[Homebrew_PCBs] manual drill press
2003-05-20 by adam Seychell
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2003-05-20 by adam Seychell
2003-05-20 by Steve
> Hi Stephan and the group.http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html
> As I said earlier I would try and make up a web page
> describing some details of the drill press I built.
> Feel free to ask any question.
>
>
>Never a wise idea to use apostrophe's in a link. It works if I cut and
2003-05-20 by Stefan Trethan
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, adam Seychellthanks for the pictures. now it is much clearer how you operate it.
><adam_seychell@y...> wrote:
>> Hi Stephan and the group.
>> As I said earlier I would try and make up a web page
>> describing some details of the drill press I built.
>> Feel free to ask any question.
>>
>>
>http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html
>>
>
>Never a wise idea to use apostrophe's in a link. It works if I cut and
>paste, but my mailreader splits the link at that point.
>
>Here it is in TinyURL:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/c7fj
>
>Steve Greenfield
>
2003-05-20 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
> Hi Stephan and the group.MY virus-detector says "The attached file looks suspicious..." and the title
> As I said earlier I would try and make up a web page
> describing some details of the drill press I built.
> Feel free to ask any question.
>
> <A HREF="http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html">
>
>
> http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html</A>
>
2003-05-21 by Adam Seychell
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, adam SeychellYou are quite right. I was a bit late and I was doing things
> <adam_seychell@y...> wrote:
>
>>Hi Stephan and the group.
>>As I said earlier I would try and make up a web page
>>describing some details of the drill press I built.
>>Feel free to ask any question.
>>
>>
>
> http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html
>
>
> Never a wise idea to use apostrophe's in a link. It works if I cut and
> paste, but my mailreader splits the link at that point.
>
> Here it is in TinyURL:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/c7fj
>
> Steve Greenfield
>
2003-05-21 by Adam Seychell
> In a message dated 5/20/2003 7:41:34 AM Central Standard Time,I just scanned all 7 JPG files and none came up with any remnants
> adam_seychell@... writes:
>>
>>http://home.alphalink.com.au/~seychell/Drill_Press/Adam's_PCB_drill_press.html</A>
>>
>
> MY virus-detector says "The attached file looks suspicious..." and the title
> of the attachment is something like "payback.com" or whatever. It looks to
> ME like there is some evil trash unwittingly stuck onto Adam's photo file! I
> have NO clue what to suggest to avoid this, as the PHOTO downloaded fine, but
> I did NOT go on to load the attachment, once I saw the title, warning, and
> that the drill-photo seemed OK.
>
> Jan Rowland
>
2003-05-21 by Adam Seychell
> 20.05.2003 16:00:06, "Steve" <alienrelics@...> wrote:The small drill presses I've seen for a few hundred dollars have
>
>
> thanks for the pictures. now it is much clearer how you operate it.
>
> @steve:
> in my browser the apostrophe was no problem.
> but tinyurl takes a lot time to redirect. ;-)
>
> @markus:
> ok, i will regard this request.
> i didn't think about it a lot.
> normally i answer all emails on top.
>
> i find it a little strange to have to scroll down and search the whole email for the reply (which is in
> between and not at the bottom because of all of the sponsor advertising etc..
>
> but i understand with mailgroups it is then easyer to read old postings because the text is in the right
> order. anyways i personally find it more comfortable to write/read the latest thing on top of a mail.
> (the lower part only being for reference if anyone is not familiar with it).
>
> but of course i will join the majority and from now on write on the bottom.
>
>
>
> i have tested the drill i wanted to put on the new press.
> it is scrap.
> the carbide bits will never withstand this.
> it is out of center....
>
>
> i will go to the tool shop tomorrow, see their minidrill products.
> the proxxon drill presses are very nice (and ready made) but also much more expensive than the hand
> tools and making the press your own.
> i also have a second (dremel-like) minidrill at home which is much better centered..
> i will maybe use this after closer inspection.
>
2003-05-21 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com (file name "payback.com") then whyIt apparently was from another group I belong to, and attached itself to ALL
> has no one else on this group received this attachemnt, including
> myself ?
>
2003-05-21 by Stefan Trethan
>in
>
>Stefan Trethan wrote:
>> 20.05.2003 16:00:06, "Steve" <alienrelics@...> wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> thanks for the pictures. now it is much clearer how you operate it.
>>
>> @steve:
>> in my browser the apostrophe was no problem.
>> but tinyurl takes a lot time to redirect. ;-)
>>
>> @markus:
>> ok, i will regard this request.
>> i didn't think about it a lot.
>> normally i answer all emails on top.
>>
>> i find it a little strange to have to scroll down and search the whole email for the reply (which is
>> between and not at the bottom because of all of the sponsor advertising etc..right
>>
>> but i understand with mailgroups it is then easyer to read old postings because the text is in the
>> order. anyways i personally find it more comfortable to write/read the latest thing on top of a mail.interesting idea!
