Homebrew_PCBs

Hello all,

Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified
laser printer to print toner directly on copperclad:

<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8>

Mark

Mark,


Can you say more about how you modified the laser printer?


Thanks,


Rick


-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 11:50 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video


Hello all,


Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified laser
printer to print toner directly on copperclad:


<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8>


Mark






------------------------------------
Posted by: Mark Lerman <mlerman@...>
------------------------------------


Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
------------------------------------


Yahoo Groups Links

I'm going to post an Instructible soon. There are two versions of the
hack. The simplest just requires removal of the fuser, adding a set
of input rollers, and moving the exit sensor (or adding a
microprocessor), but it only allows .032 thick pcbs. To get thicker
boards you need to cut a bit of plastic and add a microprocessor. Not
hard, but does take some time.

At 05:39 PM 7/18/2014, you wrote:

>Mark,
>
>
>Can you say more about how you modified the laser printer?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Rick
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 11:50 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Direct Laser Printing Video
>
>
>Hello all,
>
>
>Here is a video I just posted of my process that uses a modified laser
>printer to print toner directly on copperclad:
>
>
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY-7hQ6ocx8>
>
>
>Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Mark Lerman <mlerman@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Is this modification limited to a specific model of Lexmark printer?

Right now I am using a Lexmark E260. Some others might work, but the HP printers I have tried do not. It is not only a paper path problem, the transfer voltage and drum voltages have to be right, and there is no way to know without trying.



At 10:42 PM 7/18/2014, you wrote:

Is this modification limited to a specific model of Lexmark printer?

Trying to get the local Makerspace interested in the project.

Lexmark printers can really lay down heavy ink. I've had good luck doing iron on toner transfer boards with my 4039 10+.

There's also a Local Printer Setting Utility program available (free) that lets you set all parameters, even things like toner density, contrast, fine line enhancement, etc.


At 09:48 AM 7/19/2014, you wrote:

Trying to get the local Makerspace interested in the project.

Lexmark printers can really lay down heavy ink. I've had good luck doing iron on toner transfer boards with my 4039 10+.

I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to
convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in
<15 minutes.

Mark

<http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/>

Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/

>

Mark





At 10:42 PM 7/18/2014, you wrote:

Is this modification limited to a specific model of Lexmark printer?

Thanks, very neat -- but puzzled by why it's so quiet in your lab?

Because I was filming and the dogs were quiet. There were several out takes where I let loose a few 4 letter words when things didn't go as expected. It's all in the editing <smile>.

At 08:35 AM 8/3/2014, you wrote:

Thanks, very neat -- but puzzled by why it's so quiet in your lab?

>
>
>I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to
>convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in
><15 minutes.

You mention imperial size,but what with the rest of the world who aren't
able to find, let say a 4-40 screw.
If it is to be used with a nut, will be ok, can be replaced with a metric pair,
but if it is to be screwed in an already threaded hole in the printer's body
will be a big problem.
BTW, very good design!
Cristian

Sorry about the provincial attitude, but I didn't want to translate.
The printer is metric, but no new screws have to go into a threaded
hole, anyway. For the record, 4-40 is 2.845 mm diameter, so a m3
should work, and 6-32 is 3.505mm. You can use a m4 here, but an m3
would be fine.

At 01:03 PM 8/3/2014, you wrote:

> >
> >
> >I just published an Instructable on the Lexmark E260 detailing how to
> >convert it to print directly on copper clad boards. Design to PCB in
> ><15 minutes.
>
>You mention imperial size,but what with the rest of the world who aren't
>able to find, let say a 4-40 screw.
>If it is to be used with a nut, will be ok, can be replaced with a
>metric pair,
>but if it is to be screwed in an already threaded hole in the printer's body
>will be a big problem.
>BTW, very good design!
>Cristian
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

How do you handle registration when doing a 2-sided board?

I've just started working on it, but what I plan to do is print a "center line" on the carrier then fuse it so it stays there. I can then either drill 2 small holes in the pcbs and line them up over the holes, or notch the top and bottom of the pcb and align the notches to the center line. The top of the pcb can fit against a "stop" epoxied to the carrier. Print one side, fix it in acetone, flip it and print the second side. Then fix the second side. Should work.

As things are now, if I print an X on the pcb then run it through the printer a second time, it usually prints right on top of the first print.

Mark


At 02:50 PM 8/3/2014, you wrote:

How do you handle registration when doing a 2-sided board?

Sorry about the provincial attitude, but I didn't want to translate

No intention to offence you.
You deserve respect for your work.

The printer is metric, but no new screws have to go into a threaded
hole, anyway.

This concern was the only reason of my mail.
If the threaded hole is imperial or else, no one can 'translate' it to metric.
Now is all clear.
Cristian

I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?

Hard to tell because I have opened these so many times, but I would guess somewhere in the 10-12 hour range. The actual time to do it is much less, but keeping yourself oriented, keeping track of screws, etc will require attention.

