Homebrew PCBs

Folks,

First, I want to say "Hi".  I just recently started making my own
single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the group. 
There is a lot of great info here!

The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide).  I found the
formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs.  As I was wanting to
try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and low
cost, I decided to give it a try.

All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far.  I
haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
devices are 0603, so they are pretty big.  The etchant is clear, so it
is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching process.
 Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with no
heating at all.  It generally takes about three minutes to fully etch
the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.

So the questions are:

  1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
  2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
  3) Anything else I should be aware of?
  4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can give
a pros/cons?

Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.

Clint

On Mon, 19 May 2008 15:24:28 -0000
"clintonlcorbin" <clcorbin@...> wrote:

>   1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
>   2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
>   3) Anything else I should be aware of?

Hi Clint,

This is an interesting link comparing the most common etchants:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html

It is a bit technical... 

John

I'm working on switching from FeCl to HCl/H2O2.  I'm using Adam's site
for reference:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html

My reasoning is that CuCl2 can be regenerated, whereas FeCl eventually
needs to be discarded.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "DJ Delorie" <dj@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 4:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?


>
> I'm working on switching from FeCl to HCl/H2O2.  I'm using Adam's site
> for reference:
> http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html
>
> My reasoning is that CuCl2 can be regenerated, whereas FeCl eventually
> needs to be discarded.

You can regenerate FeCl3 with H2O2 and HCl. The copper content will become 
CuCl2, so you end up with both etchants.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
Yaesu FT-817ND and FT-857D transceivers
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

"Leon" <leon355@...> writes:
> You can regenerate FeCl3 with H2O2 and HCl. The copper content will
> become CuCl2, so you end up with both etchants.

Interesting.  Where does the iron go?  Back to solution?

However, CuCl regenerates with air, and "brown stains suck".  Plus,
you can buy HCl and H2O2 cheaply, whereas FeCl is getting harder to
find locally and more expensive.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "DJ Delorie" <dj@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?


>
> "Leon" <leon355@...> writes:
>> You can regenerate FeCl3 with H2O2 and HCl. The copper content will
>> become CuCl2, so you end up with both etchants.
>
> Interesting.  Where does the iron go?  Back to solution?

It goes back into the solution. The CuCl2 will eventually replace it, as he 
iron will gradually get removed when the boards are taken out and washed. 
It'll take a long time, though.

Leon

As someone already remarked, the stain from hell would be enough to
deter me from this path.

Why contaminate perfectly good etchant with nasty FeCl? ;-)


ST

On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 7:22 AM, Leon <leon355@...> wrote:

> It goes back into the solution. The CuCl2 will eventually replace it, as he
> iron will gradually get removed when the boards are taken out and washed.
> It'll take a long time, though.
>
> Leon
>
>

I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc (obvious !).
But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small traces. A 200cm² double sided board with 35µ copper take between 4 to 6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45°C.

clintonlcorbin <clcorbin@...> wrote:                             Folks,
 
 First, I want to say "Hi".  I just recently started making my own
 single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the group. 
 There is a lot of great info here!
 
 The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
 muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide).  I found the
 formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs.  As I was wanting to
 try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and low
 cost, I decided to give it a try.
 
 All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far.  I
 haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
 devices are 0603, so they are pretty big.  The etchant is clear, so it
 is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching process.
  Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with no
 heating at all.  It generally takes about three minutes to fully etch
 the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.
 
 So the questions are:
 
 1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
   2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
   3) Anything else I should be aware of?
   4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can give
 a pros/cons?
 
 Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.
 
 Clint
 
 
     
                                       

       

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You can actually build up the concentration of CuCl over time, then
you don't need to replace your etchant at all.
I have a tank that takes 2 or 3 liters, and still the same CuCl after
several years. The only thing i do is add some H2O2 if it seems slow
or i feel it might need it.
Sometimes i also add HCl, usually when i see blue stuff forming or if
adding H2O2 does not change the color, or simply if i feel it might
need it.
As you can see, both very precise scientific processes ;-)

One could measure these things easily, i've done it a few times, but i
don't find it necessary to bother.

