Mellotronists

Hi everyone:

I have just joined the list, and it's a pleasure to join my mellotronic
passion with you all :D.

I own a Mark VI (#48). I would like to make you a question about oiling
it. I have been oiling my 'tron in the past but never quite sure if I'm
doing it well. The problem is, english is not my native tongue, so the
explanations about the engine parts got somewhat confusing to follow for
me. Wouldn't anyone have/know a picture or graphic schema signaling the
points to oil the 'tron ?

Also, I am using a very light oil I had from an old sewing machine, and
I don't know if it's the proper oil to use in a mellotron. Any idea of
where can I buy a better one?

Hope hearing from you and best regards to all 'tronists.

Nacho.

--- In Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, Bondage Master
ignacionietocarvajal@...> wrote:
I have been oiling my 'tron in the past but never quite sure if I'm
doing it well.

I would not oil it. You should be able to play your new mellotron for
the next 20 years without oiling.

I have never used lubricant on reel to reel tape recorders or any
other mag tape machine.

Clay
MK VI #019

P.S. Dr. Jerry (the Proctologist) may recommend lubricant, but that's
another story.

--- ceccles_ca <ecclesreinson@...> wrote:

> --- In Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, Bondage Master
> ignacionietocarvajal@...> wrote:
> I have been oiling my 'tron in the past but never
> quite sure if I'm
> doing it well.


> I would not oil it. You should be able to play your
> new mellotron for
> the next 20 years without oiling.
>
> I have never used lubricant on reel to reel tape
> recorders or any
> other mag tape machine.
>
> Clay
> MK VI #019
>
> P.S. Dr. Jerry (the Proctologist) may recommend
> lubricant, but that's
> another story.
>
>
>

Hi all-
Welcome to all new members. You have chosen well.
Keep the rubber gloves close, though :)

Here's a related question. I am in the middle of
cleaning and re-positioning the motor on my M400. Got
the new grommets and washers, too. Upon removing the
belt I noticed that the flywheel/capstain turn freely.
However, the bearings make a little noise, as if the
balls are loose inside. Is this normal, or does it
indicate a need for oil and/or bearing replacement?

-Bruce Daily
M400 #1221




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--- In Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Daily <pocotron@...> >
Here's a related question. I am in the middle of

> cleaning and re-positioning the motor on my M400. Got
> the new grommets and washers, too. Upon removing the
> belt I noticed that the flywheel/capstain turn freely.
> However, the bearings make a little noise, as if the
> balls are loose inside. Is this normal, or does it
> indicate a need for oil and/or bearing replacement?
>
> -Bruce Daily
> M400 #1221
>
>
>
> Hello Bruce, Congrats on having the courage to tackle this. If the

bearings are making a light clicking or crackling sound, they are
probably dry inside. If it is more of a grinding sound, they need
replaced. While you are this far into it probably would be best all
around just to replace them regardless as they are an inexpensive
fix. Bearing Distributors is a good direct source, as they are
nationwide, or if you have a good Independent auto parts store, you
can measure from your old bearing and they can cross reference it.
Aside from that make sure you take the effort to make sure motor is
aligned with respect to capstan flywheel, double check this when you
place frame in cabinet. Hopefully you are going to replace the belt
also. Hope that was of help and good luck. Doug

>

_______________________________________________________________________
_____________

> Here's a related question. I am in the middle of
>cleaning and re-positioning the motor on my M400. Got
>the new grommets and washers, too. Upon removing the
>belt I noticed that the flywheel/capstain turn freely.
>However, the bearings make a little noise, as if the
>balls are loose inside. Is this normal, or does it
>indicate a need for oil and/or bearing replacement?

Although rare, it's not unusual to have to replace bearings.

MRC 104KSZZ
NSK 6004VVC3

The Prof showed me the trick of sticking your ear at the other end of
a metal bar or dowel that's against the bearing block and then
turning the capstan by hand. Crunchy sound = bad---replace the bearings.

I've thrown oil at mine from time to time. I don't know how much
actually gets in there---I need to get me one of those needle oiling
things for the next time.

Regarding motor oiling...At the Philly Symposium
(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/philly0501/working.htm) we went
over this and observed a few motors being cleaned/oiled. In addition
to cleaning out the brushes, I do recall having to put a few drops of
oil at either end of the shaft where it runs through the motor. I've
done this on #805 when I had the motor out and on "Mark" the Mark V
(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/mpb050604/index.htm). However I'm
not sure how effective this is. I guess the idea is that some of the
oil works its way in there, and that's that. Again, having one of
those needly oilers might be a good idea.

Oh, I used Hammond oil. I figure if it's good enough for one of those...:-)

I'm sure the Prof or one of the other tech guys can give us some more
detail (or un-do the lies I'm spreading :-) ) if needed.

...kl...
M400 #805 - old motor
M400 #1037 - new motor

** Ken Leonard - Web Table of Contents: http://www.kleonard.com
** Get Outdoors New England: http://www.GONewEngland.org

Ken Leonard wrote:

Although rare, it's not unusual to have to replace bearings.

MRC 104KSZZ
NSK 6004VVC3

The Prof showed me the trick of sticking your ear at the other end of
a metal bar or dowel that's against the bearing block and then
turning the capstan by hand. Crunchy sound = bad---replace the bearings.

I've thrown oil at mine from time to time. I don't know how much
actually gets in there---I need to get me one of those needle oiling
things for the next time.

Greetings KL and everyone, If bearings make a regular sounding
"clackety-clack" whilst rotating, similar to cadence of train wheels,
chances are the bearings are OK, but a bit dry. Esp. true on the older
models (MK-II,SFX/M300) . But grinding/cruching, nada ! Gotta repl. 'em .

