Homebrew PCBs

I just found this at harbour freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94276

for $60, a 8 inch by 7 inch travel milling/press vise.
I suspect no one is going to get single digit mil repeats with this,
but it should be both better and easier than hand moving under a press.
Hope it helps someone,
Richard

Hi

When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it 
really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it 
is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.

Not only that, the insulation is tough and stripping back just 1mm from 
a 1inch length is a bit taxing.

Anyone got any good tips or tool suggestions for this job? Or perhaps 
you use a different/better kind of wire for the task.

Pete

The insulation on the wire I use is heat sensitive.  I run the tip of my soldering iron along one side.  That essentially removes a small strip of insulation.  The insulation can then be peeled back from the wire as far back as the strip and clipped off in the usual manner.  The wire I use is from RadioShack and unfortunately the actual manufacturer is not listed for it.  John

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Peter Harrison 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 5:05 AM
  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] stripping wirewrap wire


  Hi

  When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it 
  really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it 
  is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.

  Not only that, the insulation is tough and stripping back just 1mm from 
  a 1inch length is a bit taxing.

  Anyone got any good tips or tool suggestions for this job? Or perhaps 
  you use a different/better kind of wire for the task.

  Pete



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:05:19 +0200, Peter Harrison  
<peter.harrison@...> wrote:

> Hi
> When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it
> really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it
> is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.
> Not only that, the insulation is tough and stripping back just 1mm from
> a 1inch length is a bit taxing.
> Anyone got any good tips or tool suggestions for this job? Or perhaps
> you use a different/better kind of wire for the task.
> Pete


Which isolation does your wire have?
There is usually a stripping tool on a manual wirewrapping tool, which  
should do the job. But they seemed way too much work to me and i always  
used the electrical tool so i have no experience how well/bad it works.

There is however something simple i made for a similar application.  
Commercial strippers often don't work very well for thin wires. So i  
started with a pair of miniature side-cutting pliers, and ground the flat  
side down so that they resemble electronics cutters like these:  
<http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/ECLIPSE200-002.jpg> (you can skip the  
step alltogether, either buy electronics cutters to start with or the  
miniature side cutting pliers will probably still work even with the wider  
cutting edge. My tools shop does not carry electronics cutters and the  
small side cutting pliers are cheaper).

Now comes the important part: grind a notch in each side of the mouth with  
a proxxon (or dremel if you must) cutoff wheel. The notch must be small,  
just the diameter of the wire, and of course in the same place on both  
sides. If you grind the notch at an angle, so that a sharp blade results  
all-round, you will get the best result.

I made this custom/homemade wire stripper for a very special wire, it is  
triple isolated with a laquer layer over the wire then a layer of either  
silk or a synthetic fiber spun around it and then another layer of laquer.  
I have a great bunch of 2 meter pieces of that wire in many colors and  
color combinations. Somehow i got it into my head that i must use this  
wire for solderless breadboard links. You guess it: about a zillion ends  
to strip. We could discuss the sanity of using such a tricky wire for  
breadboard use, but i'd rather not.
Anyway, as you can guess, nicking the wire is not an option for  
breadboards. None of the strippers in my sizeable collection could deal  
with it, either it would leave the innermost laquer layer, or it would  
nick it, or it would badly fray the silk. The modified side cutting pliers  
with a notch of just the right size do a great job.

There is one special reason why i like the wire. If you put too much  
current across it (as in a short) the outer layer of isolation will  
blister/bubble up. This will show the path a short took without any real  
damage.

ST

In article <4629D3CF.6000407@...>,
   Peter Harrison <peter.harrison@...> wrote:
> Hi

> When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it 
> really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it 
> is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.

In all my years in electronics, both as a professional and hobbyist, I
have only come across one supplier with decent strippers for small wire.

http://www.longs.co.uk/acatalog/info.html

I think they are part number HT1299011 but it's a long time since I bought
mine and it's impossible to tell from the illustration and description.

I think these are by Excelite but mine are made in France and because of
the stylised writing I cannot discern the manufacturer but could be
safico. Mine are 130mm long with red plastic covered handles

> I just found this at harbour freight:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94276

-------------------------------------------

I've been to harbor freight and seen that up close.  It looks like a 
fun little toy.  Using it for drilling holes appears to be like 
overkill.

Whats wrong with positioning it with your hand?

Peter Harrison:

No Brainer.

Do a Google for wire wrap tools.
Dozens of hits for wrappers, strippers, etc.
OK Tools makes some inexpensive items.

