Homebrew_PCBs

I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and it
appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?

And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
voltage to the fuser? Mike

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 05:37:24 -0000, mikezcnc <eemikez@...> wrote:

>
> I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
> heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and it
> appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?
> And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
> voltage to the fuser? Mike
>

yes, and yes, but only short without thermostat it will overheat.

See my notes at:
<http://stud4.tuwien.ac.at/~e0225977/pub/fuser/fuser_as_laminator.html>

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:

>
> I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
> heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and it
> appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?
>
> And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
> voltage to the fuser? Mike

It's gonna depend on your particular model. I'm a newbie at this, but
I'm quite certain that if you put 120VAC to the fuser element, you'll
burn it up before you can get it turned off.

My Laserjet 4L heats in 10 seconds. It has a thermistor that
controls the power to set the temperature at 200C. That's 10C
a second. I'm sure
it'd meltdown in half a minute at full power. Well, I guess the thermal
fuse would open before it actually melted the metal.

I wouldn't even think about running a fuser without some kind
of temperature feedback.
mike

It´s just a halogenlamp... With a temperature controller...

----- Original Message -----
From: gettingalongwouldbenice
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2004 11:53 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP Laserjet Fuser



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
> heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and it
> appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?
>
> And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
> voltage to the fuser? Mike

It's gonna depend on your particular model. I'm a newbie at this, but
I'm quite certain that if you put 120VAC to the fuser element, you'll
burn it up before you can get it turned off.

My Laserjet 4L heats in 10 seconds. It has a thermistor that
controls the power to set the temperature at 200C. That's 10C
a second. I'm sure
it'd meltdown in half a minute at full power. Well, I guess the thermal
fuse would open before it actually melted the metal.

I wouldn't even think about running a fuser without some kind
of temperature feedback.
mike





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am working with a fuser of a HP 4L printer for my laminator. This printer
have two models of fuser: one for 110v a other for 220v. I understand that
if the printer is for 220v, then the fuser to work directly with the 220v.
This is my case.

Esteban Arias
earias@...



At 02:37 a.m. 11-11-2004, you wrote:

>I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
>heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and it
>appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?
>
>And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
>voltage to the fuser? Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Those are interesting posts. Then using one of those dimmer switches
would lower the voltage to test it, right? Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
> heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and
it
> appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your fusers?
>
> And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
> voltage to the fuser? Mike

My laser is Laser 1 on 2, don't remember. I took it apart and it take
some searching for th heater element leads, but it my case it runs
from left to right, inside theheating drum. All other leads are for
temp regulation. I was curious to see if the fuser heats up and
decided to apply a 26V AC just because that was the transformer I had
at the time. I touche a thermometer probe to thedrum and connected
the 26V- the temp slowly, very slowly started to ramp up. That was
encouraging to me, it proved the fuser was operational. For some
eason the resistance I got was exceptionally low, 4 ohms or so.

My next question si: can I use a regular dimemr to adjust the
temperature?

Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> Those are interesting posts. Then using one of those dimmer
switches
> would lower the voltage to test it, right? Mike
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
> >
> > I have a laserjet fuser and an curious if voltages used for the
> > heating element are fairly similar. I traced from the circuit and
> it
> > appears that it is a 120V AC. Is this what you have in your
fusers?
> >
> > And if so then for the test purposes have you tried to apply that
> > voltage to the fuser? Mike

Does anyone know more about the Silver Paste Through
Hole (SPTH) method? According to my knowledge that's
the easiest way of through hole plating while using
silkscreen.

If anyone knows could you pls tell me that where can i
find that conductive silver ink from eastern asia region?



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--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:

>
> My next question si: can I use a regular dimemr to adjust the
> temperature?
>
> Mike

You are asking about an open loop temperature control mechanism. This
will sort of work but a closed loop (feedback) mechanism will work a
lot better. Its the difference between turning on your furnace at a
steady rate vs using a thermostat to maintain a set temperature.
There are many designs for thermistors out there.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:

>
> My laser is Laser 1 on 2, don't remember. I took it apart and it take
> some searching for th heater element leads, but it my case it runs
> from left to right, inside theheating drum. All other leads are for
> temp regulation. I was curious to see if the fuser heats up and
> decided to apply a 26V AC just because that was the transformer I had
> at the time. I touche a thermometer probe to thedrum and connected
> the 26V- the temp slowly, very slowly started to ramp up. That was
> encouraging to me, it proved the fuser was operational. For some
> eason the resistance I got was exceptionally low, 4 ohms or so.
>
> My next question si: can I use a regular dimemr to adjust the
> temperature?
>
> Mike

Nope.
You can use a dimmer to adjust the POWER. That's not exactly correct,
but close enough for our purposes. For a given power input,
there will be a thermal equilibrium temperature...that varies with
ambient, load, wind, etc.

Get in your car, push the accelerator
half way down and hold it there. How fast will you go???

There's not much room between "hot enough
to fuse toner" and "blowing the thermal fuse". Do not under any
circumstances remove the thermal fuse. Your fire insurance won't
cover you when you burn your house down.

mike