--- In Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, john barrick <astroboy@...>
wrote:
Yes most of the main part of frame is riveted and I don't see why
you just can't clean around it. The tricky part is the wooden
spillbox. Note exactly where fasteners mount before you remove
them, especially at bottom of box, don't know what you will find as
far as mounting holes on brackets. There should be a foam "wiper"
that contacts the capstan,mounted to box hopefully, and will
probably need a good cleaning.. Be gentle here as you do not want to
tear it. The hard part is adjusting the box to get proper clearance
between pad and capstan as well as proper angle for the wooden mount
on motor side. Assuming you have replaced the 4 rubber grommets on
motor mount and all fastening hardware is in proper place, tighten
spillbox mounts on wooden sides first, then you will need to adjust
motor panel to be vertically parallel to capstan flywheel, at the
same time allowing wiper to contact capstan without any noticable
drag on capstan, (word of the Professor) Just make sure wooden sides
are parallel with sides of cabinet before you tighten nuts. It would
be a good idea to do this with frame in cabinet to insure proper
alignment.
As far as tapes go, the answer to your question is NOOOO! Just
making extra work. Some tapes are marked with number, hash marks
for start point, and what sounds are on them. If not, best way is
to get a China marker, yellow or white, number the strips according
to keys, #1 extreme left, and also with the tapes mounted in normal
position draw a centerline at the middle of the head for each strip.
Now when you rethread them in the rack you will be right on the
money. Either spool the tapes on to something like a thread spool or
use a yardstick and 35 clothespins but I would not just drop them in
a box. The first time I threaded a rack it took just over 2 hours,
but as you get accustomed to it, seems to go a little quicker, just
use patience. Anyhow that's my method, good luck John.......Doug
wrote:
>that will
> so I'm cleaning up 1407 - pretty much disassembling everything
> come apart and doing whatever's necessary to get it nice and shinythe
> (mostly polishing aluminum). I've gotten down to the tray that
> headblock rides left and right on and discover that the trayappears to
> fixed to the frame with pop rivets. I'm a bit surprised as so far,some
> everything else has been screwe/bolted into place. I guess for
> reason, this is not meant to separate from the frame, so I'm goingto
> have to remove the spill box to get at the screws on therear "comb"
> tape path assembly. Does anyone know why this would be rivetedand not
> screwed into the frame?the tape
>
> thanks,
> john
>
> PS - it's become obvious to me that I'm going to have to remove
> set from the tape frame to properly clean it up. Is there a goodmethod
> for that or should I just pull the tapes out, toss them into thecorner
> and try to sort them all out later?Re: Hello John,
>
Yes most of the main part of frame is riveted and I don't see why
you just can't clean around it. The tricky part is the wooden
spillbox. Note exactly where fasteners mount before you remove
them, especially at bottom of box, don't know what you will find as
far as mounting holes on brackets. There should be a foam "wiper"
that contacts the capstan,mounted to box hopefully, and will
probably need a good cleaning.. Be gentle here as you do not want to
tear it. The hard part is adjusting the box to get proper clearance
between pad and capstan as well as proper angle for the wooden mount
on motor side. Assuming you have replaced the 4 rubber grommets on
motor mount and all fastening hardware is in proper place, tighten
spillbox mounts on wooden sides first, then you will need to adjust
motor panel to be vertically parallel to capstan flywheel, at the
same time allowing wiper to contact capstan without any noticable
drag on capstan, (word of the Professor) Just make sure wooden sides
are parallel with sides of cabinet before you tighten nuts. It would
be a good idea to do this with frame in cabinet to insure proper
alignment.
As far as tapes go, the answer to your question is NOOOO! Just
making extra work. Some tapes are marked with number, hash marks
for start point, and what sounds are on them. If not, best way is
to get a China marker, yellow or white, number the strips according
to keys, #1 extreme left, and also with the tapes mounted in normal
position draw a centerline at the middle of the head for each strip.
Now when you rethread them in the rack you will be right on the
money. Either spool the tapes on to something like a thread spool or
use a yardstick and 35 clothespins but I would not just drop them in
a box. The first time I threaded a rack it took just over 2 hours,
but as you get accustomed to it, seems to go a little quicker, just
use patience. Anyhow that's my method, good luck John.......Doug
