>I am going to take a look at a Mellotron M- >400, tomorrow >afternoon. Since I've never played, or even touched a >Mellotron before - I don't have a baseline to determine the >quality of the instrument. oof...Big question. Best advice: Find someone who knows these things to go with you. But that's not always possible... In addition to that which was previously mentioned, check the capstan, and make sure it's not bowed (very unlikely), pitted, gouged, or rusted. Replacing one can be a bit of a repair bill. Capstan bearings can be replaced if needed, btw. If there's a CMC-10, you WILL be replacing it, and it WILL set you back several hundred bucks. Make sure the motor is in good shape. It shouldn't run hot, it shouldn't sound labored or noisy (if the belt is the right tension and the capstan bearings are good), and it should spin up fairly quickly and have no trouble making things turn. However you will notice a pitch dive when you play >4 notes simultaneously if there's a CMC-10 in there, and there'll be lots of whine (with a CMC-10). This should not be the case if there's an SMS motor controller in there. Do all the controls work? Tapes should rise and fall with ease if the tape path is straight. But if it turns out to be an EMI M400, good luck...:-) If the keyboard action is stiff, it could be poor adjustment. Generally if the screws are way down or buried, that's what you've got. Folks, if you find that you're adjusting your keyboard and continuing to drive the screws further down, you have another problem---back off and try again---if it's still horrid, there's something else wrong (pinch roller, funky head, bad felt, bad tape, bad tape path, missing/loose keyboard thumbscrew, etc). Remove the keyboard and spin the pinch rollers. If they're stiff, the Merbler Flick may clear that, or you may need new ones (not *too* expensive, fortunately). If some felt is missing on the pressure pads or where the adjustment screws are, just go to American Piano Supply. :-) Make sure you get all the parts, including the aluminum cover to the tape take-up box. Make sure all tape heads produce some sound (replacement tape heads are available---someone on the list probably has a few hanging around---although they're touchy to solder in because the wire is somewhat fine). If the tapes don't look worn, aren't moldy or dirty, and appear to be in good shape, they may very well be usable still. Properly stored, they can last quite a long time (decades). Checking for signs of abuse was a good suggestion. As long as the basic mechanicals and electronics are OK, everything else is usually minor fixits and tweaks (once you figure out the quirks of these machines). However replacing the motor and motor controller can get a bit expensive, especially with the current exchange rate. Add in a capstan and power supply, and you may as well move on to the next machine unless your bargaining skills are top notch. :-) But before purchasing a Mellotron, you must have some basic competence in things mechanical, as adjusting these things or tracking down a problem can drive you nuts. Often times a machine that sounds like crap only needs some basic tweaks, but sometimes not. If you're not good at this stuff or are shy about opening something up to fiddle with it, you might think twice or at least be sure you have a good support system before looking into an M400. If screw drivers and Ohm meters baffle you, completely avoid that M300 or Mark II you've been pondering. Hell---they scare *me*! :-) Good luck, and have fun in your adventure! ...kl... M400 #805 - showed up with SMS-4 M400 #1037 - showed up with CMC-10, smoked motor, and mouse poop
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Re: [Mellotronists] Looking at an M-400
2005-03-23 by Ken Leonard
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