Homebrew PCBs

Hey all,
I'm a new member here. I've had my hand in homemade pcb's, but I just 
recently got back into it. I would like to share a few tips with 
everybody so they can avoid the same mistakes that I made. First off, I 
like to soak my boards in mouthwash (target brand "original antiseptic 
mouthrinse)- The paper becomes saturated almost immediately. I get 
quick paper removal this way without too much wait. 

Also, I bought a Brother laser printer from staples- It was on sale for 
$100 after rebate. I tried all of the recommended photo paper with no 
success. I bought a used HP laser, and got it PERFECT on the first try. 
So the Brother brand is definitly one to stay away from.

Good luck with your pcb endeavors,
-kevin wolf

Kevin Wolf:

Can you be a bit more specific:
Which Brother machine (model number) did not serve your purpose?
Which HP laser (model number) machine did you purchase?


Thanks

Roland F. Harriston
*********************


kevinmwolf288 wrote:

>
> Hey all,
> I'm a new member here. I've had my hand in homemade pcb's, but I just
> recently got back into it. I would like to share a few tips with
> everybody so they can avoid the same mistakes that I made. First off, I
> like to soak my boards in mouthwash (target brand "original antiseptic
> mouthrinse)- The paper becomes saturated almost immediately. I get
> quick paper removal this way without too much wait.
>
> Also, I bought a Brother laser printer from staples- It was on sale for
> $100 after rebate. I tried all of the recommended photo paper with no
> success. I bought a used HP laser, and got it PERFECT on the first try.
> So the Brother brand is definitly one to stay away from.
>
> Good luck with your pcb endeavors,
> -kevin wolf
>
>

The actual Hammermill number for the paper I inquired about a few days 
ago is:

#163020

The number given by another list member (229030) is most likely the 
Sam's Club stock number.

A Google search revealed that the paper is available at a number of 
sellers, a few are listed below.

http://www.instawares.com/officeone-business-gloss-paper.ham163020.0.7.htm

http://www.suitesupply.com/hammermill.ham163020.01.htm

http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/skugroup38961.html

The paper also shows up on the Office Depot website.

At about 8 bucks for 300 sheets, if this stuff works, it's a real winner
for high-volume users.


Roland F. Harriston

Roland,

The brother printer is model number HL-2070N. It is identical to the HL-2040
(but with networking feature). The new HP is a Laserjet 1012. The papers I
tested include Staples photo basic (471861), office depot inkjet
transparencies, Epson photo paper glossy and 3M transparencies. I've only
tested the Staples paper so far with the HP.

-Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Roland F. Harriston
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 11:10 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Mouthwash

 

Kevin Wolf:

Can you be a bit more specific:
Which Brother machine (model number) did not serve your purpose?
Which HP laser (model number) machine did you purchase?

Thanks

Roland F. Harriston
*********************

kevinmwolf288 wrote:
>
> Hey all,
> I'm a new member here. I've had my hand in homemade pcb's, but I just
> recently got back into it. I would like to share a few tips with
> everybody so they can avoid the same mistakes that I made. First off, I
> like to soak my boards in mouthwash (target brand "original antiseptic
> mouthrinse)- The paper becomes saturated almost immediately. I get
> quick paper removal this way without too much wait.
>
> Also, I bought a Brother laser printer from staples- It was on sale for
> $100 after rebate. I tried all of the recommended photo paper with no
> success. I bought a used HP laser, and got it PERFECT on the first try.
> So the Brother brand is definitly one to stay away from.
>
> Good luck with your pcb endeavors,
> -kevin wolf
>
> 

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kevin:

Thanks for the information.

