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Table saw

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Slavko Kocjancic

S, Alessio Sangalli piše:
> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>
> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg
>
> Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I
> used it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.
>
> bye
> as
>


Huh... You can do better with freehand cutting.

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by David C. Partridge

You need to use the cutting guide - read the instructions


Regards,
David Partridge


-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
Sent: 18 March 2011 07:17
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the lopacki 8mil diamond blade.

Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:

http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg

Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I used it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.

bye
as



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Ryan Bray

you should have a guide attached you your table saw to prevent x-Axis slips.

On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:47 AM, David C. Partridge <
david.partridge@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
>
> You need to use the cutting guide - read the instructions
>
> Regards,
> David Partridge
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
> Sent: 18 March 2011 07:17
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw
>
> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>
> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg
>
> Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I used
> it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.
>
> bye
> as
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or
a sliding guide, with appropriate push sticks. I am a woodworker and free
hand cut cause people to lose fingers.

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ryan Bray
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:46 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Cc: David C. Partridge
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

you should have a guide attached you your table saw to prevent x-Axis slips.

On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:47 AM, David C. Partridge <
david.partridge@...> wrote:

>
>
> You need to use the cutting guide - read the instructions
>
> Regards,
> David Partridge
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
> Sent: 18 March 2011 07:17
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw
>
> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>
> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg
>
> Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I
used
> it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.
>
> bye
> as
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Erik Knise

I agree with Andy. Most fences don't go all the way down to the table
so use a piece of wood or angle iron/aluminum. Using your own fence
you can also line it up parallel with the blade as most fences on
cheap saws are not parallel to the blade.

Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Andrew Volk <amvweb@...> wrote:
> NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
> fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or
> a sliding guide, with appropriate push sticks. I am a woodworker and free
> hand cut cause people to lose fingers.
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Ryan Bray
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:46 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: David C. Partridge
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw
>
> you should have a guide attached you your table saw to prevent x-Axis slips.
>
> On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:47 AM, David C. Partridge <
> david.partridge@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> You need to use the cutting guide - read the instructions
>>
>> Regards,
>> David Partridge
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
>> Sent: 18 March 2011 07:17
>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw
>>
>> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
>> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>>
>> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>>
>> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
>> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg
>>
>> Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I
> used
>> it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.
>>
>> bye
>> as
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



--
Erik L. Knise
Pacific Shipping Company
Seattle, WA

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Erik Knise

On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 2:08 PM, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> On 03/18/2011 09:31 AM, Andrew Volk wrote:
>> NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
>> fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or
>
>
> Why do people even think I have not used read the manual:
>
> http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf
>
> Or done a free hand cut without the "fence"; here the video of what I did:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG61de0io6Q
>
> bye
> as
>

It does look like the board is going under the fence while you are
cutting. You had cut the video but it appears that you did not check
to see if the fence was parallel to the blade first either.

--
Erik L. Knise
Seattle, WA

Re: Table saw

2011-03-18 by designer_craig

First check that your blade is parallel to the fence. Then take some thin aluminum angle stock and mount it to the fence with one flange down against the table pointing to the blade. You place your board stock on top of the aluminum angle so it will not slip under the fense. Next thing is to push only on the secton of board between the blade and the fence, forcing it to stay against the fence. All looks like you are trying to cut too fast, slow down your feed rate let the blade do the work.

If it still will not cut straight then the motor arbor is moving off axis or in and out and will need to be rewworked.

Craig

Show quoted textHide quoted text
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
>
> On 03/18/2011 09:31 AM, Andrew Volk wrote:
> > NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
> > fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or
>
>
> Why do people even think I have not used read the manual:
>
> http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf
>
> Or done a free hand cut without the "fence"; here the video of what I did:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG61de0io6Q
>
> bye
> as
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk

Actually, I was responding to another poster's comment about doing it better
freehand. BAD IDEA!

It does look like your board is able to slip under the fence, and that is
bad in many ways. Consider putting a piece of wood or plastic under the
board that is thick enough not to get under the fence. This can be
sacrificial (cut with the board), or precut and fastened on either side of
the cut line to boost the board up.

