Homebrew PCBs

I believe this is what some folks use for photo resist etching, no?

http://projects.newsobserver.com/taking_stock/1_photo_paper_at_staples

FYI.
-john W4PAH

OK, someone answer the man's question - is the the famous Staples paper that works so good for toner transfer?

At least someone needs to buy a  pack and try so the rest of us will know to buy or not {grinning}

73 de Ken H>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Shadle <shadle@...> wrote:

>
> I believe this is what some folks use for photo resist etching, no?
> 
> http://projects.newsobserver.com/taking_stock/1_photo_paper_at_staples
> 
> FYI.
> -john W4PAH
>

I've just made my first toner transfer image using the Staples paper(I used to make PCB's using the photo-method, but don't have the space in my current apartment for the exposure unit and development station...so I decided to try toner transfer).

The paper I used was 'Staples photo basic gloss paper, 210 g/m2, 56lb 8.2mil, item/article 648181', which is inkjet photo paper. I paid $16 for 50 sheets.
I ran it through my Samsung ML-2010 mono laser printer, printing to the glossy side of the paper. 

The toner adhered to this paper nicely, I printed the image to a regular piece of paper at first and you can not feel the traces with your fingers, but with the image printed to the photo paper you can feel the traces, and the toner stands out nice and shiny.  

My copper clad board is .062", SS, 2oz.CU, FR4.
On my first attempt to iron on the image to the PCB, I found that the paper sticks to the iron(wound up re-cleaning the pcb/iron and starting over). To remedy this I just used a piece of regular paper on top of the photo paper(regular paper winds up sticking to the photo paper). I am using a standard clothes iron, a 'Black&Decker Light 'n Easy Iron, 1100 Watts, made in 1990'(wife gave me her old one).
     
I ironed the image for about 3 minutes, then let it cool down until it was safe to hold. Then I placed the paper/pcb into a small tub of warm water with a couple squirts of soft soft, and let it soak for about 22 minutes. 

After soaking I was able to slowly peel the photo paper off of the pcb, and to my surprise the toner transfered completely and the photo paper was peeling off nicely without leaving hardly any paper residue(the paper does adhere nicely to the board, so be patient when peeling it off). I did have a few spots that stuck to the paper, mostly on the edges of the PCB where I didn't apply enough pressure with the iron. 

After soaking and pulling off the paper, I let the PCB dry, which then showed unseen residue on the PCB, there were only a couple of places that had residue between the traces, which once soaked again in the soapy water rubbed off rather easily with my fingers. The smallest traces are Text made with 8 mil traces, which came out nice!  

I haven't etched the PCB yet, but I plan to use muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide.   

What I have learned from the Staples paper is that it does transfer nicely and removal is reasonably easy. But the key here is keeping the paper secure during the transfer and making sure that pressure is equally/evenly applies across the entire PCB...it now seems that laminator is the way to go. 

Cheers,
Daniel


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingto@...> wrote:

>
> OK, someone answer the man's question - is the the famous Staples paper that works so good for toner transfer?
> 
> At least someone needs to buy a  pack and try so the rest of us will know to buy or not {grinning}
> 
> 73 de Ken H>
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Shadle <shadle@> wrote:
> >
> > I believe this is what some folks use for photo resist etching, no?
> > 
> > http://projects.newsobserver.com/taking_stock/1_photo_paper_at_staples
> > 
> > FYI.
> > -john W4PAH
> >
>

I bought a pack of the Staples photo paper a couple years ago, at the recommendation on another page. It is very heavy and will not work in laminators. It does give a good transfer but takes a long time to heat it thru. It also takes a long, long, long, time to soak off the paper. 

I recommend the much cheaper Hammermill Laser Gloss, also sold at Staples. The best paper I have found for toner xfer. The lighter weight makes transfers fast both by steam iron and laminator, and the paper comes off very quickly, and the pattern is as good or better than the Staples Photo paper.

RD

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A very good write up Daniel - thank you.

73 de Ken