Roland F. Harriston

*********************

K Wolf wrote:

>
> Roland,
>
> The brother printer is model number HL-2070N. It is identical to the 
> HL-2040
> (but with networking feature). The new HP is a Laserjet 1012. The papers I
> tested include Staples photo basic (471861), office depot inkjet
> transparencies, Epson photo paper glossy and 3M transparencies. I've only
> tested the Staples paper so far with the HP.
>
> -Kevin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@ 
> yahoogroups. com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of Roland F. Harriston
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 11:10 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Mouthwash
>
> Kevin Wolf:
>
> Can you be a bit more specific:
> Which Brother machine (model number) did not serve your purpose?
> Which HP laser (model number) machine did you purchase?
>
> Thanks
>
> Roland F. Harriston
> ************ *********
>
> kevinmwolf288 wrote:
> >
> > Hey all,
> > I'm a new member here. I've had my hand in homemade pcb's, but I just
> > recently got back into it. I would like to share a few tips with
> > everybody so they can avoid the same mistakes that I made. First off, I
> > like to soak my boards in mouthwash (target brand "original antiseptic
> > mouthrinse)- The paper becomes saturated almost immediately. I get
> > quick paper removal this way without too much wait.
> >
> > Also, I bought a Brother laser printer from staples- It was on sale for
> > $100 after rebate. I tried all of the recommended photo paper with no
> > success. I bought a used HP laser, and got it PERFECT on the first try.
> > So the Brother brand is definitly one to stay away from.
> >
> > Good luck with your pcb endeavors,
> > -kevin wolf
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

Hi all,
I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
Works for TT much better with very much shorter
Ironing times.
I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
Printers, that they can be made to work.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kevinmwolf288" <kevinmwolf@...>
wrote:
>
... stuff deleted ...
> Also, I bought a Brother laser printer from staples- It was on sale for 
> $100 after rebate. I tried all of the recommended photo paper with no 
> success. I bought a used HP laser, and got it PERFECT on the first try. 
> So the Brother brand is definitly one to stay away from.
> 
> Good luck with your pcb endeavors,
> -kevin wolf
>

I have an older Brother HL-5040 and have never been successful using
it for toner transfer ( a real shame since its a great printer ).

Art

At 08:39 07/04/17, Digest Number 2073 wrote:
>     Posted by: "kevinmwolf288" kevinmwolf@... kevinmwolf288
>     Date: Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:23 pm ((PDT))
>
>[snip] I like to soak my boards in mouthwash (target brand
>"original antiseptic mouthrinse)-

Does this contain alcohol?

>The paper becomes saturated almost immediately.

Alcohol would explain most of that.

In which case, the cheapest supermarket brand would do,
unless you like to choose the way your boards smell:
exotic eucalyptus, cool menthol, or original carbolic ;-)

Buddy Brown:

Thanks for the information.
I suspected all-along that the problem was with
the toner, rather than the printer itself.

Roland F. Harriston
*********************
Buddy Brown wrote:

>
> Hi all,
> I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
> But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
> Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
> Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
> Works for TT much better with very much shorter
> Ironing times.
> I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
> To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
> Printers, that they can be made to work.
>
>

Sorry for my sluggishness,  this is a bad week!  I am using the
Hammermill paper and it's working great for me.

Roland is correct, I checked my package and it is Hammermill # 163020
 with UPC code  010199163028  (ment to do this Monday night after
reading the posts but ... argh, what a week)

The assumptions of needing to be a Sam's club member to buy from them
even online are correct, I forgot about that. I did have trouble
locating this paper elsewhere but I imagine it could be ordered
through an Office Max or Staples maybe.

There is an HP paper too that is similar which Best Buy carries but is
about $15 for I think a smaller pack. Not a bad price but as the
Hammermill stuff is working good for me, I'm happy.
I forget the number off hand but if anyone is interested, I'll look it
up and post it again.

Phil
KA0HBG





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> The actual Hammermill number for the paper I inquired about a few days 
> ago is:
> 
> #163020
> 
> The number given by another list member (229030) is most likely the 
> Sam's Club stock number.
> 
> A Google search revealed that the paper is available at a number of 
> sellers, a few are listed below.
> 
>
http://www.instawares.com/officeone-business-gloss-paper.ham163020.0.7.htm

> 
> http://www.suitesupply.com/hammermill.ham163020.01.htm
> 
> http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/skugroup38961.html
> 
> The paper also shows up on the Office Depot website.
> 
> At about 8 bucks for 300 sheets, if this stuff works, it's a real winner
> for high-volume users.
> 
> 
> Roland F. Harriston
>

Phil:
Thanks for the additional information regarding Hammermill 163020.
None of my local Office Max or Office Depot stores were able to order
the paper because it did not "show up" on their computers.
Office Depot indicated that the paper was only available via their website.

