Homebrew_PCBs

 While I can find resharpened carbide bits, those cheap, bench drill presses tend to have too much runout. They also run too slow for carbide.  As a result carbide bits tend to break.

I prefer to use high speed steel bits. They don't break.  They do wear quickly, but I can finish a typical board with just one bit.  My preferred size is 1/32 (.032) inch as these tend to cost less than numbered bits. Places like Enco sell these at 65 cents a piece in lots of a dozen plus postage, of course.

Looking for a local, and lower cost supply, I looked to Harbor Freight.   They sell a 30 piece drill bit set for $3.99. The set is metric sized, but very useful.  Converted to inches the set includes five each of .020, .024, ,031; three size .039; and two each of .047, .059, .071, .079, .093 and 118.

For circuit board work, the 18 bits less than .040 size are a bargain at 22 cents each.

 In keeping with the K7QO experimental mindset, I'll buy some tomorrow and report back.

bob-N7SUR

I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 00:36:34 -0400, you wrote:

>I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
>work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
>but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.

The Dremel has enough runout that the bit wobbles and, as you noticed,
breaks.

I use a Proxxon, and have drilled hundreds of holes with the same bit
(it goes dull eventually) and have not broken a bit due to wobble.

I did use a Dremel, and that was insufficient.

Harvey

Would a Proxxon like this fit the Dremel Press?
Ebay # 121708044834

Is that a serious question?
Do you really think they make the tools interchangeable?

I would not go for this proxxon model, it is the worst of the lot
because it comes with a jacobs type chuck rather than collets.
You can buy the hardened steel collets separately, but I don't know if
the unit is then as good in terms of runout as the others.

Instead I would recommend one of the following:
<http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28481.php?list>
<http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28485.php?list>
<http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28440.php?list>
(Note that these are 230V models and you might have to find the 115V version).


Even the 12V Micromot units are easily powerful enough for PCB
drilling, and generally less than half the cost.
<http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28500.php?list>
<http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28512.php?list>

I have a separate 12V micromot in the PCB drill press, because I got
tired of taking out the IB/E to use it for other tasks.

ST

On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 11:54 AM, AncelB mosaicmerc@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Would a Proxxon like this fit the Dremel Press?
> Ebay # 121708044834
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: AncelB <mosaicmerc@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Just in case you didn't know.....
Proxxon makes a separate drill press tool for the IB/E
PROXXON - MB 140/S

 

"AncelB mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"

> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
> work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
> but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.

Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew drill
stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.

My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.

Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important than
runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
breakage?

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 13:05:41 -0500, you wrote:

>
>"AncelB mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
>> work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
>> but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.
>
>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew drill
>stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.

So does mine, so that's a big help.

>
>My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
>Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.
>

I happen to use a Proxxon 12 volt tool in my drill. The bearings and
collet are far better than Dremel. That said, I do use a dremel, but
not for drilling precise holes.

>Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important than
>runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
>breakage?

Lack of rigidity in mounting the tool is likely the number one cause
of disaster (get a 1/8 inch high speed bit to wobbling and it will eat
a 3/8 inch irregular hole in PC board.... don't ask how I know
this...)

Once that's taken care of, the next problem will be runout on the
drill itself (notably the chuck and bearings). While this is likely
to break smaller drills (say as a guess #70 and above), the most
likely consequence in my opinion is a lack of precision in the actual
hole location. Less of a problem if you have a donut pad with a clear
hole to guide the drill.

I've not had a problem that I could attribute to the drill bit itself,
other than dull.

Oh, and my "drill" holder is on a set of reasonably high quality (not
cabinet drawer pulls) linear bearings, so that does make a substantial
difference.


Harvey

What is a Grizzly pencil style grinder?  

Do you use it to mill?

I have not been able to get good results with milling.   I think I might need to try leveling software.   For now I will be happy to just have the CNC  drill holes.   That is the hard part of the job.

I had horrible issues with run out.   I sent my drill back to Dremel and they fixed it under warranty.    I have not had a chance to try it.

My cheap CNC drills really accurate holes.

>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew

drill
stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.

