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Milling m/c bug

Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by starsnstripes_2003

Ok, all this talk has given me the bug to build a milling machine
for pc boards. Something that will be semi-precision.
Maybe some of you guys can offer some good tips for building an X/Y
table?
I am a poor person and want to hold cost down as much as possible,
so ideas like the "Drawer Slide" linear motion bearings are greatly
appreciated!

Slides:
I'm not sure how much play are in those drawer bearings. Probably a
lot. I'll have to look for some good ones, or maybe make my own
slides from brass or UHMW channels. I've dealt with different types
of gibs and round shaft/ball bushings before, so can probably figure
out something that is semi-precision at low-cost.

Linear Motion drives:
Stepper motors are the obvious low-cost solution, but I'll need to
find some good resources for cheap parts that will work properly as
a complete system.
True servos? Better but not as available as "surplus" ?
Either one would of course need suitable controllers and software.
I can write some software (VB and Perl) but I think some
shareware/freeware is available to handle conversion from different
CAD programs...
Then I'll need to fabricate the mechanical drive portions: Leadscrew
or Timing Belt like printers?

Design parameters:
What are the largest boards I should allow for in the x and y axis
travel? 8", 12"?

Anyone who has experience with such things, please chime in if you
know of some good sources for info or parts!

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Markus Zingg

>Ok, all this talk has given me the bug to build a milling machine
>for pc boards. Something that will be semi-precision.
>Maybe some of you guys can offer some good tips for building an X/Y
>table?
>I am a poor person and want to hold cost down as much as possible,
>so ideas like the "Drawer Slide" linear motion bearings are greatly
>appreciated!
>
>Slides:
>I'm not sure how much play are in those drawer bearings. Probably a
>lot. I'll have to look for some good ones, or maybe make my own
>slides from brass or UHMW channels. I've dealt with different types
>of gibs and round shaft/ball bushings before, so can probably figure
>out something that is semi-precision at low-cost.

During the last two months I was lurking around in hardware stores a
lot, keeping my eyes open what of their articles could be used for a
CNC drilling machine. As part of this I also took a close look at
drawer slides. Some of them are definately precise enough to build a
PCB drilling machine with them. Another interesting "slide" kind of
constuction are the slides used for cupboards. All in all I think it's
very easy to build such a machine if the goal is drilling PCB holes or
milling PCB's only. Lot's of options to build a very stiff
construction. I.e. legs of tables, gas tubes, laths like they use to
flatten out concrete (they come in all kind of shapes are made of
aluminium profiles) U shaped aluminium profiles etc. etc. It all boils
down to keep the eyes open.

>Linear Motion drives:
>Stepper motors are the obvious low-cost solution, but I'll need to
>find some good resources for cheap parts that will work properly as
>a complete system.

e-bay. There are always very cheap steppers available on e-bay.

>True servos? Better but not as available as "surplus" ?

I don't think they would be up to the tast torque wise.

>Either one would of course need suitable controllers and software.
>I can write some software (VB and Perl) but I think some
>shareware/freeware is available to handle conversion from different
>CAD programs...

Software should not be the problem as long as you keep the controller
interface (provided you build your own) compatible with what seems
like standard pin layout. There are also enough cheap controllers
available on e-bay and sometimes there are sets consisting of
controllers and stepper motors. Some of such sets even come with the
software to use.

>Then I'll need to fabricate the mechanical drive portions: Leadscrew
>or Timing Belt like printers?

I will start to build my own machine shortly. I decided to use simple
threaded rods, steppers along with drawer slides. Ok, due to the fact
that I'm etching / through hole plating my boards, it boils down to
drilling only which is really not so demanding.

>Design parameters:
>What are the largest boards I should allow for in the x and y axis
>travel? 8", 12"?

This one is easy. Ask yourself what the biggest board will be that you
are doing yourself... :)

>Anyone who has experience with such things, please chime in if you
>know of some good sources for info or parts!

There are MANY sources in the internet. However I get the impresion
that it's not really needed to buy "plans" etc. if you have some
skills with mechanical stuff and if you take the time to see what's
available in your area that can be used. I simply walk through
different hardware stores with my eyes open during the last months and
I must say I saw so many things that can be used that a finished
"plan" may would make things harder. It's all important to understand
the basic principles of how cnc works and there you go. Even if you do
a mistake here and there, if you only use cheap parts from a hardware
store, but do it on your own you will have the skills and posibilities
to correct your design until it works fine.

Just my 2¢ though.

Markus

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Stefan Trethan

i would use steppers.
much easier than servos i think (cheaper etc).

i would also use lead screws, not timing belts.
i would use standard metric srews (with tapered thread) and use 2 nuts on
the moving part.
on nut fixed, the other in a "sliding" tube (maybe you find hex tube or can
make it.)
i would load the second nut with a strong spring against the fixed one so
that all play is eliminated.
the metric thread is self-centering also if the 2 nuts are spring loaded
against each other.

to couple the allthread rods with the steppers you can use a simple piece
of high pressure hose.
this resists to twist enough for precision... it damps vibrations and
imperfections in alignment will be no problem.
direct drive works fine with strong steppers, i have seen this on the web
often (using m8, maybe m6 allthreads).

you need to bear the allthreads properly. it is important to get rid of any
play.
maybe it will work fine with standard ball bearings with a little side
pressure by spring or so.
(make on side of the allthread beared fixed and the other bearing pull away
to help straightening the rod...
but tapered bearings would be much better (but harder to get, more
expensive).


i have seen rails of aluminium and other material which use multiple small
ball bearings
directly as wheels on which carry the moving part.
one of this wheels if spring loaded sometimes.


i would very like to use round rails and three rolls.
but i have no idea where to get good precicion pipes as rails...


currently i am busy with a lot of things, one of them building my rc
plane...
if i had more time i would definitely think about building such a unit too.
i would like to have it for automated drilling...

i would too like to have a cnc foam wing cutter (hard to do for me by hand)
but this is a different thing... (but maybe use same rails etc....



i did not even know that i have thought about a cnc so much and remembered
all this things i read.....
maybe this evening i will have a look at the steel/aluminium material i
have here and if there are any parts precise enough for rails.
but i fear i won't find anything.......







have you sorted out the software things?
i can make a stepper driver but i WON'T MAKE ANY SOFTWARE!.
not that i couldn't, i simply hate this programming things.. i did a lot
more in the past, therefore i know many languages...
but i hate it now for some unknown reason.....


i would need to have all software ready to accept DXF or HPGL , DXF
preferred and gerber and the standard drill format (excellon maybe?).
if you know of that software (maybe a link) please tell me the name...
i will not start building (like the "plotting with resist pen" ) only to
discover later that all softwrare is scrap...



hmm i start to like the idea of a cnc foam wing cutter and not longer
trying that by hand.....


@markus:
i don't like the drawer slide thing too much... maybe i am thinking of the
wrong slides, may you take a picture with your cam?
thanks....




ok, only a few (long, boring) thoughts...


regards
stefan

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Markus Zingg

>@markus:
>i don't like the drawer slide thing too much... maybe i am thinking of the
>wrong slides, may you take a picture with your cam?
>thanks....

@Stefan

I haven't bought them yet. I saw them at "Hornbach" - a huge german
hardware store that opened an outlet near I live some months ago.
These slides are VERY precise. I was honestly surprized. There is
absolutely NO PLAY in them. They are not made with ball bearings. The
balls are placed along the inner part of the slide. They were not that
big though. Does not matter cause I intend to process boards which are
sized 160 x 200 cm (~64 x 80"). I'm focusing on creating a DRILLING
machine. I don't need milling - remember, I'm the guy with the
meanwhile perfectly working home brew through plating machine (side
note, I completed my first four layer board two weeks ago. It's really
MUCH fun). I will see what I can do. Maybe I take a camera with me
next time I go to that store...

Markus

Re: Milling m/c bug - one aspect

2003-07-27 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "starsnstripes_2003"
<bwatson@a...> wrote:
> Ok, all this talk has given me the bug to build a milling machine
> for pc boards. Something that will be semi-precision.
> Maybe some of you guys can offer some good tips for building an X/Y
> table?
> I am a poor person and want to hold cost down as much as possible,
> so ideas like the "Drawer Slide" linear motion bearings are greatly
> appreciated!
>
> Slides:
> I'm not sure how much play are in those drawer bearings. Probably a
> lot. I'll have to look for some good ones, or maybe make my own
> slides from brass or UHMW channels. I've dealt with different types
> of gibs and round shaft/ball bushings before, so can probably
figure
> out something that is semi-precision at low-cost.


If you think of the forces involved, your main thrust should be for
precision, not load bearing. Drawere slides will offer load bearing
stuff and little presision. a simple rail, say a 1/2 x 1/2 inch
steel piece could offer the presision needed.

make your table, roll it on the drawerslides, and put one precision
guide down the center. then using nylon or delrin or some such, make
a snug fit so the table will not move side to side. very low tech.
remember, you only need one edge aligned to hold the table.




> Linear Motion drives:
> Stepper motors are the obvious low-cost solution, but I'll need to
> find some good resources for cheap parts that will work properly as
> a complete system.

forget servo's. you need an encoder for feedback to posistion them
and although old printers had them and are cheap, you are hacking a
lot to use them.

steppers are much simplier.



> I can write some software (VB and Perl) but I think some
> shareware/freeware is available to handle conversion from different
> CAD programs...

already done and available.

but drilling is quite different than routing a board.
drilling only requires points, and routing not only requires a
software to figure the outline of the trace (reember, you leave the
line, not cut it) but the much harder part and the high precicion
part is height control.


> Then I'll need to fabricate the mechanical drive portions:
Leadscrew
> or Timing Belt like printers?

leadscrew will offer slow movement, but high resolutions. a timing
belt will offer much faster movement, but less resolution and lower
power.

a 200 step motor with a belt rotates 5 times per inch. or 1,000
steps per inch.

a 1/4-20 leadscrew rotates 20 times per inch so with the same
stepper, the motor rotates 4 times more. That offers 4 times the
power and 1/4 the speed.

Belt is easier and is probably good enough for drilling.
Unless the rest of the system were tight, I would go with screws if
milling.


>
> Design parameters:
> What are the largest boards I should allow for in the x and y axis
> travel? 8", 12"?


The most stable set-up will be to have a table that moves back. this
would be the base and near full width of the board.

then make an overhead gantry so the dremel can move side to side.
this allows the drilling part to be pretty stable.

as far as the gantry goes, most people put a verticle plate and mount
the dremel on a large angle bracket. a more rugged disign is to have
the slides on the sides of a sled and the dremel in the center. that
way, the drilling forces are not trying to twist anything.

and the simplest way to get teh Z axis is to buy a linear slide.
these are the pre-assemebled units that only move an inch or so.
here a screw is deffinatly preferred.


>
> Anyone who has experience with such things, please chime in if you
> know of some good sources for info or parts!

parts ?

old printers !

most of everything you need are already there. linear rails (shafts
and bushings) steppers or possibly servo's, switches, connectors,
ribbong cable for linear motion.

if you are creative, you can use the smallish rails on a support to
make your own linear rails will full lenght support. and then a 3/4
or open bushing.

and if you get a servo unit, you can make a chuck and use that as a
DC motor for your drilling.


I used a full 4 ft by 8 ft sheet of 3/4 melenine to make a unit has a
foot print of 2 ft by 4 ft with the intention of making a 12 x 12 pcb
driller.

routing pcb's is dusty, takes a long time, and burns thru carbide
bits.

drilling is simple with a simple machine, but you do need to get the
coordinates from your pcb software into a file you can use for
drilling.


Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Victor Faria

OK . It just so happens I have been looking at these drives
www.xylotex.com looks great they also sell the steppers used at a good
price.
as far as software turbocnc seems to take it hands down it is dos it is
shareware it does work not crippled if you register for $20.00 you get the
source code.
they also have their own groups.
as far as slides I have built some from linear bearings and hard shafts.
there is one thing many people will be interested in this project.
how about you keep a log of you experiences and post them at the group or at
your site or???
maybe tell what you used as far as components/software/????? and why
this way others can learn from this
maybe put in their own .02 cents worth.
regards
victor



----- Original Message -----
From: "starsnstripes_2003" <bwatson@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 5:54 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug


> Ok, all this talk has given me the bug to build a milling machine
> for pc boards. Something that will be semi-precision.
> Maybe some of you guys can offer some good tips for building an X/Y
> table?
> I am a poor person and want to hold cost down as much as possible,
> so ideas like the "Drawer Slide" linear motion bearings are greatly
> appreciated!
>
> Slides:
> I'm not sure how much play are in those drawer bearings. Probably a
> lot. I'll have to look for some good ones, or maybe make my own
> slides from brass or UHMW channels. I've dealt with different types
> of gibs and round shaft/ball bushings before, so can probably figure
> out something that is semi-precision at low-cost.
>
> Linear Motion drives:
> Stepper motors are the obvious low-cost solution, but I'll need to
> find some good resources for cheap parts that will work properly as
> a complete system.
> True servos? Better but not as available as "surplus" ?
> Either one would of course need suitable controllers and software.
> I can write some software (VB and Perl) but I think some
> shareware/freeware is available to handle conversion from different
> CAD programs...
> Then I'll need to fabricate the mechanical drive portions: Leadscrew
> or Timing Belt like printers?
>
> Design parameters:
> What are the largest boards I should allow for in the x and y axis
> travel? 8", 12"?
>
> Anyone who has experience with such things, please chime in if you
> know of some good sources for info or parts!
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Stefan Trethan

@markus


no need for photo, now i know which type of slide you mean...
i have seen them on a computer table once (but the ones had some play if i
remember correct..)

we have hornbach here too.....

and it is nice to hear you have made a 4 layer...
my designs are not so complicated,2 layers are enough for me and
throughhle plating i don't want to set up because of the high starting
costs (chemicals) and not enough need...


i hope you can use the slides..








but anyways i would go for some sort of steel tubes and 3 ball bearings
(actually 2x3 on the two sides of the main carriage, makes 12 for this and
12for the second axis... haven't thought about the tool z axis but may need
12 too....

but the positive thing is this small bearings are very cheap (you can use
the "roller blades" bearings in blister pack....)


but i still have no idea where to get this shafts..
they must be very accurate, may be pipes or solid shafts...


who did post High Techs PCB's in the photos section?

looks nice, looks like the guy has a lot of wood like i do... would be very
interested in talking about this machine..... (precision)



i was looking for the PET controlled cnc, it has nice rails, how are the
bearings made?
i think 3 point too? the rails are supported from the bottom...


regards
stefan

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by Markus Zingg

Stefan

I haven't made up my mind yet on using the slides, but for the sole
purpose of DRILLING they are - and that's something I'm VERY sure
about - definately up to the task. Well, it could end up so cheap that
I may try it out just for the fun of it! I mean the steppers and a
controller are definately useable for more than one machine and I have
a relatively small / simple machine in mind so I don't think I would
loose a lot in the negative case.

The bearing / tube aproach is surely the right one if there are higher
forces (milling).

Anyways, whatever I will end up doing I surely will post a link. I
also enjoy this ongoing discussion here of course.

Markus

>@markus
>
>
>no need for photo, now i know which type of slide you mean...
>i have seen them on a computer table once (but the ones had some play if i
>remember correct..)
>
>we have hornbach here too.....
>
>and it is nice to hear you have made a 4 layer...
>my designs are not so complicated,2 layers are enough for me and
>throughhle plating i don't want to set up because of the high starting
>costs (chemicals) and not enough need...
>
>
>i hope you can use the slides..
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>but anyways i would go for some sort of steel tubes and 3 ball bearings
>(actually 2x3 on the two sides of the main carriage, makes 12 for this and
>12for the second axis... haven't thought about the tool z axis but may need
>12 too....
>
>but the positive thing is this small bearings are very cheap (you can use
>the "roller blades" bearings in blister pack....)
>
>
>but i still have no idea where to get this shafts..
>they must be very accurate, may be pipes or solid shafts...
>
>
>who did post High Techs PCB's in the photos section?
>
>looks nice, looks like the guy has a lot of wood like i do... would be very
>interested in talking about this machine..... (precision)
>
>
>
>i was looking for the PET controlled cnc, it has nice rails, how are the
>bearings made?
>i think 3 point too? the rails are supported from the bottom...
>
>
>regards
>stefan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug

2003-07-27 by moonshadow

I am also making one. You can see the details at ....

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/moonshadow/New_Folder/engraving1.htm

At the end you will find lots of links to other related sites.

John.
----- Original Message -----
From: starsnstripes_2003
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 2:54 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Milling m/c bug


Ok, all this talk has given me the bug to build a milling machine
for pc boards. Something that will be semi-precision.
Maybe some of you guys can offer some good tips for building an X/Y
table?
I am a poor person and want to hold cost down as much as possible,
so ideas like the "Drawer Slide" linear motion bearings are greatly
appreciated!

Slides:
I'm not sure how much play are in those drawer bearings. Probably a
lot. I'll have to look for some good ones, or maybe make my own
slides from brass or UHMW channels. I've dealt with different types
of gibs and round shaft/ball bushings before, so can probably figure
out something that is semi-precision at low-cost.

Linear Motion drives:
Stepper motors are the obvious low-cost solution, but I'll need to
find some good resources for cheap parts that will work properly as
a complete system.
True servos? Better but not as available as "surplus" ?
Either one would of course need suitable controllers and software.
I can write some software (VB and Perl) but I think some
shareware/freeware is available to handle conversion from different
CAD programs...
Then I'll need to fabricate the mechanical drive portions: Leadscrew
or Timing Belt like printers?

Design parameters:
What are the largest boards I should allow for in the x and y axis
travel? 8", 12"?

Anyone who has experience with such things, please chime in if you
know of some good sources for info or parts!



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Re: Milling m/c bug

2003-07-28 by starsnstripes_2003

Thanks for the info! I looked at Xylotex earlier, and I don't think
I could do any better than their 3 axis setup. Looks like exactly my
kind of price and function!
Has anyone here used them?
I joined their Y! User Group here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Xylotex
but haven't read it much.

I'll be happy to post my experiences/photos.
The machine I make might be a little more rugged than just a PCB
drilling m/c. I would like to machine some soft metals too.
That means using the 3rd axis drive.

I think that the slides will be made like small box ways, but using
bronze wear strips on the slide riding in a steel U-Channel on the
frame.
Either that, or figure something out with roller blade bearings like
Stefan suggested. But the rails are a problem...

There's a nice little project called Zoltar that I'll likely follow
fairly close:
http://www.rcmodels.net/cnc/hobby/cnc.html

A lot of design work has to be done, but I have seen quite a few
home CNC's on the net in the last 2 days, so I have some good
ideas :-)
I grabbed TurboCNC the Dos program that seems to be real popular, so
I'll see if I can make it do my PCB's plus some other milling jobs.

I never intended to mill PCB's anyway. My Etching routine is working
out very nicely for these small boards.

It may take some time for me to build, mainly cuz I don't have
access to a mill or lathe anymore, but I'll post when milestones are
reached ;-)

Thanks to all you guys that have provided input!
It's very much appreciated!


PS. About that Derma-Spec UV light...It works excellent! I modified
it by adding parallel, a 100uf electrolytic to C1 for a time of 2.45
minutes. And beefed up the heatsink with foil wings.
I laid a piece of glass on top along with my artwork and small
board, and it came out perfect!

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Victor Faria"
<victorf57@c...> wrote:
> OK . It just so happens I have been looking at these drives
> www.xylotex.com looks great they also sell the steppers used at a
good
> price.
> as far as software turbocnc seems to take it hands down it is dos
it is
> shareware it does work not crippled if you register for $20.00 you
get the
> source code.
> they also have their own groups.
> as far as slides I have built some from linear bearings and hard
shafts.
> there is one thing many people will be interested in this project.
> how about you keep a log of you experiences and post them at the
group or at
> your site or???
> maybe tell what you used as far as components/software/????? and
why
> this way others can learn from this
> maybe put in their own .02 cents worth.
> regards
> victor

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] drawer slides for cnc

2003-07-30 by Stefan Trethan

mostly @markus:

I just saw drawer slides used for cnc machine, but it was a cnc foam wing
hot wire cutter...

http://www.8linx.com/cnc/


very low forces here....
seems to be REALLY simple to build a cutter for foam..
not much more complicated than the automatic unit i built for use with
templates...
(the template making takes a hell lot of time...)

but enough "damn model plane stuff" - off topic i know.



i currently emailed to a german guy who uses the "rod with three bearings"
type of sliding mechanism...
he is very satisfied with it.. uses metric allthreads with two nuts spring
loaded to... M8 works...


with similar designs even 8mm Aluminium can be worked (with aluminum rails
.....).

i still do not want to use the drawer slides, i want to make a cnc not only
for drilling but also for other things
(front plates, perhaps pcb milling, various stuff) and i still think these
slides are not as good as the 3 bearings method.

but i saw slides constructed the same way (like drawer slides) as
"linearführung" or so at rs-components for big $$...

i hope to have found a supplier for precision steel rods/pipes in vienna,
waiting for reply mail..


i would really like to make the machine as sturdy as possible. using
"heavy" material (mostly steel) not aluminium.
maybe then i need really strong steppers... damn.. hoped to use the 10
motors i have lying around.. too weak i think...

i want to weld the framework together where i can (no play, more solid than
screws), maybe use sqare steel tubing which i have in huge
quantities...

maybe i can use a angeled steel profile in a uside-down V arrangement over
the round rail.
then maybe drill holes in it for the lower bearings (these will sit on two
screws m8).

the one guy i emailed who uses "three bearings" doesn't spring load one.
he uses 3mm (4mm) alu sheeting bent to hold the bearings.. sheeting is
flexible enough to ensure no play he says...
i still think about loading the top bearing with 20kg spring force or so...


but i am sure the cnc is in the "think about it before you start" phase for
2 month or so from now...
too much other things... but i had a look at some web pages and feel
confident now that it is possible
to make a good unit without a metal mill or lathe... (using angle grinders,
drill stand, arc welding, hand tools)



okay, i hope i will soon read about some progress from you guys here...

i know there are better places to discuss homebrew cnc but not much else is
happening here so please don't
ban it steve....

have a good night.... (oh yes in a couple of hours at your site but here
it's dark outside now.....)

stefan

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] drawer slides for cnc

2003-07-30 by Markus Zingg

Hi Stefan

I figure CNC drilling is definately on topic - at least if using
lasers to drill and "mill" PCB's is on topic too :)) (sorry guys,
could not resist - AND it was interesting)

With regard to the slides, the slides used in the link are NOT those I
refered to. The ones I refered to DO NOT use ball bearings. Instead
the balls are palced along the whole slide making it extremly stiff
and precise.

While I do understand your motivation to create a general all purpose
milling machine, I will choose a different aproach. I intend to build
a cnc DRILLING only machine for PCB's sized 200 cm x 160 cm max. ( 80
x 64"). This is realtively small, and there are almost no side forces
involved when it comes to drilling. My intention is to create a
machine that does not cost more than $100 - INCLUDING the steppers and
hopefully also the controller. Provided I manage to do this, I think
building / buying a MILLING machine later on and continue being
married should be possible :)) . In other words, why not have two
machines in the end? :))

This is just what I intend to do, and of course does not mean that
others should do the same thing. I also look at this drilling machine
as a learning experinece. Again, I'm currently held VERY busy and
hence haven't started anything yet but will do so as soon as time
permits.

Markus

>mostly @markus:
>
>I just saw drawer slides used for cnc machine, but it was a cnc foam wing
>hot wire cutter...
>
>http://www.8linx.com/cnc/
>
>
>very low forces here....
>seems to be REALLY simple to build a cutter for foam..
>not much more complicated than the automatic unit i built for use with
>templates...
>(the template making takes a hell lot of time...)
>
>but enough "damn model plane stuff" - off topic i know.
>
>
>
>i currently emailed to a german guy who uses the "rod with three bearings"
>type of sliding mechanism...
>he is very satisfied with it.. uses metric allthreads with two nuts spring
>loaded to... M8 works...
>
>
>with similar designs even 8mm Aluminium can be worked (with aluminum rails
>.....).
>
>i still do not want to use the drawer slides, i want to make a cnc not only
>for drilling but also for other things
>(front plates, perhaps pcb milling, various stuff) and i still think these
>slides are not as good as the 3 bearings method.
>
>but i saw slides constructed the same way (like drawer slides) as
>"linearführung" or so at rs-components for big $$...
>
>i hope to have found a supplier for precision steel rods/pipes in vienna,
>waiting for reply mail..
>
>
>i would really like to make the machine as sturdy as possible. using
>"heavy" material (mostly steel) not aluminium.
>maybe then i need really strong steppers... damn.. hoped to use the 10
>motors i have lying around.. too weak i think...
>
>i want to weld the framework together where i can (no play, more solid than
>screws), maybe use sqare steel tubing which i have in huge
>quantities...
>
>maybe i can use a angeled steel profile in a uside-down V arrangement over
>the round rail.
>then maybe drill holes in it for the lower bearings (these will sit on two
>screws m8).
>
>the one guy i emailed who uses "three bearings" doesn't spring load one.
>he uses 3mm (4mm) alu sheeting bent to hold the bearings.. sheeting is
>flexible enough to ensure no play he says...
>i still think about loading the top bearing with 20kg spring force or so...
>
>
>but i am sure the cnc is in the "think about it before you start" phase for
>2 month or so from now...
>too much other things... but i had a look at some web pages and feel
>confident now that it is possible
>to make a good unit without a metal mill or lathe... (using angle grinders,
>drill stand, arc welding, hand tools)
>
>
>
>okay, i hope i will soon read about some progress from you guys here...
>
>i know there are better places to discuss homebrew cnc but not much else is
>happening here so please don't
>ban it steve....
>
>have a good night.... (oh yes in a couple of hours at your site but here
>it's dark outside now.....)
>
>stefan
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] drawer slides for cnc

2003-07-30 by Jan Kok

Markus Zingg modestly announced:
> ... I intend to build a cnc DRILLING only
> machine for PCB's sized 200 cm x 160 cm max.
> ( 80 x 64"). This is realtively small, ...