Roland F. Harriston
*******************



Peter Harrison wrote:

>
> Hi
>
> When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it
> really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it
> is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.
>
> Not only that, the insulation is tough and stripping back just 1mm from
> a 1inch length is a bit taxing.
>
> Anyone got any good tips or tool suggestions for this job? Or perhaps
> you use a different/better kind of wire for the task.
>
> Pete
>
>

> > I just found this at harbour freight:
> > 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94276
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> I've been to harbor freight and seen that up close.  It looks 
> like a fun little toy.  Using it for drilling holes appears 
> to be like overkill.
> 
> Whats wrong with positioning it with your hand?


What's wrong with sticking stepper motors on it?  You too could avoid
boredom, lungs full of fibreglass dust, and a headache from the Dremel
noise.

You can also experience the joy when you discover that the drill broke just
as you turned your back...

Tony

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...> wrote:
>
> > I just found this at harbour freight:
> > 
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94276
> 
> -------------------------------------------
> 
> I've been to harbor freight and seen that up close.  It looks like a 
> fun little toy.  Using it for drilling holes appears to be like 
> overkill.
> 
> Whats wrong with positioning it with your hand?
>
 I don't know about _your_ hands, but with my hands I have to fight
shaking and poor vision.  With this (and later cnc), I only have to
align one or two locations, and make sure the edge is parallel, and it
pretty much count turns on the crank to go to new whole locations.

Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> Peter Harrison:
> 
> No Brainer.
> 
> Do a Google for wire wrap tools.
> Dozens of hits for wrappers, strippers, etc.
> OK Tools makes some inexpensive items.
> 
> Roland F. Harriston
> *******************
> 

Perhaps not.

There are indeed a large number of cutters and strippers. The variety 
available for Xcelite alone is absurdly large. without seeing them and 
trying them, it is all but impossible to tell whether they are any use 
for the task.

The stripper in a typical hand-wrap tool for example, I find all but 
useless as I can get an adequate grip on the wire and to leave a short 
strip of 1mm or so needs two operations - a long strip followed by 
trimming back.

This is why I asked for the voice of experience.

I like Stefan's idea. I may be able to make something like it by taking 
some relatively cheap cutters, abuse them on a small piece of piano wire 
to make the notch, then grind back a cutting edge.

Of course, I could just make good boards in the first place.

Pete

fOn Sat, 21 Apr 2007 20:32:42 +0200, rmustakos <rmustakos@...>  
wrote:

>
>  I don't know about _your_ hands, but with my hands I have to fight
> shaking and poor vision.  With this (and later cnc), I only have to
> align one or two locations, and make sure the edge is parallel, and it
> pretty much count turns on the crank to go to new whole locations.


It would probably take very long compared to manual positioning.

ST

>  I don't know about _your_ hands, but with my hands I have to fight
> shaking and poor vision.  With this (and later cnc), I only have to
> align one or two locations, and make sure the edge is parallel, and it
> pretty much count turns on the crank to go to new whole locations.

If your hands are not steady and vision is poor, I would suggest buying 
a cheap ebay cnc machine.  You can drill holes, mill shapes, route-out 
circuit board patterns, and even mount a resist-pen to the head and 
draw resist patterns.

A cnc machine opens up an entire world of new possibilities and makes 
eveything more complex.  You can certain do alot more stuff, if you 
have the patience to trouble shoot frequent problems on the machine, 
and follow natural instinct to upgrade.

I'm an old-timer, so I probably do things a lot differently than is
common practice nowadays.

Whenever I need to patch up a trace on one of my homebrew PCB's, I get a 
length of
stranded wire and pull out the individual strands and use one strand to 
make the patch.
I can usually find a piece of stranded wire that is comprised of 
individual wires that
have the correct diameter (gauge) for the patch I'm attempting to make.

A lot of strands in stranded wire bundles are plated, and exhibit 
excellent solderability.
I usually "hack" off a length of stranded wire about 12 inches long, and 
use the
individual  strands as described above. It's not too difficult to remove 
the outer insulating
jacket from stranded wire cables, exposing the individual strands.

This technique is cheaper and less frustrating than trying to strip the 
insulation from
wire wrap wire, which is annealed to make it easily wrap around a wire 
wrap pin, and is thus
easily scratched, dented and nicked.