>My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and

a
Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.

>Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important

than
runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
breakage?

>Posted by: DJ Delorie <

href="mailto:dj@...">dj@...>

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 20:21:52 +0000, you wrote:

> "AncelB mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
>> work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
>> but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.
>
>>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew drill
>stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.
>
>>My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
>Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.
>
>>Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important than
>runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
>breakage?
>
>>Posted by: DJ Delorie <dj@...>
>
>I purchased a drill stand from Sears quite a few years ago. It
>had run-out, but I cured that by tightening/adjusting all the
>critical screws that caused the run-out. Works just fine since
>then, and no breakage of carbide drill bits either. I'm using
>a Dremmel with the collets, mostly the 1/8" size. I gotta say
>though that the stand sure is CHEAPLY made....lots of plastic
>parts. Once when using the stand, the sector gear that raises/lowers
>the drill carriage broke!! (Cheap plastic!!!) I made another gear out
>of some thick aluminum and it's been good ever since.
>
>My bigest problem is positioning the PC board on the exact
>center of the pads. My drilling is close but most of the time not
>dead-on especially if the pad's center holes don't get etched
>away. I installed a 12v light bulb under the stand and
>that helps to illuminate the pad locations, but still.....

You're looking at parallax as a problem. You're not looking straight
down on where the hole should be.

One option would be to put a webcam under the board, illuminate the
bottom, and drill from there. Your only problem would be the swarf
from the board.

Mine is upside down, with the camera above and the drill from the
bottom. It's a bit more complicated mechanically, and involves some
programming and a stepper motor.

However, a top drill press with a bottom view (and a vacuum sucking
off the swarf) would be a possible good idea.

You drill from the side where the pads are.

A good set of movable crosshairs (if there's any play) and a test hole
when the drill is changed ought to get you very very close.

Harvey

>
>On my drill stand I made a larger platform out of some
>1/8" smooth hardboard so I could use a homebrew
>moveable fence that clamps to the edges of the hardboard.
>Using that sure made drilling easy when I needed to neatly drill
>holes in a row like for IC's.
>
>Charlie

>
>On my drill stand I made a larger platform out of

some

>1/8" smooth hardboard so I could use a homebrew
>moveable

fence that clamps to the edges of the hardboard.

>Using that sure made

drilling easy when I needed to neatly drill

>holes in a row like for

IC's.

>
>Charlie

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:02:26 +0000, you wrote:

>Thanks for the advice Harvey...I'll look into the methods
>you suggested.

I have a very quiet vacuum, so it is on all the time with an air scoop
to remove the board swarf.

>
>Yeah, the swarf from the board is a problem...have a vacuum
>at hand, but some kind of automatic "vac as you go" method
>would be best.

I have a very crude (but quite workable) air scoop made from the
crevice tool of a regular vacuum. Works surprisingly well.

You can get very very close with a vertical alignment drill press, and
not so close when you have to match the hole at an extreme angle.

Harvey

>
>Charlie
>
>mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
>>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
>>> work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
>>> but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.
>>
>>>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew drill
>>stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.
>>
>>>My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
>>Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.
>>
>>>Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important than
>>runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
>>breakage?
>>
>>>Posted by: DJ Delorie <dj@...>
>>
>>I purchased a drill stand from Sears quite a few years ago. It
>>had run-out, but I cured that by tightening/adjusting all the
>>critical screws that caused the run-out. Works just fine since
>>then, and no breakage of carbide drill bits either. I'm using
>>a Dremmel with the collets, mostly the 1/8" size. I gotta say
>>though that the stand sure is CHEAPLY made....lots of plastic
>>parts. Once when using the stand, the sector gear that raises/lowers
>>the drill carriage broke!! (Cheap plastic!!!) I made another gear out
>>of some thick aluminum and it's been good ever since.
>>
>>My bigest problem is positioning the PC board on the exact
>>center of the pads. My drilling is close but most of the time not
>>dead-on especially if the pad's center holes don't get etched
>>away. I installed a 12v light bulb under the stand and
>>that helps to illuminate the pad locations, but still.....
>
>You're looking at parallax as a problem. You're not looking straight
>down on where the hole should be.
>
>One option would be to put a webcam under the board, illuminate the
>bottom, and drill from there. Your only problem would be the swarf
>from the board.
>
>Mine is upside down, with the camera above and the drill from the
>bottom. It's a bit more complicated mechanically, and involves some
>programming and a stepper motor.
>
>However, a top drill press with a bottom view (and a vacuum sucking
>off the swarf) would be a possible good idea.
>
>You drill from the side where the pads are.
>
>A good set of movable crosshairs (if there's any play) and a test hole
>when the drill is changed ought to get you very very close.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>On my drill stand I made a larger platform out of some
>>1/8" smooth hardboard so I could use a homebrew
>>moveable fence that clamps to the edges of the hardboard.
>>Using that sure made drilling easy when I needed to neatly drill
>>holes in a row like for IC's.
>>
>>Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------
>Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------
>
>Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New
>Topic • Messages in this topic (13)
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Visit Your Group New Members 2
> • Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use
>
>.
>
>

