Homebrew PCBs

Where do you buy PCB eyelets? What sizes are available and what's the  
cost?

Keystone has them:  http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp

-- 
Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
www.elanengr.com
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003

On 26-Jan-10, at 1:10 PM, Paul Mateer wrote:

Keystone has them: http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp

-Reply:



Sorry, no good. A wide flange eyelet is useless for dip packages  
because their flanges would overlap each other. Are there any other  
sources that don't insist on UPS and their extra charges?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 27/01/2010 02:55, Terry Mickelson wrote:
>
> On 26-Jan-10, at 1:10 PM, Paul Mateer wrote:
>
> Keystone has them: http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp
>
> -Reply:
>
>
>
> Sorry, no good. A wide flange eyelet is useless for dip packages
> because their flanges would overlap each other. Are there any other
> sources that don't insist on UPS and their extra charges?


Try Multicore Copperset:

http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/datasheets/data/Multicore/Wave%20Soldering/Acessories/Through%20Hole%20Repair%20Kit/Tech%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

The kits are expensive, though.

Leon

Is there any place to get just a few eyelets to test out?  Heck, even at 10 or 20 samples would keep me going for a while - I only make 2 to 4 boards/month - and each of those usually have 3 or 4 vias.

Thanks for any guidance to a source.

Ken H.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:

>
> On 27/01/2010 02:55, Terry Mickelson wrote:
> >
> > On 26-Jan-10, at 1:10 PM, Paul Mateer wrote:
> >
> > Keystone has them: http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp
> >
> > -Reply:
> >
> >
> >
> > Sorry, no good. A wide flange eyelet is useless for dip packages
> > because their flanges would overlap each other. Are there any other
> > sources that don't insist on UPS and their extra charges?
> 
> 
> Try Multicore Copperset:
> 
> http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/datasheets/data/Multicore/Wave%20Soldering/Acessories/Through%20Hole%20Repair%20Kit/Tech%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
> 
> The kits are expensive, though.
> 
> Leon
>

A shop that sells bungard eyelets in smaller quantities is SMDshop in the netherlands:

http://smdshop.nl/index.php?language=en

http://smdshop.nl/index.php?cPath=47

They are called rivets there, and there are three main sizes. I use them a lot for my boards where needed. I have no idea what international shipping costs.

Speaking of those solder filled tubes for via's, would it be possible to take some ordinary solder and electroplate a layer of copper on this? I regenerate my sodium persulphate with a platinum and copper electrode, and the copper electrode is encrusted with copper, so it does not plate evenly. You need some chemicals called brighteners. Any idea what those are for copper?

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
> Is there any place to get just a few eyelets to test out?  Heck, even at 10 or 20 samples would keep me going for a while - I only make 2 to 4 boards/month - and each of those usually have 3 or 4 vias.
> 
> Thanks for any guidance to a source.
> 
> Ken H.

You can also try very small stranded wire ferrules (also called
bootlace ferrules in the US).
Even the smallest size might be too large for your purpose, but I've
used them this way.

ST

On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 5:59 AM, sailingto <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> Is there any place to get just a few eyelets to test out?  Heck, even at 10 or 20 samples would keep me going for a while - I only make 2 to 4 boards/month - and each of those usually have 3 or 4 vias.
>
> Thanks for any guidance to a source.
>
> Ken H.
>

To Ken

I might have some in the shop. I will try to get a picture off to you today.
They are marked. :International Eyelets, Inc" F-4093-c, F-6093-c

Bob

On 1/27/2010 8:59 PM, sailingto wrote:
> Is there any place to get just a few eyelets to test out?  Heck, even at 10 or 20 samples would keep me going for a while - I only make 2 to 4 boards/month - and each of those usually have 3 or 4 vias.
>
> Thanks for any guidance to a source.
>
> Ken H.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Leon Heller<leon355@...>  wrote:
>    
>> On 27/01/2010 02:55, Terry Mickelson wrote:
>>      
>>> On 26-Jan-10, at 1:10 PM, Paul Mateer wrote:
>>>
>>> Keystone has them: http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp
>>>
>>> -Reply:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry, no good. A wide flange eyelet is useless for dip packages
>>> because their flanges would overlap each other. Are there any other
>>> sources that don't insist on UPS and their extra charges?
>>>        
>>
>> Try Multicore Copperset:
>>
>> http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/datasheets/data/Multicore/Wave%20Soldering/Acessories/Through%20Hole%20Repair%20Kit/Tech%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
>>
>> The kits are expensive, though.
>>
>> Leon
>>
>>      
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

