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Cleaning Felt/Spillbox

Cleaning Felt/Spillbox

2007-05-07 by john barrick

Well, I'm onto the spillbox with 1407.  Along with fabricating new 
brackets for the bottom, I'm wondering if there's a prescribed method of 
cleaning the big felt pad at the front of the spillbox where the tape 
enters?  The piece on 1407 is pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what the 
best method would be - maybe purchase a new piece?  Is it safe to assume 
that wiping down the box itself with a damp (water) rag is ok - it looks 
to be finished in some kind of light varnish or shellac.

On a different note, I've noticed after reassembling the keyboard that I 
have a couple of notes that stick when depressed.  The best solution 
I've found so far is to switch the pinch roller assembly out with other 
keys, so they attach differently to the frame - this has gotten one key 
unstuck (they're both black keys) and I'm still switching out the other 
hoping to find the right pinch roller assembly for it. I had the keys 
off the frame for about a week - is it possible that some of them might 
warp during that time?

john

Re: Cleaning Felt/Spillbox

2007-05-07 by Doug Berg

--- In Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, john barrick <astroboy@...> 
wrote:
>
> Well, I'm onto the spillbox with 1407.  Along with fabricating new 
> brackets for the bottom, I'm wondering if there's a prescribed 
method of 
> cleaning the big felt pad at the front of the spillbox where the 
tape 
> enters?  The piece on 1407 is pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what 
the 
> best method would be - maybe purchase a new piece?  Is it safe to 
assume 
> that wiping down the box itself with a damp (water) rag is ok - it 
looks 
> to be finished in some kind of light varnish or shellac.
> 
> On a different note, I've noticed after reassembling the keyboard 
that I 
> have a couple of notes that stick when depressed.  The best 
solution 
> I've found so far is to switch the pinch roller assembly out with 
other 
> keys, so they attach differently to the frame - this has gotten 
one key 
> unstuck (they're both black keys) and I'm still switching out the 
other 
> hoping to find the right pinch roller assembly for it. I had the 
keys 
> off the frame for about a week - is it possible that some of them 
might 
> warp during that time?
> 
> john
>


Re; Hi Again John
 Last thing first, if you have a key that won't return after 
depressing, the pinch roller is not a factor, it merely goes along 
for the ride on what the key does. Since I assume you disassembled 
the keys from the frame, it is most likely a misalignment. Since 
this is your first time at this, the logical thing is to recheck 
your work step by step methodically eliminating possibilities. One 
of my keys had a 10 degree twist but still managed to return, so we 
can assume it is a matter of readjustment here or a felt insert on 
bottom of key had shifted.  At any rate the first step would be to 
remove the stop bar from top of key frame. Lift suspect keys up and 
check felt insert on underside to see if it became unseated.  Make 
sure nyloc nut at rear of frame holding roller and tension assembly 
is loose, I do not believe these are to be snugged down with nylock 
as that is your return tension adjustment for key. Is the oval 
guidepin symmetrically correct with adjoining pins?  If this does 
not fix problem, remove keyrack and seperate key from roller strip, 
lay key on each side on known flat surface and chech for warpage. If 
more than a trace of "twist" is found, key will need to be 
straightened, if just a trace or none then proceed.  Then Place key 
in normal position and check for resistance between guide pin and 
felt insert.  You may, with key depressed on pin, gently rock it 
clockwise and counter-clockwise if necessary to spread felt open , 
but be gentle here. Again recheck depressing key in normal 
position.   Reinstall key but do not tighten screw on bottom that 
secures roller assy to key and try depressing key with it loose 
going fore and aft and note any difference in return.  With all 
that, reassemble everything leaving screw on bottom of key loose and 
retry depressing suspect keys, find spot with least resistance, 
tighten and recheck. If you indeed have exessive "twist" or warpage, 
key will need to be re straightened, another topic.

As for cleaning strip on spillbox, if the material looks brittle, 
would probably be best to leave it be for now and think of replacing 
it.  If you think it will withstand cleaning, try a foam upholstery 
cleaner as this will "lift" soil matter out and when good and dry 
you can dab it with cloth to remove dirt.  I cleaned the wooden box 
with orange furniture cleaner and then used furniture polish with 
several applications and buffed, looks like it was varnished 
yesterday.  

Also I will leave you my phone # in offline post, as some of this is 
explained easier one on one.   Hope that helps ... Doug

Re: [Mellotronists] Cleaning Felt/Spillbox

2007-05-07 by tronbros@aol.com

Hi John,
 
Most keys stick for a number of reasons:
 
1) The hole underneath has become tight and you need to use a 'key easer'  
that piano tuners use.  These crush the wood accurately alowing the key to  ride 
on the pin.
 
2) The felt underneath is dislodged and the pin is riding inside the wrong  
bit
 
3) One pinchroller spring is catching another.  Check alignment
 
4) The key is warped and will need judicious sanding to stop it interfering  
with the adjacent key
 
5) The key pin is too far forward or too far back and is not central to the  
hole in the key.
 
If you swop around the pinchrollers then you will need to adjust the white  
keys for level using the back woodscrew in either the left or right  position.
 
Best,
 
Martin
 
STREETLY ELECTRONICS - All Things  Mellotronic
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Re: Cleaning Felt/Spillbox

2007-05-07 by Ken Leonard

> On a different note, I've noticed after reassembling the keyboard
that I 
> have a couple of notes that stick when depressed.

In addition to the other suggestion out here (warped key, nylock nut
not adjusted correctly, etc), a likely candidate for a sticky key is
the pin under the front of the key.  The felt inside the hole under
the key sometimes expands, and the key sticks a bit on that pin.

Streetly has a special tool to fix this---it's probably something
someone who makes or repairs pianos would have.  See "The Crimper":

http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/tronto2k/tools.htm

I don't have one of these, so when I had the same sticky key problem
in #1037, I took a flat blade screwdriver, put it in the hole, and
pressed it against the sides of the hole (holding the sides of the
key, of course, as you can snap the wood, which would be very
bad---maybe put the key down on its side to get the sides of the
hole).  I also turned the blade a bit and listened to the crunch of
the felt as it got compressed back down.  Be very careful not to snap
the thin wood on the sides of the key.  Basically you just have to
crunch the felt back down to where the pin rides in the center of the
hole again without getting stuck.  It did the trick for me.

...kl...
M400 #805 - got crimped
M400 #1037 - got crunched