There are no Staples stores in my immediate area.

I ordered the paper from Instawares, LLC whose home office is in
Kennesaw, Georgia. They drop-shipped the paper from one of their
many distribution points, which was at Tempe,  Arizona,  the closest
one to my location (Tucson).  Delivery was made via UPS in less than
24 hours at the regular UPS Ground shipping rate.
 
Instawares has distribution points nationwide.

I will have a chance to check out the paper sometime next week.

Roland  F.  Harriston
********************

pgdion1 wrote:

>
> Sorry for my sluggishness, this is a bad week! I am using the
> Hammermill paper and it's working great for me.
>
> Roland is correct, I checked my package and it is Hammermill # 163020
> with UPC code 010199163028 (ment to do this Monday night after
> reading the posts but ... argh, what a week)
>
> The assumptions of needing to be a Sam's club member to buy from them
> even online are correct, I forgot about that. I did have trouble
> locating this paper elsewhere but I imagine it could be ordered
> through an Office Max or Staples maybe.
>
> There is an HP paper too that is similar which Best Buy carries but is
> about $15 for I think a smaller pack. Not a bad price but as the
> Hammermill stuff is working good for me, I'm happy.
> I forget the number off hand but if anyone is interested, I'll look it
> up and post it again.
>
> Phil
> KA0HBG
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Roland F. Harriston"
> <rolohar@... > wrote:
> >
> > The actual Hammermill number for the paper I inquired about a few days
> > ago is:
> >
> > #163020
> >
> > The number given by another list member (229030) is most likely the
> > Sam's Club stock number.
> >
> > A Google search revealed that the paper is available at a number of
> > sellers, a few are listed below.
> >
> >
> http://www.instawar es.com/officeone -business- gloss-paper. 
> ham163020. 0.7.htm 
> <http://www.instawares.com/officeone-business-gloss-paper.ham163020.0.7.htm>
> >
> > http://www.suitesup ply.com/hammermi ll.ham163020. 01.htm 
> <http://www.suitesupply.com/hammermill.ham163020.01.htm>
> >
> > http://www.cleanswe epsupply. com/pages/ skugroup38961. html 
> <http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/skugroup38961.html>
> >
> > The paper also shows up on the Office Depot website.
> >
> > At about 8 bucks for 300 sheets, if this stuff works, it's a real winner
> > for high-volume users.
> >
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston
> >
>
>

THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a run of bad 
traces......Still trying to find the right paper.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Buddy Brown" <buddybrown@...> 
wrote:

>
> Hi all,
> I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
> But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
> Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
> Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
> Works for TT much better with very much shorter
> Ironing times.
> I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
> To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
> Printers, that they can be made to work.
>

You might do a search on my user name, as I have made several posts on
the Brother HL-2040 problems over the past year and a half.  It simply
would not work well with Press n Peel Blue.  Teknics tech department
said the new printers use higher temp toners.  The lable on the inside
of the printer discharge chute has a caution regarding the 431 F parts
inside.

What I've finally settled on is catalog paper, specifically non-glossy
pages from the mailed version of the Harbor Freight catalog.  It's
thin, so I tape it to a sheet of printer paper. I have some board
examples, beginning with the first try, in the Ted-KX4OM folder in the
Photos section.

I preheat the iron to 330 degrees and then iron for 2 minutes using
moderate pressure, with the temperature still increasing.  I use a
paper towel between the iron and the paper/PCB; it evens out the heat
and it minimizes the problems with steam holes in the iron.

The digital thermometer is one for cooking meat.  I has a sharp-tipped
probe on the end of a cable, and a digital readout in C or F.  It cost
$15 from Harry's Market here in Atlanta, a large fresh foods/gourmet
place.