>> (the lower part only being for reference if anyone is not familiar with it).
>>
>> but of course i will join the majority and from now on write on the bottom.
>>
>>
>>
>> i have tested the drill i wanted to put on the new press.
>> it is scrap.
>> the carbide bits will never withstand this.
>> it is out of center....
>>
>>
>> i will go to the tool shop tomorrow, see their minidrill products.
>> the proxxon drill presses are very nice (and ready made) but also much more expensive than the hand
>> tools and making the press your own.
>> i also have a second (dremel-like) minidrill at home which is much better centered..
>> i will maybe use this after closer inspection.
>>
>
>
>The small drill presses I've seen for a few hundred dollars have
>not been very stable compared to the thing I made. As I said, its
>a first design and there are much better ways do go about
>building a pivoting type drill press. I haven't seen a proxxon
>drill spindle but from the web page you gave they look better
>made than a Dremal. You have to check roundout.
>
>The arc radius can be made smaller than 680 mm as I have done.
>I'd say a radius of 400 mm would be ok for drilling few mm deep.
>
>A bit of math's shows the amount the drill moves out of position
>due to the arc is equal to r - sqrt(r^2 - h^2)
>Where r is arc radius and h is the depth the drill enters the
>PCB. So if r = 400 and h = 5 you get 0.031 mm or 1.2 mils.
>
>I'm sure carbide drill bits can survive 0.03mm of movement.
>
>A simpler approach for a pivot is to use two "rod end" bearings
>at the rear of the base. A 16 mm piece of threaded bar can be
>bent into a V or U shape to make up the main arm. Each end of the
>threaded bar is screwed to a female rod end bearing. Two vertical
>posts made from 16 mm bolts are mounted at the rear of the base.
>The opening of each rod end bearing go on these posts, and
>tightened up with nuts on either side. The advantage of using rod
>ends is they do not have to be aligned and you get perfect stable
>rotation along the axis between the two centers of each rod end
>sphere. You can also adjust the height of each rod end which
>allows easy alignment of the drill in that axis.
>
> |---------------------|
> | O O <-|-- 16 mm threaded posts
> | \\ // <-|-- 16 mm female rod ends
> | \ / |
> | \ / <----|-- 16 mm threaded bar
> | \ / |
> | \____/ |
> | |/ \| |
> | |\__/| <-----|-- drill spindle
> | ---- | mounted to bar
> | |
> | |
> | |<- machine base
> |---------------------|
>
>
>For drawings of rod ends see http://www.skf.com
>Rod ends are relativly cheap and should be available from any
>bearing supplier.
>
>
>Adam
>
2003-05-21 by Markus Zingg
>the problem: i have no suitable drilling machine found at the tool shop i was today.Maybe it pay's off to call proxxon at their headquarter and ask for
>they only have dremel and "minitool", each not good quality (dremel has aluminium collars).
>
>they don't have the proxxon tools which i think is better.
>
>i can buy the proxxon drill at a mail order company but so i can't get my hands on it prior to buying to
>inspect it closely.
2003-05-21 by Marty Grove
2003-05-21 by Stefan Trethan
2003-05-21 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Grove" <MartyGrove@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 12:56 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Quick introduction and question
> Hello to everyone.
>
>
>
> My name is Marty Grove, and I have been around the printed circuit board
> manufacturing business for quite a few years. I found this group a few
> weeks ago when searching Yahoo groups for "printed circuit board". I have
> been lurking ever since, and I'm fascinated at what several of you are
> accomplishing!
>
>
>
> Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuit
> boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them
> (kind of like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply a
hobby.
> to see it's possible to make quality boards using homebrew techniques?
I'm
> simply curious about this.
>
Mine are mostly for experimenting with interesting chips. I also sell a few
from time to time. I also made the odd PCB for use where I worked
previously - easier and quicker than getting prototypes made.
Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon_heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
2003-05-21 by Markus Zingg
>Hello to everyone.Marty,
>
>
>
>My name is Marty Grove, and I have been around the printed circuit board
>manufacturing business for quite a few years. I found this group a few
>weeks ago when searching Yahoo groups for "printed circuit board". I have
>been lurking ever since, and I'm fascinated at what several of you are
>accomplishing!
>
>
>
>Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuit
>boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them
>(kind of like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply a hobby.
>to see it's possible to make quality boards using homebrew techniques? I'm
>simply curious about this.
>
>
>
>Anyway, all the best. Hope you all don't mind if I sit back and watch all
>of your progress. I might jump in from time to time to ask additional
>questions, and who knows. I might start making some boards of my own out in
>the garage!