Some "sealed" bearings aren't as sealed as others. Therefore, the
round felt washers adjacent to pillow blocks, to catch any migrating
lubricant. In those instances, a precision needle-oiler (from Rat-Shack),
will do the trick. Apply a small drop on what appears to be inner race cover,
NOT the capstan.

The metal rod trick is decades-old way that car mechanics used to
listen for faulty bearings or such in car engines. Kinda low-tech
stethoscope. Buy hey, seems to work !

Regarding motor oiling...At the Philly Symposium
(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/philly0501/working.htm) we went
over this and observed a few motors being cleaned/oiled. In addition
to cleaning out the brushes, I do recall having to put a few drops of
oil at either end of the shaft where it runs through the motor. I've
done this on #805 when I had the motor out and on "Mark" the Mark V
(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/mpb050604/index.htm). However I'm
not sure how effective this is. I guess the idea is that some of the
oil works its way in there, and that's that. Again, having one of
those needly oilers might be a good idea.

Oh, I used Hammond oil. I figure if it's good enough for one of those...:-)

I'm sure the Prof or one of the other tech guys can give us some more
detail (or un-do the lies I'm spreading :-) ) if needed.

...kl... M400 #805 - old motor , M400 #1037 - new motor

The orig. motors have lubed bushings which get dirty/dry from age
and/or neglect. Once cleaned, armatures should be moving freely.
Needle-oiler as Ken indicated is very useful.

Sewing-machine or 3-in-1 (has nice smell too!) are excellent too.

I've endurance tested every motor here at the M-Ranch after
Prev. Maint. by running top-speed a minimum of 24 hrs. Checking
for drift in SMS electronics, etc. See photo of one example.

....How does that old saying go ?......" A squeaky wheel ...... ? "

Cheers, -- JK-- (a bit squeaky, due to spring cold)

--- Jerry Korb <jkorb@...> wrote:

>
>
> Ken Leonard wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Although rare, it's not unusual to have to replace
> bearings.
> >
> > MRC 104KSZZ
> > NSK 6004VVC3
> >
> > The Prof showed me the trick of sticking your ear
> at the other end of
> > a metal bar or dowel that's against the bearing
> block and then
> > turning the capstan by hand. Crunchy sound =
> bad---replace the bearings.
> >
> > I've thrown oil at mine from time to time. I
> don't know how much
> > actually gets in there---I need to get me one of
> those needle oiling
> > things for the next time.
> >
>
>
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>
>
>
> Greetings KL and everyone, If bearings make a
> regular sounding
> "clackety-clack" whilst rotating, similar to cadence
> of train wheels,
> chances are the bearings are OK, but a bit dry. Esp.
> true on the older
> models (MK-II,SFX/M300) . But grinding/cruching,
> nada ! Gotta repl. 'em .
>
> Some "sealed" bearings aren't as sealed as others.
> Therefore, the
> round felt washers adjacent to pillow blocks, to
> catch any migrating
> lubricant. In those instances, a precision
> needle-oiler (from Rat-Shack),
> will do the trick. Apply a small drop on what
> appears to be inner race cover,
> NOT the capstan.
>
> The metal rod trick is decades-old way that car
> mechanics used to
> listen for faulty bearings or such in car engines.
> Kinda low-tech
> stethoscope. Buy hey, seems to work !
>
>
>
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>
> >
> > Regarding motor oiling...At the Philly Symposium
> >
>

(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/philly0501/working.htm)

> we went
> > over this and observed a few motors being
> cleaned/oiled. In addition
> > to cleaning out the brushes, I do recall having to
> put a few drops of
> > oil at either end of the shaft where it runs
> through the motor. I've
> > done this on #805 when I had the motor out and on
> "Mark" the Mark V
> >
>

(http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/mpb050604/index.htm).

> However I'm
> > not sure how effective this is. I guess the idea
> is that some of the
> > oil works its way in there, and that's that.
> Again, having one of
> > those needly oilers might be a good idea.
> >
> > Oh, I used Hammond oil. I figure if it's good
> enough for one of those...:-)
> >
> > I'm sure the Prof or one of the other tech guys
> can give us some more
> > detail (or un-do the lies I'm spreading :-) ) if
> needed.
> >
> > ...kl... M400 #805 - old motor , M400
> #1037 - new motor
>
>
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>
> The orig. motors have lubed bushings which get
> dirty/dry from age
> and/or neglect. Once cleaned, armatures should be
> moving freely.
> Needle-oiler as Ken indicated is very useful.
>
> Sewing-machine or 3-in-1 (has nice smell too!) are
> excellent too.
>
> I've endurance tested every motor here at the
> M-Ranch after
> Prev. Maint. by running top-speed a minimum of 24
> hrs. Checking
> for drift in SMS electronics, etc. See photo of
> one example.
>
> ....How does that old saying go ?......" A squeaky
> wheel ...... ? "
>
> Cheers, -- JK-- (a bit squeaky, due to spring cold)
>

Thanks, Jerry-
Help abounds on this forum. I got the motor
cleaned, oiled (1/2 drop on each end) and back in
position. New rubber bushings, too. Had to flatten
the large motor mounting plate a bit, but the geometry
is now correct (the belt tension was a bit much, ya
think?). Belt now rides centered and true. I think
the previous owner was tightening the belt to
compensate for worn bearings, screwing up the
motor/belt geometry in the process. I did add a
little oil to the capstan bearings, but the difference
was minor. Bearings will be next, for sure.

Happy 'tronning
-Bruce Daily



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