Roland F. Harriston
*******************


Peter Harrison wrote:

>
> Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> > Peter Harrison:
> >
> > No Brainer.
> >
> > Do a Google for wire wrap tools.
> > Dozens of hits for wrappers, strippers, etc.
> > OK Tools makes some inexpensive items.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston
> > ************ *******
> >
>
> Perhaps not.
>
> There are indeed a large number of cutters and strippers. The variety
> available for Xcelite alone is absurdly large. without seeing them and
> trying them, it is all but impossible to tell whether they are any use
> for the task.
>
> The stripper in a typical hand-wrap tool for example, I find all but
> useless as I can get an adequate grip on the wire and to leave a short
> strip of 1mm or so needs two operations - a long strip followed by
> trimming back.
>
> This is why I asked for the voice of experience.
>
> I like Stefan's idea. I may be able to make something like it by taking
> some relatively cheap cutters, abuse them on a small piece of piano wire
> to make the notch, then grind back a cutting edge.
>
> Of course, I could just make good boards in the first place.
>
> Pete
>
>

> Peter H wrote:
>
> <SNIP>
> The stripper in a typical hand-wrap tool
> for example, I find all but useless as I
> can get an adequate grip on the wire and
> to leave a short strip of 1mm or so
> needs two operations - a long strip
> followed by trimming back.
> <SNIP>

I find the stripper stored in the back of
my little hand-wrap tool to be fine for
getting off 1mm or so of insulation from
the wire.

The trick is to slide it down the blade
and then once it is at the bottom - spin
the tool around 180 degrees (WRT the wire
axis).  Spin more than 180 degrees and
you may compromise the wire.

John P. Anhalt wrote:
> The insulation on the wire I use is heat sensitive.  I run the tip of my soldering iron along one side.  That essentially removes a small strip of insulation.  The insulation can then be peeled back from the wire as far back as the strip and clipped off in the usual manner.  The wire I use is from RadioShack and unfortunately the actual manufacturer is not listed for it.  John
>  
>  
If you are using Radio Shack's 30-gauge wrapping wire, then just get 
their wire wrapping tool:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243

It comes with a wire stripper that strips this wire perfectly.  But only 
a strip-mall RadioShack will carry this tool.

Cheers,

Bryan

If you need to place jumper wires on the PCB and you have to have the 
jumpers insulated,
there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that 
quickly disintegrates when
the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.

I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think 
it is readily available.
I have a bunch of it that I got from old inductances and transformers.

Roland  F. Harriston
*******************

Andrew wrote:

>
> > Peter H wrote:
> >
> > <SNIP>
> > The stripper in a typical hand-wrap tool
> > for example, I find all but useless as I
> > can get an adequate grip on the wire and
> > to leave a short strip of 1mm or so
> > needs two operations - a long strip
> > followed by trimming back.
> > <SNIP>
>
> I find the stripper stored in the back of
> my little hand-wrap tool to be fine for
> getting off 1mm or so of insulation from
> the wire.
>
> The trick is to slide it down the blade
> and then once it is at the bottom - spin
> the tool around 180 degrees (WRT the wire
> axis). Spin more than 180 degrees and
> you may compromise the wire.
>
>

> Roland F wrote:
>
> If you need to place jumper wires on the
> PCB and you have to have the jumpers
> insulated, there is a type of magnet
> wire that has a type of insulation that 
> quickly disintegrates when the heat from
> a soldering iron is applied to it.
> 
> I don't recall the name of this type of
> coated magnet wire, but I think it is
> readily available. I have a bunch of it
> that I got from old inductances and
> transformers.

Solderable Polyester Coated Wire.

There is also another type I sell called
ButylBond which is a solderable polyester
insulation with a butyl heat activated
glue on the outside.

Andrew:

Thanks for the information.
After I posted the message, I went to the Essex Wire Co. website and
found that the solderable magnet wire I mentioned is, indeed, polyester 
coated.