>
>
>
>Marty
2003-05-21 by Chris Graham
2003-05-21 by Peter Welty
2003-05-21 by Francisco Peña
----- Original Message -----
From: Marty Grove
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2003 5:56 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Quick introduction and question
Hello to everyone.
My name is Marty Grove, and I have been around the printed circuit board
manufacturing business for quite a few years. I found this group a few
weeks ago when searching Yahoo groups for "printed circuit board". I have
been lurking ever since, and I'm fascinated at what several of you are
accomplishing!
Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuit
boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them
(kind of like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply a hobby.
to see it's possible to make quality boards using homebrew techniques? I'm
simply curious about this.
Anyway, all the best. Hope you all don't mind if I sit back and watch all
of your progress. I might jump in from time to time to ask additional
questions, and who knows. I might start making some boards of my own out in
the garage!
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2003-05-21 by grantfair2001
> Hello to everyone.a hobby.
>
>
> My name is Marty Grove, and I have been around the printed circuit board
> manufacturing business for quite a few years. [snip]
>
> Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuit
> boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them
> (kind of like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply
> to see it's possible to make quality boards using homebrewtechniques? I'm
> simply curious about this.[snip]
>
> Marty
2003-05-21 by Stefan Trethan
>Hello to everyone.hi
>
>
>
>My name is Marty Grove, and I have been around the printed circuit board
>manufacturing business for quite a few years. I found this group a few
>weeks ago when searching Yahoo groups for "printed circuit board". I have
>been lurking ever since, and I'm fascinated at what several of you are
>accomplishing!
>
>
>
>Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuit
>boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them
>(kind of like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply a hobby.
>to see it's possible to make quality boards using homebrew techniques? I'm
>simply curious about this.
>
>
>
>Anyway, all the best. Hope you all don't mind if I sit back and watch all
>of your progress. I might jump in from time to time to ask additional
>questions, and who knows. I might start making some boards of my own out in
>the garage!
>
>
>
>Marty
>
>
2003-05-21 by Dave King
>At this stage this is just a hobby for me. I hope to eventually beGrant
>able to do some small production runs of things of interest to other
>hobbyists. If eventually this becomes a (small) money making venture,
>fine, but if not, I am enjoying the learning/hobby aspects. So far I
>am making single sided boards with laser printed Dyna-Art paper, but
>hope to work up to double sided. I also hope to try some silk
>screening with some (cleaned and reused) ancient silk screens a former
>board maker donated to me. I have no deadlines, and work at it as
>time, interest and energy allow.
>
>Grant
2003-05-21 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
> Anyway, one question I do have is: what are you doing with the circuitMarty:
> boards you are building? Are they for private use, are you selling them (kind of
> like a small-scale quick-turn business), or is this simply a hobby to see
> it's possible to make quality boards using homebrew techniques? I'm simply
> curious about this.
>
2003-05-22 by Adam Seychell
> interesting idea!You can buy them from bearing suppliers. When I was looking at
> but i don't think i have rod end bearings at home.
> do you think there is no clearance in rod end bearings whenRod ends are just a plain spherical bearing inside a housing
> they are new for horizontal movement?
>
> i can buy the proxxon drill at a mail order company but so ican't get my hands on it prior to buying to
> inspect it closely.Its difficult to know the quality without looking at one and
>
>suitable drill.
> as you see i won't start building before i don't have a
>yes, I would do the same. The mount for the dill may not be easy
2003-05-22 by Neil
> Stefan Trethan wrote:
> > interesting idea!
> > but i don't think i have rod end bearings at home.
>
> You can buy them from bearing suppliers. When I was looking at
> using rod ends for this project a few years ago I remember them
> being not expensive. I will one day redo my drill machine so its
> more compact and lighter.
>
> > do you think there is no clearance in rod end bearings when
> >
> > they are new for horizontal movement?
>
> Rod ends are just a plain spherical bearing inside a housing
> designed go on the end of a rod, I wouldn't expect any noticeable
> play. I haven't seen them myself, but I've been told there isn't
> any play you can feel.
>
> here is a picture.
> http://www.qbcbearings.com/RFQ/B610HTML/B610P161.html
>
> > i can buy the proxxon drill at a mail order company but so i
>
> can't get my hands on it prior to buying to
>
> > inspect it closely.
>
> Its difficult to know the quality without looking at one and
> testing it. Maybe you can contact proxxon and find out more
> detailed specifications of the drill.
>
> > as you see i won't start building before i don't have a
>
> suitable drill.
>
>
> yes, I would do the same. The mount for the dill may not be easy
> to make without the right tools.
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses]
2003-05-22 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
2003-05-31 by John Myszkowski
> Hello to everyone.
>
> It's done! For those interested, here's the link showing the first
> pictures of my homebrew through plating station.
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> The station is not ready to be filled with the chemicals etc. after
> which the frist test can be made.