If that's "relatively small," you must make
some R-E-A-L-L-Y BIG PCBs over there in
Switzerland! :-)

Cheers,
- Jan



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: drawer slides for cnc -table to start

2003-07-31 by Dave Mucha

Hi Guys,

I was thinking about the CNC portion for a bit and although I never
approach a 2 meter by 2.5 meter board like Markus, I think a smaller
version might be easier to start off with.


A small X/Y table is crying out for steppers. 8" x 5" work
envelope. that is way bigger than my boards. And, it would be easy
to put under the simple drilling jigs already talked about.

http://www.useenco.com/

part number 201-2826

half way down the page on the left.

Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: drawer slides for cnc -table to start

2003-07-31 by Markus Zingg

Ok, guys

You got me, it was late. Of course it's 200x160mm not cm or in other
words ~8" x 6.4". Sorry :))

Dave, nice link. The X/Y table you refer to could of course be used,
but it's way overkill for what I have in mind.

I figure it's best if I shut up now a bit until something comes to
live and then present a link or such - or otherwise my boards will
grow again... :))

Markus

>Hi Guys,
>
>I was thinking about the CNC portion for a bit and although I never
>approach a 2 meter by 2.5 meter board like Markus, I think a smaller
>version might be easier to start off with.
>
>
>A small X/Y table is crying out for steppers. 8" x 5" work
>envelope. that is way bigger than my boards. And, it would be easy
>to put under the simple drilling jigs already talked about.
>
>http://www.useenco.com/
>
>part number 201-2826
>
>half way down the page on the left.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Re: drawer slides for cnc -table to start

2003-07-31 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@n...>
wrote:
> Ok, guys
>
> You got me, it was late. Of course it's 200x160mm not cm or in other
> words ~8" x 6.4". Sorry :))
>
> Dave, nice link. The X/Y table you refer to could of course be used,
> but it's way overkill for what I have in mind.
>
> I figure it's best if I shut up now a bit until something comes to
> live and then present a link or such - or otherwise my boards will
> grow again... :))
>
> Markus


Hi Markus,

don't feel bad, imagine the laughs we get when we order a things a
box of pencils that are 200cm long !

as far as the X/Y table, it can be in your shop in the US for around
$100.00 and that eleminates the need for drawer glides and linear
rails and that stuff.

just having gotten maried in June, I am way too poor to start buying
tooling, but it will be a nice addition to my shop in the future.

as you can imagine, having a beefy X/Y table allows one to do some
milling as well !

Dave




>
> >Hi Guys,
> >
> >I was thinking about the CNC portion for a bit and although I
never
> >approach a 2 meter by 2.5 meter board like Markus, I think a
smaller
> >version might be easier to start off with.
> >
> >
> >A small X/Y table is crying out for steppers. 8" x 5" work
> >envelope. that is way bigger than my boards. And, it would be
easy
> >to put under the simple drilling jigs already talked about.
> >
> >http://www.useenco.com/
> >
> >part number 201-2826
> >
> >half way down the page on the left.
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
files:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >

beginner making PCB boards

2003-07-31 by Bob Roan

I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at least (!)
two areas where I need help.

#1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they weren't
in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)

#2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the circuits
on the two sides with what I think are called vias.

I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on equipment
to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc, if I'm
correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am not
very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might be able
to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might be
able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.

any suggestions?

thanks

bob


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] beginner making PCB boards

2003-07-31 by Markus Zingg

>I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at least (!)
>two areas where I need help.
>
>#1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they weren't
>in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
>
>#2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the circuits
>on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
>
>I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on equipment
>to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc, if I'm
>correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am not
>very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might be able
>to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might be
>able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
>
>any suggestions?
>
>thanks
>
>bob

Bob

Drilling is not likely to be the biggest problem when it comes to
double sided PCB's. If you want to go for cheap, check out proxxon
articles ( www.proxxon.com ). They have a fairly low priced drill
stand and drill motors with ball bearings that are very good for the
job. I do have their drill stand as well as one of their motors and
I'm very happy with it.

Going CNC for $200 without mechanical skills will be though. Maybe
John Kleinbauer's Plans ( www.kleinbauer.com ) can help compensating
your lack of skills in the hardware area provided you live in the US
or Canada.

At a low budget, connecting the two layers is usually made by sticking
wires through the holes and solder them on both sides. That's
virtually free :) This restricts the layout a bit in that you can't
place vias below chips but still some quite intersting work can be
done like this.

Another solution to connect the layers instead of the wires is to use
ready made inserts that can be pressed into the holes. Usually still
some soldering is required depending on the product. There were some
threads about this technology on this list not too long ago.

The perfect solution is electro chemical trhough hole plating. It's
possible to do that at home, but the initial costs are definately
higher than $200.

I recommend you to browse in the archives of this list - you will find
many hints.

Markus

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] beginner making PCB boards

2003-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

Hi Bob

Welcome to the group if i am allowed to say that (thanks steve ;-))

What do you mean with "not in very good alignment"?
do you mean you can't hit the center of the pad?
or do you mean they are not vertical, or do you mean that the holes don't
meet the pad
in the center on the solder side while they are centered on the top?

I guess the first point is the one you mean?
In most PCB Design programs there is the option "keep drill holes open"
when printing.
this makes you a nice copper-free spot in the center of the pad.
when you apply the drill (even by hand) it slides automaticaly in this gap
of the copper.
like if you use a center punch when drilling metal (which is an option too
to make on copper boards).

sometimes this "open holes" can be "botched together" with a seperate
layer, normally used for drill plans.
this fully depends on the software you use (please state).


to number 2 (vias) i only want to say that there i know the following
methods:
a) use component legs and solder top and bottom
b) use small wires
c) use small pyramid shaped pins which are stuck in and soldered
d) use small rivets sold for this purpose (leaves hole open for leg)
e) use chemical through plating
f) use only one layer.. most time this IS possible with using much brain
and maybe 2 or three wires (i actually nearly never use wires but much,
much brain and time)
g) use the things i forgot to list here ;-)


if you need information on this please always first ask google and search
in this groups archives.
at least some minutes of your own research you should spend before you ask
(answering takes time....).
but if you find nothing or need additional information you are very welcome
to ask for it!
(you know it can get boring to explain things over and over again if they
are in the archives.....)

i also write this because most of the possible methods listed above were
discussed since i joined the group and
can be found in the archives....


i just see markus was a bit faster in answering ;-) (by the way he has a
chemical through plating station built)



i think you should get/make a drill stand, if not cnc a pivoting one like
discussed may be fine for you.
which spindle and which drill bits do you use currently?

which clad type? fr4 or paper/resin?



not very skilled in hardware.... what can you do?
which tools are available? (i guess no big machines like mill/ lathe...)
but angle grinder, metal saw, drill (maybe drill stand)?
what's about welding? tools for cutting threads?


if you really want to make a cnc yourself (no kit) you need to cut these
things and therefore you need to use some tools.
if they are not available it may be better to buy a kit or maybe don't go
for cnc...


where do you live?


(you can't compensate much hardware with the software, the hardware is as
simple as possible i guess...
but maybe if one designs a machine he could give you detailed
instructions/plans if some software is needed you provide it later then)


you have to think about the cnc thing, it may be nice, but if it takes more
time constructing than drilling all by hand it
is not very effective i think..

so please feel free to come up with some details and plans for the future
maybe (how much pcbs you want to make and
how serious your equipment needs to be...)



On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 08:47:03 -0700, Bob Roan <bob@...> wrote:

> I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at least (!)
> two areas where I need help.
> #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they weren't
> in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
> #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the circuits
> on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
> I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on equipment
> to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc, if I'm
> correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am not
> very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might be able
> to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might be
> able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
> any suggestions?
> thanks
> bob
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: beginner making PCB boards

2003-07-31 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
> I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at least
(!)
> two areas where I need help.
>
> #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
weren't
> in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)


On my first sttemps, my chip holes were all over the map. this is
not typical of non-cnc stuff.

One solution is to make a drill guide. for this, you can buy a chip
carier with machined pins.

drill out the holes with a proper size drill bit. then drill one
hole at one corner of your chip and take a drill and put it thru the
chip carrier and board. drill the opposite corner and put another
drill in that hole.

now when you drill the rest of the holes, they will all line up.

as for thru holes, make big pads so your drill will deffinatly
penetrate both.


I think the via's probem was answered by other.

Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] drawer slides for cnc

2003-07-31 by GraySoul Dragon

Quoting Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...>:

> Hi Stefan
>
> I figure CNC drilling is definately on topic - at least if using
> lasers to drill and "mill" PCB's is on topic too :)) (sorry guys,
> could not resist - AND it was interesting)
>
> With regard to the slides, the slides used in the link are NOT those
> I refered to. The ones I refered to DO NOT use ball bearings. Instead
> the balls are palced along the whole slide making it extremly stiff
> and precise.

I don't know how the surplus market is in your area, but here we have
a semi-monthly auction for surplus goods from all over the state as
well as the state university system.

There are often mainframe racks with very well engineered rack slides
going for US$10 or less for the whole rack. Using the standard rack
as the mechanincal base is easy, just lay it on its back. Most of them
are steel. If you get one of the smaller hard drive units it has
four very nice slides in it that are rated for several hundred pounds
and are very smooth so as not to crash the drive heads.

Other surplus equipment can have very good positioners also -- I once
got a Matrix camera for $10 that had meter-long threaded rods with
recirculating ball bearing mounts, and the complete motor and driver
schematic taped inside the door.

Sometimes scavenging gets you a lot more than you'd think. ;)
-Dan Barlow

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] drawer slides for cnc

2003-08-01 by Stefan Trethan

thanks for the tip..

but surplus market is, letc call it nearly non-existent.
well such markets are for car parts, household stuff, and lots of other
things.
but seldom for technical parts.

there are some professional surplus resellers but the prices are way too
high.

the only option i know is ebay...

but thanks for the idea, maybe someone else can get such a rack...

regards
stefan



On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:17:55 -0400, GraySoul Dragon <danbarlow@...>
wrote:

> Quoting Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...>:
>
>> Hi Stefan
>>
>> I figure CNC drilling is definately on topic - at least if using
>> lasers to drill and "mill" PCB's is on topic too :)) (sorry guys,
>> could not resist - AND it was interesting)
>>
>> With regard to the slides, the slides used in the link are NOT those
>> I refered to. The ones I refered to DO NOT use ball bearings. Instead
>> the balls are palced along the whole slide making it extremly stiff
>> and precise.
>
> I don't know how the surplus market is in your area, but here we have
> a semi-monthly auction for surplus goods from all over the state as
> well as the state university system.
>
> There are often mainframe racks with very well engineered rack slides
> going for US$10 or less for the whole rack. Using the standard rack
> as the mechanincal base is easy, just lay it on its back. Most of them
> are steel. If you get one of the smaller hard drive units it has
> four very nice slides in it that are rated for several hundred pounds
> and are very smooth so as not to crash the drive heads.
>
> Other surplus equipment can have very good positioners also -- I once
> got a Matrix camera for $10 that had meter-long threaded rods with
> recirculating ball bearing mounts, and the complete motor and driver
> schematic taped inside the door.
>
> Sometimes scavenging gets you a lot more than you'd think. ;)
> -Dan Barlow
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: drawer slides for cnc

2003-08-01 by Dave Mucha

One option is to find the local freight companies in your area. A
friend told me that he goes to a monthly auction at a freight company.

seems if a package breaks, and they have no way to identify the
parts, they sell them at auction. I haven't looked at this but it is
a possible local source.

Also, check in the local paper for other auctions. you may find
something neat.

And don't forget yoru scrap yard.

