override the default values and put something in there > for you. > > So: if you're using Windows: in Page Setup, change your margins to . > 25", reprint your targets, > and you should end up with larger patches that will be much easier to > read. > > 3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the > > supplied "Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced > > users don't need it - or maybe they just say they don't?. > > > > When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and > > only need to pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within > > the row. I finally got the patch to patch alignment right by looking > > at the "snout" on the paper and after moving it past the nearest > > white divider between patches then moving it back slightly in past > > the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more. > > > > In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch > > with the snout and then move back in slightly just past the white > > divider. It's easy to see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit > > return as is your preference. I find clicking the Spectro is easier > > for me. > > > > > > That's a different idea; I've never tried that. But I suspect that if > you print the patches > larger, as suggested above, that you won't need to do this. > > 3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you > > will get only one audio "click" from the computer, rather than two. > > I don't know why. In that case with the arrow keys I move the red > > triangle back and "reshoot" that patch. Maybe unnecessary but who > > want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and then. > > > > > > > 4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the > > patches during measurement. After coming upon the system described > > in (2) above I find looking at the measured patches, not the split, > > and after finishing each row comparing it to the hard copy being > > measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On occasion, maybe 3 > > or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your best > > efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience > > it's easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that > > at the end of the whole thing looking at the whole array of patches. > > > > > > That's correct. Using "Measured" mode is better, even though the > software comes up in Split. > > 5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little or > > no attention to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it > > won't be exactly the same. It's just that if the comparison shows a > > nonsense measurement you can see it. I think a nonsense read is > > because of slopping over onto the white divider between patches - > > but who knows? > > > > > > (see notes about larger patches...:-) > > > Happy as a clam so far with the Spyder3 Studio. My next step is to > > redo the Epson Premium Luster profile I did. Did that yesterday in > > hurry just after installation. The print was ok - acceptable - > > compared to the display. But this was before I had major issues with > > my first attempts with the Velvet Fine Art today, then started > > paying attention with the patch measurements, etc. > > > > I'm sure when I redo the profile for the Premium Luster it'll be > > even better. It may sound like my little newbie patch reading system > > is too much but it probably takes maybe 30% more time than doing a > > sloppy job - which with color profiling is a job not worth doing - no? > > > > Moving right along and happy with the new equipment. And I thought > > the Spyder2Express was good. It was, but little did I know. > > > > > > Glad this is working out so well! > > > > > David Miller > Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions > Datacolor >
2009-06-23 by CDTobie
I understood what you meant. It was the "other David" that missed your meaning...David - Thanks for the advice. I will try decreasing the margins - it can only help. When I mentioned turning the paper sideways I meant physically turn it sideways when measuring the patches. I did print the patches in landscape mode as the software suggests.
David - Thanks for the advice. I will try decreasing the margins - it can only help. When I mentioned turning the paper sideways I meant physically turn it sideways when measuring the patches. I did print the patches in landscape mode as the software suggests. Pat --- In datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com, David Miller wrote: > > > On Jun 21, 2009, at 10:56 PM, a1ncsky2 wrote: > > > > > > > OK, I installed the PB version of Spyder3 Print and, finally, > > profiled the Epson Velvet Fine Art paper. A bit more comment about > > the "finally" below. Results - outstanding! By that I mean the print > > is about as close as you could hope for between hard copy and the > > monitor. My monitor, as I mentioned a day or so ago, I profiled with > > the Spyder3 Elite. Really, the system works, at least with this > > (difficult in the past) paper, just great. > > > > On the "finally" part what I can offer is just patch measuring > > learnings by a newbie with the Spectro. > > > > First, after I screwed up 2 or three patch measurement series, and > > the profiles that went with them, I started to pay attention. Always > > a last resort - I know. A few observations