Mellotronists

Ken Leonard wrote:

>
>
> Although rare, it's not unusual to have to replace bearings.
>
> MRC 104KSZZ
> NSK 6004VVC3
>
> The Prof showed me the trick of sticking your ear at the other end of
> a metal bar or dowel that's against the bearing block and then
> turning the capstan by hand.  Crunchy sound = bad---replace the bearings.
>
> I've thrown oil at mine from time to time.  I don't know how much
> actually gets in there---I need to get me one of those needle oiling
> things for the next time.
>

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Greetings KL and everyone,  If bearings make a regular sounding
"clackety-clack" whilst rotating, similar to cadence of train wheels,
chances are the bearings are OK, but a bit dry. Esp. true on the older
models (MK-II,SFX/M300) .  But grinding/cruching, nada ! Gotta repl. 'em .

Some "sealed" bearings aren't as sealed as others. Therefore, the
round felt washers adjacent to  pillow blocks, to catch any migrating
lubricant.  In those instances, a precision needle-oiler (from Rat-Shack),
will do the trick. Apply a small drop on what appears to be inner race cover,
NOT the capstan.

The metal rod trick is decades-old way that  car mechanics used to
listen for faulty bearings or such in car engines. Kinda low-tech
stethoscope.  Buy hey, seems to work !


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>
> Regarding motor oiling...At the Philly Symposium
> (http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/philly0501/working.htm) we went
> over this and observed a few motors being cleaned/oiled.  In addition
> to cleaning out the brushes, I do recall having to put a few drops of
> oil at either end of the shaft where it runs through the motor.  I've
> done this on #805 when I had the motor out and on "Mark" the Mark V
> (http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/mpb050604/index.htm).  However I'm
> not sure how effective this is.  I guess the idea is that some of the
> oil works its way in there, and that's that.  Again, having one of
> those needly oilers might be a good idea.
>
> Oh, I used Hammond oil.  I figure if it's good enough for one of those...:-)
>
> I'm sure the Prof or one of the other tech guys can give us some more
> detail (or un-do the lies I'm spreading :-) ) if needed.
>
> ...kl...  M400 #805 - old motor       ,   M400 #1037 - new motor

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The orig. motors have lubed bushings which get dirty/dry from age
and/or neglect. Once cleaned, armatures should be moving freely.
Needle-oiler as Ken indicated is very useful.

Sewing-machine or 3-in-1 (has nice smell too!) are excellent too.

I've endurance tested every motor here at the M-Ranch after
Prev. Maint. by running top-speed a minimum of 24 hrs. Checking
for drift in SMS electronics, etc.   See photo of one example.

....How does that old saying go ?......" A squeaky wheel ...... ? "

Cheers, -- JK--  (a bit squeaky, due to spring cold)