Also, your technique of pushing the board through from the side of the blade
away from the fence will cause problems like binding. The material should
always be pushed between the fence and blade. This cannot be done safely
without a push stick or push block. These can be made from wood or plastic.
The best design holds the entire length of the board down and has a hook or
thin piece to catch the trailing edge of the board and push it through.
Look on-line for wood table saw safety accessories for ideas.

Keep safe!
Andy

_____

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 2:09 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw




On 03/18/2011 09:31 AM, Andrew Volk wrote:
> NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
> fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top)
or

Why do people even think I have not used read the manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf

Or done a free hand cut without the "fence"; here the video of what I did:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG61de0io6Q

bye
as






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Table saw

2011-03-18 by bebx2000

Your fence is misaligned. The pictures clearly show that you are cutting at an angle. I have the Qep 4" saw from Home Depot. It has tiny registration marks at each end of the fence, but you cannot rely on them. I had the same problem. Just use a square for alignment relative to the blade before you clamp the fence.

Baxter

Show quoted textHide quoted text
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
>
> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>
> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-18 by Alessio Sangalli

On 03/18/2011 02:34 PM, designer_craig wrote:
> First check that your blade is parallel to the fence. Then take some
> thin aluminum angle stock and mount it to the fence with one flange
> down against the table pointing to the blade. You place your board
> stock on top of the aluminum angle so it will not slip under the
> fense.

Hm... I think I understand but I am not sure :) Could you make a drawing...?


> Next thing is to push only on the secton of board between the
> blade and the fence, forcing it to stay against the fence.

Isn't that dangerous for the fingers?


Show quoted textHide quoted text
> All looks
> like you are trying to cut too fast, slow down your feed rate let the
> blade do the work.

I will surely slow down next time.

bye
as

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch

Hi AS

Sorrrrrrrrry, but when I look at the video, I just think one man is going to once get the piece into his body and/or cut his finger! Eventhough a carpenter does not cut 1.6mm epoxy, pay a visit to one and look how he does use his saw.

Jean-Claude, Switzerland


----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Alessio Sangalli
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw



On 03/18/2011 09:31 AM, Andrew Volk wrote:
> NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
> fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top) or

Why do people even think I have not used read the manual:

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf

Or done a free hand cut without the "fence"; here the video of what I did:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG61de0io6Q

bye
as





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Table saw

2011-03-18 by Mark Mickelsen

It is easy to see in the video that the board you are cutting is sliding
UNDERNEATH the rip fence. That's the problem.
Mark

Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:08 PM, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...>wrote:

>
>
> On 03/18/2011 09:31 AM, Andrew Volk wrote:
> > NEVER, NEVER, NEVER free hand cut anything on a table saw! Always use a
> > fixed fence set parallel to the blade (clamp a piece of wood to the top)
> or
>
> Why do people even think I have not used read the manual:
>
> http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/3000-3999/3733.pdf
>
> Or done a free hand cut without the "fence"; here the video of what I did:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG61de0io6Q
>
> bye
> as
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-18 by Andrew Volk

On 03/18/2011 02:34 PM, designer_craig wrote:
Isn't that dangerous for the fingers?


That is why you use a push block. It allows you to push in the proper place
while getting your fingers out of the way. A tall block of wood with a
small lip on the back edge to push the board is all you need.

Andy








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Eldon Brown

What happened to the good old High School Shop Classes??

Please be careful !!

Some Good Rules of the "uncut" Thumbs

1. Always keep the good section between the fence and the saw.
2. Never push the tail of a cut-off (scrap) section.
3. Always only push the piece between the fence and the saw.
4. Always use a Push Block that covers the material and that has a small
hook to laps over the near side of the material, the hook should be shorter
than the thickness of the material being cut.
5. Hold down and push the Push Block along and against the fence.
6. Never reach over, behind, or near the blade to retrieve scraps, stop the
saw.
7. Never use a fence to do a cross cut, use a miter slide, a cross cut is
where the resulting cut is on the shortest side of the resulting scrap.

Please be careful !!

|--------------------------------/ /---------- 8 or more inches ----|
|
|
| PUSH BLOCK,
| Used to push and hold down PCB material
|
|
|_-------------------------/ / -----------------


^--------- Note: the hook on this end, which is used to push PCB material,
the PUSH BLOCK should be taller then fingers are long (maybe 4 to 5 inches),
length typically 8 inches long, width typically 3/4 inch.