Roland F.  Harriston
*******************



Andrew wrote:

>
> > Roland F wrote:
> >
> > If you need to place jumper wires on the
> > PCB and you have to have the jumpers
> > insulated, there is a type of magnet
> > wire that has a type of insulation that
> > quickly disintegrates when the heat from
> > a soldering iron is applied to it.
> >
> > I don't recall the name of this type of
> > coated magnet wire, but I think it is
> > readily available. I have a bunch of it
> > that I got from old inductances and
> > transformers.
>
> Solderable Polyester Coated Wire.
>
> There is also another type I sell called
> ButylBond which is a solderable polyester
> insulation with a butyl heat activated
> glue on the outside.
>
>

I've always read that wire wrap wire is designed to be soldered
without stripping.I just run it through the flame of a lighter or
match. The plastic just burns off instantly and leaves the wire
behind. You might want to open a window seeing as how burning plastic
has toxic fumes, but I don't, its such a small amount.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Peter Harrison
<peter.harrison@...> wrote:

>
> Hi
> 
> When I need to use a bit or wirewrap wire to patch a board, I find it 
> really hard to strip the ends without nicking the wire. Once nicked, it 
> is only a matter of time before the wire fails at that point.
> 
> Not only that, the insulation is tough and stripping back just 1mm from 
> a 1inch length is a bit taxing.
> 
> Anyone got any good tips or tool suggestions for this job? Or perhaps 
> you use a different/better kind of wire for the task.
> 
> Pete
>

> If your hands are not steady and vision is poor, I would suggest buying 
> a cheap ebay cnc machine.  You can drill holes, mill shapes, route-out 
> circuit board patterns, and even mount a resist-pen to the head and 
> draw resist patterns.
> 
> A cnc machine opens up an entire world of new possibilities and makes 
> eveything more complex.  You can certain do alot more stuff, if you 
> have the patience to trouble shoot frequent problems on the machine, 
> and follow natural instinct to upgrade.
>
Well, if I could find the cheap ones, I would.  And if I had enough
money to think the ones I did find were cheap, I could be sending all
my boards out to be made for me!
I remember that Ballendo was talking about selling some for a while,
did that go anywhere?
Richard

Andrew wrote:

> The trick is to slide it down the blade
> and then once it is at the bottom - spin
> the tool around 180 degrees (WRT the wire
> axis).  Spin more than 180 degrees and
> you may compromise the wire.
> 

Oh yes. That is so simple and makes it much easier. now slightly abashed 
at not having thought f that.

Pete

Andrew wrote:
>> Roland F wrote:
>>
>> If you need to place jumper wires on the
>> PCB and you have to have the jumpers
>> insulated, there is a type of magnet
>> wire that has a type of insulation that 
>> quickly disintegrates when the heat from
>> a soldering iron is applied to it.
>>
>> I don't recall the name of this type of
>> coated magnet wire, but I think it is
>> readily available. I have a bunch of it
>> that I got from old inductances and
>> transformers.
> 
> Solderable Polyester Coated Wire.
> 
> There is also another type I sell called
> ButylBond which is a solderable polyester
> insulation with a butyl heat activated
> glue on the outside.
> 
>
Excellent. I will look some up.

Pete

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Peter Harrison
<peter.harrison@...> wrote:
>
> Andrew wrote:
> >> Roland F wrote:
> >>
> >> If you need to place jumper wires on the
> >> PCB and you have to have the jumpers
> >> insulated, there is a type of magnet
> >> wire that has a type of insulation that 
> >> quickly disintegrates when the heat from
> >> a soldering iron is applied to it.
> >>



One source for this type of wire is Deaborn searies SP / SPN wire. 
It's decribed as 'solderable' meaning you don't have to remove the
insulation before soldering to it.

One source (and the best prices I've found) is Allied Electronics
(alliedelec.com).  Wow, it's almost doubled in price in the last few
months with the copper prices going up.



http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/searchresults.asp?N=0&Ntt=magnet%20wire%2030&Ntk=Primary&sid=462BF70075D9617F&i=0
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=293-0336&SEARCH=&MPN=30SPN%2D2&DESC=30SPN%2D2&R=293%2D0336&sid=462BF7005745617F
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/DEARBORN_CDT/DearbornCDT_Interconnect-Wire-and-Cable_2930300.pdf



I also have a stripper that works pretty good for wire-wrap wire.

HT Tools  HT5023 is the one I like best and is only about $10 from
Jameco Electronics (Jameco # 159290). 

PGD

As I recall my "ancient" days of doing wirewrap by hand, I can't 
remember that I had very much
trouble stripping the wire, using the correct tool.  Without the proper 
stripper,
it can be a PITA because of the nature of the wire itself.

