Homebrew PCBs

Ok, third time replying might be the charm so....

I'm a metalsmith and often galvanic etch copper (20 or 22 gauge) bigger 
than my iron (6"x4").  I use the toner transfer method and have had some 
success using a laminator and an electric pancake griddle.

The laminator is used to get a light adhesion of the toner to the metal 
and to prevent bubbles forming when I iron.
I use the pancake griddle to heat soak my metal and then apply the iron 
to burnish and add more heat for the transfer.

tips:

  * set the pancake griddle at 300 or 250 and the iron on the cotton
    setting.
  * use a paper towel between the griddle and the metal so it doesn't
    slip around.
  * use the iron to burnish the toner on to the metal  I hold the metal
    with a piece of wood doweling
  * don't get it too hot or things will get slippery and the toner will
    smear. :-(
  * run the metal and resist pattern through the laminator many times to
    get things to stick. It still doesn't stick enough for my etching
    which is why I added the iron and pancake griddle
  * The laminator I use was recommended by pcbfx a couple of years ago. 
    They have a new recommendation now:
    http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/laminator_info.html

  And here is some interesting tidbits on temperatures culled from 
various places on the internet:

printer fuser temperatures: 200 �C (392 �F)

laminator temperatures 5mil thick (one side) 225 to 240 F

iron temperatures (vary by manufacture but some guidelines are:
Linen: 230 �C (445 �F)
Triacetate: 200 �C (390 �F)
Cotton: 204 �C (400 �F)
Viscose: 190 �C (375 �F)
Wool/Polyster/Silk: 148 �C (300 �F)

Cheers,
Heather.