>
> Markus
2003-05-31 by adam Seychell
> HI Markus,I agree, he has put quite some effort into the apparatus.
>
> That looks like a very impressive setup.
> What will happen if a joint leaks at night (or day) and chemicalsImagine conductive salt soluions (especially the sulfuric
> leak out into the electronics?
2003-05-31 by Hans Wedemeyer
> Hello to everyone.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> It's done! For those interested, here's the link showing the first
> pictures of my homebrew through plating station.
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> The station is not ready to be filled with the chemicals etc. after
> which the frist test can be made.
>
> Markus
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>
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>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>HI Markus,Thanks for the flowers.
>
>That looks like a very impressive setup.
>Very neat.
>Will you share the details with us, so that we can do the same?Yes of course. I meanwhile created a better page. It was 3:30 am when
>How did you join the plastic compartments?compartments? You mean the tanks? If so, they are actually made of so
>What will happen if a joint leaks at night (or day) and chemicalsThe main plastic box is acid save. It's big enough so as THREE tanks
>leak out into the electronics?
>How do you initiate the plating onto the non conductive pcb surfaceI use mostly redy made chemicals from a german company called bungard.
>(hole walls)?
>John M...
>======================
>
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@n...>
>wrote:
>> Hello to everyone.
>>
>> It's done! For those interested, here's the link showing the first
>> pictures of my homebrew through plating station.
>>
>> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> The station is not ready to be filled with the chemicals etc. after
>> which the frist test can be made.
>>
>> Markus
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>I figure I could change the setup so as all of the anodes would be
>
>John Myszkowski wrote:
>> HI Markus,
>>
>> That looks like a very impressive setup.
>
>I agree, he has put quite some effort into the apparatus.
>However I really think he shouldn't of tried building the
>entire thing in one step, unless he had lots of experienced
>with the process and is familiar with copper plating tank
>design. For example it looks like he plans not to fully
>suberge the copper anodes and will inevidably get large
>amounts of oxidation at the air liquid interface.
> He alsoI of course do not intend to spill a drop. I may will however cover
>has some mild steel and brass around that area. Unless he
>will NEVER spill a drop of solution, this will corrode and
>ultimatly contaminate his bath will iron(II).
> As for theThis part is easier cause I'm using ready made mixtures of these baths
>other tanks which I assume are for the electroless copper
>stages, I don't have any experience with so thats a whole
>different set of challenges he must deal with.
>> What will happen if a joint leaks at night (or day) and chemicalsThis should not happen. That said, three tanks can leak at the same
>> leak out into the electronics?
>
>Imagine conductive salt soluions (especially the sulfuric
>acid copper plating at 4.8 ohm-cm at 20°C) shorting the
>transformer and blowing the fuse, which I sure hope he has
>installed one.
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>Markus,I'm considering turning the frame the other way round so as the
>Look good, however the acid fumes will attack you electronics ! I'd say
>keep the electronics away from the acid by at least 3-4 feet...
>How do you plan to activate the holes ?As elsewhere mentioned, I'm using ready made mixtures from Bungard
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>Imagine conductive salt soluions (especially the sulfuricAdam, I forgot to say that yes , there is of course a fuse. You can
>acid copper plating at 4.8 ohm-cm at 20°C) shorting the
>transformer and blowing the fuse, which I sure hope he has
>installed one.
2003-05-31 by Hans Wedemeyer
> Hi Hans[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> >Markus,
> >Look good, however the acid fumes will attack you electronics ! I'd
> say
> >keep the electronics away from the acid by at least 3-4 feet...
>
> I'm considering turning the frame the other way round so as the
> electrolytic tank is on the oposit end of the box. However I'm not
> sure if it can be seen on the pictures propperly. The electronics of
> course is in it's own housing. Well, there is the border between the
> tank and the pannel cover I'm going to seal. If I do so I think fumes
> will not so easily get there but then you are the experts. I really do
>
> not have any experience yet, but as you can see I'm more than willing
> to change this :-)
>
> >How do you plan to activate the holes ?
>
> As elsewhere mentioned, I'm using ready made mixtures from Bungard
> electronics. A friend of mine is having a hobbyist kind of station
> that is having four baths only and he get's VERY good results. He
> actually motivated me of building my own station and apart of all the
> critics (which I apreciate of course) I have the impression that my
> station is still much better than the one he uses.
>
> Markus
>
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>Markus,I was thinking about this, but then the unit my friend uses also is
>Sorry I got into this thread late.
>If you are using acid in the bath, I'd say keep the electronics
>completely away from the box. It can get messy.
>I'm interested to see the unit in working mode.Me too :-) Please allow some more time. I just put the pages online
>What are the covers or "bags" made of ?Are you asking about the anode bags? The anodes as well as the bags
>Can you post a link to Bungard electronics please ?http://www.bungard.de/home.htm
>Where can I get complete details of this device ?Currently the page is what's published. Note, I finished the device 11
>Thanks.