Mine has a full height (6 foot) rack with clear plastic door. I
think he wants $100.00 for it. nothing inside and it's been in the
weather. He gets others that are pulled from old telco stuff.

Dave



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> thanks for the tip..
>
> but surplus market is, letc call it nearly non-existent.
> well such markets are for car parts, household stuff, and lots of
other
> things.
> but seldom for technical parts.
>
> there are some professional surplus resellers but the prices are
way too
> high.
>
> the only option i know is ebay...
>
> but thanks for the idea, maybe someone else can get such a rack...
>
> regards
> stefan
>
>
>
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:17:55 -0400, GraySoul Dragon
<danbarlow@r...>
> wrote:
>
> > Quoting Markus Zingg <m.zingg@n...>:
> >
> >> Hi Stefan
> >>
> >> I figure CNC drilling is definately on topic - at least if using
> >> lasers to drill and "mill" PCB's is on topic too :)) (sorry guys,
> >> could not resist - AND it was interesting)
> >>
> >> With regard to the slides, the slides used in the link are NOT
those
> >> I refered to. The ones I refered to DO NOT use ball bearings.
Instead
> >> the balls are palced along the whole slide making it extremly
stiff
> >> and precise.
> >
> > I don't know how the surplus market is in your area, but here we
have
> > a semi-monthly auction for surplus goods from all over the state
as
> > well as the state university system.
> >
> > There are often mainframe racks with very well engineered rack
slides
> > going for US$10 or less for the whole rack. Using the standard
rack
> > as the mechanincal base is easy, just lay it on its back. Most
of them
> > are steel. If you get one of the smaller hard drive units it has
> > four very nice slides in it that are rated for several hundred
pounds
> > and are very smooth so as not to crash the drive heads.
> >
> > Other surplus equipment can have very good positioners also -- I
once
> > got a Matrix camera for $10 that had meter-long threaded rods with
> > recirculating ball bearing mounts, and the complete motor and
driver
> > schematic taped inside the door.
> >
> > Sometimes scavenging gets you a lot more than you'd think. ;)
> > -Dan Barlow
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
files:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >

Re: drawer slides for cnc -table to start

2003-08-01 by Steve

> > >A small X/Y table is crying out for steppers. 8" x 5" work
> > >envelope. that is way bigger than my boards. And, it would be
> easy
> > >to put under the simple drilling jigs already talked about.
> > >
> > >http://www.useenco.com/
> > >
> > >part number 201-2826

I bought the larger one for about $70, I think, on sale a few years
ago. Well, my wife bought it for me for Christmas one year. ;') I told
her what she was getting me, we do that sometimes for each other. It's
7.5x12 travel, for the price it made sense.

There was an article in Nuts N Volts magazine a few years ago on
converting these mill/drill tables to CNC control. That's my plan, who
knows when I'll get time. Heck, I haven't even gotten a chance to test
out that Epson 800 with Future floor polish.

Steve Greenfield

Re: drawer slides for cnc -table to start

2003-08-01 by crankorgan

Steve,
Dan's article from Nuts and Volts for building a CNC machine
with draw slides is not available in reprint. Dan does not even have
a copy. I guy nicknamed "Dickybird" built one and he is using it to
cut balsawood airplane parts. You can see the machine on the
following page. More pictures are also throughout the thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?
s=&threadid=62920&perpage=15&pagenumber=1


John







--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...>
wrote:
>
> > > >A small X/Y table is crying out for steppers. 8" x 5" work
> > > >envelope. that is way bigger than my boards. And, it would
be
> > easy
> > > >to put under the simple drilling jigs already talked about.
> > > >
> > > >http://www.useenco.com/
> > > >
> > > >part number 201-2826
>
> I bought the larger one for about $70, I think, on sale a few years
> ago. Well, my wife bought it for me for Christmas one year. ;') I
told
> her what she was getting me, we do that sometimes for each other.
It's
> 7.5x12 travel, for the price it made sense.
>
> There was an article in Nuts N Volts magazine a few years ago on
> converting these mill/drill tables to CNC control. That's my plan,
who
> knows when I'll get time. Heck, I haven't even gotten a chance to
test
> out that Epson 800 with Future floor polish.
>
> Steve Greenfield

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs / CNCs] maybe sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-01 by Stefan Trethan

today i saw some square steel material, about 1" in dimension (yeah i just
used your fu***** non metric system ;-) )

it seems to be accurate, but one side is welded in the middle.

i see two options: using 4 ball bearings and 2 spring loaded.
sand down the welding residue (not too much on the outside) and use a
spring loaded bearing this side (needs not to be accurate then)
advantage: symmetrical load
disadvantage: you have to use the sanded welded side and need 4 bearings on
each point (16 per axis)

option 2: use two bearings on two flat sides and a third one on the "edge",
some of the stuff has rounded edges (5mm radius).
i think you can run a bearing on this rounded edge....


how can i measure the quality of these rods?
how can i measure how precise the surface is and how straight they are?

any ideas appreciated

i will make a quick drawing to show you what i think of...
in the photos section soon... (i hope....)

regards
stefan

re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Dave Mucha

Hi Stefan,

from what you describe, you are talking about square steel tubing.
probably pretty thick wall.

this is common for HEAVY duty router tables, depending of the size of
course. I was looking at 2 inch x 2 inch square with a 0.187" wall
for a 4 foot x 8 foot (1.2 meter x 2.4 meter (just guessing)) table.

to check accuracy, this can be complicated. and getting really high
accuracy will take lots and lots of time.

If you are only looking for a PCB table, considder making a frame
with aluminum as extruded aluminum is usually pretty darn straight.

or, attaching a rail to the top (or bottom) and one side. all you
need to do is make the rail accurate and you can bolt that in the
middle pretty easily. your bearings would ride on the rail.

If you want to true up the steel box, get a machinests level, and a
small grinder. level the table at best you can taking measurements
so you know all the lowest points are at the same level, check them a
fet times to be sure.

then mark the height of the high spots with a feeler gauge and
chaulk. think topographical map here.

then grind off the high spots. one note is that grinder wheels are
cheaper in the 10 pack.

additional notes,
wear hearing protection
wear eye protection
wear breathing mask of some sort
get wifie to rub your poor aching back.

Once you get the thing close, start checking side to side. then mark
it all over again.

lotta work, but a really great result.

Dave

above is synopsys of a proceedure written by Les Watts
http://home.alltel.net/leswatts/straightedge.html

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Stefan Trethan

hi Dave!

thick wall.. yes maybe, i will check.
i tried to flex a 4 meter piece, it is sturdy enough on 1 meter length for
anything i can imagine.

NO i want not to use aluminium.
i don't have it and don't want it.
i think if i want to make a mill which can also mill aluminium it has to be
steel.
that's my opinion, i know this is wrong in principle but i want it so.
( ;-) this is the advantage of building it from scratch)


i think about your method of straightening...
but i found a huge supply of this tubes and maybe i can select pieces which
are already perfect (for me).
the surface is pretty fine and i think they are straight...

i have used this measuring tools before (i had a very classic electrical
engineering education including machinist
work like milling, using a lathe, welding etc. as well as programming
microcontrollers.....)
so i would be able to do this but i don't have this measuring tools at
home, neither do i have a flat steel table.

thanks for the suggestions but i really have to inspect this stock closer
before i can do anything...

you know a lot of other work now....


regards
stefan...

only another thougt:
if you use two of this "rails" in parallel and put a toolpost on it and
construct a lathe head on the end........
hmmm..... maybe in ten years i have enough time for this ;-) i ever wanted
to have a lathe..


On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 01:01:13 -0000, Dave Mucha <dave_mucha@...>
wrote:

> Hi Stefan,
>
> from what you describe, you are talking about square steel tubing.
> probably pretty thick wall.
>
> this is common for HEAVY duty router tables, depending of the size of
> course. I was looking at 2 inch x 2 inch square with a 0.187" wall for a
> 4 foot x 8 foot (1.2 meter x 2.4 meter (just guessing)) table.
>
> to check accuracy, this can be complicated. and getting really high
> accuracy will take lots and lots of time.
>
> If you are only looking for a PCB table, considder making a frame with
> aluminum as extruded aluminum is usually pretty darn straight.
>
> or, attaching a rail to the top (or bottom) and one side. all you need
> to do is make the rail accurate and you can bolt that in the middle
> pretty easily. your bearings would ride on the rail.
>
> If you want to true up the steel box, get a machinests level, and a small
> grinder. level the table at best you can taking measurements so you know
> all the lowest points are at the same level, check them a fet times to be
> sure.
>
> then mark the height of the high spots with a feeler gauge and chaulk.
> think topographical map here.
>
> then grind off the high spots. one note is that grinder wheels are
> cheaper in the 10 pack.
>
> additional notes,
> wear hearing protection
> wear eye protection
> wear breathing mask of some sort
> get wifie to rub your poor aching back.
>
> Once you get the thing close, start checking side to side. then mark it
> all over again.
>
> lotta work, but a really great result.
>
> Dave
>
> above is synopsys of a proceedure written by Les Watts
> http://home.alltel.net/leswatts/straightedge.html
>
>
>

Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> hi Dave!
>
> thick wall.. yes maybe, i will check.
> i tried to flex a 4 meter piece, it is sturdy enough on 1 meter
length for
> anything i can imagine.
>
> NO i want not to use aluminium.
> i don't have it and don't want it.
> i think if i want to make a mill which can also mill aluminium it
has to be
> steel.
> that's my opinion, i know this is wrong in principle but i want it
so.
> ( ;-) this is the advantage of building it from scratch)


I like aluminum for small work, but for a milling machine, I think
it is too soft.

It sounds like you want more than just a simple PCB Router, and if
that is the case, check out the group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/

please read the description on the home page. The moderators do not
kid around, no off topic stuff.

I think this is going off topic too far, and home this post will be
acceptable as it does apply to small units for PCB making.


if you weld steel, it will warp and twist. if you machine steel that
has internal pressures, like cold rolled steel or welded steel, it
will move when you remove metal from other places as you are changing
the internal pressures.

making a steel table is great, but for really serious work, get it
heat threated, yup, the whole welded table.

then level as best you can. you don't need a table to put it on, a
concrete floor or wood blocks that will not move would work, but I
would assume one would make the table with legs.

also, a machinests level can be made by a flat, ground base and
putting a thin glass tube on it filled with water. if you use small
glass tubing, you can clamp it on the ends and put a feeler gague in
the center to make a very accurate and sensitive level.

Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Stefan Trethan

hi dave...
thanks for the link to this group..

the postings i read were not too interesting to me but i only viewed a
couple...

one was about "american houses wired with 230V or not" and connecting a
lathe to the wifes dryer outlet.
so seems the moderators aren't too fast in banning ot...


i found out the quality of sqare tubing varies widely.
i have seen stock that has slightly bent-in sides (due to the manufacturing
of the round edges).
this is bad. but i have also seen good straight even stock that has sides
that are flat like if ground.
i found tubes too where the welding is ground down i guess, if you let your
finger run across the welded side
you can't feel that it is welded, it is perfectly flat. i don't think these
people can weld so precise and thus i think
it is ground afterwards.
this would make very good rails for cnc....

i also had the following idea:

why not use 2 bearings on the side with the welding seam? so you can use
them slightly off-center and there is no
need to remove the seam completely. i know this increases bearing count but
it also makes spring-loading easier.

how do you think about spring loading some bearings?
do you think this is necessary at all?

i thought first of using four bearings, on on each side of the rail.
the bearings sit on M8 screws.
these screws are hold together by a bigger piece of square tubing (rail
diameter plus at least two times bearing outer).
this bigger tube sits concentric over the rail.
the screws go through holes in the bigger tube.
the upper and one side screw is fixed.
the lower and other side screw sits not in holes but in oblong slits. two
springs at each of the two bearings.
the springs are connected to their screw (inside the bigger tube on the
screw threads or outside on protrusive thread ends)

to make the screw slide in the oblong holes use two washers.


but if you only have one bearing in the center it will not sit parallel if
the springs are not perfectly matched.


i sayd i will make a picture and i will do so but i have no cad at the
moment...
maybe a hand drawing soon...



another thing:

drawer slides i guess:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/CNC%20Router%20(Dan's%20Plans)
/





and again another thing i thought about:

on one homepage i read the following:

"what i would change if making a cnc again"
one point: "only one spindle for the main axis, centered under the working
area"
the guy used two metric allthreads on both sides and a timing belt to
syncronize.

i am not sure what the best would be.
but if using two syncronized threads you can possibly take out the "floor"
/ working platform of your cnc
and put a bigger part under it. thus increasing the maximum height of
millable item dramatically...

that would be impossible if you use a centered allthread under the plate...


what do you think??

regards
stefan

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Markus Zingg

>the postings i read were not too interesting to me but i only viewed a
>couple...