WOW!!!  Bob, you sure do come thru everytime I'm in a lurch!  I just hope I can repay in kind someday.....  AND that dinner invite is ALWAYS open for some good Gulf Coast Shrimp... or maybe boiled crawfish?

Thanks,

Ken H>


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Bob Huish <bhuish@...> wrote:

>
> To Ken
> 
> I might have some in the shop. I will try to get a picture off to you today.
> They are marked. :International Eyelets, Inc" F-4093-c, F-6093-c
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> On 1/27/2010 8:59 PM, sailingto wrote:
> > Is there any place to get just a few eyelets to test out?  Heck, even at 10 or 20 samples would keep me going for a while - I only make 2 to 4 boards/month - and each of those usually have 3 or 4 vias.
> >
> > Thanks for any guidance to a source.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Leon Heller<leon355@>  wrote:
> >    
> >> On 27/01/2010 02:55, Terry Mickelson wrote:
> >>      
> >>> On 26-Jan-10, at 1:10 PM, Paul Mateer wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Keystone has them: http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/eyeletspec.asp
> >>>
> >>> -Reply:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Sorry, no good. A wide flange eyelet is useless for dip packages
> >>> because their flanges would overlap each other. Are there any other
> >>> sources that don't insist on UPS and their extra charges?
> >>>        
> >>
> >> Try Multicore Copperset:
> >>
> >> http://www.prime-electronics.com.au/datasheets/data/Multicore/Wave%20Soldering/Acessories/Through%20Hole%20Repair%20Kit/Tech%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
> >>
> >> The kits are expensive, though.
> >>
> >> Leon
> >>
> >>      
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

boombox666 wrote:

> 
> Speaking of those solder filled tubes for via's, would it be possible
> to take some ordinary solder and electroplate a layer of copper on
> this? I regenerate my sodium persulphate with a platinum and copper
> electrode, and the copper electrode is encrusted with copper, so it
> does not plate evenly. You need some chemicals called brighteners. Any
> idea what those are for copper?

Electric regeneration of sodium persulphate etchant is really possible?
You do it like this?
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/32177-new-pcb-etching-soultion.html#post668383

>From all etchant descriptions i ever read, this one really pleases me.
But no more info anywhere. Any academic paper about this. Or any other
information that can sustain the web post. From this group i got what
convinced me to forget it. CuCl initiated with a peace of metal copper
in acid and peroxide and regenerated with air, is the best thing around,
but don't let me do things like i want to.
So the regeneration of sodium persulfate is possible? It works like the
post? Can you give me further info? 


About rivets, true plating chemistry can be more simple to use than
rivets/eyelets, soldered wires, conductive ink or mechanic activation
(drilling pcb above a conductive powder and letting drill spread it on
the hole wall). The chemistry may seem crazy difficult as theory but
using it is just simple as dip in a few baths one after the other and
thousand's of holes are plated in less than 1 hour, with no work. 

Brightener and other additives are used in any plating system. My
readings are only about pcb applications so there goes what i know:

Brightener, catalyst, leveler and suppressor additives work on the
copper plating of trough holes, because end quality and the chemical
complexity required to plate enough copper on the higher resistant
activated hole wall, than on the more conductive pcb copper surface
(throwing power). 

The thing works like this, after hole activation by means of dipping the
board in any the many palladium, conductive polymer or carbon/graphite
chemistries. The hole still have relative resistance, about 100ohm per
hole in the best chemistries, its them copper plated, but it still
difficult on the copper plating. Plating (slow) at low current can give
enough throwing power for an homebrew.
The first comercial chemistry in the direct plating field used the
palladium activation from a electroless chemistry, but instead the
electroless plating it used an copper electroplating with a suppressor
(PEG) mixed in. Because it 'flows' with the electric current and
deposits more in the higher conductive places, making those spots more
resistive and so distributes the current trough all the immersed
surface. 