Thanks go out to Buddy for the tip on the Office Depot toner.

Cheers,
Ted
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:

>
> THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a run of bad 
> traces......Still trying to find the right paper.
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Buddy Brown" <buddybrown@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
> > But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
> > Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
> > Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
> > Works for TT much better with very much shorter
> > Ironing times.
> > I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
> > To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
> > Printers, that they can be made to work.
> >
>

Ted:

Thanks for the detailed procedure for using the Brother HL-2040 printer.
I'm sure that the quality of the toner in any printer is important in the
type of work we want to do.

I'm looking at several editions of the Harbor Freight catalog, and the paper
is indeed clay coated.  It appears to be about the same as the paper
Time magazine uses, i.e. thin and rather lightly clay coated.

I think that it might be more troublesome for printing houses to get 
consistant
results with non-clay coated paper when they print color photos, etc.
The extreme is represented by the fashion magazines that use a very thick,
heavily coated paper for high resolution color photos. 

Thanks for the information.

Roland F. Harriston
*********************


Ted Bruce KX4OM wrote:

>
> You might do a search on my user name, as I have made several posts on
> the Brother HL-2040 problems over the past year and a half. It simply
> would not work well with Press n Peel Blue. Teknics tech department
> said the new printers use higher temp toners. The lable on the inside
> of the printer discharge chute has a caution regarding the 431 F parts
> inside.
>
> What I've finally settled on is catalog paper, specifically non-glossy
> pages from the mailed version of the Harbor Freight catalog. It's
> thin, so I tape it to a sheet of printer paper. I have some board
> examples, beginning with the first try, in the Ted-KX4OM folder in the
> Photos section.
>
> I preheat the iron to 330 degrees and then iron for 2 minutes using
> moderate pressure, with the temperature still increasing. I use a
> paper towel between the iron and the paper/PCB; it evens out the heat
> and it minimizes the problems with steam holes in the iron.
>
> The digital thermometer is one for cooking meat. I has a sharp-tipped
> probe on the end of a cable, and a digital readout in C or F. It cost
> $15 from Harry's Market here in Atlanta, a large fresh foods/gourmet
> place.
>
> Thanks go out to Buddy for the tip on the Office Depot toner.
>
> Cheers,
> Ted
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:
> >
> > THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a run of bad
> > traces...... Still trying to find the right paper.
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Buddy Brown" <buddybrown@ >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I also have a Brother printer. It can be made to work,
> > > But, it takes a little more pressure and a lot more
> > > Ironing time, about 8 to 9 minutes. Also, the generic
> > > Toner refills from Office Depot for the Brother printers
> > > Works for TT much better with very much shorter
> > > Ironing times.
> > > I have also converted to an HP printer, but just wanted
> > > To let those of you that still need to use the Brother
> > > Printers, that they can be made to work.
> > >
> >
>
>

I tried the Peel-n-Press blue and you are correct, it will not work. I 
was thinking about the heat also, (too hot) fuses the toner 
deeper/harder into the paper and you confirmed it. 
Hum....now what. I can't go out and buy another printer....wife still 
mad at me for staining the kitchen sink with muriatic acid.
Thanks, Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Bruce KX4OM" 
<kilocycles@...> wrote:
>
> You might do a search on my user name, as I have made several posts on
> the Brother HL-2040 problems over the past year and a half.  It simply
> would not work well with Press n Peel Blue.  Teknics tech department
> said the new printers use higher temp toners.  The lable on the inside
> of the printer discharge chute has a caution regarding the 431 F parts
> inside. ****** SNIP ******
> >
> > THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a run of 
bad 
> > traces......Still trying to find the right paper.