A good Push Block has a hump on the top that fits in the palm of your hand.

To align the first cut with the PCB art work, clamp the PCB between to
straight boards, align the art work with the scrap edge sticking out between
the boards, use at least 4 screws from below for clamping. The boards should
cover and be wider then the non-scrap side of the PCB material. Use the
fence and Push Block to make a straight cut.


Please Be Careful !!!


Eldon - WA0UWH (still with all of my fingers)


Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Andrew Volk <amvweb@...> wrote:

>
>
>
>
> On 03/18/2011 02:34 PM, designer_craig wrote:
> Isn't that dangerous for the fingers?
>
>
> That is why you use a push block. It allows you to push in the proper place
> while getting your fingers out of the way. A tall block of wood with a
> small lip on the back edge to push the board is all you need.
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli

On 03/18/2011 06:41 PM, Eldon Brown wrote:

> What happened to the good old High School Shop Classes??

In my country at hihg scholl we only did:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaper
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill#Drill_press
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milling_machine



Show quoted textHide quoted text
> To align the first cut with the PCB art work, clamp the PCB between to
> straight boards, align the art work with the scrap edge sticking out between
> the boards, use at least 4 screws from below for clamping. The boards should
> cover and be wider then the non-scrap side of the PCB material. Use the
> fence and Push Block to make a straight cut.

I'll try to look for a video online to see if I have understood

bye
as

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli

On 03/18/2011 07:01 PM, Alessio Sangalli wrote:

> In my country at hihg scholl we only did:

Sorry for the typos. We also study English, but I was typing while
holding my son :)

PS apparently the table saw comes with something called "a pusg block"
it's made of plastic and it's the one depicted here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_9251.jpg

Do you think it's of any value?

bye
as

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Andrew Volk

I don't think that that push block has much value for things less than 3
inches wide. It is okay for tile, maybe. The drawing that Eldon sent is a
better one to use. It doesn't have to be that long for the tile saw you are
using. I'd say something that is a bit longer than the diameter of the
blade is okay and high enough to keep your fingers away from the blade.

Andy

_____

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alessio Sangalli
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 7:24 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw




On 03/18/2011 07:01 PM, Alessio Sangalli wrote:

> In my country at hihg scholl we only did:

Sorry for the typos. We also study English, but I was typing while
holding my son :)

PS apparently the table saw comes with something called "a pusg block"
it's made of plastic and it's the one depicted here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78e
ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_9251.jpg

Do you think it's of any value?

bye
as





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Alessio Sangalli

On 03/18/2011 09:04 PM, Andrew Volk wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text
> better one to use. It doesn't have to be that long for the tile saw you are

thanks.

Now I have a request for who is already using the tile saw for PCB:
would you make a small video for the generations to come?

bye
as

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Table saw

2011-03-19 by Tony Smith

> PS apparently the table saw comes with something called "a pusg block"
> it's made of plastic and it's the one depicted here:
>
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78e
ab
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_9251.jpg
>
> Do you think it's of any value?


Very valuable if you like your fingers. You use that instead of your hands
to push the wood.

Not useful for thin stuff like PCBs. For that you should use the mitre
gauge, that's the bit that slides in the groove.

Tony

Re: Table saw

2011-03-21 by Mike

Perhaps try mounting the pcb on a thin sheet of plywood to give more control? And yes, try setting or clamping a guide wall on the other side of the blade that is one panel away from the blade. Press the board firmly against the guide while sliding it through, that should help keep the cuts true.

Mike

Show quoted textHide quoted text
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alessio Sangalli <alesan@...> wrote:
>
> Hi finally tonight I tried the table saw (Harbor Freight one) with the
> lopacki 8mil diamond blade.
>
> Unfortunately, all cuts were not parallel:
>
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test01.jpg
> http://www.manoweb.com/alesan/temp/tablesaw/test02.jpg
>
> Advices? I read I might have to go slower... will that do the trick? I
> used it wet. A bit splashy but no dust at all.
>
> bye
> as
>