Further direct plating chemistries changed to low sulphuric acid and
high copper to increase throwing power. But with it the problems starts.
The copper anode faces difficult to soluble problems, because of it,
catalyst is added (HCl or NaCl). But then copper dissolves in big
chunks, phosphoric containing anodes are used to maintain a 'oxide' like
equally resistive across surface. Anode bags of fine propylene fabric
used to keep copper chunks in electric contact to anode. But still the
electric current in Cl containing bath is difficult to control. To get
>3V potencial between anode and cathode to archive quality plating a
leveler is added, working with the Cl ions in a more proportional
voltage vs current setup.

In the hazard electroless chemistry after enough copper been deposit in
the holes it can go to a eletroplating bath up to desired copper thick.
Holes have same low resistance than surface so can be used normal copper
plating (easier to use high sulphuric acid and low copper).

Copper electroplating Brighter is a copper chelating agent like in metal
poisoning meds for example. DMPS is the most used molecule. It makes the
plated particles smaller in size, so it will look brighter and should be
used because the higher quality of the plated surface. I think it works
by acting as a 'transportation agent', one ion at time. Older patents
refer the use of thiourea, but it is plated with copper and increases
plated metal resistance, and should not be used at all, actual manuals
even refer maximum nitrogen values. Adding sugar to the sulfuric plating
bath is written across the web but it only reacts with sulfuric acid
decreasing sulfuric acid content in the bath.

Additives explained! Or at least how i got to understand them... 




PS
There are simpler setups than the ones explained above. To the people
interested, and to not make this look so scary:

To avoid the complexity of the low acid plating setup with chemical
control, there are electronic control setups (simple for an electronics
homebrew). The better one I now found is just like an ideia i have
abandoned in the past: insoluble material to make electric contact to
pure copper scrap,  liquid flow by means of a pump with filter, (pump
from anode to cathode) flow from cathode to anode, but it only work by
adding an inorganic additive considered an efficiency killer in normal
setup. The redox of the metal additive in contact with the copper makes
the all thing great. I will dig a bit more before posting. But its not
cheaper or easier to build. And is used in via filling. Filling the
holes in minutes with few copper plated on pcb surface.


The activation chemistries are explained here
http://nr.stpi.org.tw/ejournal/proceedingA/v23n3/365-368.pdf
http://books.google.com/books?id=g9Q8RekeKaAC&pg=SA30-PA1&lpg=SA30-PA1

More significant palladium Patents to an homebrew:
Direct plating system, Okabayashi 1991-93  (SOLUTION TECHNOLOGY SYSTEMS
Redlands CA)
US4933010 Sensitizing activator composition for chemical plating
US5071517 Method for directly electroplating a dielectric substrate and
plated substrate so produced
US5268088 Simplified method for direct electroplating of acrylic or
epoxy containing dielectric substrates
US5262042 Simplified method for direct electroplating of dielectric
substrates

Neopact 1994 (Atotech)
Pd/PVP nanoparticles which is even more advanced and easier stuff but no
enough info 
US6325910 Palladium colloid solution and its utilization

I have used a very simple chemistry that looks like this:
cleaner/conditioner 65�C --- etanolamine 3g/L; polyethylene glycol
trimethylnonyl ether (non ionic surfactant/wetting) 1.5g/L; (with a bit
of vanillin and NaCl predip)
pre-dip ---- NaCL 250g/L; HCl <1%
Activator ---- NaCl 250g/L; SnCl 25g/l; PdCl 0.2g/L; HCl <1%
Accelerator 40�C ---- K2CO3 220g/L; NaOH 10g/L; CuSO4 0,2g/L; H2SO4 <1%
(can be done with NaHCO3/Na2CO3/K2CO3/NaOH/KOH, copper mandatory)

I finally can know explain it but its written on the patents anyway. For
all the chemistry types about 45 patents have to be read.

