Homebrew_PCBs

Back in those days I used two methods:
Copper clad FR4 was available, but a lot of SRBP was used as it was much cheaper.
The first method was to paint, by hand, using mothers thinned nail varnish onto a carbon paper print traced from the layout printout.
There was a great negative photo resist, KPCR, made by Kodak, sadly no longer available that you exposed to ultra violet light through a negative transparency of the of the layout.
Then developed in a solvent based solution that coloured your fingers red for at least a week if you got it on them.

So you would not be cheating if you used modern pre-sensitized copper FR4 from companies such as Mega,
<http://www.megauk.com/pcb_laminates.php>
or a dry film:
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Fantastic-Double-Sided-PCBs-at-home-using-photores/>
or
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRCFGZxmob0>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 9/29/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 2015, 11:51 PM


 









Hi guys,  I’ve been continuing to
research and amass parts for my TV Typewriter replica build.
 I have a blog of it here: http://bradhodge.ca/blog%c2%a0
-- mostly working on the case right now to inspire me to
push forward, but I’ve succeeded in getting almost all of
the vintage 1973 or earlier chips I needed.  Now I’m down
to the PCBs again.
 I guess I’m still
kind of ‘green’ on this sort of thing.  Ideally, I’d
like to do my PCBs the way they would have in 1973.  But I
still don’t understand how that worked.  Don Lancaster
said the boards used were green G-10.  I found this on
ebay:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Green-G-10-FR4-Sheets-032-Thick-x-28-x-7-25-G10-Material-/141719358328?hash=item20ff21cb78  I guess what I’m having trouble
with is understanding how a home PCB maker in 1973 would
have gone about getting copper onto these boards and copying
the artwork from the article.  Is there any really good,
baby-steps reading out there?  I just want to understand
the original process and if it is possible to replicate it
here in 2015.  I sort of understand the idea behind photo
lithography.. I’m just not understanding how copper ends
up on board, etc.  Much appreciated!  BRad    









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On 30/09/2015 00:14, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

> Back in those days I used two methods:
> Copper clad FR4 was available, but a lot of SRBP was used as it was much
> cheaper.

A resist-coated fibre glass and paper composite (FPC 16) is available
from Mega Electronics UK:

http://www.megauk.com/pcb_laminates.php

I used to use it rather than FR4 as it was *much* easier to cut and
drill, as well as being cheaper.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Brad

The simple answer is no. Laser printers did not exist then so toner transfer was not possible. Silk screen materials were available and you could do a screen if you had access to a college art department.

Again you could cheat by doing a colour laser printout thermal transfer. You need some means of aligning the image to the board.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 9/30/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2015, 5:51 AM


 









Thanks muchly Malcolm.  That
makes things a lot clearer.  Question – did you do any
silkscreening back then for parts placement?  I notice in
the plans printed by Radio Electronics, they had the
printouts for the copper side, but also silkscreening for
the non-copper side to aid in parts placement.  I’m
wondering how a home hobbyist at the time might have pulled
that off, or if they did.  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 4:15
PM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
questions    Back in those days I used two
methods:
Copper clad FR4 was available, but
a lot of SRBP was used as it was much cheaper.
The first method was to paint, by hand, using
mothers thinned nail varnish onto a carbon paper print
traced from the layout printout.
There was a
great negative photo resist, KPCR, made by Kodak, sadly no
longer available that you exposed to ultra violet light
through a negative transparency of the of the layout.
Then developed in a solvent based solution that
coloured your fingers red for at least a week if you got it
on them.

So you would not
be cheating if you used modern pre-sensitized copper FR4
from companies such as Mega,
<http://www.megauk.com/pcb_laminates.php>
or a dry film:
<http://www.instructables.com/id/Fantastic-Double-Sided-PCBs-at-home-using-photores/>
or
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRCFGZxmob0>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The
writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al
ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 9/29/15, 'Brad'
unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
questions
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday,
September 29, 2015, 11:51 PM


 