Roland F. Harriston
*******************


pgdion1 wrote:

>
> I also have a stripper that works pretty good for wire-wrap wire.
>
> HT Tools HT5023 is the one I like best and is only about $10 from
> Jameco Electronics (Jameco # 159290).
>
> PGD
>
>

Well, by a sort of coincidence, I came across the Radio Shack wire-wrap 
tool.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243&cp

I even found a supplier in the UK who had one. It is very cheap compared 
to a 'proper' hand wrap tool and has a little stripping tool in the 
handle. This tool is only about 35mm long and proves to be exactly what 
I have been looking for. It reliably strips 30AWG wire and seems to 
leave no nicks on the conductor. It is much easier to use than the 
typical stripper built into the usual type of hand wrap tool. I may have 
to order a couple more for the inevitable day when I cant find it.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Pete

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "Peter Harrison" <peter.harrison@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] stripping wirewrap wire


> Well, by a sort of coincidence, I came across the Radio Shack wire-wrap
> tool.
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243&cp
>
> I even found a supplier in the UK who had one. It is very cheap compared
> to a 'proper' hand wrap tool and has a little stripping tool in the
> handle. This tool is only about 35mm long and proves to be exactly what
> I have been looking for. It reliably strips 30AWG wire and seems to
> leave no nicks on the conductor. It is much easier to use than the
> typical stripper built into the usual type of hand wrap tool. I may have
> to order a couple more for the inevitable day when I cant find it.


I remember buying one of those here in the UK, it must have been 30 years 
ago. I didn't like the stripping tool very much, although it was better than 
the one built-in to the other hand tool (made by OK, IIRC). I used a 
separate wire stripper.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
Yaesu FT-817ND and FT-857D transceivers
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:
> there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
> quickly disintegrates when
> the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
>
> I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think
> it is readily available.

Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
<http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>
Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>

-Michael

> peterh wrote:
>
> Well, by a sort of coincidence, I came across
> the Radio Shack wire-wrap tool.
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243&cp
> 
> I even found a supplier in the UK who had one.
> It is very cheap compared to a 'proper' hand
> wrap tool and has a little stripping tool in
> the handle.
> <SNIP>

I always thought that WAS the standard wire wrap
tool.  It's the only one I have ever seen out
here in OZ without going to motorized post-post
wrap tools.

Michael Taylor:

I think every wire maker has its own name for this material.
In the case of Amidon, Inc., I definitely know that
it is not "Formvar".

Formvar is a very, very tough coating that is not easy to
remove.

As mentioned previously, I always seem to have a bunch of
the kind of magnet wire with the easy, heat-disintregrating
coating, mostly from old inductors and transformers.

Roland F. Harriston
*******************
michael taylor wrote:

>
> On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@... 
> <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
> > there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
> > quickly disintegrates when
> > the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
> >
> > I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think
> > it is readily available.
>
> Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm 
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>>
> Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html 
> <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>>
>
> -Michael
>
>

Enameled copper wire- available at Radio shack :)
 
- k wolf 

-----Original Message-----
From: mctylr@...
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 6 May 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire


On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:
> there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
> quickly disintegrates when
> the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
>
> I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think
> it is readily available.

Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
<http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>
Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>

-Michael

 
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kevin:
Does RS indicate what type of
insulation they use? The issue
here is magnet wire that has a
special type of polymer coating
that disintegrates under the heat
of a (small) soldering iron.

Roland F. Harriston
*******************
kevinmwolf@... wrote:

>
> Enameled copper wire- available at Radio shack :)
>
> - k wolf
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mctylr@... <mailto:mctylr%40gmail.com>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sun, 6 May 2007 2:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire
>
> On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@... 
> <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
> > there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
> > quickly disintegrates when
> > the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
> >
> > I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think
> > it is readily available.
>
> Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm 
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>>
> Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html 
> <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>>
>
> -Michael
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free 
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Every magnet wire manufacturer makes that stuff.  "Soderon" and "Soldereze" are a couple of trademarks for this kind of magnet wire.

The realties of thermodynamics necessitates that it is only available in the moderate temperature rated wires.  Stated otherwise, you will not find such self cleaning insulation in 200 degree C class magnet wires.

See this page toward the bottom for a table on magnet wire:
http://www.logwell.com/tech/CCL/magnet_wire.html

Syd H. Levine
AnaLog Services, Inc.
Phone:  (270) 276-5671
Telefax:  (270) 276-5588
E-mail:  analog@...
Web URL:  www.logwell.com

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Roland F. Harriston 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire


  Kevin:
  Does RS indicate what type of
  insulation they use? The issue
  here is magnet wire that has a
  special type of polymer coating
  that disintegrates under the heat
  of a (small) soldering iron.