Uhh, Stefan, here you are (IMHO) very wrong. I alredy found a lot of
very interesting information by reading posts there.

Dave, thanks for this link. I did not knew that such a group existed.

Markus

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-02 by Stefan Trethan

ok, i will read further...

in fact i asked a friend (who has adsl and no stupid 56k modem) to download
this "offline package with all messages"..
first i only saw some very special not too interesting posts....

regards
stefan

On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 23:52:22 +0200, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...> wrote:

>> the postings i read were not too interesting to me but i only viewed a
>> couple...
>
> Uhh, Stefan, here you are (IMHO) very wrong. I alredy found a lot of
> very interesting information by reading posts there.
>
> Dave, thanks for this link. I did not knew that such a group existed.
>
> Markus
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-03 by John Craddock

Stefan,
I used hexagon bar, like the bar used for making nuts and bolts, for the rails. I have uploaded a pdf into the files area under the folder JLC that shows a cross section of the setup. It uses roller-skate bearings and 3/4" or 19mm hexagon rail. The entire unit can be constructed using only a drill press. My table is 1 metre * 600mm. It can be scaled up or down quite easily. the critical thing is the size of the bearings relative to the hexagon bar. I have used 12mm bar with 12mm bearings and 16mm bar with 17mm bearings also. The feed screws are 10mm * 1.5mm pitch stainless threaded rod with bronze nuts that are split and cross screwed to take up the backlash. These screws turn in 10mmID * 30mmOD deep groove bearings SKF number 6200VVCM. They cost AU$3.2 each; that is about 1.1EU. The roller-skate bearings were really inexpensive.
Hope this gives you another idea.
Regards
John C


-----Original Message-----
From: Stefan Trethan [mailto:stefan_trethan@...]
Sent: Sunday, 3 August 2003 8:01 AM
To: homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?


ok, i will read further...

in fact i asked a friend (who has adsl and no stupid 56k modem) to download
this "offline package with all messages"..
first i only saw some very special not too interesting posts....

regards
stefan

On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 23:52:22 +0200, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...> wrote:

>> the postings i read were not too interesting to me but i only viewed a
>> couple...
>
> Uhh, Stefan, here you are (IMHO) very wrong. I alredy found a lot of
> very interesting information by reading posts there.
>
> Dave, thanks for this link. I did not knew that such a group existed.
>
> Markus
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

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Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-03 by Stefan Trethan

hi john

nice to see that, i already thought also of hexagonal stock
(one supplier in vienna has it on his items list)
maybe an option... we will see...

size of the bearings:
why is this critical?
i thought it doesn't change anything?


do you have the main axis driven by one or two threaded rods?


regards
stefan



On Sun, 3 Aug 2003 18:39:04 +1000, John Craddock
<John.Craddock@...> wrote:

> Stefan,
> I used hexagon bar, like the bar used for making nuts and bolts, for the
> rails. I have uploaded a pdf into the files area under the folder JLC
> that shows a cross section of the setup. It uses roller-skate bearings
> and 3/4" or 19mm hexagon rail. The entire unit can be constructed using
> only a drill press. My table is 1 metre * 600mm. It can be scaled up or
> down quite easily. the critical thing is the size of the bearings
> relative to the hexagon bar. I have used 12mm bar with 12mm bearings and
> 16mm bar with 17mm bearings also. The feed screws are 10mm * 1.5mm pitch
> stainless threaded rod with bronze nuts that are split and cross screwed
> to take up the backlash. These screws turn in 10mmID * 30mmOD deep groove
> bearings SKF number 6200VVCM. They cost AU$3.2 each; that is about 1.1EU.
> The roller-skate bearings were really inexpensive.
> Hope this gives you another idea.
> Regards
> John C
>
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-03 by John Craddock

Hello Stefan,
I use 2 screws.
As for the bearing size, If the bearings are too large for the size of the hexagon: -
the screws and ID will be too large for the hexagon bar carrier;
the bearings might interfere with each other and will not ride on the rail properly; and
will set the carrier and the rail too far apart.
If the bearings are too small there will be no clearance between the rail and the carrier.
HTH
Regards
John C

-----Original Message-----
From: Stefan Trethan [mailto:stefan_trethan@...]
Sent: Sunday, 3 August 2003 8:42 PM
To: homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?


hi john

nice to see that, i already thought also of hexagonal stock
(one supplier in vienna has it on his items list)
maybe an option... we will see...

size of the bearings:
why is this critical?
i thought it doesn't change anything?


do you have the main axis driven by one or two threaded rods?


regards
stefan



On Sun, 3 Aug 2003 18:39:04 +1000, John Craddock
<John.Craddock@...> wrote:

> Stefan,
> I used hexagon bar, like the bar used for making nuts and bolts, for the
> rails. I have uploaded a pdf into the files area under the folder JLC
> that shows a cross section of the setup. It uses roller-skate bearings
> and 3/4" or 19mm hexagon rail. The entire unit can be constructed using
> only a drill press. My table is 1 metre * 600mm. It can be scaled up or
> down quite easily. the critical thing is the size of the bearings
> relative to the hexagon bar. I have used 12mm bar with 12mm bearings and
> 16mm bar with 17mm bearings also. The feed screws are 10mm * 1.5mm pitch
> stainless threaded rod with bronze nuts that are split and cross screwed
> to take up the backlash. These screws turn in 10mmID * 30mmOD deep groove
> bearings SKF number 6200VVCM. They cost AU$3.2 each; that is about 1.1EU.
> The roller-skate bearings were really inexpensive.
> Hope this gives you another idea.
> Regards
> John C
>
>



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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-04 by Stefan Trethan

hi john

i see the importance of bearing size comes (at least as a big part) from
using another hexagonal rod
for screwing the bearings onto it.

how have you coupled your 2 screws?
timing belt? (i even saw chain on the web.....)

your second axis (the one riding on the main axis), this uses also two
rails normally and one screw.
but i wondered if it would be preferable to mount this two rails
horizontally or vertically...
(lie them flat down on the first axis carriage or put them on a 90 degree
mounting in relation to the first axis)

regards
stefan

> Hello Stefan,
> I use 2 screws.
> As for the bearing size, If the bearings are too large for the size of
> the hexagon: -
> the screws and ID will be too large for the hexagon bar carrier;
> the bearings might interfere with each other and will not ride on the
> rail properly; and
> will set the carrier and the rail too far apart.
> If the bearings are too small there will be no clearance between the rail
> and the carrier.
> HTH
> Regards
> John C
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?

2003-08-04 by John Craddock

Stefan,
I have two separate servos driving the two X-axis screws through two step and direction input servo drives driven by the same step and direction pulses from the controller. The Y axis is a single servo drive. Both X and Y axes are driven through timing belts of 1.5 : 1 reduction.
The reason for using hexagon rod in the wheel carriers is the all the angles are automatically true. If bolt and axel holes are drilled on the centre-line of the long axis then everything will line up truly.
I have uploaded two more diagrams of the Y-axis setup in files/JLC/ for you to have a look at. I believe that my setup is about the cheapest way to get a reasonably accurate XYZ table.
HTH
Regards
John C

-----Original Message-----
From: Stefan Trethan [mailto:stefan_trethan@...]
Sent: Monday, 4 August 2003 4:52 PM
To: homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: re : sqare steel "pipes" as rails?


hi john

i see the importance of bearing size comes (at least as a big part) from
using another hexagonal rod
for screwing the bearings onto it.

how have you coupled your 2 screws?
timing belt? (i even saw chain on the web.....)

your second axis (the one riding on the main axis), this uses also two
rails normally and one screw.
but i wondered if it would be preferable to mount this two rails
horizontally or vertically...
(lie them flat down on the first axis carriage or put them on a 90 degree
mounting in relation to the first axis)

regards
stefan

> Hello Stefan,
> I use 2 screws.
> As for the bearing size, If the bearings are too large for the size of
> the hexagon: -
> the screws and ID will be too large for the hexagon bar carrier;
> the bearings might interfere with each other and will not ride on the
> rail properly; and
> will set the carrier and the rail too far apart.
> If the bearings are too small there will be no clearance between the rail
> and the carrier.
> HTH
> Regards
> John C
>


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Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-11 by kingsettler2002

Hi All,
..so I used to make simple boards myself, but I think the price
points have come down so much for proto borads that it is really okay
to get them made professionaly...for as little as $13 a borad

I bought a few boards from pcbFABexpress (not to be confused with
pcbexpress) and this is what i found:
The minimum quantity is 5 boards; (it may work for some of you but I
would like minimum to be a little less than 5)
HOWEVER..the $13 for 2 layer price is applicable to this..you DON'T
have to buy 15 or 20 to get that price as other companies do.
The boards have been GREAT in quality...no problems at all..you can
tell they get it made from some good shops.


ALSO pcbFABexpress has a great referral program. Some silly name like
Gimme20. But essentially if you refer a friend to the site and that
friend orders boards..you get $20 off!

So I was able to get 5 double sided boards for about $40 using that
$20 online coupon! That's $8 a board..mask, silkscreen(legend)
tooling ALL INCLUDED..I don;t know how these guys can offer it at
such low prices --hope they have a biz model that works in the long
run..but in the short term i am enjoying the prices.

I even got my senior year project boards (from college)re-made at
these prices..so they look nice and clean and I can prodly show them
around as the first boards I ever designed.


has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
them out too.


James










--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
> I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at least
(!)
> two areas where I need help.
>
> #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
weren't
> in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
>
> #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the
circuits
> on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
>
> I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on
equipment
> to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc, if
I'm
> correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am not
> very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might be
able
> to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might be
> able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
>
> any suggestions?
>
> thanks
>
> bob
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-11 by Dave Mucha

interesting idea.

my biggest problem is in board design software.

seems eagle is about as free as you get
with functinality.

what file types to they take ?

Dave




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
<jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
> ..so I used to make simple boards myself, but I think the price
> points have come down so much for proto borads that it is really
okay
> to get them made professionaly...for as little as $13 a borad
>
> I bought a few boards from pcbFABexpress (not to be confused with
> pcbexpress) and this is what i found:
> The minimum quantity is 5 boards; (it may work for some of you but
I
> would like minimum to be a little less than 5)
> HOWEVER..the $13 for 2 layer price is applicable to this..you DON'T
> have to buy 15 or 20 to get that price as other companies do.
> The boards have been GREAT in quality...no problems at all..you can
> tell they get it made from some good shops.
>
>
> ALSO pcbFABexpress has a great referral program. Some silly name
like
> Gimme20. But essentially if you refer a friend to the site and that
> friend orders boards..you get $20 off!
>
> So I was able to get 5 double sided boards for about $40 using that
> $20 online coupon! That's $8 a board..mask, silkscreen(legend)
> tooling ALL INCLUDED..I don;t know how these guys can offer it at
> such low prices --hope they have a biz model that works in the long
> run..but in the short term i am enjoying the prices.
>
> I even got my senior year project boards (from college)re-made at
> these prices..so they look nice and clean and I can prodly show
them
> around as the first boards I ever designed.
>
>
> has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
> them out too.
>
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
> > I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at
least
> (!)
> > two areas where I need help.
> >
> > #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
> weren't
> > in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
> >
> > #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the
> circuits
> > on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
> >
> > I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on
> equipment
> > to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc,
if
> I'm
> > correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am
not
> > very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might
be
> able
> > to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might
be
> > able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
> >
> > any suggestions?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > bob
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-11 by Markus Zingg

Hi Dave

I'm personally using eagle, but bought a professional license. The
free one is fairly limitted space wise. I'm fairly happy with eagle
and also needed support from them which was free and excellent.
However this profesional version costs some $$$ so if you are on a
thight budget, you may consider what follows.