While not exactly "on the cheap", I think my
modified version of Harvey's "solution" is very
cost effective.
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Motorized-Plunge-PCB-Drill-Using-a-USB-Microscope/>.
It uses a USB microscope to be sure the drill is
placed correctly. It can be built for
approximately $100 USD, including the drill.

Mark







At 07:22 PM 2/15/2016, you wrote:

>On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:02:26 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Thanks for the advice Harvey...I'll look into the methods
> >you suggested.
>
>I have a very quiet vacuum, so it is on all the time with an air scoop
>to remove the board swarf.
>
>
> >
> >Yeah, the swarf from the board is a problem...have a vacuum
> >at hand, but some kind of automatic "vac as you go" method
> >would be best.
>
>I have a very crude (but quite workable) air scoop made from the
>crevice tool of a regular vacuum. Works surprisingly well.
>
>You can get very very close with a vertical alignment drill press, and
>not so close when you have to match the hole at an extreme angle.
>
>Harvey
>
>
> >
> >Charlie
> >
> >mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
> >>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with 1/8" shanks for PCB
> >>> work. They work fine....I go down to around 0.31 mm. I can go smaller
> >>> but bit breaking happens every 10 holes or so.
> >>
> >>>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I switched to a home-brew drill
> >>stand that seems to eliminate any "hand wobble" from causing breakage.
> >>
> >>>My CNC machine can drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
> >>Grizzly pencil-style die grinder.
> >>
> >>>Perhaps rigidity in the holding of the dremel is more important than
> >>runout? Or at least, *lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
> >>breakage?
> >>
> >>>Posted by: DJ Delorie <dj@...>
> >>
> >>I purchased a drill stand from Sears quite a few years ago. It
> >>had run-out, but I cured that by tightening/adjusting all the
> >>critical screws that caused the run-out. Works just fine since
> >>then, and no breakage of carbide drill bits either. I'm using
> >>a Dremmel with the collets, mostly the 1/8" size. I gotta say
> >>though that the stand sure is CHEAPLY made....lots of plastic
> >>parts. Once when using the stand, the sector gear that raises/lowers
> >>the drill carriage broke!! (Cheap plastic!!!) I made another gear out
> >>of some thick aluminum and it's been good ever since.
> >>
> >>My bigest problem is positioning the PC board on the exact
> >>center of the pads. My drilling is close but most of the time not
> >>dead-on especially if the pad's center holes don't get etched
> >>away. I installed a 12v light bulb under the stand and
> >>that helps to illuminate the pad locations, but still.....
> >
> >You're looking at parallax as a problem. You're not looking straight
> >down on where the hole should be.
> >
> >One option would be to put a webcam under the board, illuminate the
> >bottom, and drill from there. Your only problem would be the swarf
> >from the board.
> >
> >Mine is upside down, with the camera above and the drill from the
> >bottom. It's a bit more complicated mechanically, and involves some
> >programming and a stepper motor.
> >
> >However, a top drill press with a bottom view (and a vacuum sucking
> >off the swarf) would be a possible good idea.
> >
> >You drill from the side where the pads are.
> >
> >A good set of movable crosshairs (if there's any play) and a test hole
> >when the drill is changed ought to get you very very close.
> >
> >Harvey
> >
> >>
> >>On my drill stand I made a larger platform out of some
> >>1/8" smooth hardboard so I could use a homebrew
> >>moveable fence that clamps to the edges of the hardboard.
> >>Using that sure made drilling easy when I needed to neatly drill
> >>holes in a row like for IC's.
> >>
> >>Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >-------
> >Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >-------
> >
> >Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New
> >Topic • Messages in this topic (13)
> >
> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >Photos:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >Visit Your Group New Members 2
> > • Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use
> >
> >.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

