Homebrew PCBs

I used to use epoxy, but I went to double-sided tape.

You can buy A4 (12"x10"-ish) sheets of it, or if you look in
scrapbook/craft/junk places you can get rolls of tape up to 48mm wide that
work well.  (Go for a visit anyway, sometimes they have interesting stuff.)
It's very thin.  Cheap too, I've a 48mm x 10 metre roll here that cost me
$2.

Holds up fine, won't come apart especially if you are doing the 'solder both
sides for vias' thing.

I hold the boards up to the light, clamp them, drill a hole in the corner,
check for slippage, put a pin/nail/drill bit/etc through the hole I just
drilled (tight fit!), do the opposite corner.  These are in existing holes,
usually for the screws.

Stick the tape onto one board, trim with a knife.

Take off the backing off the tape, put in the pins, put it on the bench,
carefully lower the top board onto it.  Put a weight on it to make sure it
sticks.

If you want to be a little more careful drill a hole at each corner, a pin
in each.

A tip I picked up from an old school board maker is to bang those
registration pins into a board.  Not only does it hold the board, but if
you're doing a bunch you can stack them high and drill them all at once.

Tony

(Been a while since I've done one of those.)


> >RE:
> >For double-sided, toner transfer is a pain as well.  If you want
> >double-sided. get 0.8mm boards, print each side and glue them together.
> 
> I do that.
> >
> >
> >What kind of glue sticks PCB together?
> 
> I've tried carpet tape, which works, but it's difficult to align properly.
> 
> >Some glues unstick when hit with heat so I'm wondering what soldering
> >heat will do to the glue.
> 
> Epoxy.  Standard epoxy, the longer the setting time the better, unless you
do
> only one board at a time.  My favorite is 1 hour epoxy.  Hard to find
though.
> Half hour would be good.  You can generally get at least 6 or 7 boards
done in
> about 20 minutes, all depending.
> 
> >When I say soldering I mean with a soldering iron for through hole
parts....
> >not wave soldering or SMT oven soldering.
> 
> Haven't done SMT oven soldering or wave soldering, but through hole and
SMT
> parts have no problem, ditto with desoldering, either hot air or special
soldering
> iron.  Your problem would be more the pad lifting off rather than the
board
> delaminating.
> 
> Harvey
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
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