There is a free schema capture and layoutsoftware available with a
very impressive feature list. I haven't really worked with it, but
maybe it's something for you. I downladed it and quickly played around
wiht it a while ago and was quite impressed from this first look. If I
would have to re-evaluate at this point in time I definately would
take a closer look. The product is called Autotrax and is - what is
hard to belive for a product as powerfulll and complete as it seems -
completely free.

http://www.autotraxeda.com/

Markus

>interesting idea.
>
>my biggest problem is in board design software.
>
>seems eagle is about as free as you get
>with functinality.
>
>what file types to they take ?
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
><jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi All,
>> ..so I used to make simple boards myself, but I think the price
>> points have come down so much for proto borads that it is really
>okay
>> to get them made professionaly...for as little as $13 a borad
>>
>> I bought a few boards from pcbFABexpress (not to be confused with
>> pcbexpress) and this is what i found:
>> The minimum quantity is 5 boards; (it may work for some of you but
>I
>> would like minimum to be a little less than 5)
>> HOWEVER..the $13 for 2 layer price is applicable to this..you DON'T
>> have to buy 15 or 20 to get that price as other companies do.
>> The boards have been GREAT in quality...no problems at all..you can
>> tell they get it made from some good shops.
>>
>>
>> ALSO pcbFABexpress has a great referral program. Some silly name
>like
>> Gimme20. But essentially if you refer a friend to the site and that
>> friend orders boards..you get $20 off!
>>
>> So I was able to get 5 double sided boards for about $40 using that
>> $20 online coupon! That's $8 a board..mask, silkscreen(legend)
>> tooling ALL INCLUDED..I don;t know how these guys can offer it at
>> such low prices --hope they have a biz model that works in the long
>> run..but in the short term i am enjoying the prices.
>>
>> I even got my senior year project boards (from college)re-made at
>> these prices..so they look nice and clean and I can prodly show
>them
>> around as the first boards I ever designed.
>>
>>
>> has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
>> them out too.
>>
>>
>> James
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
>> > I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at
>least
>> (!)
>> > two areas where I need help.
>> >
>> > #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
>> weren't
>> > in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
>> >
>> > #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the
>> circuits
>> > on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
>> >
>> > I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on
>> equipment
>> > to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc,
>if
>> I'm
>> > correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am
>not
>> > very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might
>be
>> able
>> > to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might
>be
>> > able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
>> >
>> > any suggestions?
>> >
>> > thanks
>> >
>> > bob
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by kingsettler2002

PCBFABExpress accepts ONLY Gerber 274X format..
there are plenty of free or cheap design software available for
example GC-prevue
http://www.graphicode.com/pages/products.cfm

For more dos and don'ts about what PCB FABexpress accepts, please
look at their FAQ...at www.pcbfabexpress.com

thx,
James "now-my-boards-are-all-professional-looking" Jain


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:
> interesting idea.
>
> my biggest problem is in board design software.
>
> seems eagle is about as free as you get
> with functinality.
>
> what file types to they take ?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
> <jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi All,
> > ..so I used to make simple boards myself, but I think the price
> > points have come down so much for proto borads that it is really
> okay
> > to get them made professionaly...for as little as $13 a borad
> >
> > I bought a few boards from pcbFABexpress (not to be confused with
> > pcbexpress) and this is what i found:
> > The minimum quantity is 5 boards; (it may work for some of you
but
> I
> > would like minimum to be a little less than 5)
> > HOWEVER..the $13 for 2 layer price is applicable to this..you
DON'T
> > have to buy 15 or 20 to get that price as other companies do.
> > The boards have been GREAT in quality...no problems at all..you
can
> > tell they get it made from some good shops.
> >
> >
> > ALSO pcbFABexpress has a great referral program. Some silly name
> like
> > Gimme20. But essentially if you refer a friend to the site and
that
> > friend orders boards..you get $20 off!
> >
> > So I was able to get 5 double sided boards for about $40 using
that
> > $20 online coupon! That's $8 a board..mask, silkscreen(legend)
> > tooling ALL INCLUDED..I don;t know how these guys can offer it at
> > such low prices --hope they have a biz model that works in the
long
> > run..but in the short term i am enjoying the prices.
> >
> > I even got my senior year project boards (from college)re-made at
> > these prices..so they look nice and clean and I can prodly show
> them
> > around as the first boards I ever designed.
> >
> >
> > has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might
try
> > them out too.
> >
> >
> > James
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
> > > I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at
> least
> > (!)
> > > two areas where I need help.
> > >
> > > #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
> > weren't
> > > in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
> > >
> > > #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the
> > circuits
> > > on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
> > >
> > > I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on
> > equipment
> > > to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of
cnc,
> if
> > I'm
> > > correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I
am
> not
> > > very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might
> be
> > able
> > > to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I
might
> be
> > > able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
> > >
> > > any suggestions?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > bob
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by ghidera2000

While not really free, the cheapest "good" software I've found is
QCad. Less than half the price of the Eagle bundle. THere is a demo
but, like Eagle, its limited size and printing wise. Considering the
500 pin version is $95 US - for schematic AND layout, its not hard
to swallow at all. There's also a 1000 pin at $190 and unlimited at
$380 (all US funds).

As bug free as I've ever seen. Found a couple little things
missing/not working quite right. Emailed the author and BOOM it was
all fixed.

Only bad thing I can think of (its not actually "bad" bad) is that
it doesn't work quite the same way as most programs. Takes a little
getting used to - though nowhere near as much as the eagle part
editor!

http://www.winqcad.com/

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:
> interesting idea.
>
> my biggest problem is in board design software.
>
> seems eagle is about as free as you get
> with functinality.
>
> what file types to they take ?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
> <jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Leon Heller

>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
><jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
> > them out too.


PCB Pool provide an excellent service, I use them a lot.


Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM Tel: +44 1424 423947
Email:leon_heller@...
My web page: http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN Messenger
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Leon Heller

>From: Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...>
>Reply-To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made
>cheap
>Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 00:35:12 +0200
>
>Hi Dave
>
>I'm personally using eagle, but bought a professional license. The
>free one is fairly limitted space wise. I'm fairly happy with eagle
>and also needed support from them which was free and excellent.
>However this profesional version costs some $$$ so if you are on a
>thight budget, you may consider what follows.
>
>There is a free schema capture and layoutsoftware available with a
>very impressive feature list. I haven't really worked with it, but
>maybe it's something for you. I downladed it and quickly played around
>wiht it a while ago and was quite impressed from this first look. If I
>would have to re-evaluate at this point in time I definately would
>take a closer look. The product is called Autotrax and is - what is
>hard to belive for a product as powerfulll and complete as it seems -
>completely free.
>
>http://www.autotraxeda.com/


I tried Autotrax out of curiosity and found it unusable! It was very slow
and had lots of bugs. I think it's been improved, but now costs money. The
developer (there's only one of him) seems to have got the users of the free
product to do his debugging for him. Micro$oft has been doing something like
this for years, of course.

I use Pulsonix, BTW: http:/www.pulsonix.com. It's excellent, but fairly
expensive.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM Tel: +44 1424 423947
Email:leon_heller@...
My web page: http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool emoticons - download MSN Messenger today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Neil

Also check out www.eprotos.com -- excellent boards and service, and the best
pricing I could find for 100-pc quantities.

Cheers,
-Neil.



On Tuesday 12 August 2003 00:36, Leon Heller scribbled:
> >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
> >
> ><jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
> > > has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
> > > them out too.
>
> PCB Pool provide an excellent service, I use them a lot.
>
>
> Leon

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Markus Zingg

Hi Leon

>I tried Autotrax out of curiosity and found it unusable! It was very slow
>and had lots of bugs.

As mentioend, I did not intensively looked at it. However there is a
user e-mail list and the autor - although being "just one" seems to be
fairly wiling in addressing issues.

> I think it's been improved, but now costs money.

I just looked, it's still free. The only thing they charge for (as far
as I can see) is the printed manual.

> The
>developer (there's only one of him) seems to have got the users of the free
>product to do his debugging for him. Micro$oft has been doing something like
>this for years, of course.

I don't have trouble at all to trust a product made by only one person
though. IMHO this is not the key criterion - especially not if you
look at M$ cause aparently their teams consist of more than one
people. I of course can't (and don't want) comment on the stability of
autotrax. Bad to hear that it's aparently not there where it should. I
also I found other capture and layout software that was comercial and
extremly buggy. I do apreciate the fact that Eagle works stable and so
far was able to do what I want. In other words I haven't regretted the
money I spent on it. I don't like Eagles UI though (especially the non
standard editor is something to get used to)

>I use Pulsonix, BTW: http:/www.pulsonix.com. It's excellent, but fairly
>expensive.

I'm sure the old fact "you get what you pay for" holds especially true
here too.

Markus

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Stefan Trethan

i only want to mention that there are ways to get around eagles "free"
limits if you only
want it for personal pcbs.
I tried it for some days unlimited without paying for it.

me feeling about this is the folowing:
i would clearly not buy a package like eagle or any other cad for some 100
usd (or *10 or *100)
because this is way too much for me. i can't spend that much on software, i
can hardly spend it on hardware.
but still i want to use it. for privat purposes, not selling much of great
value (maybe to compensate material
costs and the time if i make something for a (not so good) friend.....).
but still i never would buy the software... because i can't afford....

so i find a way to use it (not limited which may render it unuseable)
without paying...

the advantage for the programming company is the following:
i use it, i know it, obviously i like it as i use it.
if i ever have to choose a software package or suggest one i definitely
would suggest this one i use.
if i talk to anybody about the specific software kind i would tell him that
i use this particular package.
so he knows it too. if he has to decide what to buy he has already heard of
the package i use.

so maybe at a time there will be a additional buyer of the software (me or
not) in the future
because i now use it without paying....

i think this is pretty much the philosophy of "student version".
but some companies don't offer student versions. so i have to find another
way (and there are other ways....).


I don't know how the law is in your country and how exactly it is
controlled.
but here i have not heared of any case where PERSONAL useage without paying
was legaly prosecuted...
it may get more "dangerous" in the future.... and for companies it is a big
no no....


ok, i hope i wrote this as careful and discrete as possible...


regards
stefan

oh, to say something of interest too:
i personally still prefer ORCAD over eagle..
orcad is really great, very powerful...
has pspice integrated and pld programming as well as schematic and layout
and gerber editor...


and for all guys who don't like what i wrote:
this was only a joke! you know, you can't use software without paying,
there are keys and such stuff.
impossible! be sure i never did and would never do! ;-)



On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 00:35:12 +0200, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...> wrote:

> Hi Dave
>
> I'm personally using eagle, but bought a professional license. The
> free one is fairly limitted space wise. I'm fairly happy with eagle
> and also needed support from them which was free and excellent.
> However this profesional version costs some $$$ so if you are on a
> thight budget, you may consider what follows.
>
> There is a free schema capture and layoutsoftware available with a
> very impressive feature list. I haven't really worked with it, but
> maybe it's something for you. I downladed it and quickly played around
> wiht it a while ago and was quite impressed from this first look. If I
> would have to re-evaluate at this point in time I definately would
> take a closer look. The product is called Autotrax and is - what is
> hard to belive for a product as powerfulll and complete as it seems -
> completely free.
>
> http://www.autotraxeda.com/
>
> Markus
>
>> interesting idea.
>>
>> my biggest problem is in board design software.
>>
>> seems eagle is about as free as you get
>> with functinality.
>>
>> what file types to they take ?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kingsettler2002"
>> <jamesjain2003@n...> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>> ..so I used to make simple boards myself, but I think the price points
>>> have come down so much for proto borads that it is really
>> okay
>>> to get them made professionaly...for as little as $13 a borad
>>>
>>> I bought a few boards from pcbFABexpress (not to be confused with
>>> pcbexpress) and this is what i found:
>>> The minimum quantity is 5 boards; (it may work for some of you but
>> I
>>> would like minimum to be a little less than 5)
>>> HOWEVER..the $13 for 2 layer price is applicable to this..you DON'T
>>> have to buy 15 or 20 to get that price as other companies do.
>>> The boards have been GREAT in quality...no problems at all..you can
>>> tell they get it made from some good shops.
>>>
>>>
>>> ALSO pcbFABexpress has a great referral program. Some silly name
>> like
>>> Gimme20. But essentially if you refer a friend to the site and that
>>> friend orders boards..you get $20 off!
>>>
>>> So I was able to get 5 double sided boards for about $40 using that $20
>>> online coupon! That's $8 a board..mask, silkscreen(legend) tooling ALL
>>> INCLUDED..I don;t know how these guys can offer it at such low prices --
>>>
>>>
>>> hope they have a biz model that works in the long run..but in the short
>>> term i am enjoying the prices.
>>>
>>> I even got my senior year project boards (from college)re-made at these
>>> prices..so they look nice and clean and I can prodly show
>> them
>>> around as the first boards I ever designed.
>>>
>>>
>>> has anybody used pcb-pool.com? Let me know if you have..i might try
>>> them out too.
>>>
>>>
>>> James
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Roan" <bob@t...> wrote:
>>> > I am trying to make my own PCB boards and have identified at
>> least
>>> (!)
>>> > two areas where I need help.
>>> > > #1 - When I held the drill in my hand to drill the holes, they
>>> weren't
>>> > in very good alignment (probably an understatement.)
>>> > > #2 - When I try a two sided board, I will have to connect the
>>> circuits
>>> > on the two sides with what I think are called vias.
>>> > > I'm willing to spend some money (under $200) would be nice on
>>> equipment
>>> > to help me in these areas. I particularly like the idea of cnc,
>> if
>>> I'm
>>> > correct that it would automatically position the drill, but I am
>> not
>>> > very skilled at designing and assembling hardware. But I might
>> be
>>> able
>>> > to do something simple. I'm a pretty good programmer, so I might
>> be
>>> > able to compensate on the software side for these shortcomings.
>>> > > any suggestions?
>>> > > thanks
>>> > > bob
>>> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Markus Zingg

Hi Stefan

>i only want to mention that there are ways to get around eagles "free"
>limits if you only
>want it for personal pcbs.
>I tried it for some days unlimited without paying for it.