"me@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
writes:

> What is a Grizzly pencil style grinder?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Micro-Air-Grinder-17-pc-Kit/H8212
http://www.delorie.com/photos/cnc/img_2604.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR1y6Eq19EU

> Do you use it to mill?

I don't mill PCBs, I use UV film. The CNC machine also has a holder for
my Port-Cable router motor so I can mill wood :-)

I *can* use a milling bit to cut out the outline of a pcb:

http://www.delorie.com/photos/cnc/127-63-disk.html

http://www.delorie.com/photos/cnc/

>Thanks for the advice Harvey...I'll look into the methods
>you

suggested.

>I have a very quiet vacuum, so it is on all the time with an air

scoop
to remove the board swarf.

>
>Yeah, the swarf from the board is a problem...have a

vacuum

>at hand, but some kind of automatic "vac as you go"

method

>would be best.

>
>Charlie
>
>mosaicmerc@...

[Homebrew_PCBs]"

>>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with

1/8" shanks for PCB

>>> work. They work fine....I go down to around

0.31 mm. I can go smaller

>>> but bit breaking happens every 10

holes or so.

>>
>>>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I

switched to a home-brew drill

>>stand that seems to eliminate any "hand

wobble" from causing breakage.

>>
>>>My CNC machine can

drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a

>>Grizzly

pencil-style die grinder.

>>
>>>Perhaps rigidity in the

holding of the dremel is more important than

>>runout? Or at least,

*lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of

>>breakage?
>>
>>>Posted by: DJ Delorie <

href="mailto:dj@...">dj@...>

>>
>>I

purchased a drill stand from Sears quite a few years ago. It

>>had

run-out, but I cured that by tightening/adjusting all the

>>critical

screws that caused the run-out. Works just fine since

>>then, and no

breakage of carbide drill bits either. I'm using

>>a Dremmel with the

collets, mostly the 1/8" size. I gotta say

>>though that the stand sure

is CHEAPLY made....lots of plastic

>>parts. Once when using the stand,

the sector gear that raises/lowers

>>the drill carriage broke!! (Cheap

plastic!!!) I made another gear out

>>of some thick aluminum and it's

been good ever since.

>>
>>My bigest problem is positioning

the PC board on the exact

>>center of the pads. My drilling is close

but most of the time not

>>dead-on especially if the pad's center holes

don't get etched

>>away. I installed a 12v light bulb under the stand

and

>>that helps to illuminate the pad locations, but

still.....

>
>You're looking at parallax as a problem. You're not

looking straight

>down on where the hole should be.
>
>One

option would be to put a webcam under the board, illuminate the

>bottom,

and drill from there. Your only problem would be the swarf

>from the

board.

>
>Mine is upside down, with the camera above and the drill

from the

>bottom. It's a bit more complicated mechanically, and involves

some

>programming and a stepper motor.
>
>However, a top drill

press with a bottom view (and a vacuum sucking

>off the swarf) would be a

possible good idea.

>
>You drill from the side where the pads are.
>
>A good set of movable crosshairs (if there's any play) and a

test hole

>when the drill is changed ought to get you very very

close.

>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>On my drill stand I

made a larger platform out of some

>>1/8" smooth hardboard so I could

use a homebrew

>>moveable fence that clamps to the edges of the

hardboard.

