Homebrew PCBs

Here is a crazy idea that might just work:

A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.  Apply a
layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.

 

Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.  

If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a photoresist
as an alternative.

Bertho



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

2 things come to immediately to mind.

CD/DVD recorders use Infrared lasers and most photoresist is UV sensitive.

I don't know if the resolution of a lightscribe would be fine enough.

Worth a shot though if you can find IR sensitive resist.

TIm

On 4/13/2011 8:31, Boman33 wrote:
>
> Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
>
> A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
>
> Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
>
> If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a 
> photoresist
> as an alternative.
>
> Bertho
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Hash: SHA1

On 13-04-11 15:31, Boman33 wrote:
> Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> 
> A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.  Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> 
>  
> 
> Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.  
> 
> If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a photoresist
> as an alternative.
> 
> Bertho
> 
> 
> 

It sounds like "killing a bull for a steak" :)

- -- 
Best Regards,
Zoran A. ??epanovi?
zastos@...
http://zastos.com
+381 63 609-993

- -..-
Programmers don't die!
  They just GOSUB without RETURN.

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From:  Zoran A. Scepanovic  Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 09:54
> It sounds like "killing a bull for a steak" :)

 

How would you get the steak otherwise J

Bertho



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I suspect that without some sort of exhaust ventilation you'll have
problems with paint residue/vapor coating your optics, and most anything
else in the vicinity.

-Matt

On 4/13/11 6:31 AM, Boman33 wrote:
>  
>
> Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
>
> A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
>
> Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
>
> If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
> photoresist
> as an alternative.
>
> Bertho
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 13/04/2011 14:31, Boman33 wrote:
> Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
>
> A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.  Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
>
>
>
> Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
>
> If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a photoresist
> as an alternative.


CD lasers don't have enough power.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

I assume just like a writable CD, the lightscribe part also needs a pre-made spiral groove in the material for the laser to follow.

If this is not there I expect the drive will just say "no disc" and do nothing.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:

>
> On 13/04/2011 14:31, Boman33 wrote:
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> > CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.  Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> > feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> > marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> > a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> > paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> 
> 
> CD lasers don't have enough power.
> 
> Leon
> -- 
> Leon Heller
> G1HSM
>

and in addition,the laser needs a mirror surface to carry out initial focusing 
and tracking...without that,it will also say no disc,and reject the media.





________________________________

From: tda7000 <Tda7000@....nz>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, April 13, 2011 10:41:11 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: CD shaped PCB

  
I assume just like a writable CD, the lightscribe part also needs a pre-made 
spiral groove in the material for the laser to follow.

If this is not there I expect the drive will just say "no disc" and do nothing.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:
>
> On 13/04/2011 14:31, Boman33 wrote:
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> > CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.  Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> > feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> > marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> > a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> > paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> 
> 
> CD lasers don't have enough power.
> 
> Leon
> -- 
> Leon Heller
> G1HSM
>


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I never thought about the tracking and that the drive might reject it
knowing it is not a CD.

I was a cute idea even if not practical at all ......

From:  tda7000   Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 17:41
  

I assume just like a writable CD, the lightscribe part also needs a pre-made
spiral groove in the material for the laser to follow.

If this is not there I expect the drive will just say "no disc" and do
nothing.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:
>
> On 13/04/2011 14:31, Boman33 wrote:
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like
a CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.

> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
called feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use
the marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit
on a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
photoresist as an alternative.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There have been tests with laser cutters into burning off etch resist, Adafruit industries tried it (after first dismissing the idea of directly burning off the copper)

"well you need superhigh power to remove copper and even then, its very difficult. one thing we might try with the laser cutter ive got is doing photoresist WITHOUT a mask by 'exposing' the mask directly w/laser @ 600DPI. if so: ultra high precision without ironing/transfers/UV boxes/milling/etc. 

stay tuned for our experiments!"

and then a few posts later:

"we tried it out, it was 'ok' but not as good as toner transfer (yet)"

(http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2807)

