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What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

2016-12-27 by Rob

RE:
For double-sided, toner transfer is a pain as well.  If you want double-sided. get 0.8mm boards, print each side and glue them together.


What kind of glue sticks PCB together?
Some glues unstick when hit with heat so I'm wondering what soldering heat will do to the glue.
When I say soldering I mean with a soldering iron for through hole parts....
not wave soldering or SMT oven soldering.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

2016-12-27 by Harvey White

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 04:50:04 -0500, you wrote:

>RE:
>For double-sided, toner transfer is a pain as well. If you want
>double-sided. get 0.8mm boards, print each side and glue them together.

I do that.
>
>
>What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

I've tried carpet tape, which works, but it's difficult to align
properly.

>Some glues unstick when hit with heat so I'm wondering what soldering
>heat will do to the glue.

Epoxy. Standard epoxy, the longer the setting time the better, unless
you do only one board at a time. My favorite is 1 hour epoxy. Hard
to find though. Half hour would be good. You can generally get at
least 6 or 7 boards done in about 20 minutes, all depending.

>When I say soldering I mean with a soldering iron for through hole parts....
>not wave soldering or SMT oven soldering.

Haven't done SMT oven soldering or wave soldering, but through hole
and SMT parts have no problem, ditto with desoldering, either hot air
or special soldering iron. Your problem would be more the pad lifting
off rather than the board delaminating.

Harvey

Re: What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

2016-12-27 by mosaicmerc@...

I will not be gluing PCBs together to make them  double sided. I do UHF level PCB design and the inter layer capacitance and properties (permittivity) of the PCB must be consistent and known in order to establish distributed capacitance and inductance filter stubs when designing boards with low VSWR properties.

If you're under 100Mhz or so on the PCB and using lumped capacitance and inductance design, you can probably get away with that type of multilayer hack.

The precision laminator approach is the only one that can accomplish this for me at the signal speeds I use.

Besides, after you print a fill on the direct to copper laser print. Don't u still have to foil it to prevent pitting with a laminator?

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

2016-12-27 by Tony Smith

I used to use epoxy, but I went to double-sided tape.

You can buy A4 (12"x10"-ish) sheets of it, or if you look in
scrapbook/craft/junk places you can get rolls of tape up to 48mm wide that
work well. (Go for a visit anyway, sometimes they have interesting stuff.)
It's very thin. Cheap too, I've a 48mm x 10 metre roll here that cost me
$2.

Holds up fine, won't come apart especially if you are doing the 'solder both
sides for vias' thing.

I hold the boards up to the light, clamp them, drill a hole in the corner,
check for slippage, put a pin/nail/drill bit/etc through the hole I just
drilled (tight fit!), do the opposite corner. These are in existing holes,
usually for the screws.

Stick the tape onto one board, trim with a knife.

Take off the backing off the tape, put in the pins, put it on the bench,
carefully lower the top board onto it. Put a weight on it to make sure it
sticks.

If you want to be a little more careful drill a hole at each corner, a pin
in each.

A tip I picked up from an old school board maker is to bang those
registration pins into a board. Not only does it hold the board, but if
you're doing a bunch you can stack them high and drill them all at once.

Tony

(Been a while since I've done one of those.)


> >RE:
> >For double-sided, toner transfer is a pain as well. If you want
> >double-sided. get 0.8mm boards, print each side and glue them together.
>
> I do that.
> >
> >
> >What kind of glue sticks PCB together?
>
> I've tried carpet tape, which works, but it's difficult to align properly.
>
> >Some glues unstick when hit with heat so I'm wondering what soldering
> >heat will do to the glue.
>
> Epoxy. Standard epoxy, the longer the setting time the better, unless you
do
> only one board at a time. My favorite is 1 hour epoxy. Hard to find
though.
> Half hour would be good. You can generally get at least 6 or 7 boards
done in
> about 20 minutes, all depending.
>
> >When I say soldering I mean with a soldering iron for through hole
parts....
> >not wave soldering or SMT oven soldering.
>
> Haven't done SMT oven soldering or wave soldering, but through hole and
SMT
> parts have no problem, ditto with desoldering, either hot air or special
soldering
> iron. Your problem would be more the pad lifting off rather than the
board
> delaminating.
>
> Harvey
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

2016-12-27 by Tony Smith

And you’re the <1% who’d be better off getting 4-layer boards made rather than doing home-brew.

 

The rest of us are just trying to blink LEDs or something.

 

Tony

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 28 December 2016 2:39 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: What kind of glue sticks PCB together?

 

I will not be gluing PCBs together to make them  double sided. I do UHF level PCB design and the inter layer capacitance and properties (permittivity) of the PCB must be consistent and known in order to establish distributed capacitance and inductance filter stubs when designing boards with low VSWR properties.

If you're under 100Mhz or so on the PCB and using lumped capacitance and inductance design, you can probably get away with that type of multilayer hack.

The precision laminator approach is the only one that can accomplish this for me at the signal speeds I use.

Besides, after you print a fill on the direct to copper laser print. Don't u still have to foil it to prevent pitting with a laminator?