>>Using that sure made drilling easy when I needed to

neatly drill

>>holes in a row like for IC's.
>>
>>Charlie
>
>

I use a 395 Dremel, which has workable 'runout' and is more robust.
I don't use it for side cutting tiles etc. to wear the bearings. I do
use it with cutoff blades for machine screws or scoring PCBs.
The problem is with the Dremel press wobble.

Anyhow I ordered the FBS115 Proxxon tool, mini machine vise, and
matched CNC machined press as a 'upgrade' . I have the x-y table on
hand already, to do a bit of slotting for RF PCBs or SPADE connector
slotting as required.
The dremel will get used for the cutoff blades or the > 1.2mm holes.

I got a 4" table saw with a diamond blade that rips through PCBs (1/16"
blade) and dumps the dust at the bottom.
The solution with fine dust is to wet the PCB before drilling/cutting;
lowers wear on the bits as well. A vaseline wipe works as well and
evaporates during soldering.
I back light the PCB with a pair of hi brightness white LEDs before
drilling. No missed holes or vias as I etch the donuts.
I also donut pad the 6-32 machine screw holes to centre punch with a 1mm
drill before the 3mm.

I did try laser cutting/drilling FR1 phenolic but it carbonizes and
requires multiple low power passes.

This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:52:19 -0500, you wrote:

>A friend of mine used to use something called a unimat to drill his boards. It was belt drive,but also converted into a lathe. I borrowed it when I did some boards a long time ago
>

It's very precise, a combination of lathe, drill press, and almost
anything else. It's also quite expensive since it is a collector's
item at this point.

Its weak point is also the strong point, versatility. However, every
setup needs to be squared and trued. It has minimal capacity, but can
do beautiful work when properly adjusted.

The belts have limited life and are somewhat annoying to find
replacements for.

It can be a very high speed drill press, about 15K RPM IIRC.


Harvey

>
>
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:58 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap: [1 Attachment]
>
>
>
>
>
>This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.
>
>

Purchased at a Ham Radio swap&shop. I drilled the eye out of a Lincoln penny with it once.
attached a photo of holes drilled with a #64 bit. The 64 bit gives a 64 hole. Same bit in a Dremel makes a hole half again bigger. 

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 21:28:47 -0500, you wrote:

>I have used O rings for belts they can work in a pinch

The problem I've had with them is that they expand at higher speeds
and fly off the drive pulleys. (or almost)

The original plastic belts are available through McMaster (or at
least, a substitute). However, I don't remember the exact size.

That, however, is a project for later, I have enough to do right
now...

Harvey

>
>
>
>
>
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 8:48 PM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Cc: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap:
>
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:52:19 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>A friend of mine used to use something called a unimat to drill his boards.
>It was belt drive,but also converted into a lathe. I borrowed it when I did
>some boards a long time ago
>>
>
>It's very precise, a combination of lathe, drill press, and almost
>anything else. It's also quite expensive since it is a collector's
>item at this point.
>
>Its weak point is also the strong point, versatility. However, every
>setup needs to be squared and trued. It has minimal capacity, but can
>do beautiful work when properly adjusted.
>
>The belts have limited life and are somewhat annoying to find
>replacements for.
>
>It can be a very high speed drill press, about 15K RPM IIRC.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>
>>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:58 AM
>>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap: [1
>Attachment]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half
>throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is
>no information available for it.
>>
>>
>
>

Once I saw an ad for a used lathe, with an Unimat sitting on top of the ways.
The seller had no idea that the Unimat was not part of the larger
lathe. At 250eur the large lathe would have been cheap, and I could
have sold the Unimat to get my money back, but as always happens it
was already taken when I saw it....

Otherwise not affordable at all, even in Austria, where they were made.