>Hans Wedemeyer
>
>
>Markus Zingg wrote:
>
>> Hi Hans
>>
>> >Markus,
>> >Look good, however the acid fumes will attack you electronics ! I'd
>> say
>> >keep the electronics away from the acid by at least 3-4 feet...
>>
>> I'm considering turning the frame the other way round so as the
>> electrolytic tank is on the oposit end of the box. However I'm not
>> sure if it can be seen on the pictures propperly. The electronics of
>> course is in it's own housing. Well, there is the border between the
>> tank and the pannel cover I'm going to seal. If I do so I think fumes
>> will not so easily get there but then you are the experts. I really do
>>
>> not have any experience yet, but as you can see I'm more than willing
>> to change this :-)
>>
>> >How do you plan to activate the holes ?
>>
>> As elsewhere mentioned, I'm using ready made mixtures from Bungard
>> electronics. A friend of mine is having a hobbyist kind of station
>> that is having four baths only and he get's VERY good results. He
>> actually motivated me of building my own station and apart of all the
>> critics (which I apreciate of course) I have the impression that my
>> station is still much better than the one he uses.
>>
>> Markus
>>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
2003-05-31 by adam Seychell
> Hi AdamI can give tips on the acid copper plating since I have a
>
> First off - let me thank you for the critical feedback. I am in fact
> not experineced and therefore thankfull for any information.
> I figure I could change the setup so as all of the anodes would beThe corrosion is due to a electrochemical reaction happening
> floded. However, I don't understand how I should avoid that copper is
> not covered by the acid on one hand, but not having any other material
> reach the acid on the other hand.
>Stainless is good around sulfuric acid, but do not have it
> I of course do not intend to spill a drop. I may will however cover
> the steel with a plastic film or else change to stainless steel or
> such.
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>Well, I will soon be able to tell wether mine works or not :-)
>
>Markus Zingg wrote:
>> Hi Adam
>>
>> First off - let me thank you for the critical feedback. I am in fact
>> not experineced and therefore thankfull for any information.
>
>I can give tips on the acid copper plating since I have a
>bit of experience with this. I have been doing small amounts
>of copper plating for about 2 years now. I've been through
>about 3 major tanks revisions before I had something working.
>> I figure I could change the setup so as all of the anodes would beThanks for the hints. I will consider them, but think it's best if I
>> floded. However, I don't understand how I should avoid that copper is
>> not covered by the acid on one hand, but not having any other material
>> reach the acid on the other hand.
>
>The corrosion is due to a electrochemical reaction happening
>at the air/liquid interface. Its slow, and may take a year
>for the copper you have to completely corrode away.
>
>You hang the anode plates by pieces of PVC insulated solid
>copper wire. The wire can be attached by solder and then
>sealed with glue. The glues I've had most success with are
>PVC solvent cement or polyurethane sealant. Epoxy can lift
>over time.
>Alternatively you can drill small holes into the copper
>plates a bit larger diameter of the solid wire and use a
>center punch and hammer to crimp around the wire.
>Commercial platers use titanum mesh baskets and simply
>fill them with copper nugets. Or they might use titanium
>clamps on solid copper bars.
>> I of course do not intend to spill a drop. I may will however coverAs you can see on my pages, the machine is very easy to disasemble /
>> the steel with a plastic film or else change to stainless steel or
>> such.
>
>Stainless is good around sulfuric acid, but do not have it
>permanently immersed. Stainless corrodes slowly when
>immersed, but is very resistant to splashes and being wet by
>the acid. It has something to do with the dissolved oxygen
>from the air maintaining the surface passivation.
>
>Every plating tank I've seen, including mine, will over time
> become surrounded by dried salts and plating chemicals
>because its very hard to completely avoid splashes and drips.
>You should be agitating the plating solution by air bubblesMy setup includes motorized PCB motion. Thers an excenter wheel that
>or motorized PCB motion. A still solution will be limited to
>very slow plating rates due to limited copper ion diffusion
>at the surface of the PCB. An attempt to plate at normal
>current density (1 ~ 2 A/dm^2) in still solution will only
>give you rough, and "burned" deposts. Air bubbles are simple
>to setup but create fine splashes of copper electrolyte
>solution. These splashes must be stopped by some type of lid.
>Happy plating.Thank you - I will start to do some experiments now and post the
2003-05-31 by Hans Wedemeyer
> Dear Hans[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please read below.
>
> >Markus,
> >Sorry I got into this thread late.
> >If you are using acid in the bath, I'd say keep the electronics
> >completely away from the box. It can get messy.
>
> I was thinking about this, but then the unit my friend uses also is
> having the electronics inside - no problems yet. Well, I will change
> it as soon as I see the first problems.