Ted got me thinking about the heat. I tried using the 'Microwave 
oven' to preheat just the paper. First 20 seconds not soft enough, 30 
second, 100 percent of the traces were good. The real problem is the 
paper I'm using, Staples Photo Basic Gloss. I lost one trace just by 
rubbing too Hard. It adheres to the board and is a real pain to 
remove. Next I'll try heating the paper 45 seconds in the Microwave 
and see what happens......
Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:
>
> I tried the Peel-n-Press blue and you are correct, it will not 
work. I 
> was thinking about the heat also, (too hot) fuses the toner 
> deeper/harder into the paper and you confirmed it. 
> Hum....now what. I can't go out and buy another printer....wife 
still 
> mad at me for staining the kitchen sink with muriatic acid.
> Thanks, Izzo
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Bruce KX4OM" 
> <kilocycles@> wrote:
> >
> > You might do a search on my user name, as I have made several 
posts on
> > the Brother HL-2040 problems over the past year and a half.  It 
simply
> > would not work well with Press n Peel Blue.  Teknics tech 
department
> > said the new printers use higher temp toners.  The lable on the 
inside
> > of the printer discharge chute has a caution regarding the 431 F 
parts
> > inside. ****** SNIP ******
> > >
> > > THANKS! I have a Brother HL-2040. I made 5 boards ok, then a 
run of 

> bad 
> > > traces......Still trying to find the right paper.
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> Phil:
> Thanks for the additional information regarding Hammermill 163020.
> None of my local Office Max or Office Depot stores were able to order
> the paper because it did not "show up" on their computers.
> Office Depot indicated that the paper was only available via their
website.
> 
>


I didn't see it many other places either (any other actually).

FYI - when I did order it from Sam's, it was part of larger order but
the paper shipped seperate so obviously it's not in their wearhouse
(probably why it's not in their stores either). Clearly a drop ship.
Funny thing is the paper came next day, beating all the other stuff.
Sounds like maybe the same distributor as you found.

Good luck, the paper has been working great for me on HP Lasers. 8000
series at work with HP toner and a Laserjet 1200 at home with a
rebuild cartridge. My home printer with the rebuild actually does the
best but both are quite good.

- phil

Phil:

Thanks for the update.
I suspect that a lot of laser printer transfer problems originate with 
the characteristics of
the toner being used.

Not all toners are created equal.

Roland F. Harriston
******************

pgdion1 wrote:

>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Roland F. Harriston"
> <rolohar@... > wrote:
> >
> > Phil:
> > Thanks for the additional information regarding Hammermill 163020.
> > None of my local Office Max or Office Depot stores were able to order
> > the paper because it did not "show up" on their computers.
> > Office Depot indicated that the paper was only available via their
> website.
> >
> >
>
> I didn't see it many other places either (any other actually).
>

I ordered the paper online....https://www.officebella.com/
IT cost more to ship then the actual cost of the paper.
I also emailed Hammermill and to my surprise they are sending me a 
sample pack......
The list of Unavailability in stores: Staples, Best Buys, Circuit 
City, Office Depot, Office Max, and Sams Club(on line ONLY)
w/membership.
One quick question, Officebella also has those Staetdler Lumocolor 
permanent pens and read on other sites they are good to touch up bad 
traces and the come in very fine points...has anyone tried these 
pens or use them???
Thanks, Izzo

-- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "pgdion1" <pgdion1@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
> <rolohar@> wrote:
> >
> > Phil:
> > Thanks for the additional information regarding Hammermill 163020.
> > None of my local Office Max or Office Depot stores were able to 
order
> > the paper because it did not "show up" on their computers.
> > Office Depot indicated that the paper was only available via their
> website.
> > 
> >
> 
> 
> I didn't see it many other places either (any other actually).
> 
> FYI - when I did order it from Sam's, it was part of larger order 
but
> the paper shipped seperate so obviously it's not in their wearhouse
> (probably why it's not in their stores either). Clearly a drop ship.
> Funny thing is the paper came next day, beating all the other stuff.
> Sounds like maybe the same distributor as you found.
> 
> Good luck, the paper has been working great for me on HP Lasers. 
8000
> series at work with HP toner and a Laserjet 1200 at home with a
> rebuild cartridge. My home printer with the rebuild actually does 
the

> best but both are quite good.
> 
> - phil
>

Izzo47:

I  had the same dilemma. The cost of the paper was $8.48, and the UPS 
Ground shipping
and handling was $9.22.