Hi guys,
 I’ve been continuing to
research and
amass parts for my TV Typewriter replica build.
 I have a blog of it here:
http://bradhodge.ca/blog%c2%a0
-- mostly working
on the case right now to inspire me to
push
forward, but I’ve succeeded in getting almost all of
the vintage 1973 or earlier chips I needed. 
Now I’m down
to the PCBs again.
 I guess I’m still
kind of
‘green’ on this sort of thing.  Ideally, I’d
like to do my PCBs the way they would have in
1973.  But I
still don’t understand how
that worked.  Don Lancaster
said the boards
used were green G-10.  I found this on
ebay: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Green-G-10-FR4-Sheets-032-Thick-x-28-x-7-25-G10-Material-/141719358328?hash=item20ff21cb78
 I guess what I’m having trouble
with is
understanding how a home PCB maker in 1973 would
have gone about getting copper onto these
boards and copying
the artwork from the
article.  Is there any really good,
baby-steps reading out there?  I just want to
understand
the original process and if it is
possible to replicate it
here in 2015.  I
sort of understand the idea behind photo
lithography.. I’m just not understanding how
copper ends
up on board, etc.  Much
appreciated!  BRad    









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No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database:
4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
Internal
Virus Database is out of date.









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#yiv9294157223

When did etch resist pens come in? Pretty sure they were around in 1972.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: 30 September 2015 10:40
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
>
> Brad
>
> The simple answer is no. Laser printers did not exist then so toner transfer
> was not possible. Silk screen materials were available and you could do a
> screen if you had access to a college art department.
>
> Again you could cheat by doing a colour laser printout thermal transfer. You
> need some means of aligning the image to the board.
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Wed, 9/30/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10 questions
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2015, 5:51 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks muchly Malcolm. That
> makes things a lot clearer. Question – did you do any silkscreening back
> then for parts placement? I notice in the plans printed by Radio Electronics,
> they had the printouts for the copper side, but also silkscreening for the
> non-copper side to aid in parts placement. I’m wondering how a home
> hobbyist at the time might have pulled that off, or if they did. From:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 4:15
> PM
> To:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
> questions Back in those days I used two
> methods:
> Copper clad FR4 was available, but
> a lot of SRBP was used as it was much cheaper.
> The first method was to paint, by hand, using mothers thinned nail varnish
> onto a carbon paper print traced from the layout printout.
> There was a
> great negative photo resist, KPCR, made by Kodak, sadly no longer available
> that you exposed to ultra violet light through a negative transparency of the
> of the layout.
> Then developed in a solvent based solution that coloured your fingers red
> for at least a week if you got it on them.
>
> So you would not
> be cheating if you used modern pre-sensitized copper FR4 from companies
> such as Mega, <http://www.megauk.com/pcb_laminates.php>
> or a dry film:
> <http://www.instructables.com/id/Fantastic-Double-Sided-PCBs-at-home-
> using-photores/>
> or
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRCFGZxmob0>
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The
> writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al
> ha-kir
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Tue, 9/29/15, 'Brad'
> unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] G-10
> questions
> To:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday,
> September 29, 2015, 11:51 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
> I’ve been continuing to
> research and
> amass parts for my TV Typewriter replica build.
> I have a blog of it here:
> http://bradhodge.ca/blog
> -- mostly working
> on the case right now to inspire me to
> push
> forward, but I’ve succeeded in getting almost all of the vintage 1973 or
> earlier chips I needed. Now I’m down to the PCBs again.
> I guess I’m still
> kind of
> ‘green’ on this sort of thing. Ideally, I’d like to do my PCBs the way they
> would have in 1973. But I still don’t understand how that worked. Don
> Lancaster said the boards used were green G-10. I found this on
> ebay:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Green-G-10-FR4-Sheets-032-Thick-x-28-x-7-
> 25-G10-Material-/141719358328?hash=item20ff21cb78
> I guess what I’m having trouble
> with is
> understanding how a home PCB maker in 1973 would have gone about
> getting copper onto these boards and copying the artwork from the
> article. Is there any really good, baby-steps reading out there? I just want to
> understand the original process and if it is possible to replicate it here in
> 2015. I sort of understand the idea behind photo lithography.. I’m just not
> understanding how copper ends up on board, etc. Much
> appreciated! BRad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> No virus found in this
> message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database:
> 4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
> Internal
> Virus Database is out of date.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

I used to do the same, using Humbrol model paint on carbon paper trace.  For simple things I would paint direct on SRBP. No glass fibre.