>
> >I'm interested to see the unit in working mode.
>
> Me too :-) Please allow some more time. I just put the pages online
> and creating them - even if they were simple - also took some time.
>
> >What are the covers or "bags" made of ?
>
> Are you asking about the anode bags? The anodes as well as the bags
> surrounding them can be bought at Bungard. They were not that
> expensive. The way it looks it's some sort of glass fiber epoxy kind
> of tissue.
>
> >Can you post a link to Bungard electronics please ?
>
> http://www.bungard.de/home.htm
>
> >Where can I get complete details of this device ?
>
> Currently the page is what's published. Note, I finished the device 11
>
> hours ago. No wonder there is not yet much documentation available :-)
>
> Feel free to ask whatever you want to know and in case you get the
> impressio that you would start to distub the list feel also free to
> e-mail me directly.
>
> Markus
>
> >Thanks.
> >Hans Wedemeyer
> >
> >
> >Markus Zingg wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Hans
> >>
> >> >Markus,
> >> >Look good, however the acid fumes will attack you electronics !
> I'd
> >> say
> >> >keep the electronics away from the acid by at least 3-4 feet...
> >>
> >> I'm considering turning the frame the other way round so as the
> >> electrolytic tank is on the oposit end of the box. However I'm not
> >> sure if it can be seen on the pictures propperly. The electronics
> of
> >> course is in it's own housing. Well, there is the border between
> the
> >> tank and the pannel cover I'm going to seal. If I do so I think
> fumes
> >> will not so easily get there but then you are the experts. I really
> do
> >>
> >> not have any experience yet, but as you can see I'm more than
> willing
> >> to change this :-)
> >>
> >> >How do you plan to activate the holes ?
> >>
> >> As elsewhere mentioned, I'm using ready made mixtures from Bungard
> >> electronics. A friend of mine is having a hobbyist kind of station
> >> that is having four baths only and he get's VERY good results. He
> >> actually motivated me of building my own station and apart of all
> the
> >> critics (which I apreciate of course) I have the impression that my
>
> >> station is still much better than the one he uses.
> >>
> >> Markus
> >>
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
> files:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
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2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>Markus,Yes, the excenter wheel which you can best see in the "close up"
>Thanks for the link.
>Did you download the video from Bungard ? It show the PCB moving in the
>plating bath ! Do you have that feature ?
>The site is German and I can't read German. When you finish your webWill try to do so. However, at the enty page, there is this british
>site, could you please post some Part numbers for the item needed from
>Bungard ...
>BTW Keep the stuff coming here at this forum, it is VERY MUCH onErrr - there IS a page for it. The link I gave meanwhile mutated into
>topic... Good work.
>
>I don't know... 11 hours since it was built and no web page yet !...
>Have you been sleeping again .... :-) Thanks I'll wait.
>Best regardsHuston - nice place. Was there two years ago. I'd love to return.
>Hans Wedemeyer
>Houston Texas U.S.A
2003-05-31 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>nice station.Thank you. I'm in the process of doing some small changes and hope to
>i have the following question:Yes, you are right. I considered adding a rinse tank but then decided
>
>i don't know much about through hole plating but don't you have to rinse the
>board after each chemical?
>i wonder how you do this in this unit, do you have water compartments
>between the process chemicals (or at least one?)
>how do you change the water, how is it disposal handeled? (is the amount
>small enough to put it into the sink?)
>the only pcb "station" i saw was a small unit of bungard, but only used forThe station I looked at is called "compacta 30". Again, this unit
>etching. it has nice flushing compartments which had small water jets on the
>sides... it kept the water fresh by using fresh water at the jets and
>disposing off excess.
>i think the bags for your electrodes are of the standard woven glass fiberThat very well might be. I did not cared too much cause the bags come
>material used for fiberglass parts (like making wings for smaller aeroplane
>etc.)
>i can't tell if it is one layer or more but i really think it is this stuff
>from the pictures.
>one can get this from supplies for making fiber reinforced plastics (planes,Maybe. However, anodes used shold have some percentage of phosphor in
>repair of car hull) but also as "fire extinguisher blanked" (is used in
>kitchen if fat burns). this is often quite a good quality and maybe easier and
>cheaper to get than the stuff used with epoxy.
>
>maybe this is of interest for the ones wanting to make such a unit.
>((what does bungard charge for the bags?))The bags are not on the pricelist I have. The anodes WITH the bags are
2003-05-31 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
2003-05-31 by Markus Zingg
>well, thanks for the information about rinsing etc.Hmm, I don't really agree on this one. If the load is good for 4 years
>
>i would like to have one too, but really don't need.
>also the bungard "starter" chemicals pack is far too expensive for me.
>(i could have them done outdoors too then for this costs)
>i really look forward to hearing of your first results (and pictures!).Yep, I also have to rearange my office here a bit so as the station
>but you should get everything done PERFECTLY before filling.