Other (great) example is Adam Sheychell Homebrew carbon black setup,
with gelatin as a wetting agent, carbon paste and vinegar as activator,
and a food dye that i don't know what it makes, but it should be a
fixer.  
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/150
Is not much like the patents. The hole resistance may end high, making
things difficult in the copper plating, but is a big proof that this is
not difficult for an homebrew. Although this one is not that easier to
run.

For the copper plating setup one may read:
http://books.google.com/books?id=g9Q8RekeKaAC&pg=SA29-PA6&lpg=SA29-PA6


Commercially speaking: from many, many suppliers, in Holland you can
find ENTHONE,  their Direct Metallization System ENVISION HDI is
thiophene conductive polymer based. But their Electroless Copper
Processing (activator only, ENVISION  2061 Clean-Condition / 2095
Pre-dip / 2105 Activation / 2110  Accelerator) is paladium tin based
similar to the one above. 
Same for FLORIDA CIRTECH OMEGA II PROCESS. Same for ELECTROCHEMICALS
(electroless activator only, Cleaner/Conditioner ML-373; Pre-Dip PD-472;
Catalyst C-473; Accelerator A-676). 
Rohm&Haas Cunductron/Crimson are a bit different. The original STS set
is sold by OSTECH now. The APT ABC set only has a fake web page. But
many others around, mega and bungard are *resellers*.

http://www.enthone.com/pwb/index.aspx
http://www.floridacirtech.com/Databases/pdfs/OMEGA%20II%20VERTICAL.pdf 
http://www.os-tech.com/chemistry.htm 
http://www.electrochemicals.com/ecframe.html


Big mail but full of info, no?

Simao Cardoso wrote: 
> boombox666 wrote:
> >I regenerate my sodium persulphate with a platinum and copper electrode,

> But no more info anywhere. Any academic paper about this. 


After sleep i give it a try, but instead a simple google search, i found
what seems to be it, with google academic, going between references.

Patent from 1972 Benjamin E. Nayder (Western electric Inc NY)
US3843504 Method of continuously regenerating and recycling a spent
etching solution

I will read it later...
Thanks in advance.


BTW My last post lacked this link:
http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/pwb/tech_rep/ctech/index.htm
Which compare activation methods.

And when i said resistance/resistant/whatever i always mean electric
resistance not material hardness or so.

Sim�o

Hi All
 
Many years ago Tucker Eyelets in the UK made a tinned copper eyelet  type 
L762 that I used with DIL ICs and other leaded components. They still have  
the tools but want a large order to make some more.
 
More recently I did come across a manufacturer of similar eyelets in  USA 
and will try and locate the information for posting.
 
Regards

Bob

Bob F Burns
Amateur  Radio Callsign: G3OOU
G-QRP Member No: 6907; QRA: IO91WH; WAB: TQ25
Joint  web site with Crystal Palace Radio & Electronics Club: 
_www.g3oou.co.uk_ (http://www.g3oou.co.uk/) 
Technical web site: _www.qsl.net/g3oou _ (http://www.qsl.net/g3oou) 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Simao Cardoso <simaocardoso@...> wrote:
> Electric regeneration of sodium persulphate etchant is really possible?
> You do it like this?
> http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/32177-new-pcb-etching-soultion.html#post668383
> 
> >From all etchant descriptions i ever read, this one really pleases me.
> But no more info anywhere. Any academic paper about this. Or any other
> information that can sustain the web post. From this group i got what
> convinced me to forget it. CuCl initiated with a peace of metal copper
> in acid and peroxide and regenerated with air, is the best thing around,
> but don't let me do things like i want to.
> So the regeneration of sodium persulfate is possible? It works like the
> post? Can you give me further info? 
> 

I have used the exact same post as basis for my experiment, and I have talked with the poster (contacted him directly).

I have found some patents on electrolytic production of persulfates:

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/2589982.pdf
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4144144.pdf

Well to tell you the truth, I have tried it the first time. And it did not work as expected, but I do believe it should work. The solution afterwards was devoid of copper but had reduced etching power, it took a long time to etch. 