If you refer to the cracked version of Eagle, then the problem is that
this one generates files that are not readable by the oficial version
anymore - apart from all moral isues and my personal intention that
useing such cracked software is not ok at all.

>me feeling about this is the folowing:
>i would clearly not buy a package like eagle or any other cad for some 100
>usd (or *10 or *100)
>because this is way too much for me. i can't spend that much on software, i
>can hardly spend it on hardware.

That's a very symptomatic attitude I mostly see among european people.
It's TOTALY wrong. Why do you spend money on hardware? Simple -
because there is no alternative! Basically that's not fair - period.

I wrote software over the past 20 years. A year ago I started to delve
into developping hardware and I just finished my first comercial
product. It involves a 16 bit CPU, RAM, Flash, Networkcontroller a
CompactFlash etc. etc. That said it's not trivial. Although I had to
teach all this to myself and although there was a steep learning curve
I must say that developing hardware needs LESS time and efforts than
developping software. I wrote many many kind of software over the
years including operating system drivers, database engines, software
develpement tools, ERP kind of software, video processing software
etc. etc.

What I'm trying to tell is that the times where writing software was
creating good revenues are long over. SW engineers have high saleries
(which the good creative ones also really deserve) and they need
utterly long to develop a complex piece of software and customers
can't imagine what's behind the scense and as such have very high
demands combined with the intention that it's all simple easy and does
not cost money. All those efforts to keep up with this must be payed
and this is calculated into the procuct price. There really is enough
competition around. Just look at schema capture and layout software.
There are TONS of products around and considering the amount of work
needed to make such a packet, prices are remarkably low!

I do agree though that they are high for a privat individual (i.e. a
student) but they are not made for this "market". Haveing a studend
version of a software is of course the manufactures decission and I
figure there are reasons which have their sources in the treatement of
studend versions by students why some of them don't have this option.

>but still i want to use it. for privat purposes, not selling much of great
>value (maybe to compensate material
>costs and the time if i make something for a (not so good) friend.....).
>but still i never would buy the software... because i can't afford....
>
>so i find a way to use it (not limited which may render it unuseable)
>without paying...
>
>the advantage for the programming company is the following:
>i use it, i know it, obviously i like it as i use it.
>if i ever have to choose a software package or suggest one i definitely
>would suggest this one i use.
>if i talk to anybody about the specific software kind i would tell him that
>i use this particular package.
>so he knows it too. if he has to decide what to buy he has already heard of
>the package i use.
>
>so maybe at a time there will be a additional buyer of the software (me or
>not) in the future
>because i now use it without paying....

While this might be, it still also signals others around you that
there is a way to use software (in genral) without paying and that
it's ok to do so which is simply plain wrong leading to limitted
versions and leading to high prices and protective behaviour of the
software manufactures.

It's really funny. Ok, I created my first product involving hardware -
now, the funny part is that while it contains a lot less software than
other (software only) products I made, NOBODY discusses about the
price just for a second, while a software only product is ALWAYS too
expensive - something must be very wrong in society.

I'm now selling software globally for about 10 years with customers in
almost any country around the globe. The funny thing is that your
attitude (and I don't really intend to offend you personally but refer
to it as a kind of attitude) is most widely spreaded across europe. I
must admit that US customers are much more aware of what it means to
run a business, taking all the risks involved etc. and genrally behave
very differntly here. They are either conviced that a software helps
them solving a problem and hence are ready to pay for it or they just
don't bother to use it et all. Ok, there are (rare) exceptions, but I
really think we europeans (I'm myself one) really have a problem here.
I don't know if this is a left over from socialism or what, it's just
realyl sick in it's nature.

>i think this is pretty much the philosophy of "student version".
>but some companies don't offer student versions. so i have to find another
>way (and there are other ways....).

Of course there are. You are a talented guy. Create something, sell it
and buy the software you need out of the revenue. IMHO you are much
better than I when it comes to design hardware - again, use that
potential.

>I don't know how the law is in your country and how exactly it is
>controlled.
>but here i have not heared of any case where PERSONAL useage without paying
>was legaly prosecuted...

Which again, is totaly totaly wrong, teaching public to behave the
total wrong way. Officials SHOULD prosecute such behaviour to make
people aware that there is NO difference in genral between buying a
bread or a pice of software. Pirating software is just plain and
simple steeling.

>it may get more "dangerous" in the future.... and for companies it is a big
>no no....

Dont' know that you tried to say with this statement...

>ok, i hope i wrote this as careful and discrete as possible...

Well, I understood your post as an invitation to others to search the
net for a cracked version of eagle. Again, that's imoral and wrong. I
really urge you to think about all this again. I like to point out
though that I apreciate you as a person and seeing you here on this
list. I just think that with regard to this topic you are really
really wrong.

Markus

Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap - Qcad

2003-08-12 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ghidera2000"
<ghidera2000@y...> wrote:
> While not really free, the cheapest "good" software I've found is
> QCad. Less than half the price of the Eagle bundle. THere is a demo
> but, like Eagle, its limited size and printing wise. Considering
the
> 500 pin version is $95 US - for schematic AND layout, its not hard
> to swallow at all. There's also a 1000 pin at $190 and unlimited at
> $380 (all US funds).
>
> As bug free as I've ever seen. Found a couple little things
> missing/not working quite right. Emailed the author and BOOM it was
> all fixed.
>
> Only bad thing I can think of (its not actually "bad" bad) is that
> it doesn't work quite the same way as most programs. Takes a little
> getting used to - though nowhere near as much as the eagle part
> editor!
>
> http://www.winqcad.com/


I tried the demo version of Q-Cad and it seems OK, but I found the
library lacking.

Trying to design a simple 555 chip with caps and resistors and some
MOSFETS I figured everthing was really standard.

one thing I like about Eagle is the SMT switch in the library, if you
don't SMT, you can just ignore all those thousands of divices.

Dave

Moderator note: Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-12 by Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> i only want to mention that there are ways to get around eagles "free"
> limits if you only
> want it for personal pcbs.
> I tried it for some days unlimited without paying for it.

If this is a guarded reference to cracking software, please keep this
off the list.

Eagle -is- free for personal use, with limits.

Steve, the touchy moderator

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap - Qcad

2003-08-13 by Leon Heller

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 10:49 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap -
Qcad


> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ghidera2000"
> <ghidera2000@y...> wrote:
> > While not really free, the cheapest "good" software I've found is
> > QCad. Less than half the price of the Eagle bundle. THere is a demo
> > but, like Eagle, its limited size and printing wise. Considering
> the
> > 500 pin version is $95 US - for schematic AND layout, its not hard
> > to swallow at all. There's also a 1000 pin at $190 and unlimited at
> > $380 (all US funds).

I used EasyPC for over 15 years: http://www.numberone.com Prices start at
under 100 GBP. The library isn't very extensive, but it's much safer to
develop your own, anyway - I've been caught out a few times by errors in
libraries.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon_heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-13 by Stefan Trethan

Hi Markus


I understand what your opinion is..
But i too know why people are not so prepared to spend so much $$ on
software as on hardware.
When they buy hardware they get something material, it is made of parts
which they
are sure are also bought somewhere. They can imagine that it takes a lot of
time to manufacture
this and put everything together...

They don't think about the design process, that it was very complicated and
expensive
and that half of the price is for that.

And with software they only imagine the guy running the big cd copier
making a hundred cds per
second. nothing of big value there.


I understand your opinion, esecially as you are a software designer...
but still i think it won't hurt eagle if i don't pay because at that time i
would never ever buy it.
(remember actually i don't use eagle because i didn't like)

At some point i think software should be free..
I know this is impossible for software programmers but i would like it.
I also think knoweledge shold be free (plans etc.).
I know programming is just as hard work as building something but... on the
other side it are only bits and bytes..


I will keep your opinion in mind for sure and think about it...
But i can't fully agree because this would not be honest and i think that
is more important....


@steve thanks, i never will write such things again. i understand this is
not good st this list....
please excuse this...



stefan



On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 21:08:12 +0200, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...> wrote:

> Hi Stefan
>
>> i only want to mention that there are ways to get around eagles "free"
>> limits if you only
>> want it for personal pcbs.
>> I tried it for some days unlimited without paying for it.
>
> If you refer to the cracked version of Eagle, then the problem is that
> this one generates files that are not readable by the oficial version
> anymore - apart from all moral isues and my personal intention that
> useing such cracked software is not ok at all.
>
>> me feeling about this is the folowing:
>> i would clearly not buy a package like eagle or any other cad for some
>> 100 usd (or *10 or *100)
>> because this is way too much for me. i can't spend that much on
>> software, i can hardly spend it on hardware.
>
> That's a very symptomatic attitude I mostly see among european people.
> It's TOTALY wrong. Why do you spend money on hardware? Simple -
> because there is no alternative! Basically that's not fair - period.
>
> I wrote software over the past 20 years. A year ago I started to delve
> into developping hardware and I just finished my first comercial
> product. It involves a 16 bit CPU, RAM, Flash, Networkcontroller a
> CompactFlash etc. etc. That said it's not trivial. Although I had to
> teach all this to myself and although there was a steep learning curve
> I must say that developing hardware needs LESS time and efforts than
> developping software. I wrote many many kind of software over the
> years including operating system drivers, database engines, software
> develpement tools, ERP kind of software, video processing software
> etc. etc.
>
> What I'm trying to tell is that the times where writing software was
> creating good revenues are long over. SW engineers have high saleries
> (which the good creative ones also really deserve) and they need
> utterly long to develop a complex piece of software and customers
> can't imagine what's behind the scense and as such have very high
> demands combined with the intention that it's all simple easy and does
> not cost money. All those efforts to keep up with this must be payed
> and this is calculated into the procuct price. There really is enough
> competition around. Just look at schema capture and layout software.
> There are TONS of products around and considering the amount of work
> needed to make such a packet, prices are remarkably low!
>
> I do agree though that they are high for a privat individual (i.e. a
> student) but they are not made for this "market". Haveing a studend
> version of a software is of course the manufactures decission and I
> figure there are reasons which have their sources in the treatement of
> studend versions by students why some of them don't have this option.
>
>> but still i want to use it. for privat purposes, not selling much of
>> great value (maybe to compensate material
>> costs and the time if i make something for a (not so good) friend.....).
>> but still i never would buy the software... because i can't afford....
>>
>> so i find a way to use it (not limited which may render it unuseable)
>> without paying...
>>
>> the advantage for the programming company is the following:
>> i use it, i know it, obviously i like it as i use it.
>> if i ever have to choose a software package or suggest one i definitely
>> would suggest this one i use.
>> if i talk to anybody about the specific software kind i would tell him
>> that i use this particular package.
>> so he knows it too. if he has to decide what to buy he has already heard
>> of the package i use.
>>
>> so maybe at a time there will be a additional buyer of the software (me
>> or not) in the future
>> because i now use it without paying....
>
> While this might be, it still also signals others around you that
> there is a way to use software (in genral) without paying and that
> it's ok to do so which is simply plain wrong leading to limitted
> versions and leading to high prices and protective behaviour of the
> software manufactures.
>
> It's really funny. Ok, I created my first product involving hardware -
> now, the funny part is that while it contains a lot less software than
> other (software only) products I made, NOBODY discusses about the
> price just for a second, while a software only product is ALWAYS too
> expensive - something must be very wrong in society.
>
> I'm now selling software globally for about 10 years with customers in
> almost any country around the globe. The funny thing is that your
> attitude (and I don't really intend to offend you personally but refer
> to it as a kind of attitude) is most widely spreaded across europe. I
> must admit that US customers are much more aware of what it means to
> run a business, taking all the risks involved etc. and genrally behave
> very differntly here. They are either conviced that a software helps
> them solving a problem and hence are ready to pay for it or they just
> don't bother to use it et all. Ok, there are (rare) exceptions, but I
> really think we europeans (I'm myself one) really have a problem here.
> I don't know if this is a left over from socialism or what, it's just
> realyl sick in it's nature.
>
>> i think this is pretty much the philosophy of "student version".
>> but some companies don't offer student versions. so i have to find
>> another way (and there are other ways....).
>
> Of course there are. You are a talented guy. Create something, sell it
> and buy the software you need out of the revenue. IMHO you are much
> better than I when it comes to design hardware - again, use that
> potential.
>
>> I don't know how the law is in your country and how exactly it is
>> controlled.
>> but here i have not heared of any case where PERSONAL useage without
>> paying was legaly prosecuted...
>
> Which again, is totaly totaly wrong, teaching public to behave the
> total wrong way. Officials SHOULD prosecute such behaviour to make
> people aware that there is NO difference in genral between buying a
> bread or a pice of software. Pirating software is just plain and
> simple steeling.
>
>> it may get more "dangerous" in the future.... and for companies it is a
>> big no no....
>
> Dont' know that you tried to say with this statement...
>
>> ok, i hope i wrote this as careful and discrete as possible...
>
> Well, I understood your post as an invitation to others to search the
> net for a cracked version of eagle. Again, that's imoral and wrong. I
> really urge you to think about all this again. I like to point out
> though that I apreciate you as a person and seeing you here on this
> list. I just think that with regard to this topic you are really
> really wrong.
>
> Markus
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-13 by Dave Mucha

damn, I HATE Yahoo !