>i tend to try things before they are ready (remember how i killed the one:-) well, no risk no fun right?
>inkjet printer?).
>leaving myself afterwards with a lot more work.
>but on the other hand i also don't believe your station will be perfectWhat should I say? I better focus on get it done now and present first
>initially.
>try to give it some test runs, with water, but actually heating, pcb in,That's what I did yesterday. So far these tests were sucessfull with
>timing, etc...
>also look out for spills with this runs, and get used to handling.
>if you have the possibility to make less sophisticated pcbs (without throughNot needed. The chemicals, baths setup etc. is well tested by my
>hole plating) maybe it's also a option for you to fill your station
>gradually, testing stage by stage....
>i also want to ask you if it is possible for you to give a brief descriptionYes, the gun is from "Steinel". That should be available where you
>of the plastic welding you used.
>i never did this myself but am very interested.
>you use a temperature controlled hot air gun?
>which nozzle diameter do you use, which temperature?The hobby glass should be processed at 400 degrees celsius. The
>i think the hobby glas is available here also, what did you pay?That's the bad part of the story. I bought it at "Hornbach" - which
>how sturdy is the plastic, if you have a sheet a4 size and hold it along oneIt bends completely. You can see an example of this if you look at
>side how much does it bend?
>would be very nice, thanks.
>have a good night..You too :-)
2003-06-01 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
2003-06-01 by Markus Zingg
>thanks for all the information.That's strange. You really should try to find a better store then :-)
>
>i wantet to get that steinel gun with the display some time ago.
>but the didn't have it.. they only had the newer model, it has only 4 or 5
>led to indicate the temperature.
>i may try it somewhere else next time...Steinel is havine a homepage. You find the product along with the
>
>thanks again for all the information about plastic welding. i didn't see
>this welding nozzle at the shop where i looked for the gun. maybe it would too
>work with the normal straight nozzle?
>or maybe i can make it of copper sheeting?
>
>a photo of the nozzle would be very nice but isn't urgent at all... maybe
>when you photograph your results?
>
>also please tell me the type number of your hot air gun, steinel has 4 digit
>numbers i think, like 2020...
2003-06-01 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
2003-06-02 by Markus Zingg
2003-06-02 by twb8899
> Hi folksmovie
>
> I'm still testing with water - the voltage regulator still get's too
> hot with low PCB motion speeds. Anyways, I created a little MPEG
> of the station in action for those interested. You find it on theasked
> bottom of the entry page.
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> It's farily late now here again. I was busy all day with cleaning up
> my office to make room for the station et all. Then we also had
> guests. I studied the docs of the chemicals I got and - some one
> this - found info about the material the bag's around the anodesMarkus,
> consist of. They are made of a polyprophylene tissue.
2003-06-02 by John Myszkowski
2003-06-02 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
> Hi folks--
>
> I'm still testing with water - the voltage regulator still get's too
> hot with low PCB motion speeds. Anyways, I created a little MPEG movie
> of the station in action for those interested. You find it on the
> bottom of the entry page.
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> It's farily late now here again. I was busy all day with cleaning up
> my office to make room for the station et all. Then we also had
> guests. I studied the docs of the chemicals I got and - some one asked
> this - found info about the material the bag's around the anodes
> consist of. They are made of a polyprophylene tissue.
>
> Markus
>
>
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>
>
2003-06-03 by Markus Zingg
2003-06-04 by Markus Zingg
2003-06-04 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
> Hi Adam,--
>
> After some testing, it turned out that you were absolutely right. Not
> that I really would have doubht it - It came even worse in that the
> anode bags - which were wicked around the iron on top of the anodes
> soaked up the solution. As a result the iron started to corrode....
>
> I meanwhile have followed your sugestions. That is I made it slightly
> different in that I drilled four threads into the anodes from top, and
> screwd four solid copper wires into them. On top I also replaced the
> iron with plastic bars. The wires are now PVC insulated and I used
> glue to isolate the coper wire / anode interface.
>
> You can see pictures of the changes here
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> click on "updates to the station"
>
> While I think it's now done the way you meant, I still really
> apreciate your feedback!
>
> There is another probelm left open with the powersupply. It turns out
> that the lamp regulator I use does not start up immediately and as a
> result the transformer first outputs about 3V. There are ~40 Amps when
> plating starts, and trying to regulate it down leads to the effect
> that I can only go down to 10 Amps at about 0.6 V. Below current stops
> flowing immediately. I'm now considering adding diodes in row to the
> cathode line to have the transformer operate at a higher voltage...
>
> I first hoped that the fact that now that the anodes are floated
> completely this would change but it did not.
>
> How did you do your power supply?