My first setup was basically partially spent sodium persulfate etching solution, a small platinum electrode and a piece of circuit board as the copper. The reason for the failure is the absence of sulfuric acid that needs to be there in the solution as a starter.

For the constant current power supply I use a small mc34063 switcher in constant current step down mode with a potmeter to adjust the current.

The platinum electrode can be gotten at this ebay shop for cheap. It is a bit small, but usable.

http://stores.ebay.com/teaybkk

This electrode specifically:

http://shop.ebay.com/160369927325

Today I will try out the second time but because I do not have any sulphuric acid nearby. Today I will get some battery acid and mix in some copper sulphate crystals in the mix to get the required SO4 ions as described in the patents and retry. 

As soon I know more I will post it here.

The reason I use sodium persulfate is because it has better under etching properties then CuCl and because it is almost acid free. HCl has corroded some tools nearby so I have stopped using it.

> 
> Big mail but full of info, no?
>

Thank you so much for the big post. I am looking into copper plating solder wire to create the solder filled eyelets at home.

The reason I do not go with trough hole plating baths is mostly the price and the space to maintain baths.

Greetings,

Bart

boombox666 wrote: 
> 
> I have used the exact same post as basis for my experiment, and I have
> talked with the poster (contacted him directly).
> 
> I have found some patents on electrolytic production of persulfates:

The patent i found is very difficult for me to read. Not easy for a
chemistry ignorant and non English speaker. 

Thanks for posting yours findings. I get that ammonium persulfate
regeneration can be done, sodium persulfate is in the very difficult
area. Can be done by special setup and additives. Is required high
currents, controlled temperature and have low efficiency (water
hydrolysis and anode waste). Is written that adding crazy things make it
possible, and 4% ammonium persulfate can give some efficiency for what
we both want.

> My first setup was basically partially spent sodium persulfate etching
> solution, a small platinum electrode and a piece of circuit board as
> the copper. The reason for the failure is the absence of sulfuric acid
> that needs to be there in the solution as a starter.
> For the constant current power supply I use a small mc34063 switcher
> in constant current step down mode with a potmeter to adjust the
> current.

You seem to use very low currents. Both the anode and the psu seem short
for the application. That anode has very small area. Just guessing but
seems difficult getting 5A without surpass the maximum anode current
density. And the thing should work better if used during etch. 

> 
> The platinum electrode can be gotten at this ebay shop for cheap. It
> is a bit small, but usable.

Is the same anode i looked, when thought of this! And the seller
continuous to sell cyanide gold electroplating stuff! I wonder how it be
in customs: "Ohh thats not drugs, i never buy such thing, it's super
poisonous cyanide!"

I believe that a large pure titanium sheet, in such low concentration of
acid, should do for anode. Large enough for a low current density. But
the patents say 33-100A sq dm, the titanium shouldn't go much upper than
5....

The titanium is the way i intent to go in the pulsed copper plating,
with redox additive. And using eBay 'Mean Well' Chinese branded PSUs. I
have 2 for other things and both have a DC side pwm controller with
current sensing included. It looks simple to modify with potmeters (and
better than Markus Zingg light dimmer on AC).


> As soon I know more I will post it here.

Thanks i appreciate it. But be aware that such slow etchant can't worth
much time and cost.

> 
> Thank you so much for the big post. I am looking into copper plating
> solder wire to create the solder filled eyelets at home.
> 
> The reason I do not go with trough hole plating baths is mostly the
> price and the space to maintain baths.

That copper plated solder don't seems easier than solder wires through.
And don't invent things for brightener! Go with a simple bath, high acid
or one the alkaline setups.  Better just use CuSO4 and your platinum
anode in low current. 

The plating setup is not a elephant :> Can be placed in one shelf. May
need to remove/move other shelf stand if not between-stands enough
hight, the space of one stand for the tanks and the upper space for
moving boards around. The only problem with it is if chemistry
maintenance is necessary, thats why i try choose it wisely. The copper
plating bath (the most tricky) could give good enough results without
additives in the setup i wrote about before.