I just wrote a logical reply and yahoo trashed it and asked for my
password ! crmmmy software designers.. shouldn't be allowed to
charge for faulty software.......


Oh, and sofwate is distrubuted with agreements and exchanges. you
agree to use it and you exchange $$$ for it.

any other use is violating that agreement.

I think once you pay for software, you should get a working copy.
upgrades included. a new product that is similar and fixes the
origional problems should not be charged to paying users of the
faulty program. That is like selling a faulty car and charging the
owner to get it 'fixed'

If bootleg is illegal, broken software should be illegal too !
selling a pre-release to get money in the door is fine, as long as a
functional product is supplied at a later date.

But, if software was not paid for, we would have SuperCalc and
WordStar and 8088 microprocessors.



> At some point i think software should be free..
> I know this is impossible for software programmers but i would like
it.
> I also think knoweledge shold be free (plans etc.).
> I know programming is just as hard work as building something
but... on the
> other side it are only bits and bytes..


you could get there if you never charge for anything you do, but you
must work 12 hour days and make a lot of stuff.

if you like you can get started.... start on a project for me, design
a the circuit, lay it out, etch the board and stuff it. send it for
free to Dave at ........


OK, this is off topic, but the bottom line is bootlegging software is
illegal broken software is not. Once the software houses get their
act together, the complaint will go away and less software will be
bootlegged.

while we wait, promoting illegal actions is illegal. besides it
reveals to the world you probably have illegal stuff on your machine.

And with the US Government planning on destroying your machine if
illegal stuff is on it, you are risking a lot. This is true,
currently they plan on a 3 strikes rule. if you pirate music and get
caught 3 times, the 3rd tiem they plan on sending a virus to destroy
your machine.

OK, way way way oof topic.

self moderation in 3....2....1

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-13 by Stefan Trethan

@dave

is linux bad?
is staroffice bad (ok - now sun has got it... )?
is irfanview bad?
is opera bad?
is flashget bad?

i think some of the best pieces of software are free..


is it good that ms demands a better processor every 2 years?
can we really make more with our machines than we could in the past?

i don't think at all paying for software makes progress better or faster.
the pcb sector may be small and so it has not much good freeware.
and sure the hundreds of emolyees which develop big packages need to be
paid..


and the last point: here is not the US.
and that is good.

I am NOT using any cracked eagle here. I would have to think a lot to find
any cracked software here.








On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:03:41 -0000, Dave Mucha <dave_mucha@...>
wrote:

> damn, I HATE Yahoo !
>
> I just wrote a logical reply and yahoo trashed it and asked for my
> password ! crmmmy software designers.. shouldn't be allowed to charge
> for faulty software.......
>
>
> Oh, and sofwate is distrubuted with agreements and exchanges. you agree
> to use it and you exchange $$$ for it.
>
> any other use is violating that agreement.
>
> I think once you pay for software, you should get a working copy.
> upgrades included. a new product that is similar and fixes the origional
> problems should not be charged to paying users of the faulty program.
> That is like selling a faulty car and charging the owner to get it
> 'fixed'
>
> If bootleg is illegal, broken software should be illegal too ! selling a
> pre-release to get money in the door is fine, as long as a functional
> product is supplied at a later date.
>
> But, if software was not paid for, we would have SuperCalc and WordStar
> and 8088 microprocessors.
>
>
>
>> At some point i think software should be free..
>> I know this is impossible for software programmers but i would like
> it.
>> I also think knoweledge shold be free (plans etc.).
>> I know programming is just as hard work as building something
> but... on the
>> other side it are only bits and bytes..
>
>
> you could get there if you never charge for anything you do, but you must
> work 12 hour days and make a lot of stuff.
>
> if you like you can get started.... start on a project for me, design a
> the circuit, lay it out, etch the board and stuff it. send it for free
> to Dave at ........
>
>
> OK, this is off topic, but the bottom line is bootlegging software is
> illegal broken software is not. Once the software houses get their act
> together, the complaint will go away and less software will be
> bootlegged.
>
> while we wait, promoting illegal actions is illegal. besides it reveals
> to the world you probably have illegal stuff on your machine.
>
> And with the US Government planning on destroying your machine if illegal
> stuff is on it, you are risking a lot. This is true, currently they plan
> on a 3 strikes rule. if you pirate music and get caught 3 times, the 3rd
> tiem they plan on sending a virus to destroy your machine.
>
> OK, way way way oof topic.
>
> self moderation in 3....2....1
>
>

END THREAD Re: Found a great place to get boards made cheap

2003-08-13 by Steve

With the power vested in me by this bein' my darn list, I officially
deem this thread -OVER-.

Please debate this off list.

Illegal is illegal, please do not talk about pirating software or
warez or cracked copies here. Just 'cause you want it free doesn't
make it legal. Stefan, can you see perhaps why some here will no
longer sell outside north america?

Steve, the grouchy moderator

KOH running low...

2003-08-17 by Randy Knutson

Hi,

As I was stripping a PCB board today I realized my supply of Potassium Hydroxide was running very low. I was wondering if anyone knew of a common household item which contained pottasium hydroxide or knew of any common household item I could pick up at a Wal-Mart which could act as a substitute. I know I could probably strip it with sandpaper but I would like to avoid this if possible.

Thanks in advance!
Randy


Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
@dave

is linux bad?
is staroffice bad (ok - now sun has got it... )?
is irfanview bad?
is opera bad?
is flashget bad?

i think some of the best pieces of software are free..


is it good that ms demands a better processor every 2 years?
can we really make more with our machines than we could in the past?

i don't think at all paying for software makes progress better or faster.
the pcb sector may be small and so it has not much good freeware.
and sure the hundreds of emolyees which develop big packages need to be
paid..


and the last point: here is not the US.
and that is good.

I am NOT using any cracked eagle here. I would have to think a lot to find
any cracked software here.








On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:03:41 -0000, Dave Mucha
wrote:

> damn, I HATE Yahoo !
>
> I just wrote a logical reply and yahoo trashed it and asked for my
> password ! crmmmy software designers.. shouldn't be allowed to charge
> for faulty software.......
>
>
> Oh, and sofwate is distrubuted with agreements and exchanges. you agree
> to use it and you exchange $$$ for it.
>
> any other use is violating that agreement.
>
> I think once you pay for software, you should get a working copy.
> upgrades included. a new product that is similar and fixes the origional
> problems should not be charged to paying users of the faulty program.
> That is like selling a faulty car and charging the owner to get it
> 'fixed'
>
> If bootleg is illegal, broken software should be illegal too ! selling a
> pre-release to get money in the door is fine, as long as a functional
> product is supplied at a later date.
>
> But, if software was not paid for, we would have SuperCalc and WordStar
> and 8088 microprocessors.
>
>
>
>> At some point i think software should be free..
>> I know this is impossible for software programmers but i would like
> it.
>> I also think knoweledge shold be free (plans etc.).
>> I know programming is just as hard work as building something
> but... on the
>> other side it are only bits and bytes..
>
>
> you could get there if you never charge for anything you do, but you must
> work 12 hour days and make a lot of stuff.
>
> if you like you can get started.... start on a project for me, design a
> the circuit, lay it out, etch the board and stuff it. send it for free
> to Dave at ........
>
>
> OK, this is off topic, but the bottom line is bootlegging software is
> illegal broken software is not. Once the software houses get their act
> together, the complaint will go away and less software will be
> bootlegged.
>
> while we wait, promoting illegal actions is illegal. besides it reveals
> to the world you probably have illegal stuff on your machine.
>
> And with the US Government planning on destroying your machine if illegal
> stuff is on it, you are risking a lot. This is true, currently they plan
> on a 3 strikes rule. if you pirate music and get caught 3 times, the 3rd
> tiem they plan on sending a virus to destroy your machine.
>
> OK, way way way oof topic.
>
> self moderation in 3....2....1
>
>



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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] KOH running low...

2003-08-17 by Stefan Trethan

On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 19:30:00 -0700 (PDT), Randy Knutson
<ken_ryder@...> wrote:

> Hi,
> As I was stripping a PCB board today I realized my supply of Potassium
> Hydroxide was running very low. I was wondering if anyone knew of a
> common household item which contained pottasium hydroxide or knew of any
> common household item I could pick up at a Wal-Mart which could act as a
> substitute. I know I could probably strip it with sandpaper but I would
> like to avoid this if possible.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Randy
>
>


please if you reply to older messages to get the adress delete the older
message part...

isn't there a chemicals supply close to you?
i always tried to get chemicals like you say, some household product at
supermarkets.
but then i discovered a cemicals shop which i can reach easily where
everything is stocked, the assistants
know what they are doing and can help you. And the price is much lower than
substitute products.
If you add that at the professional shop you get the pure chemical with
nothing added in best concentration
i see no reason why i should not go there.
even with buying H2o2 there were no questions at all (somebody here said
the police will get you outside
the shop because h2o2 is used for illegal drug procuction.).
i remember a friend buying KNO3 (he made model rockets) which is obviously
only used for, lets say, very fast
combustible materials (or keeping flesh red at the butcher) and they did
not ask anything.


i think there was mentioned often there is some houshold cleaner which is
potassium hydroxide but i don't remember how it is called.

go to k-mart and look in the cleaners section for a powder/granulate, they
should label on the outside what it is.
but only if you can't find no chemicals supply.


regards
stefan

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] KOH running low...

2003-08-17 by adam Seychell

By "stripping" I assume you mean stripping negative dry film
photoresist. If so then you can use any strong alkaline
,such as sodium hydroxide also known as lye or caustic soda.
You only need 5% solution, and above that it doesn't prove
much more effective at stripping action. I use a 3% NaOH
solution for stripping resists.
If you must have KOH, then try industrial cleaning supplies.
There will be no problem getting hold of 25 kg bags of KOH
from chemical suppliers.

Adam

Randy Knutson wrote:
> Hi,
>
> As I was stripping a PCB board today I realized my supply of Potassium Hydroxide was running very low. I was wondering if anyone knew of a common household item which contained pottasium hydroxide or knew of any common household item I could pick up at a Wal-Mart which could act as a substitute. I know I could probably strip it with sandpaper but I would like to avoid this if possible.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Randy
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] KOH running low...

2003-08-18 by Stefan Trethan

i remember now where i have my koh from.
i got it from a friend which is growing wine.
they use it to clean out the tubs in which the berries are transported from
the vineyard to the place where they are pressed.
Maybe you can get it in a store for farming...
No idea if there is wine growing where you are and if they use it too to
clean tubs..

Still te best source may be chemical supplier...
Even with mail order it may be cheaper (and easier)..

st


On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:40:07 +1000, adam Seychell
<adam_seychell@...> wrote:

> By "stripping" I assume you mean stripping negative dry film photoresist.
> If so then you can use any strong alkaline ,such as sodium hydroxide also
> known as lye or caustic soda.
> You only need 5% solution, and above that it doesn't prove much more
> effective at stripping action. I use a 3% NaOH solution for stripping
> resists.
> If you must have KOH, then try industrial cleaning supplies.
> There will be no problem getting hold of 25 kg bags of KOH from chemical
> suppliers.
>
> Adam
>
> Randy Knutson wrote:
>> Hi,
>> As I was stripping a PCB board today I realized my supply of Potassium
>> Hydroxide was running very low. I was wondering if anyone knew of a
>> common household item which contained pottasium hydroxide or knew of any
>> common household item I could pick up at a Wal-Mart which could act as a
>> substitute. I know I could probably strip it with sandpaper but I would
>> like to avoid this if possible.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>> Randy
>>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>