ST

On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 2:47 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:52:19 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>A friend of mine used to use something called a unimat to drill his boards. It was belt drive,but also converted into a lathe. I borrowed it when I did some boards a long time ago
>>
>
> It's very precise, a combination of lathe, drill press, and almost
> anything else. It's also quite expensive since it is a collector's
> item at this point.
>
> Its weak point is also the strong point, versatility. However, every
> setup needs to be squared and trued. It has minimal capacity, but can
> do beautiful work when properly adjusted.
>
> The belts have limited life and are somewhat annoying to find
> replacements for.
>
> It can be a very high speed drill press, about 15K RPM IIRC.
>
>
> Harvey
>
>
>>
>>
>>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:58 AM
>>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap: [1 Attachment]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Before a friend ham wanted to throw it to the scrapyard, I could get a hold on it. The needed trafos for the spindle motor and the bulbs were just hanging around so I made an aluminum case to hold them. The spindle height lever automatically switches the spindle on as soon as lowered. May be someone gets some ideas to make his own.

Jean-Claude, HB3YDH

 

This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.

Jean-Claude

Thank you for your kind comments. Must go and use it for an add on PCB I am making to add feedback to a cheap ebay triac lamp dimmer so that the motor speed does not vary with load. Drives either permanent magnet DC or universal motors. 2 diodes, two resistors, a capacitor and a pot is all that is needed.
I will add it to YouTube when finished.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 2/17/16, 'casy_ch@...' casy_ch@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap:
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, February 17, 2016, 3:05 PM


 












Congratulation Malcom for this extended work. Really
nice.



Jean-Claude



Am
17.02.2016 um 15:21 schrieb Malcolm
Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@...
[Homebrew_PCBs]:


 


That is very simillar to the one I made,
see:

<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhlRkO0EcFo>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhlRkO0EcFo



Malcolm



I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!


Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin

The writing is on the wall.

Ha-ktovet al ha-kir




--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 2/17/16, 'casy_ch@...'
casy_ch@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling
circuit boards
on the cheap: [3 Attachments]

To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

Date: Wednesday, February 17, 2016, 9:21 AM





Before a friend ham wanted to throw it to the
scrapyard,

I could get

a hold on it. The needed trafos for the
spindle motor

and the bulbs

were just hanging around so I made an aluminum
case to

hold them.

The spindle height lever automatically
switches the

spindle on as

soon as lowered. May be someone gets some
ideas to make

his own.







Jean-Claude, HB3YDH
























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on eBay, you can find nylon wire specifically made for belt building. Choose a 5mm dia, green color this the best one for the Unimat lathes. It doesn't expand like the genuine rubber ones do.

Follow this URL, it's a typical example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-meter-green-Watchmaker-Lathe-Transmission-Belt-/321156538194?var=&hash=item4ac66bdf52:m:mkPRJr72969WaERlVx3rWrw

Cut a length compatible with your pulley set plus 1 mm. It's preferable to measure on the lathe than to copy a broken belt. Melt the ends together with a small flat metal piece mounted into a soldering iron. I made one from a stainless steel broken knife and I'm using an old 100W soldering iron. 60W might be enough.

Put it in between the two ends of the nylon wire, gently pressing them together and when a small ridge begins to grow, remove quickly the hot metal tip, pushing the ends together, maintaining the pressure between the two ends during 20 to 30 s. With a little bit of practice, you'll be able to perfectly align the ends. When done, cut the ridge and file it or sand it.

I've been using these home-made belts for years, not only for the lathe and I had only one failed, the first belt I made. The iron was probably not hot enough. I repaired it, Still alive !

Now I've hacked a pliers to deal with several diameters and ease the job.

 

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:52:19 -0500, you wrote:

>A friend of mine used to use something called a unimat to drill his boards. It was belt drive,but also converted into a lathe. I borrowed it when I did some boards a long time ago
>

It's very precise, a combination of lathe, drill press, and almost
anything else. It's also quite expensive since it is a collector's
item at this point.

Its weak point is also the strong point, versatility. However, every
setup needs to be squared and trued. It has minimal capacity, but can
do beautiful work when properly adjusted.

The belts have limited life and are somewhat annoying to find
replacements for.

It can be a very high speed drill press, about 15K RPM IIRC.