Cheers,
Will

 

Back in those days I used two methods:
Copper clad FR4 was available, but a lot of SRBP was used as it was much cheaper.
The first method was to paint, by hand, using mothers thinned nail varnish onto a carbon paper print traced from the layout printout.


 

On 30/09/2015 10:53, 'Dave G4UGM' dave.g4ugm@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
wrote:

> When did etch resist pens come in? Pretty sure they were around in 1972.

I vaguely remember using a Decon Dalo pen around then (they are still
available), but I could be wrong. I found that cellulose paint made
easier to use by mixing it with thinners worked better, and was much
cheaper.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
G1HSM

OK, I made PC boards in my garage back in the 70s. I used a variety of techniques.

First, you wonder how the copper got on the boards. Well, even back in those dark ages, you just bought them that way. The factory put the copper on them: I never even considered the possibility of doing it myself. Oh, they did sell pens that drew conductive lines, but I never trusted them so I did not even try them. It was a conductive paint, not solid copper.

You could buy either plain copper clad boards or sensitized copper clad boards. The sensitized ones had the photo resist already sprayed on them in a nice even coat. You needed a high density negative or positive, depending on the type of resist on the board. It was before the days of inexpensive computer CAD so I made 2 times actual size layouts using graph paper with a 1/10th grid of "drop out" lines. That means the lines did not get picked up on the negative or positive transparency which was the next step. I used drafting aids like black adhesive tape in various line widths and self adhesive doughnut pads and IC patterns. All of these were available from drafting supply stores. I carefully placed them on the grid with due care for trace separation. My primary tool was an Xacto knife.

Then that artwork was taken to a drafting or blueprint company who had a copy camera. That was a camera that had the lens, film holder, and art holders all mounted on floor tracks. It could make negatives or positives in exact geometric ratios. Since my original was 2X, I had 1/2 size negatives made. Of course, you could make your own negatives but then you had to work with 1X artwork on transparent plastic and a contact print frame.

Then the boards were exposed to either direct sunlight or a bulb that had heavy IR content in it's light. They were developed using a solvent solution and allowed to dry. Then placed in an etchant until the excess copper was removed. Then the resist was scrubbed off with steel wool or dissolved with a different solvent.

I also liked to use a tin plating solution to improve the solderability. Dip, wait two minutes, remove and rinse.

Finally, they were drilled with the various sized drills needed for the individual pads.

Or you could buy the plain boards and spray the resist on from spray cans. A company called Kepro had all these supplies, but they no longer exist.

Or you could use those self adhesive pads directly on the bare copper board to form the pattern on. This was OK for a one-off board, but tedious if you needed several. And the etchant could get under the traces where they overlapped a doughnut hole due to the height of that doughnut pad.

Another way was to start with the bare copper board (one side or two) and use a perf board to mark the pad locations. Then drill them. Then use a resist pen or a Sharpie marker to draw the foil pattern. Etch, clean, tin plate and use.

Others used other techniques. You could make a Zerox copy of the artwork and use an iron to transfer the toner to the bare copper board. I believe some people still do this today. Some retouching with a resist pen or Sharpie was generally needed.

Like I said, many ways, even back in that ancient era of the 70s.

I assume you are trying to do this in an authentic manner, but back in the 70s I usually saved the PCB process for boards where I needed four or more identical boards. If I only needed one, two, or three I usually used the Vector slit and wrap, wire wrap pens. I built many professional projects that way. I made wire lists and was very careful in making the connections properly. I never had a bad WW board.

Paul A.

Paul
Just to correct your statement
"Then the boards were exposed to either direct sunlight or a bulb that had heavy IR content in it's light."

The resist is not sensitive to infra red (IR), it is sensitive to ultraviolet (UV).

Malcolm


I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 9/30/15, palciatore@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 2015, 2:30 PM


 









OK, I made PC boards in my garage back in the 70s.
I used a variety of techniques.

First, you wonder how the copper got on the
boards. Well, even back in those dark ages, you just bought
them that way. The factory put the copper on them: I never
even considered the possibility of doing it myself. Oh, they
did sell pens that drew conductive lines, but I never
trusted them so I did not even try them. It was a conductive
paint, not solid copper.