I guess it might be good if it were tweaked, but if it's not even as good as toner transfer I don't see much of a reason to bother (especially since my toner transfers work really well)

Even the UV method will be much cheaper than a laser cutter and no doubt even better quality again.
 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:

>
> I never thought about the tracking and that the drive might reject it
> knowing it is not a CD.
> 
> I was a cute idea even if not practical at all ......
> 
>  
> 
> From:  tda7000   Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 17:41
>   
> 
> I assume just like a writable CD, the lightscribe part also needs a pre-made
> spiral groove in the material for the laser to follow.
> 
> If this is not there I expect the drive will just say "no disc" and do
> nothing.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , Leon Heller <leon355@> wrote:
> >
> > On 13/04/2011 14:31, Boman33 wrote:
> > > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> > >
> > > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like
> a CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> 
> > > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
> called feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use
> the marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit
> on a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> > >
> > > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
> photoresist as an alternative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Sorry for shotting down an otherwise great idea, but having played with
these laser diodes quite a bit, specifically in terms of cutting with
the beam <http://elabz.com/category/laser-cutting/>  ,  I would have to
say that there is just not enough energy in the beam of a regular,
off-the-shelf DVD or even Bluray burner to evaporate paint off a
copper-clad  FR (or any other solid material for that matter). Copper
transfers heat away from the laser ablation point too well, in fact just
about any non-porous material does. That's why most of the stuff you'll
see cut with these laser diodes is foam.

Additionally, as others pointed out, the optics of the drive are
designed to be focused at a point in a middle of the CD's thickness and
even though the lens do adjust floating on the electromagnetic mount,
the adjustment would most likely be not enough to focus on the surface
(plus the pain layer thickness) instead.


But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on upping the
energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode (IR or blue) and
trying  paint evaporation again. It may just work on a thinnest (0.7
mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>
> Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
>
> A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just
like a
> CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. 
Apply a
> layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
>
>
>
> Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
called
> feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use
the
> marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will
fit on
> a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize
the
> paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
>
> If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
photoresist
> as an alternative.
>
> Bertho
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's a variation on your idea that may work well.

Some inkjet printers (e.g. the Epson R320) will print on CDs.  They already
have the straight-path and clearance built-in.   By using a CD shaped
circuit board, or a board that approximates the CD carrier, the printer may
be fooled into printing "Resist" directly onto the board!



On Thu, Apr 14, 2011 at 11:08 AM, DmitriA <rcdd@...> wrote:

>
>
> Sorry for shotting down an otherwise great idea, but having played with
> these laser diodes quite a bit, specifically in terms of cutting with
> the beam <http://elabz.com/category/laser-cutting/> , I would have to
> say that there is just not enough energy in the beam of a regular,
> off-the-shelf DVD or even Bluray burner to evaporate paint off a
> copper-clad FR (or any other solid material for that matter). Copper
> transfers heat away from the laser ablation point too well, in fact just
> about any non-porous material does. That's why most of the stuff you'll
> see cut with these laser diodes is foam.
>
> Additionally, as others pointed out, the optics of the drive are
> designed to be focused at a point in a middle of the CD's thickness and
> even though the lens do adjust floating on the electromagnetic mount,
> the adjustment would most likely be not enough to focus on the surface
> (plus the pain layer thickness) instead.
>
> But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on upping the
> energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode (IR or blue) and
> trying paint evaporation again. It may just work on a thinnest (0.7
> mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just
> like a
> > CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.
> Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
> called
> > feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use
> the
> > marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will
> fit on
> > a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize
> the
> > paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
> photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The burning laser diodes in CD recorders are near-IR (780nm), DVD recorders are red (~650nm) and Bluray recorders are, well, blue (405nm) with the latter getting sort of kinda close to UV though probably not close enough.