With this setup i can just drop in a board many months after i last
etched and it still works. The H2O2 will obviously all be long gone,
but the CuCl acts as an accumulator.
At any time there is a certain amount of "useful" CuCl in the tank,
and a certain amount of "used" Cu2Cl (i think) that has already done
it's etching.
The "useful" CuCl is bright green, the "used" Cu2Cl is brownish.

Now if you have enough CuCl in your tank you don't need to add HCl or
H2O2 each time. This is because those two chemicals just convert the
used CuCl to the unused state (one used molecule makes two new ones).
In this regeneration process the H2O2 gives the oxygen to the H from
HCl (making water), leaving the Cl free to regenerate the Cu2Cl into
two CuCl.
Obviously as long as there is Cu2Cl all H2O2 will be used to
regenerate immediately, none is wasted to the air. Of course there
must always some spare HCl or it will not work, but some HCl can
always remain in the etchant.

With this etchant the exact amounts are not critical, as long as there
is some CuCl, some Cu2Cl, some HCl it will always etch, and if H2O2 is
added it will always regenerate. There is a wide process window and it
is easy to avoid "running out" of any one chemical. Of course etching
time will not be optimal with this "gut feeling" etchant maintainance.


ST

On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 6:05 PM, Michel Baguet <bagmik@...> wrote:
> I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
> The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
> If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc (obvious !).
> But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small traces. A 200cm² double sided board with 35µ copper take between 4 to 6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45°C.
>

At 01:03 AM 5/20/2008 -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:

> Plus, you can buy HCl and H2O2 cheaply, whereas FeCl is getting harder
> to find locally and more expensive.

I was trying to find some FeCl for etching brass, but with a dozen Radio Shack
stores in this town, none of them had it in stock.   Later I happened to be in
an art supply store (the Dick Blick chain) and found they carried it for about
$4/pint (about half the price I rememeber Radio Shack charging).  In addition
to etching its used for getting a patina on metals, so another source might
be a store that caters to stain glass artists who want that old antique look
on the metal parts of their work.

Mike

P.S. - But for PCB work, count my vote for that pretty emerald green CuCl.

>I was trying to find some FeCl for etching brass,

Mike, the peroxide/hydrochloric works well enough for brass too, or at 
least well enough that I haven't bothered trying the FeCl I have. 
Agitation/etchant flow is a big factor as was noted on the page linked in 
this thread, but it's not all that difficult to manage even without 
setting up a bubbler. I've also found that variations in the mix, if 
you're doing simple tray-rocking, can produce different surface finishes 
on areas that aren't etched through - finding that I could get a shiny 
surface on the parts I was working on was nice (seems to me that was with 
etchant that had lost effectiveness and didn't have much copper in it, 
with just enough peroxide to liven it up)

-Gary

Hello Group,

I've been following this discussion with interest and would like to move away from etching pcb's with ferric chloride.
I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist was no help at all and didn't have a clue.
Any help greatly appreciated!

Steve

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Michel Baguet 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?


  I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
  The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
  If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc (obvious !).
  But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small traces. A 200cm² double sided board with 35µ copper take between 4 to 6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45°C.

  clintonlcorbin <clcorbin@...> wrote: Folks,

  First, I want to say "Hi". I just recently started making my own
  single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the group. 
  There is a lot of great info here!

  The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
  muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). I found the
  formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs. As I was wanting to
  try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and low
  cost, I decided to give it a try.

  All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far. I
  haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
  devices are 0603, so they are pretty big. The etchant is clear, so it
  is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching process.
  Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with no
  heating at all. It generally takes about three minutes to fully etch
  the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.

  So the questions are:

  1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
  2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
  3) Anything else I should be aware of?
  4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can give
  a pros/cons?

  Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.

  Clint





  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG. 
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1455 - Release Date: 19/05/2008 17:04


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"s.l.kirkwood" <s.l.kirkwood@...> writes:
> I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the
> muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist
> was no help at all and didn't have a clue.

3% hydrogen peroxide is a common antiseptic; you should find it in
your local chemist (drugstore for Americans) or any supermarket.

