Homebrew PCBs

would I be correct in saying that Toner generaly melts at around 200 C /392 F ?

Thanks 
Thomas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 15:08:22 +0700, Thomas <teecee@...> wrote:

>
> would I be correct in saying that Toner generaly melts at around 200 C  
> /392 F ?
> Thanks
> Thomas


Probably not, as my fuser has 160C.
But "somewhere there", yes.

ST

and different toners have different fusing points. 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 15:08:22 +0700, Thomas <teecee@c...> wrote:
> 
> >
> > would I be correct in saying that Toner generaly melts at around
200 C  

> > /392 F ?
> > Thanks
> > Thomas
> 
> 
> Probably not, as my fuser has 160C.
> But "somewhere there", yes.
> 
> ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas" <teecee@c...> wrote:
> would I be correct in saying that Toner generaly melts at around 200 C /392 F ?
> 
> Thanks 
> Thomas
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

According to the manual for the HP4L, the fuser is 180C.
But the specs on the media call out 200C for 0.1 seconds.

This is a relatively short time relative to the 2-3 minutes
recommended for the iron method.
And the thermal mass is approximately zero compared to the board.

Would be interesting to have some experimental data with actual
numbers.
mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "gettingalongwouldbenice" 
<gettingalongwouldbenice@y...> wrote:

> According to the manual for the HP4L, the fuser is 180C.
> But the specs on the media call out 200C for 0.1 seconds.
> 
> This is a relatively short time relative to the 2-3 minutes
> recommended for the iron method.
> And the thermal mass is approximately zero compared to the board.

I always pre-heat the PCB, face down, on a hot plate at 350F (~180C) 
before doing the transfer and I've found I don't really need a hot 
iron if I get the paper on the PCB fast enough after pulling it out 
of the hot plate. Also, the transfer is just about instant.

Today, I tried one right in the hot plate, with the PCB face up, and 
managed to burn myself and char the back side of the PCB... <GRIN> 
Oh well... I think if my hot plate had less of a lip and I set the 
temp lower or flipped the PCB over at the last second, it would work 
great.

Thanks for the replies, the reason I ask is the other day I was doing a PCB and after the soak in the water I noticed that the Toner was still Powdery looking and the slightest rub with the finger resulted in exposing the Copper the Toner was not Cooked enough.....  not enough Iron Time or its to Cold perhaps .

I have also been thinking about making 1/2" Alloy Top & Bottom Plates that are Indexed to heat up instead of using the Iron for a double sided Job, and using some small Over centre Clamps to hold the assy together.

Thomas

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: James Newton 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 7:10 AM
  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TONER MELTING POINT ??



  --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "gettingalongwouldbenice" 
  <gettingalongwouldbenice@y...> wrote:

  > According to the manual for the HP4L, the fuser is 180C.
  > But the specs on the media call out 200C for 0.1 seconds.
  > 
  > This is a relatively short time relative to the 2-3 minutes
  > recommended for the iron method.
  > And the thermal mass is approximately zero compared to the board.

  I always pre-heat the PCB, face down, on a hot plate at 350F (~180C) 
  before doing the transfer and I've found I don't really need a hot 
  iron if I get the paper on the PCB fast enough after pulling it out 
  of the hot plate. Also, the transfer is just about instant.

  Today, I tried one right in the hot plate, with the PCB face up, and 
  managed to burn myself and char the back side of the PCB... <GRIN> 
  Oh well... I think if my hot plate had less of a lip and I set the 
  temp lower or flipped the PCB over at the last second, it would work 
  great.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>"Thomas" <teecee@c...> wrote:
>I have also been thinking about making 1/2" Alloy Top & Bottom 
>Plates that are Indexed to heat up instead of using the Iron for a 
>double sided Job, and using some small Over centre Clamps to hold 
>the assy together.

Thomas,

Hmmm, this sounds like a waffle iron... (Some older models had/have 
flat plates on the reverse of the "waffled" side. Chack out thrift 
stores; they always have a few "in stock" <G>) For that matter if you 
can find a newer one with flat faces they'll be teflon coated and it 
will be small; one of the "sandwich toasters" perhaps? 

Would be pretty easy to set up a controlled pressure/time...

And for James, They have a low lip, for easy access...

Hope this helps,

Ballendo

where would we all be with out the all those domestic Gooooodies from the Kitchen and laundry ?
yeh spose it is kinda like the Waffle Iron !

Thomas

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: ballendo 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 11:22 AM
  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TONER MELTING POINT ??



  >"Thomas" <teecee@c...> wrote:
  >I have also been thinking about making 1/2" Alloy Top & Bottom 
  >Plates that are Indexed to heat up instead of using the Iron for a 
  >double sided Job, and using some small Over centre Clamps to hold 
  >the assy together.

  Thomas,

  Hmmm, this sounds like a waffle iron... (Some older models had/have 
  flat plates on the reverse of the "waffled" side. Chack out thrift 
  stores; they always have a few "in stock" <G>) For that matter if you 
  can find a newer one with flat faces they'll be teflon coated and it 
  will be small; one of the "sandwich toasters" perhaps? 

  Would be pretty easy to set up a controlled pressure/time...

  And for James, They have a low lip, for easy access...

  Hope this helps,

  Ballendo  





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