I've never seen Lightscribe resolution mentioned anywhere but, given that the stepper-driven worm cannot position the diode sled better than approx. 0.15mm (20 steps per rev stepper directly coupled to a 3mm lead worm) the resolution would have been probably OK for PCB printing. Looks like it converts to 169 dpi which is decent enough. In fact, given that the DVD-R/RW optics are usually spec'ed as "better than 0.05mm beam" and the lens can adjust itself relative to the stepper-driven sled, the actual resolution may even be better than 169 dpi but I doubt they use precise adjustments for such a crude operation as burning a visible image on the back of a CD...

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Tim Hills <thills@...> wrote:

>
> 2 things come to immediately to mind.
> 
> CD/DVD recorders use Infrared lasers and most photoresist is UV sensitive.
> 
> I don't know if the resolution of a lightscribe would be fine enough.
> 
> Worth a shot though if you can find IR sensitive resist.
> 
> TIm
> 
> On 4/13/2011 8:31, Boman33 wrote:
> >
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> > CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> > feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> > marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> > a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> > paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a 
> > photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

There's a guy on eBay selling 1 watt fiber optic coupled diodes that 
might do the job. The fiber is very small diameter (can't quite 
remember) so it can be used without a lens to cut lines  <5 mil if 
the fiber is placed very close to the pcb. I was going to use a cnc 
router to control the laser path. It seems very workable, but I have 
gotten sidetracked with other techniques for making pcbs. I may get back to it.
Mark


At 11:08 AM 4/14/2011, you wrote:

>Sorry for shotting down an otherwise great idea, but having played with
>these laser diodes quite a bit, specifically in terms of cutting with
>the beam <http://elabz.com/category/laser-cutting/>  ,  I would have to
>say that there is just not enough energy in the beam of a regular,
>off-the-shelf DVD or even Bluray burner to evaporate paint off a
>copper-clad  FR (or any other solid material for that matter). Copper
>transfers heat away from the laser ablation point too well, in fact just
>about any non-porous material does. That's why most of the stuff you'll
>see cut with these laser diodes is foam.
>
>Additionally, as others pointed out, the optics of the drive are
>designed to be focused at a point in a middle of the CD's thickness and
>even though the lens do adjust floating on the electromagnetic mount,
>the adjustment would most likely be not enough to focus on the surface
>(plus the pain layer thickness) instead.
>
>
>But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on upping the
>energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode (IR or blue) and
>trying  paint evaporation again. It may just work on a thinnest (0.7
>mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...
>
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just
>like a
> > CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.
>Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
>called
> > feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use
>the
> > marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will
>fit on
> > a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize
>the
> > paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
>photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Having dome my induction at FabLab Manchester can I say that even their
fairly high power laser cutter (it does 4mm plastic) won't cut PCB because
the surface is too shiny and the copper conducts the heat away . They make
PCBs either by milling and drilling with a Roland Modello or by cutting glue
backed copped strip. I want to try a milling head in a normal flat bed
plotter.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of DmitriA
> Sent: 14 April 2011 16:09
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com; Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: CD shaped PCB
> 
> 
> Sorry for shotting down an otherwise great idea, but having 
> played with these laser diodes quite a bit, specifically in 
> terms of cutting with the beam 
> <http://elabz.com/category/laser-cutting/>  ,  I would have 
> to say that there is just not enough energy in the beam of a 
> regular, off-the-shelf DVD or even Bluray burner to evaporate 
> paint off a copper-clad  FR (or any other solid material for 
> that matter). Copper transfers heat away from the laser 
> ablation point too well, in fact just about any non-porous 
> material does. That's why most of the stuff you'll see cut 
> with these laser diodes is foam.
> 
> Additionally, as others pointed out, the optics of the drive 
> are designed to be focused at a point in a middle of the CD's 
> thickness and even though the lens do adjust floating on the 
> electromagnetic mount, the adjustment would most likely be 
> not enough to focus on the surface (plus the pain layer 
> thickness) instead.
> 
> 
> But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on 
> upping the energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode 
> (IR or blue) and trying  paint evaporation again. It may just 
> work on a thinnest (0.7 mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> >
> > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just
> like a
> > CD.  It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used.
> Apply a
> > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is
> called
> > feature to mark CDs.  Take the layout and convert it to a 
> JPG and use
> the
> > marking software to place it on the CD.  Several small SMT PCBs will
> fit on
> > a CD.  "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it 
> will vaporize
> the
> > paint.  Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> >
> > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a
> photoresist
> > as an alternative.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, 
> Files, and Photos: 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>

as i'v e emailed someone on here ..  my concern is .. the media .. i had a lightscribe dvd on my hp laptop and i never used lightscribe.. the media is $1 each maybe more this is 5 to 10 times more than reg.