for those just starting > > with the equipment. > > > > 1. The recommendation in the dialog to turn the paper sideways is a > > good one. It just helps with the movement of the Spectro from patch > > to patch. > > > > > Not only that, but you'll get larger patches. It's more than a > recommendation, it's a serious > recommendation..:-) The target images are created with a rectangular > shape so that they'll > better fit the expected orientation of the printed target page (which > is landscape, or: the > long way). If you print them in Portrait mode, you'll get very small > patches that will be > difficult or impossible to read. > > You should never print any of these targets in Portrait mode. They're > designed to be > printed in Landscape. > > > 2. You have to have the Spectro "snout" aligned better than I at > > least first thought. > > > > > > It also helps to print the patches larger. If you're running a Mac, > this isn't a problem, because > the Mac printer drivers default to margins that are reasonable > (around .25"); so you get larger > patches and less white border. > > Windows is a different story. The default for margins is 1", which > produces smaller patches and > more white border. > > We will use your margin settings, and remember them, but we can't > change them for you; the > Page Setup dialog that you're presented with comes from the operating > system, not from us, > and we can't override the default values and put something in there > for you. > > So: if you're using Windows: in Page Setup, change your margins to . > 25", reprint your targets, > and you should end up with larger patches that will be much easier to > read. > > 3. A good way to make sure you are aligned properly is to use the > > supplied "Print Guide Rule" even though, evidently, experienced > > users don't need it - or maybe they just say they don't?. > > > > When you use it you will be perfectly aligned on the patch row and > > only need to pay attention to the patch to patch alignment within > > the row. I finally got the patch to patch alignment right by looking > > at the "snout" on the paper and after moving it past the nearest > > white divider between patches then moving it back slightly in past > > the divider onto the patch, then maybe a little more. > > > > In other words, cover up the nearest white divider of the new patch > > with the snout and then move back in slightly just past the white > > divider. It's easy to see that way. Then click the Spectro or hit > > return as is your preference. I find clicking the Spectro is easier > > for me. > > > > > > That's a different idea; I've never tried that. But I suspect that if > you print the patches > larger, as suggested above, that you won't need to do this. > > 3. On occasion, after clicking the Spectro, or hitting return, you > > will get only one audio "click" from the computer, rather than two. > > I don't know why. In that case with the arrow keys I move the red > > triangle back and "reshoot" that patch. Maybe unnecessary but who > > want to take a chance. This happens to me only now and then. > > > > > > > 4. So far, for me, I have settled on the "measured" view of the > > patches during measurement. After coming upon the system described > > in (2) above I find looking at the measured patches, not the split, > > and after finishing each row comparing it to the hard copy being > > measured, tells me if I have shot a good row. On occasion, maybe 3 > > or 4 of the 225 patches I use I will see one that despite your best > > efforts needs to be tried again. In my very much limited experience > > it's easier to spot those if you review after each row rather that > > at the end of the whole thing looking at the whole array of patches. > > > > > > That's correct. Using "Measured" mode is better, even though the > software comes up in Split. > > 5. In reviewing the measured patches as in (4) above, pay little or > > no attention to the brightness or completely exact color. Often it > > won't be exactly the same. It's just that if the comparison shows a > > nonsense measurement you can see it. I think a nonsense read is > > because of slopping over onto the white divider between patches - > > but who knows? > > > > > > (see notes about larger patches...:-) > > > Happy as a clam so far with the Spyder3 Studio. My next step is to > > redo the Epson Premium Luster profile I did. Did that yesterday in > > hurry just after installation. The print was ok - acceptable - > > compared to the display. But this was before I had major issues with > > my first attempts with the Velvet Fine Art today, then started > > paying attention with the patch measurements, etc. > > > > I'm sure when I redo the profile for the Premium Luster it'll be > > even better. It may sound like my little newbie patch reading system > > is too much but it probably takes maybe 30% more time than doing a > > sloppy job - which with color profiling is a job not worth doing - no? > > > > Moving right along and happy with the new equipment. And I thought > > the Spyder2Express was good. It was, but little did I know. > > > > > > Glad this is working out so well! > > > > > David Miller > Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions > Datacolor > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/datacolor_group/join (Yahoo! 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