37% HCl (hydrochloric acid, aka muriatic acid) is used for two common
things: cleaning cement/brick/stone for painting, and adjusting pool
pH.  I found mine at the local hardware store in the paint section.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "s.l.kirkwood" <s.l.kirkwood@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?


Hello Group,

I've been following this discussion with interest and would like to move 
away from etching pcb's with ferric chloride.
I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the muriatic 
acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist was no help at 
all and didn't have a clue.
Any help greatly appreciated!

 Hydrochloric acid is often called Spirts of Salts, and is often available 
in ironmongers. Chemists sell H2O2, but it isn't really strong enough. It 
does work, though.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign  G1HSM
Yaesu FT-817ND transceiver
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

On Thu, 22 May 2008 19:08:29 +0100, you wrote:

>Hello Group,
>
>I've been following this discussion with interest and would like to move away from etching pcb's with ferric chloride.
>I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist was no help at all and didn't have a clue.

Home supply stores often have muriatic acid (HCl) for pool cleaning
supplies.  However, the last time I was in the UK, I noticed a
suspicious lack of such things.  You might find it used for cleaning
concrete or bricks, though.

If you have a Walmart or equivalent, you might find hydrogen peroxide
sold in largish quantities as a disinfectant.  It is also possibly
available from beauty supply stores in a higher concentration.


Harvey

>Any help greatly appreciated!
>
>Steve
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Michel Baguet 
>  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5:05 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?
>
>
>  I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
>  The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
>  If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc (obvious !).
>  But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small traces. A 200cm\ufffd double sided board with 35\ufffd copper take between 4 to 6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45\ufffdC.
>
>  clintonlcorbin <clcorbin@...> wrote: Folks,
>
>  First, I want to say "Hi". I just recently started making my own
>  single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the group. 
>  There is a lot of great info here!
>
>  The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
>  muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). I found the
>  formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs. As I was wanting to
>  try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and low
>  cost, I decided to give it a try.
>
>  All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far. I
>  haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
>  devices are 0603, so they are pretty big. The etchant is clear, so it
>  is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching process.
>  Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with no
>  heating at all. It generally takes about three minutes to fully etch
>  the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.
>
>  So the questions are:
>
>  1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
>  2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
>  3) Anything else I should be aware of?
>  4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can give
>  a pros/cons?
>
>  Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.
>
>  Clint
>
>
>
>
>
>  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>   
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>  No virus found in this incoming message.
>  Checked by AVG. 
>  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1455 - Release Date: 19/05/2008 17:04
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Try Beauty supply stores, it is often used as a hair bleaching 
solution, I recently purchased some 40% hydrogen peroxide for my 
etchant.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>
> On Thu, 22 May 2008 19:08:29 +0100, you wrote:
> 
> >Hello Group,
> >
> >I've been following this discussion with interest and would like 
to move away from etching pcb's with ferric chloride.
> >I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the 
muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist 
was no help at all and didn't have a clue.
> 
> Home supply stores often have muriatic acid (HCl) for pool cleaning
> supplies.  However, the last time I was in the UK, I noticed a
> suspicious lack of such things.  You might find it used for cleaning
> concrete or bricks, though.
> 
> If you have a Walmart or equivalent, you might find hydrogen 
peroxide
> sold in largish quantities as a disinfectant.  It is also possibly
> available from beauty supply stores in a higher concentration.
> 
> 
> Harvey
> 
> 
> >Any help greatly appreciated!
> >
> >Steve
> >  ----- Original Message ----- 
> >  From: Michel Baguet 
> >  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> >  Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5:05 PM
> >  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?
> >
> >
> >  I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of 
HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) 
and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
> >  The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with 
heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you 
don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board 
to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. 
If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
> >  If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc 
(obvious !).
> >  But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often 
replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small 
traces. A 200cm² double sided board with 35µ copper take between 4 to 
6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45°C.
> >
> >  clintonlcorbin <clcorbin@...> wrote: Folks,
> >
> >  First, I want to say "Hi". I just recently started making my own
> >  single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the 
group. 
> >  There is a lot of great info here!
> >
> >  The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
> >  muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). I found the
> >  formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs. As I was 
wanting to
> >  try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and 
low
> >  cost, I decided to give it a try.
> >
> >  All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far. I
> >  haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
> >  devices are 0603, so they are pretty big. The etchant is clear, 
so it
> >  is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching 
process.
> >  Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with 
no
> >  heating at all. It generally takes about three minutes to fully 
etch
> >  the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.
> >
> >  So the questions are:
> >
> >  1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
> >  2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
> >  3) Anything else I should be aware of?
> >  4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can 
give
> >  a pros/cons?
> >
> >  Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.
> >
> >  Clint
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >   
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
> >
> >
> >  No virus found in this incoming message.
> >  Checked by AVG. 
> >  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1455 - Release 
Date: 19/05/2008 17:04

> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks to all who replied to my question. I'll investigate the all the suggestions.

73's

Steve

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Harvey White 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 8:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?


  On Thu, 22 May 2008 19:08:29 +0100, you wrote:

  >Hello Group,
  >
  >I've been following this discussion with interest and would like to move away from etching pcb's with ferric chloride.
  >I live in the UK and wonder if anyone knows of a supplier of the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide to home users. My local chemist was no help at all and didn't have a clue.

  Home supply stores often have muriatic acid (HCl) for pool cleaning
  supplies. However, the last time I was in the UK, I noticed a
  suspicious lack of such things. You might find it used for cleaning
  concrete or bricks, though.

  If you have a Walmart or equivalent, you might find hydrogen peroxide
  sold in largish quantities as a disinfectant. It is also possibly
  available from beauty supply stores in a higher concentration.

  Harvey

  >Any help greatly appreciated!
  >
  >Steve
  > ----- Original Message ----- 
  > From: Michel Baguet 
  > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5:05 PM
  > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] H2O2 + muriatic acid etchant?
  >
  >
  > I'm using HCl for a years. 700cc of distilled water, 270cc of HCl highly concentrate (you can see smoke when the bottle is open) and 30cc of H202 at 30% concentration.
  > The only problem with this etchant is that H2O2 decompose with heat and light and if you etch another board a few days later, you don't know what part of H2O2 is still in solution. So I put the board to etch in the tank and take it out to see the color of the copper. If there is still enough H2O2, it must turn brown immediately.
  > If not, I add 10cc and son on but never more than 30cc (obvious !).
  > But the cost of HCl, H2O and H2O2 is so cheap that I often replace the etchant, to always get accurate results with small traces. A 200cm² double sided board with 35µ copper take between 4 to 6 min. in bubble etch tank @ 45°C.
  >
  > clintonlcorbin <clcorbin@...> wrote: Folks,
  >
  > First, I want to say "Hi". I just recently started making my own
  > single and two sided PCBs and even more recently joined the group. 
  > There is a lot of great info here!
  >
  > The question I have regards the etchant I have been using: 1 part
  > muriatic acid and 2 parts H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). I found the
  > formula on a web page about (what else) DIY PCBs. As I was wanting to
  > try making my own PCBs and the materials were easy to obtain and low
  > cost, I decided to give it a try.
  >
  > All in all, I have been quite happy with the results so far. I
  > haven't tried any real fine line etching yet and the smallest SMD
  > devices are 0603, so they are pretty big. The etchant is clear, so it
  > is very easy to keep your eye on the board during the etching process.
  > Plus, I have been doing all my etching at room temperature with no
  > heating at all. It generally takes about three minutes to fully etch
  > the small (2x3" are the largest so far) boards I am working with.
  >
  > So the questions are:
  >
  > 1) How does this etchant compare to more traditional etchants?
  > 2) Does it have over etch / under etch issues with finer lines?
  > 3) Anything else I should be aware of?
  > 4) Anyone else used this etchant along with the others that can give
  > a pros/cons?
  >
  > Thanks for the help and all the info in this group.
  >
  > Clint
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  >
  >----------------------------------------------------------
  >
  >
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG. 
  > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1455 - Release Date: 19/05/2008 17:04
  >
  >
  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


   


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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG. 
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1459 - Release Date: 21/05/2008 17:34


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]