and i guess it takes 30 to 45 minutes to do it .. i dont know what the media is like that gets 'burned ' off in lightscribe ... 

this sounds like a great idea, but like the printing ink using an epson cd printer like an R200, -- its not all its supposed to be ..

you have to get special ink ? or use a hybrid process of toner and heat with ink .. 

also the cd tray tends to hit something if the printer up against a wall and then the mechanism doestn work so well, in fact not at all for me .



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "DmitriA" <rcdd@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> 
> The burning laser diodes in CD recorders are near-IR (780nm), DVD recorders are red (~650nm) and Bluray recorders are, well, blue (405nm) with the latter getting sort of kinda close to UV though probably not close enough.
> 
> I've never seen Lightscribe resolution mentioned anywhere but, given that the stepper-driven worm cannot position the diode sled better than approx. 0.15mm (20 steps per rev stepper directly coupled to a 3mm lead worm) the resolution would have been probably OK for PCB printing. Looks like it converts to 169 dpi which is decent enough. In fact, given that the DVD-R/RW optics are usually spec'ed as "better than 0.05mm beam" and the lens can adjust itself relative to the stepper-driven sled, the actual resolution may even be better than 169 dpi but I doubt they use precise adjustments for such a crude operation as burning a visible image on the back of a CD...
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Tim Hills <thills@> wrote:
> >
> > 2 things come to immediately to mind.
> > 
> > CD/DVD recorders use Infrared lasers and most photoresist is UV sensitive.
> > 
> > I don't know if the resolution of a lightscribe would be fine enough.
> > 
> > Worth a shot though if you can find IR sensitive resist.
> > 
> > TIm
> > 
> > On 4/13/2011 8:31, Boman33 wrote:
> > >
> > > Here is a crazy idea that might just work:
> > >
> > > A first requirement is being able to cut out a PCB the to look just like a
> > > CD. It needs to be accurate and typically a lathe would be used. Apply a
> > > layer of paint or other protective coating over the copper.
> > >
> > > Pop it into a CD burner that has the Light Scribe or whatever it is called
> > > feature to mark CDs. Take the layout and convert it to a JPG and use the
> > > marking software to place it on the CD. Several small SMT PCBs will fit on
> > > a CD. "Write" the picture to the "CD" and hopefully it will vaporize the
> > > paint. Afterwards etch the boards as usual.
> > >
> > > If the power is controllable, it might also be used to expose a 
> > > photoresist
> > > as an alternative.
> > >
> > > Bertho
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

> 
> 
> But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on upping the
> energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode (IR or blue) and
> trying  paint evaporation again. It may just work on a thinnest (0.7
> mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...
> 


I think you'd have a lot better luck with the laser on an X-Y gantry. Even then I don't think you could burn off resist with even a 1W diode, but I've thought about trying to make a photo plotter for UV resist.

Hi James,

Here is a youtube vid for a 1 watt blue laser.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Rl3w8nG1kU

Kevin I.





________________________________

From: James <jamesrsweet@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 21, 2011 3:55:17 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: CD shaped PCB

  

> 
> 
> But I do like the idea in principal and I am planning on upping the
> energy quite a bit by installing a 1W laser diode (IR or blue) and
> trying  paint evaporation again. It may just work on a thinnest (0.7
> mil's the thinnest?) PCB I can find...
> 

I think you'd have a lot better luck with the laser on an X-Y gantry. Even then 
I don't think you could burn off resist with even a 1W diode, but I've thought 
about trying to make a photo plotter for UV resist.


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]