There is another version of the hack that is physically simpler, but it requires the use of a microcontroller. It's actually the method I prefer, but I wanted to make the process accessible to people without microcontroller familiarity.

Mark

Mark

At 10:55 AM 8/4/2014, you wrote:

I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?

Thanks,
Dave M

---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <mlerman@...> wrote :


Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>

Mark

One more thing. It IS possible to modify the printer without cutting the paper platform, but the clearance is very tight and thicker boards are a problem. For that hack, much less work is required and it can probably be done in an hour or so.

Mark

At 10:55 AM 8/4/2014, you wrote:

I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?

Thanks,
Dave M

---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <mlerman@...> wrote :


Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>

Mark

Can you tell us more about the microcontroller hack Mark?

Hard to tell because I have opened these so many times, but I would guess somewhere in the 10-12 hour range. The actual time to do it is much less, but keeping yourself oriented, keeping track of screws, etc will require attention.

There is another version of the hack that is physically simpler, but it requires the use of a microcontroller. It's actually the method I prefer, but I wanted to make the process accessible to people without microcontroller familiarity.

Mark

Mark

At 10:55 AM 8/4/2014, you wrote:

I haven't had time to view the video yet, but can you estimate how much time it would take for an average person (one who has never been inside a laser printer other than to change a toner cartridge) to modify one of the subject printers?

Thanks,
Dave M

---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <mlerman@...> wrote :


Here's the Instructable < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Lexmark-E260-for-Direct-Laser-/
>

Mark

My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu savvy.  And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack.  I know that I am all about simplifying the hardware design with an mcu...I mean, that is how Atmel and Microchip got their start...making a built in, low end processor cheaper and easier than a commenusurate amount of hardware.

I'll try to get to it soon - Mark


At 10:38 PM 8/4/2014, you wrote:

My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu savvy.  And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack.  I know that I am all about simplifying the hardware design with an mcu...I mean, that is how Atmel and Microchip got their start...making a built in, low end processor cheaper and easier than a commenusurate amount of hardware.

>I'll try to get to it soon - Mark
>
>>My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu
>>savvy. And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much
>>effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack.

Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good
for now, please?
Cristian

Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you
for the cost of shipping.

Mark

At 09:20 AM 8/5/2014, you wrote:

> >I'll try to get to it soon - Mark
> >
> >>My guess is that most of this goup's users are fairly mcu
> >>savvy. And, sorry to keep pestering you about this, but how much
> >>effort would it be to additionally publish your mcu hack.
>
>Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good
>for now, please?
>Cristian
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

At 04:28 PM 05-08-14, you wrote:

>
>
>
>Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you
>for the cost of shipping.
>
>Mark
>
> >
> >Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good
> >for now, please?
> >Cristian

I'm afraid that the two shippings will cost me more than a new mcu.
How much is that new mcu shipped to Romania, please?

Is there the .hex available, to let me re-programm locally?
Cristian

I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the
hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use?

Mark

At 09:38 AM 8/5/2014, you wrote:

>At 04:28 PM 05-08-14, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >Probably, but it would have to be reprogrammed. I'll do that for you
> >for the cost of shipping.
> >
> >Mark
> >
> > >
> > >Is the mcu I've bought from you, a while ago (plus a small pcb), good
> > >for now, please?
> > >Cristian
>
>I'm afraid that the two shippings will cost me more than a new mcu.
>How much is that new mcu shipped to Romania, please?
>
>Is there the .hex available, to let me re-programm locally?
>Cristian
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

At 05:04 PM 05-08-14, you wrote:

>
>
>I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the
>hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use?

TINY 13 on both boards.
I have two versions (two different boards), your first two versions, years ago.
I'll send to your mail the photo.
Also, please let me know how to connect the 6 pins ISP connector.
Cristian

I'll get the data to you in a few days, but the ISP is in the same
configuration as the AVRISP ISP programmer.
<http://www.batsocks.co.uk/readme/isp_headers.htm>. It's the 6 pin
connector, and the diagram shows you viewing it from the top. The
cable from the programmer goes to the right, assuming you are using
the AVRISP such
as<http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/in-circuit-programmers-emulators-and-debuggers/2621880?k=avrisp>.

Mark

At 02:05 PM 8/5/2014, you wrote:

>At 05:04 PM 05-08-14, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >I'll get it together in the next couple of days and send the both the
> >hex and asm files to you. What mcu does your board use?
>
>TINY 13 on both boards.
>I have two versions (two different boards), your first two versions,
>years ago.
>I'll send to your mail the photo.
>Also, please let me know how to connect the 6 pins ISP connector.
>Cristian
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Went to ebay to buy the Lexmark but noticed there were several versions of the E260 such as an a, an d, dn etc. What is yours?

d, dn are fine, don't know what an "a" version is.

Mark

At 05:42 PM 9/3/2014, you wrote:

Went to ebay to buy the Lexmark but noticed there were several versions of the E260 such as an a, an d, dn etc. What is yours?

Randy