But 300 sheets will last a long time since I do about 6 boards per year, 
sometimes less.
Satisfying my curiosity about how the Hammermill paper perform in our 
rather unique
application is worth the extra payout.

Roland F. Harriston
***********************




izzo47 wrote:

>
> I ordered the paper online....https: //www.officebell a.com/ 
> <online....https://www.officebella.com/>
> IT cost more to ship then the actual cost of the paper.
> I also emailed Hammermill and to my surprise they are sending me a
> sample pack......
> The list of Unavailability in stores: Staples, Best Buys, Circuit
> City, Office Depot, Office Max, and Sams Club(on line ONLY)
> w/membership.
> One quick question, Officebella also has those Staetdler Lumocolor
> permanent pens and read on other sites they are good to touch up bad
> traces and the come in very fine points...has anyone tried these
> pens or use them???
> Thanks, Izzo
>
> -- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "pgdion1" <pgdion1@... > wrote:
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Roland F. Harriston"
> > <rolohar@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Phil:
> > > Thanks for the additional information regarding Hammermill 163020.
> > > None of my local Office Max or Office Depot stores were able to
> order
> > > the paper because it did not "show up" on their computers.
> > > Office Depot indicated that the paper was only available via their
> > website.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > I didn't see it many other places either (any other actually).
> >
> > FYI - when I did order it from Sam's, it was part of larger order
> but
> > the paper shipped seperate so obviously it's not in their wearhouse
> > (probably why it's not in their stores either). Clearly a drop ship.
> > Funny thing is the paper came next day, beating all the other stuff.
> > Sounds like maybe the same distributor as you found.
> >
> > Good luck, the paper has been working great for me on HP Lasers.
> 8000
> > series at work with HP toner and a Laserjet 1200 at home with a
> > rebuild cartridge. My home printer with the rebuild actually does
> the
> > best but both are quite good.
> >
> > - phil
> >
>
>

YEP, curiosity killed the cat, but satisfaction brought him back to 
life again. Officebella.com $6.71 S/H $6.75....
Thanks for your reply
Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston" 
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> Izzo47:
> 
> I  had the same dilemma. The cost of the paper was $8.48, and the 
UPS 
> Ground shipping
> and handling was $9.22.
> 
> But 300 sheets will last a long time since I do about 6 boards per 
year, 
> sometimes less.
> Satisfying my curiosity about how the Hammermill paper perform in 
our 

> rather unique
> application is worth the extra payout.
> 
> Roland F. Harriston
> ***********************
> > izzo47 wrote:
> >
> > I ordered the paper online....https: //www.officebell a.com/ 
> > <online....https://www.officebella.com/>
> > IT cost more to ship then the actual cost of the paper.
> > SNIP <<

I also bought a Brother printer from Staples.  HL-2040 for about $80.
 I use Staples 'photo basic gloss' item# 471861.  I have been very
successful with this method.  I am still using the toner cartridge
that came with the printer.  There are a few VERY important steps to
make this work consistently.

First, you need to clean all oils off your PCB board before doing the
toner transfer.  The method I use which works very well is to first
put on vinyl gloves then using Comet, stealwool and water to scrub the
board thoroughly.  When all the oils are gone water will form a thin
sheet over the board.  Any oil spots will show up as they repel the water.

Second, I find it helps to rough up the surface a bit with some 150
grit sandpaper.  You must also rinse the board after sanding and you
should still be wearing the rubber gloves.  Once the board is taped to
the photo paper you can take off your gloves.

When it comes time to iron on the toner, push hard with the tip of the
iron and go over the whole board with little circles until you can see
the pattern show though the paper.

Also another tip.  I recommend doing a copper fill for the usual
reasons, but also fill about a 1/4 inch around the board.  The toner
on the edges of the board is most likely to peal away.  By adding this
1/4 inch barrier you will protect the outside traces.  The board can
be cut down later if necessary.

