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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Iron Wattage

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Iron Wattage

2014-04-11 by Cecil Bayona

Bad link, missing information, happiness is when people copy and
paste links instead of typing them from memory and getting them wrong.

< http://www.pulsarprofx.com/ >

At 12:45 PM 4/11/2014, you wrote:
>
>
>The pulsar pro web site has your answer and proper way to calibrate it also.
>Try <http://www.pulsarpro.com>www.pulsarpro.com and google it.
>

--
Cecil - k5nwa
< http://thepartsplace.k5nwa.com/ > < http://www.softrockradio.org/ >

Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Iron Wattage

2014-04-11 by <krisfr@...>

What Wattage Iron does anyone use for toner transfer work.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-11 by Stefan Trethan

I don't think it matters, since all clothes irons are temperature controlled.
A higher power iron will only heat up faster.

Myself I use a laminator instead of an iron.

ST

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On Fri, Apr 11, 2014 at 6:42 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


What Wattage Iron does anyone use for toner transfer work.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by <krisfr@...>

The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by Stefan Trethan

If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not consistently.

ST

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On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by Christopher R. Fraction

I have two laminators, one from Harbor Freight and another one. I can not get either of them anywhere near hot enough to transfer toner...
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Christopher R. Fraction

My Thought for Today:
Live Life like there is something
VERY important to do tomorrow
that ONLY you can DO
Because there IS!!!!!
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:34 PM, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not consistently.

ST

On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....




Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by Christopher R. Fraction

Also the board I am trying to do is TOO thick

Show quoted textHide quoted text
Christopher R. Fraction

My Thought for Today:
Live Life like there is something
VERY important to do tomorrow
that ONLY you can DO
Because there IS!!!!!
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:34 PM, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not consistently.

ST

On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....




Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by Stefan Trethan

There was some discussion in the past about modifying laminators for higher temperature and thicker boards.
I made one from a photocopier fuser unit so can't say what that would involve exactly.

ST


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On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:38 PM, Christopher R. Fraction <krisfr@...> wrote:


Also the board I am trying to do is TOO thick


Christopher R. Fraction

My Thought for Today:
Live Life like there is something
VERY important to do tomorrow
that ONLY you can DO
Because there IS!!!!!
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:34 PM, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not consistently.

ST

On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....







Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-12 by Bill Maxwell

Higher temperature modification for a commonly available Lowell laminator can be found at https://ultrakeet.com.au/write-ups/superFuserV2
On 13/04/2014 2:53 AM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
There was some discussion in the past about modifying laminators for higher temperature and thicker boards.
I made one from a photocopier fuser unit so can't say what that would involve exactly.

ST


On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:38 PM, Christopher R. Fraction <krisfr@...> wrote:


Also the board I am trying to do is TOO thick


Christopher R. Fraction

My Thought for Today:
Live Life like there is something
VERY important to do tomorrow
that ONLY you can DO
Because there IS!!!!!
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:34 PM, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not consistently.

ST

On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:


The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage did you use... THANKS for all answers....








RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-13 by Tony Smith

Usually it's just replacing the thermal cut-out for a high rated one.



This sort of thing:
http://www.apart4u.co.uk/thermal-cut-out-switch-l120c.html, although that
price is a tad high, they're normally a dollar or two.



It might take a bit of trial & error to get the right one, and you'll
usually want to get the one above the temperature you're after, so if you
want 150C, go for the 170C one instead.



The 150C one will cut out at 150C (as you'd expect), but won't turn on again
until it's about 20-30C below that, so it'll cool down to 120-130C before
heating up again, and that's too cold.



The 170C one will run at 140-170C which might work ok. If not get the next
one..



Check the datasheet for the exact range, but it'll be something like that.



There also might be a thermal fuse that will need replacing or bypassing.



Tony





There was some discussion in the past about modifying laminators for higher
temperature and thicker boards.
I made one from a photocopier fuser unit so can't say what that would
involve exactly.

ST



On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:38 PM, Christopher R. Fraction <krisfr@...>
wrote:



Also the board I am trying to do is TOO thick







Christopher R. Fraction

My Thought for Today:
Live Life like there is something
VERY important to do tomorrow
that ONLY you can DO
Because there IS!!!!!

On Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:34 PM, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:



If you use a laminator (or fuser unit from a laser printer) you will
eliminate this problem of variable board size.

I haven't done a board of any size with success using an iron, at least not
consistently.

ST

Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 6:19 PM, <krisfr@...> wrote:



The higher the wattage the more heat the iron will put out. I am trying to
do toner transfer to a board that is more than twice the size of the surface
of the iron. It is also 2 oz. and double sided. The board itself will suck
heat away from the area I am trying to transfer the toner to. Has anyone
done a board of this type and size with success? What Size iron in wattage
did you use... THANKS for all answers....



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Iron Wattage

2014-04-14 by <heather@...>

I do galvanic etching on 20 & 22 gauge copper sheets, often 6" x 4" which is bigger than an iron. Toner transfer is one of the etch resists I use. I have had some successes (and some not) using a electric pancake griddle to bring the heatsoak the metal and then use the iron to apply the toner resist. Set the griddle to about 350 and use the cotton setting on the iron.

Some tips:
  • Use a paper towel between the griddle and the metal to keep the metal from slipping around. It won't burn for the temps used.
  • Prevent bubbles forming in the paper during the ironing process by running the metal & paper pattern through a laminator several times first then do the griddle & iron method.
  • burnishing with the iron is important to ensure adhesion of the toner. The laminator helps but its just not enough adhesion for my etching process.
  • If you get it too hot the toner will slip and smear. :-(
  • I use the laminator recommended by pcbfx.com from several years ago. Just noticed they have a different recommendation these days.http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/laminator_info.html
Good luck!

Re: Iron Wattage

2014-04-16 by Heather Magill

Ok, third time replying might be the charm so....

I'm a metalsmith and often galvanic etch copper (20 or 22 gauge) bigger than my iron (6"x4"). I use the toner transfer method and have had some success using a laminator and an electric pancake griddle.

The laminator is used to get a light adhesion of the toner to the metal and to prevent bubbles forming when I iron.
I use the pancake griddle to heat soak my metal and then apply the iron to burnish and add more heat for the transfer.

tips:
  • set the pancake griddle at 300 or 250 and the iron on the cotton setting.
  • use a paper towel between the griddle and the metal so it doesn't slip around.
  • use the iron to burnish the toner on to the metal I hold the metal with a piece of wood doweling
  • don't get it too hot or things will get slippery and the toner will smear. :-(
  • run the metal and resist pattern through the laminator many times to get things to stick. It still doesn't stick enough for my etching which is why I added the iron and pancake griddle
  • The laminator I use was recommended by pcbfx a couple of years ago. They have a new recommendation now: http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/laminator_info.html
And here is some interesting tidbits on temperatures culled from various places on the internet:

printer fuser temperatures: 200 °C (392 °F)

laminator temperatures 5mil thick (one side) 225 to 240 F

iron temperatures (vary by manufacture but some guidelines are:
Linen: 230 °C (445 °F)
Triacetate: 200 °C (390 °F)
Cotton: 204 °C (400 °F)
Viscose: 190 °C (375 °F)
Wool/Polyster/Silk: 148 °C (300 °F)

Cheers,
Heather.