You could buy either plain copper clad boards
or sensitized copper clad boards. The sensitized ones had
the photo resist already sprayed on them in a nice even
coat. You needed a high density negative or positive,
depending on the type of resist on the board. It was before
the days of inexpensive computer CAD so I made 2 times
actual size layouts using graph paper with a 1/10th grid of
"drop out" lines. That means the lines did not get
picked up on the negative or positive transparency which was
the next step. I used drafting aids like black adhesive tape
in various line widths and self adhesive doughnut pads and
IC patterns. All of these were available from drafting
supply stores. I carefully placed them on the grid with due
care for trace separation. My primary tool was an Xacto
knife.

Then that artwork
was taken to a drafting or blueprint company who had a copy
camera. That was a camera that had the lens, film holder,
and art holders all mounted on floor tracks. It could make
negatives or positives in exact geometric ratios. Since my
original was 2X, I had 1/2 size negatives made. Of course,
you could make your own negatives but then you had to work
with 1X artwork on transparent plastic and a contact print
frame.

Then the boards
were exposed to either direct sunlight or a bulb that had
heavy IR content in it's light. They were developed
using a solvent solution and allowed to dry. Then placed in
an etchant until the excess copper was removed. Then the
resist was scrubbed off with steel wool or dissolved with a
different solvent.

I also
liked to use a tin plating solution to improve the
solderability. Dip, wait two minutes, remove and rinse.

Finally, they were drilled
with the various sized drills needed for the individual
pads.

Or you could buy the
plain boards and spray the resist on from spray cans. A
company called Kepro had all these supplies, but they no
longer exist.

Or you could
use those self adhesive pads directly on the bare copper
board to form the pattern on. This was OK for a one-off
board, but tedious if you needed several. And the etchant
could get under the traces where they overlapped a doughnut
hole due to the height of that doughnut pad.

Another way was to start with
the bare copper board (one side or two) and use a perf board
to mark the pad locations. Then drill them. Then use a
resist pen or a Sharpie marker to draw the foil pattern.
Etch, clean, tin plate and use.

Others used other techniques. You could make a
Zerox copy of the artwork and use an iron to transfer the
toner to the bare copper board. I believe some people still
do this today. Some retouching with a resist pen or Sharpie
was generally needed.

Like
I said, many ways, even back in that ancient era of the 70s.


I assume you are trying to
do this in an authentic manner, but back in the 70s I
usually saved the PCB process for boards where I needed four
or more identical boards. If I only needed one, two, or
three I usually used the Vector slit and wrap, wire wrap
pens. I built many professional projects that way. I made
wire lists and was very careful in making the connections
properly. I never had a bad WW board.

Paul A.









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in the 70s as a jr high and high school teenager I used tshirt silk
screen kits from the craft/toy store with staedler mars drafting pens on
overhead projector transparencies and a photoflood to make traces and
screens.
College art department?
basement laundry room.


Used to get linotape then too from the papergoods/office supply stores
in the malls, but that risked shadows from the second clear layer.




On 9/30/2015 5:39 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

> Brad
>
> The simple answer is no. Laser printers did not exist then so toner transfer was not possible. Silk screen materials were available and you could do a screen if you had access to a college art department.
>
> Again you could cheat by doing a colour laser printout thermal transfer. You need some means of aligning the image to the board.
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
>

I also built boards in the early years. One of the spray on resists was produced by a company called Dynachem. It was a system that required a solvent developer and a dye to color it so you could see what was going on. Going by the odor of the product, it was probably the same product later sold through GC Electronics with the dye added to the resist. Bishop graphics made the the stick on pattters for the tape up artwork. They patterns were available in 1X, 2X and larger IIIRC. I had a camera lens I picked up at a surplus store and made my own setup for 2X artwork and used Kodalith sheet film for the negatives. The spray on resist gave me inconsistant results, probably more my fault than the products fault. There was also a dry transfer product that used rub-on patterns and traced. There were also dry transfer letters for labels on projects. I still have some of the G10 copper clad material from that era never used it all.

>Paul
>Just to correct your statement
>"Then the boards were exposed to either direct sunlight or a bulb
>that had heavy IR content in it's light."
>
>The resist is not sensitive to infra red (IR), it is sensitive to
>ultraviolet (UV).
>
>Malcolm

Malcolm, You are quite correct. I had meant to go back and check that
but forgot. Thanks for keeping me honest. Apologies to all for the mistake.


Paul A.

