Homebrew_PCBs

> I have a question regarding the Piezo Heads in Epson printers.
> According to one of the links provided in the previous Inkjet
> threads, the Epson inks are solvent-based. Now I have read that
> solvent inks are non-water based inks. My question is if that can be
> construed as oil based inks? If so, I think I have found some cheap
> refillable inks that I will put into my Epson Ink cartridge and print
> out on some aluminium as Stefan has suggested.

>
> I feel that once we get the ink situated, a flatbed printer
> conversion would help make the pcb printing process complete becuase
> it would allow for component legends and double sided printing to
> occur flawlessly.

> Why use oil-inks? Why not use solvent inks?
> Take the ink for permanent markers known to work with pcbs.
> Maybe dilute with alcohol.
> I think the epson are alcohol based??

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>> Why use oil-inks? Why not use solvent inks?
>> Take the ink for permanent markers known to work with pcbs.
>> Maybe dilute with alcohol.
>> I think the epson are alcohol based??
>
> The issue here is that I am in the US and cannot find any of the
> Staedler Refill Stations. Maybe if there was a way to remove the ink
> from the pens themselves?

>
> What I am wondering if solvent inks are oil inks?
>

> get a "sharpie"

> are you sure that they are not water based, where to read?

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>> get a "sharpie"
>
> Hmm, maybe placing the sharpie in alcohol to "drain" it would work.
> And I noticed that it tends to keep its permanence.
>
>
>> are you sure that they are not water based, where to read?
>
> Well this site says that Water is different then solvent/oil based.
> http://www.signweb.com/digital/cont/inkjetinks990602.html
>
> Question is, are the Epsons a solvent based ink printer as says this
> site: http://www.inkjetcartridges.com/_piezo-electric-technology.html
>
> Genaro M.

> I'will remind that my experience with floor wax
> killed few printers.

> Stefan, Not to disagree with you, but I recently experimented with
> Epson 1520 which isa piezo printer and the printer doesn't like
> anything different than original Epson printer. After using an
> aftermarket ink the printer died and the printhead smoked (!)
>
> I'will remind that my experience with floor wax killed few printers.
> The feeding of PCB is easy the problem si the ink. I suggest that any
> printer that has a printhead with the cartridge is better because if
> something goes wrong it can be replaced...
>
> Mike
>

> substances that conduct. I'll bet if you get your
> hands on the spec sheet for inks used in Piezo head
> printers, the ink when in liquid form is
> non-conductive and does not build up inside the print
> head.

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> > Why use oil-inks? Why not use solvent inks?
> > Take the ink for permanent markers known to work with pcbs.
> > Maybe dilute with alcohol.
> > I think the epson are alcohol based??
>
> The issue here is that I am in the US and cannot find any of the
> Staedler Refill Stations. Maybe if there was a way to remove the

> from the pens themselves?
>
> What I am wondering if solvent inks are oil inks?
>
> Thanks,
> Genaro M.

> Where to find data on epson(and other) heads and
> inks?

> Stefan, Not to disagree with you, but I recently experimented with
> Epson 1520 which isa piezo printer and the printer doesn't like
> anything different than original Epson printer. After using an
> aftermarket ink the printer died and the printhead smoked (!)

> Quite possible. I am using this opportunity to warn averybody against
> buying an Epson 1520. It is a royal junk printer that has problems
> printing on paper. Piece of $it if you ask me. I will also advise
> everybody against buying a bulk feed system and I will advice against
> morons like owners of www.posjet.com who claim an imagesetter
> quality. Their ink dries out in the bottle. PCB printing is a nirvana
> for a hobby market. Mike

> Epson printheads are "solvent" but the solvent is alcohol. As
> discussed here and on the Epson printers list, one big problem with
> other solvents is they may attack other parts of the printhead like
> the plastic leading up to the piezo heads.

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>

> > Stefan, Not to disagree with you, but I recently experimented

> > Epson 1520 which isa piezo printer and the printer doesn't like
> > anything different than original Epson printer. After using an
> > aftermarket ink the printer died and the printhead smoked (!)
>
> If the printhead blew magic smoke, that is going to be due to ink
> leaking into the electronics.
>
> I run a 3rd party pigmented ink in a 1520 for Tshirt imprinting.

> of thousands at least use 3rd party dye and pigmented and dye sub
> inkjet inks in Epson printers. They do tend to be touchier with non
> dye inks.
>
> Epson printheads are "solvent" but the solvent is alcohol. As
> discussed here and on the Epson printers list, one big problem with
> other solvents is they may attack other parts of the printhead like
> the plastic leading up to the piezo heads.
>
> Steve
>
> > I'will remind that my experience with floor wax killed few

> > The feeding of PCB is easy the problem si the ink. I suggest that

> > printer that has a printhead with the cartridge is better because

> I found out that Sharpie pens are alcohol-based, however, these pens
> are susceptable to drying out without the cap. Would the print sponge
> pad be enough of a "cap" to prevent this?

>
> Secondly, anyone here happen to know the compoistion of Staedtler Red
> Lumocolor Permanent Pens? I understand that they are dry-proof, but I
> wonder what is based of.

