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[Homebrew_PCBs] Laser Cut PCB's

[Homebrew_PCBs] Laser Cut PCB's

2011-01-12 by Andrew Leech

Here's another interesting method. Simple if you happen to have the
right tools around (I don't), even if probably only suitable for a
somewhat limited range of simple stuff.

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/01/laser_cutting_circuit_boards.html

Would probably work equally well (if not better) with a vinyl cutter.

Andrew

Re: Laser Cut PCB's

2011-01-12 by steve

Just wondering if that conductive paint could be used in an ink jet
printer?

Steve

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Laser Cut PCB's

2011-01-12 by Mark Lerman

I'm not sure I would like to try to solder to this stuff - it seems 
to be a sort of conductive latex paint.

At 12:04 AM 1/12/2011, you wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>Here's another interesting method. Simple if you happen to have the
>right tools around (I don't), even if probably only suitable for a
>somewhat limited range of simple stuff.
>
>http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/01/laser_cutting_circuit_boards.html
>
>Would probably work equally well (if not better) with a vinyl cutter.
>
>Andrew
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Laser Cut PCB's

2011-01-12 by Andrew Leech

On 13/01/2011, at 12:00 AM, steve wrote:

> Just wondering if that conductive paint could be used in an ink jet
> printer?
> 
> Steve
> 
> 

I've used conductive paint a few times and the stuff I'm used to is basically silver particles suspended in a thin lacquer, although you can get thicker version, including spray on versions, designed for spraying rf shielding onto insides of boxes.
The biggest problem with printing will be the size of the silver particles, followed by the problem that in the thin lacquer version at least the silver will settle in the jar and need significant shaking to mix it up prior to use.

And yeah soldering to it would be a bit of an issue, it can be done but it has basically zero mechanical strength, and would burn off given a chance. Another bonding option would be conductive epoxy, although it's slower to build obviously, and a little less reworkable.

Andrew

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