Harvey

>
>
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:58 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap: [1 Attachment]
>
>
>
>
>
>This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.
>
>

The color seems to be related to the material the belt is made of but this seems as well to be changing from one manufacturer to the other one !
Some years ago, I browsed the net and the result was rather misleading. About the Chinese belt, I think that there are not so numerous manufacturers to make it and the green one with a rough surface is sold for that use. I'm satisfied with it, My opinion is that you can go safely with it.
I'm quite embarrassed to give it a name ! Sellers are saying "belt sold per meter".

This belt is often listed in the conveyor replacement parts on their catalogs.

Regards

 

Huh, the world is full of things you didn’t know exists.

 

I wanted something like that a few years ago when I needed a custom belt.

 

Does it have an actual name, and does the colour mean anything?

 

Thanks!

 

Tony

 

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, 18 February 2016 9:17 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap:

 

on eBay, you can find nylon wire specifically made for belt building. Choose a 5mm dia, green color this the best one for the Unimat lathes. It doesn't expand like the genuine rubber ones do.

Follow this URL, it's a typical example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-meter-green-Watchmaker-Lathe-Transmission-Belt-/321156538194?var=&hash=item4ac66bdf52:m:mkPRJr72969WaERlVx3rWrw

Cut a length compatible with your pulley set plus 1 mm. It's preferable to measure on the lathe than to copy a broken belt. Melt the ends together with a small flat metal piece mounted into a soldering iron. I made one from a stainless steel broken knife and I'm using an old 100W soldering iron. 60W might be enough.

Put it in between the two ends of the nylon wire, gently pressing them together and when a small ridge begins to grow, remove quickly the hot metal tip, pushing the ends together, maintaining the pressure between the two ends during 20 to 30 s. With a little bit of practice, you'll be able to perfectly align the ends. When done, cut the ridge and file it or sand it.

I've been using these home-made belts for years, not only for the lathe and I had only one failed, the first belt I made. The iron was probably not hot enough. I repaired it, Still alive !

Now I've hacked a pliers to deal with several diameters and ease the job.

On 17.02.16 02:47, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

 

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 19:52:19 -0500, you wrote:

>A friend of mine used to use something called a unimat to drill his boards. It was belt drive,but also converted into a lathe. I borrowed it when I did some boards a long time ago
>

It's very precise, a combination of lathe, drill press, and almost
anything else. It's also quite expensive since it is a collector's
item at this point.

Its weak point is also the strong point, versatility. However, every
setup needs to be squared and trued. It has minimal capacity, but can
do beautiful work when properly adjusted.

The belts have limited life and are somewhat annoying to find
replacements for.

It can be a very high speed drill press, about 15K RPM IIRC.

Harvey

>
>
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:58 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Drilling circuit boards on the cheap: [1 Attachment]
>
>
>
>
>
>This is what I use for small boards. It only has about an inch and a half throat but is very stable. I think it was used by clock makers but there is no information available for it.
>
>

 

I have a miniature Unimat 3 lathe & I put a file together some time ago about using the drive belt material & making the joins

On 22 Feb 2016 10:22:26 -0800, you wrote:

>I have a miniature Unimat 3 lathe & I put a file together some time ago about using the drive belt material & making the joins .

The 3 was (IIRC) a slightly bigger version of the SL with improvements
in the ways.

Have you a link to the file? I'd like to get mine back up and
running. I have a larger one, but I need to do a bit of work on the
motor (belville washers are toast) and naturally, it needs new belts.

I've got an idea how to non-destructively CNC the lathe, which ought
to be interesting.

Although I've got something better for it, the CNC ability could be
used for small panels and etching PC boards.

Harvey

> The Unimat 3 & 4 lathes originally actually just used O Rings for drive belts but users found that high quality belts that last almost for ever can be made from the Polyurethane or Urethane drive belt material that you buy in cut lengths from suppliers. For small applications the O Rings can work fine - they do on the baby lathes - so I gave some details about O Ring sizing but the drive belt material works better & last just about forever.
>While my file was written specifically for the Unimat 3, I gave it a tidy & quick rewrite to make the information less Unimat focused. It is applicable for any custom belt job - especially for small pulleys & belts of the size likely to be used for drills for drilling PCBs.
>
> Regards,
> Brian.
>