  Roland F. Harriston
  *******************
  kevinmwolf@... wrote:
  >
  > Enameled copper wire- available at Radio shack :)
  >
  > - k wolf
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: mctylr@... <mailto:mctylr%40gmail.com>
  > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
  > Sent: Sun, 6 May 2007 2:27 PM
  > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire
  >
  > On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@... 
  > <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
  > > there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
  > > quickly disintegrates when
  > > the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
  > >
  > > I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I think
  > > it is readily available.
  >
  > Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
  > <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm 
  > <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>>
  > Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html 
  > <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>>
  >
  > -Michael
  >
  > __________________________________________________________
  > AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free 
  > from AOL at AOL.com.
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Analog Services, Inc:

Your statement is valid.
There are applications for magnet wire where
the operating temps of an inductance might
go pretty high, and some coating like "Formvar"
or the like is absolutely necessary.

In my case, I do not now design or build inductances
that operate anywhere near the max temps that, say,
Formvar can withstand, so the use of "Soderon", Soldereze"
coating,  or whatever they call it would have no adverse result
on my stuff.

And, If one  were to consider the  current capacity
of the size of magnet wire that most of us would use
on our homemade PCB's, let alone lack of high temp
operation, I don't think that the various types of
coatings that disintegrate under normal hand soldering
operations would be a problem.

Roland F. Harriston




AnaLog Services, Inc. wrote:

>
> Every magnet wire manufacturer makes that stuff. "Soderon" and 
> "Soldereze" are a couple of trademarks for this kind of magnet wire.
>
> The realties of thermodynamics necessitates that it is only available 
> in the moderate temperature rated wires. Stated otherwise, you will 
> not find such self cleaning insulation in 200 degree C class magnet wires.
>
> See this page toward the bottom for a table on magnet wire:
> http://www.logwell.com/tech/CCL/magnet_wire.html 
> <http://www.logwell.com/tech/CCL/magnet_wire.html>
>
> Syd H. Levine
> AnaLog Services, Inc.
> Phone: (270) 276-5671
> Telefax: (270) 276-5588
> E-mail: analog@... <mailto:analog%40logwell.com>
> Web URL: www.logwell.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Roland F. Harriston
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire
>
> Kevin:
> Does RS indicate what type of
> insulation they use? The issue
> here is magnet wire that has a
> special type of polymer coating
> that disintegrates under the heat
> of a (small) soldering iron.
>
> Roland F. Harriston
> *******************
> kevinmwolf@... <mailto:kevinmwolf%40aol.com> wrote:
> >
> > Enameled copper wire- available at Radio shack :)
> >
> > - k wolf
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mctylr@... <mailto:mctylr%40gmail.com> 
> <mailto:mctylr%40gmail.com>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sun, 6 May 2007 2:27 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: stripping wirewrap wire
> >
> > On 4/21/07, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@... 
> <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>
> > <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
> > > there is a type of magnet wire that has a type of insulation that
> > > quickly disintegrates when
> > > the heat from a soldering iron is applied to it.
> > >
> > > I don't recall the name of this type of coated magnet wire, but I 
> think
> > > it is readily available.
> >
> > Thermaleze is the name Amidon Inc. uses.
> > <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm 
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>
> > <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm 
> <http://www.amidoncorp.com/aai_cost_enamel.htm>>>
> > Also available from: <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html 
> <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>
> > <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html 
> <http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html>>>
> >
> > -Michael
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> > from AOL at AOL.com.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

On Sun, 06 May 2007 23:32:55 +0200, Andrew <andrewm1973@...> wrote:

>
> I always thought that WAS the standard wire wrap
> tool.  It's the only one I have ever seen out
> here in OZ without going to motorized post-post
> wrap tools.


This seems to be the standard tool:
<http://www.action-electronics.com/grc/okwsu30m.jpg>

I never saw how the stripper (small metal plate with slot in the center of  
the handle) might possibly be used effectively.
An electric tool was available so i never touched the manual one to find  
out....

As for magnet wire - there are special wiring tools a bit like a  
mechanical pencil with a spool of wire on the end.
<http://images.mercateo.com/images/products/RS_Components/gr_ca111488_01.jpg>
They should make it easy to wrap the wire around pins. But since the tip  
is plastic care must be taken to cut the wire before soldering or the tip  
will be damaged. I did not get a chance to try them because i saw them in  
a school, where of course no care whatsoever was taken to cut the wire  
before soldering and the tip was _badly_ damaged on all available units.


ST