When it comes time to soak the board I can usually pull off almost all
the paper after about five minutes.  A thin layer of paper will
remain.  I then use a piece of the wet paper I removed to rub against
the board.  The wet paper is perfect for this as it is just the right
hardness to remove the paper but not damage the toner traces.  You can
scrub as hard as you want but be careful not to scratch the toner with
your finger nails.

Finally, I dry off the board and check under good lighting that none
of the paper's gum is still on the board especially in the small gaps.
 As the board dries any residual gum will turn whitish.  If there is
any more gum I go back to rubbing the wet paper over it and repeat the
drying and checking process.

All that is left is the etching.

Joseph

I have the same printer & use the same paper (going to try the 
Hammermill office one business gloss as soon as I have time). You may 
have forgotten to say to PRE-HEAT your board for 3-5 minutes. I was 
having problems but think I getting it now.
Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jcoffland" <homebrewPCB@...> 
wrote:
>
> I also bought a Brother printer from Staples.  HL-2040 for about 
$80.
>  I use Staples 'photo basic gloss' item# 471861.  I have been very
> successful with this method.  I am still using the toner cartridge
> that came with the printer.  There are a few VERY important steps to
> make this work consistently.
> 
> First, you need to clean all oils off your PCB board before doing 
the
> toner transfer.  The method I use which works very well is to first
> put on vinyl gloves then using Comet, stealwool and water to scrub 
the
> board thoroughly.  When all the oils are gone water will form a thin
> sheet over the board.  Any oil spots will show up as they repel the 
water.
> 
> Second, I find it helps to rough up the surface a bit with some 150
> grit sandpaper.  You must also rinse the board after sanding and you
> should still be wearing the rubber gloves.  Once the board is taped 
to
> the photo paper you can take off your gloves.
> 
> When it comes time to iron on the toner, push hard with the tip of 
the
> iron and go over the whole board with little circles until you can 
see
> the pattern show though the paper.
> 
> Also another tip.  I recommend doing a copper fill for the usual
> reasons, but also fill about a 1/4 inch around the board.  The toner
> on the edges of the board is most likely to peal away.  By adding 
this
> 1/4 inch barrier you will protect the outside traces.  The board can
> be cut down later if necessary.
> 
> When it comes time to soak the board I can usually pull off almost 
all
> the paper after about five minutes.  A thin layer of paper will
> remain.  I then use a piece of the wet paper I removed to rub 
against
> the board.  The wet paper is perfect for this as it is just the 
right
> hardness to remove the paper but not damage the toner traces.  You 
can
> scrub as hard as you want but be careful not to scratch the toner 
with
> your finger nails.
> 
> Finally, I dry off the board and check under good lighting that none
> of the paper's gum is still on the board especially in the small 
gaps.
>  As the board dries any residual gum will turn whitish.  If there is
> any more gum I go back to rubbing the wet paper over it and repeat 
the

> drying and checking process.
> 
> All that is left is the etching.
> 
> Joseph
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Bruce KX4OM"
<kilocycles@...> wrote:
>
.
> 
> I preheat the iron to 330 degrees and then iron for 2 minutes using
> moderate pressure, with the temperature still increasing.  I use a
> paper towel between the iron and the paper/PCB; it evens out the heat
> and it minimizes the problems with steam holes in the iron.
> 
> The digital thermometer is one for cooking meat.  I has a sharp-tipped
> probe on the end of a cable, and a digital readout in C or F.  It cost
> $15 from Harry's Market here in Atlanta, a large fresh foods/gourmet
> place.
> 
> Thanks go out to Buddy for the tip on the Office Depot toner.
> 
> Cheers,
> Ted

hi All
Ted mention above that he uses a meat thermometer to measure the
temperature.
I need to do same on a fuser roll, in order to determine the exact
correlation between roll temperature and thermistor sensor output. 
( I have not any kind of technical data for the fuser) 
MY QUESTION PLEASE:
does the meat temperature sensor need to have physical contact with 
the metal I am trying to measure the temperature , or it should be
some how maintained at a short distance of it.  ???
what should give the more real temperature readying ???

thanks in advance

juan