In article <1443568483.26757.YahooMailBasic@...>,
Malcolm Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Copper clad FR4 was available, but a lot of SRBP was used as it was much
> cheaper. The first method was to paint, by hand, using mothers thinned
> nail varnish onto a carbon paper print traced from the layout printout.

I was using car touch-up paint. Remember those little tins with a small
paint-brush fixed inside the lid?

Then drilled by hand using a 1mm HSS bit held in a pin-holder chuck; good
job SRBP was no near as abrasive as glass fibre board is.

--
Stuart Winsor

Tools With A Mission
sending tools across the world
http://www.twam.co.uk/

You can get toner transfer sheet on ebay from China, but I use gloss photo paper meant for ink jet printers to print the laser image onto. I then place the heat transferred paper and PCB into the freezer for 20 mins and the paper peels off leaving a perfect image on the copper for etching.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 10/6/15, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2015, 6:58 PM


 









Thanks guys.  I think the important thing for me
is getting as close as I can to original material/look.  If
the toner process works just as well and avoids some
difficulting in finding presensitized boards, I could go
that route. Whatever it is, I just want something that has
that vintage G10 green look.  Brad  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2015 12:55
PM
To: Homebrew PCBs
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10
questions    Sweet
Memories:
 There was once
a really super company called Kepro.
 They sold
presensitized (with Kodak KPR) boards stock, both paper and
G10 epoxy, for veryreasonable
prices, and in a variety of sizes. You could even send in
your own material andthey would
coat it for you.
 They also made
a comprehensive array of photo-coat/expose/etch equipment,
good enoughproto and
light production operations.
 When the Feds
put a ban on aromatic compounds like Kodak KPR and others,
the entireindustry went
belly up, including the aforementioned DynaChem, which was
also pretty goodstuff if you
took the time to learn how to use it
correctly.
 I think most
small-timers went to dry film resist, which is still
available from several offshoresellers on
Ebay. There are also some sellers of liquid resist on
Ebay.
 I just prefer
to purchase presensitized material from several suppliers on
Ebay, along withthe required
developer and plating solutions.
 Of course
etching is a cinch using a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and
muriatic acid, whichis sold in my
neck of the woods as swimming pool
cleaner.
 Copy machine
transfer is good if you like to fart around all day just to
produce a singlePCB.
 Keep the
faith.
 Roland F.
Harriston, P.D.*************************
 From:
"roger@...
[Homebrew_PCBs]"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
To:
"Homebrew PCBs"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015
8:34:54 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs]
Re: G-10 questions
  I also built
boards in the early years. One of the spray on resists was
produced by a company called Dynachem. It was a system that
required a solvent developer and a dye to color it so you
could see what was going on. Going by the odor of the
product, it was probably the same product later sold through
GC Electronics with the dye added to the resist. Bishop
graphics made the the stick on pattters for the tape up
artwork. They patterns were available in 1X, 2X and larger
IIIRC. I had a camera lens I picked up at a surplus store
and made my own setup for 2X artwork and used Kodalith sheet
film for the negatives. The spray on resist gave me
inconsistant results, probably more my fault than the
products fault. There was also a dry transfer product that
used rub-on patterns and traced. There were also dry
transfer letters for labels on projects. I still have some
of the G10 copper clad material from that era never used it
all.
 No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database:
4409/10551 - Release Date: 08/31/15
Internal
Virus Database is out of date.









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#yiv2387718152

I tape a piece of wax paper to a regular piece of paper then print on that with the LaserJet.  Works great.   Since the wax paper is translucent, it really aids in lining up the transfer on the copper.

Waxed paper or baking parchment? I would expect the former's coating to melt in the printer and make a mess of it; the parchment should survive OK.

Donald.

----- Original Message -----
> From: "me@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 12:47:38 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
>
> I tape a piece of wax paper to a regular piece of paper then print on that
> with the LaserJet. Works great. Since the wax paper is translucent, it
> really aids in lining up the transfer on the copper.

Wax paper works fine.     I have been using it for months with no noticeable issues.   I use Reynolds wax paper.   Other off brand wax paper yieds poor results.

Thank you.

----- Original Message -----
> From: "me@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 11:20:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: G-10 questions
>
> Wax paper works fine. I have been using it for months with no noticeable
> issues. I use Reynolds wax paper. Other off brand wax paper yieds poor
> results.