If one don't go to bungard or mega the chemistry prices start at 300eur
for 5L tanks and half is enough. It's not much compared to building the
setup that cost about 500eur. Anyway I have that value thought for setup
and chemistry...


Sim�o

--- Terry Mickelson wrote:
> Where do you buy PCB eyelets? What sizes are available and what's 
> the cost?

This is my favorite vendor: http://www.intl-eyelets.com/

In addition to making all kinds, types and sizes of eyelets, they 
also make an extremely useful tool, a "drill mill". It is like a
miniature hole cutter. You clamp a #60 drill inside it, and it not
only drills the component lead hole, but it also mills out a perfect
pad out of blank PCB material. Available in diameters of 0.1, 0.15
and 0.2 inch.  They are one of the most useful tricks in my shop.
http://www.intl-eyelets.com/products/drill.html

I wonder if they could make via-pins?  Just a simple pre-cut wire with
a flange on one end, designed to press-fit into a 13.5 mil hole and be
soldered on both sides.

I suppose it would be easy enough to buy 13.5 mil wire (or slightly
larger?), and cut it to length with some shearing action that left a
bend on the top...

Actually they do make those pins exactly for this purpose.

They are tapered and come connected end to end as a little rod, you
simply break them off one by one.

I do not recall where I saw them.

ST

On Wed, Feb 10, 2010 at 7:36 PM, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
>
> I wonder if they could make via-pins?  Just a simple pre-cut wire with
> a flange on one end, designed to press-fit into a 13.5 mil hole and be
> soldered on both sides.
>
> I suppose it would be easy enough to buy 13.5 mil wire (or slightly
> larger?), and cut it to length with some shearing action that left a
> bend on the top...
>
>

Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> writes:
> They are tapered and come connected end to end as a little rod, you
> simply break them off one by one.

I've seen big ones for 1/16" board.  I want small ones for 1/32"
board.

I bout some, some 20 years ago probably from an Electronics distributer called Priority 1 Electronics.  I don't think they are around anymore.  They could have been made by Vector Electronics.

They were just as you said. Came in strips of about 10-20 and the broke off easily.  Like small tacks.  One on top of the other.

--- On Wed, 2/10/10, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:

From: DJ Delorie <dj@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Printed circuit board eyelets
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, February 10, 2010, 1:36 PM







 



  


    
      
      
      

I wonder if they could make via-pins?  Just a simple pre-cut wire with

a flange on one end, designed to press-fit into a 13.5 mil hole and be

soldered on both sides.



I suppose it would be easy enough to buy 13.5 mil wire (or slightly

larger?), and cut it to length with some shearing action that left a

bend on the top...



    
     

    
    


 



  






      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

http://www.delorenzo.com.mx/prods_i/prods/proto/through/index.htm

http://www.t-tech.com/order/category.asp?sectionid=2&catid=65&catname=Thru+Hole+Materials



--- On Thu, 2/11/10, KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...> wrote:

From: KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...m>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Printed circuit board eyelets
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 10:20 PM







 



  


    
      
      
      I bout some, some 20 years ago probably from an Electronics distributer called Priority 1 Electronics.  I don't think they are around anymore.  They could have been made by Vector Electronics.



They were just as you said. Came in strips of about 10-20 and the broke off easily.  Like small tacks.  One on top of the other.



--- On Wed, 2/10/10, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:



From: DJ Delorie <dj@...>

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Printed circuit board eyelets

To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Wednesday, February 10, 2010, 1:36 PM



 



I wonder if they could make via-pins?  Just a simple pre-cut wire with



a flange on one end, designed to press-fit into a 13.5 mil hole and be



soldered on both sides.



I suppose it would be easy enough to buy 13.5 mil wire (or slightly



larger?), and cut it to length with some shearing action that left a



bend on the top...



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KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...> writes:

> http://www.delorenzo.com.mx/prods_i/prods/proto/through/index.htm
> 
> http://www.t-tech.com/order/category.asp?sectionid=2&catid=65&catname=Thru+Hole+Materials

Yup, I know about those.  They're huge compared to what I normally
solder in for vias.  I'm looking for something designed to work with a
13.5 mil drilled hole (0.34 mm).