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "gmanca101" <gmanca101@y...>
> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> > <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> > > Why use oil-inks? Why not use solvent inks?
> > > Take the ink for permanent markers known to work with pcbs.
> > > Maybe dilute with alcohol.
> > > I think the epson are alcohol based??
> >
> > The issue here is that I am in the US and cannot find any of the
> > Staedler Refill Stations. Maybe if there was a way to remove the
> ink
> > from the pens themselves?
> >
> > What I am wondering if solvent inks are oil inks?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Genaro M.
>
> Hi Genaro,
>
> machinests use a metal blue paint for marking steel. Dykem is the
> brand name and it cost less than $10.00 per 0.118 liters.
>
> I was going to offer that in ounces, but I'm not sure if you would
> prefer US ounce, or UK ounces.
>
> I figured tablespoons might work well, but then it could be US
> tablespoons, UK tablespoons or metric tablespoons...
>
> Maybe quarts ? nope, UK or Anchent Hebrew quarts, German quarts

----- Original Message -----

> Hi ! I read from an old issue of radio electronics one of the ways they
> used shellac in preparing PCB's. They first dyed the stuff so that it
> would be visible when applied. Then, they loaded the thing into a
> technical drawing pen and used that to directly apply the shellac as an
> etch resist onto the blank pcb.
>
> Jobet

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jobet Claudio" <jobetclaudio@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Piezo Print Heads and Oil Based Inks


> Hi ! I read from an old issue of radio electronics one of the ways they
used shellac in preparing PCB's. They first dyed the stuff so that it would
be visible when applied. Then, they loaded the thing into a technical
drawing pen and used that to directly apply the shellac as an etch resist
onto the blank pcb.

Nail varnish is supposed to work quite well, also.

Leon

> Nail varnish is supposed to work quite well, also.
>
> Leon

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Piezo Print Heads and Oil Based Inks


> On Mon, 10 May 2004 22:35:29 +0800, Jobet Claudio
> <jobetclaudio@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi ! I read from an old issue of radio electronics one of the ways they
> > used shellac in preparing PCB's. They first dyed the stuff so that it
> > would be visible when applied. Then, they loaded the thing into a
> > technical drawing pen and used that to directly apply the shellac as an
> > etch resist onto the blank pcb.
> >
> > Jobet
>
>
> I'm suspicious towards shellac.
> I admit i have never seen it in solved state, but it somehow is linked
> to a "sticky" image.
> Please keep in mind that in the past it was a much more popular stuff than
> it
> is today, maybe because there was no better ink around. After all we
> *have* resist
> pens now, and do not longer fill schellac into drawing pens.
>
> I tried colophony solved in alcohol in a plotter pen once. sticky mess.
> not sure if schellac is that sticky or not.

Shellac should be OK, it's quite hard when it dries. It was used for
varnishing wood a long time ago, and for 'french polishing'.

Leon

> Shellac should be OK, it's quite hard when it dries. It was used for
> varnishing wood a long time ago, and for 'french polishing'.
>
> Leon
>

> Is it really a question of either? each has their appropriate
> applications. I think the tweezers are good for 1206/805/603 but not
> so good for soics and bigger. Hot air with the appropriate nozzle
> can do just about anything soic and up.
>

> I see a lot of hakko 850b clones on ebay for 130-160. does anyone
> have this station? Is this a reasonably good product? any
> experieces with it would be appreciated.

> I see a lot of hakko 850b clones on ebay for 130-160. does anyone
> have this station? Is this a reasonably good product? any
> experieces with it would be appreciated.
>
> Phil

> I see a lot of hakko 850b clones on ebay for
> 130-160. does anyone have this station?

> If all you're changing is caps and resistors you can do it with a plain
> soldering iron easily enough. You can remove sot-23 parts too but it's
> a little trickier.
>
> Paul Davs
>

> You just heat one side up until the solder melts, then heat the other
> side but leave the heat on for an extra half second then heat the other
> pad and push of the part with the iron. The important thing is to have
> a clean iron tip and to get as much of the iron on the pad as possible
> so that you get good heat transfer. Until you get skilled at it you may
> have to move the iron from pad to pad a few extra times. if you have
> problems just add some extra solder to one side as it'll help to contain
> the heat longer. it's also easier with 60/40 rather that 63/37
> solder. You won't rip contacts as long as both sides are still liquid.
> just don't force it. done right the part will slide right off.
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "mpdickens" <md30022@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hot stations: Hakko and clones...


>
> --- Phil <phil1960us@...> wrote:
> > I see a lot of hakko 850b clones on ebay for
> > 130-160. does anyone have this station?
>
> If you can find a Pace that was made in the last 10
> years, buy it. No other rework station even comes
> close to the over all dependability or ease of
> reproducable results that a Pace gives.

Metcal equipment is much better, IMHO. It's very expensive new, but often
available at reasonable prices on eBay.

Leon

> Metcal equipment is much better, IMHO. It's very
> expensive new, but often
> available at reasonable prices on eBay.

> keeps it forever or until it dies from old age. The
> same thing can be said gear made by ERSA (Out of
> Germany. They invented and patented the first
> soldering iron in the 1920's). Everybody that owns an
> ERSA keeps it forever.
>

> bought a stylus pro.
>
> Will take a few days until i have it, then i let you know what it does.
>
>
> is it safe to use alcohol to clean the head?
> I have no windex and the ammonia i have was no much good with the hp
> printer.