>
> Markus
>
>
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>
>
2003-06-07 by Markus Zingg
2003-06-07 by adam Seychell
> Hi folks!
>
> I'm a happy man! See the pictures of the first sucessfully through
> hole plated PCB on the page!
>
2003-06-07 by Hans Wedemeyer
> Hi folks![Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> I'm a happy man! See the pictures of the first sucessfully through
> hole plated PCB on the page!
>
> http://www.myhome.ch/mzingg/pcbstuff/tps/
>
> Click on "updates to the station", then scroll to the bottom.
>
> Note! The "black" areas are not at all black. These are just
> reflections of the light in my office. It's VERY hard to make a good
> picture of such a shiny object like a freshly through plated PCB! The
> scratches you see on one side are also not related to the through hole
>
> process. They were in the print before the process. (That is I made
> them after drilling the holes to get rid of the material that was
> arond the borders of the holes).
>
> The success came by adding two power diodes in series to the cathode
> line thereby rasing the voltage by ~3V. This has something to do with
> the triac dimmer I'm using. As a consequence I will - insted of using
> a ready built one - build my own. I intend to make the station as easy
>
> to copy as possible. I now start to document the station so as those
> intrested in building their own don't have to go through such a lot of
>
> difficulties as I had. That said I will add two new sections to the
> menue. First one will be "Chemistry" where I will list in detail what
> I know about the chemistry I use. The second section will be
> instructions, picutres, dimensions, bill of material etc. so as one
> can build his own station.
>
> Markus
>
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2003-06-07 by Hans Wedemeyer
2003-06-07 by Markus Zingg
>Very rewarding work. Are the boards through hole plated orYes, they are through hole plated. :-)
>just plated on the outside ? I only ask because I wasn't
>sure if you have the electroless up and running.
> From what i've gathered, electroless copper processing isMr. D. Bungard - is very helpfull. He is reachable on the phone and
>by far the most troublesome. If you get that understood,
>then everything else is a little easier. Since you are
>paying good money for these chemicals, then you should
>expect good support from the suppliers.
>Will your process use panel plating method for producingI'm not sure about the names of the different methods, so let me
>through hole PCBs ? If so what photoresist will you be using
>to seal the holes from the copper etchant ? Normally they
>are "tented" across with dry film negative resist.
>Adam
>
>Markus Zingg wrote:
>> Hi folks!
>>
>> I'm a happy man! See the pictures of the first sucessfully through
>> hole plated PCB on the page!
2003-06-07 by adam Seychell
>You do not mention an electroless copper bath ! If this is
> As you can see I have 5 bath's.
>
> 1 - A cleaning solution (7 minutes) followed by static and spray rinse
> 2 - so called "pre dip" (1 minute) NO RINSE after this step
> 3 - activation (7 minutes, this is the most expensive one - it
> contains paladium) followed by static and spray rinse
> 4 - intensifier (4 minutes). This bath should transport the paladium
> that happen to stay on the copper sides into the holes also thereby
> avoiding an other wise needed cleaning step of the pcb. Still, static
> and spray rinse is requiered
> 5 - the electrolytic bath (24 minutes) followed by static and spray
> rinse.
>What type of photoresist are you using, liquid or dry film ?,
> This will produce plates that have 35 u of copper if you start with
> copper plates that have 18u alreay. After this a photoresist is
> laminated on the board. The negative mask is made in a way so as the
> holes are not there, that said, the hole areas do get light during the
> exposion and hence they will not be etched. The developement of the
> photoresist is made with soda. After the etching of the board the
> remaining parts of the photoresist is once more "developped" with
> natriumhydroxid solution.
>
2003-06-07 by Markus Zingg
>Markus Zingg wrote:You are right, I am using palladium activation. The palladium is 200
>>
>> As you can see I have 5 bath's.
>>
>> 1 - A cleaning solution (7 minutes) followed by static and spray rinse
>> 2 - so called "pre dip" (1 minute) NO RINSE after this step
>> 3 - activation (7 minutes, this is the most expensive one - it
>> contains paladium) followed by static and spray rinse
>> 4 - intensifier (4 minutes). This bath should transport the paladium
>> that happen to stay on the copper sides into the holes also thereby
>> avoiding an other wise needed cleaning step of the pcb. Still, static
>> and spray rinse is requiered
>> 5 - the electrolytic bath (24 minutes) followed by static and spray
>> rinse.
>
>You do not mention an electroless copper bath ! If this is
>so then your process uses palladium activation , not
>electroless. Electroless copper involves one additional bath
>containing copper sulfate, formaldehyde plus other
>chemicals. This final bath deposits copper onto all surfaces
>without electricity. After the board is covered with a thin
>layer of copper (usually less than one micrometer) it can
>then be plated at high speed in the electroplating tank. I
>remember Tom (twb8899@...) talking on this group about
>using the palladium process in his PCB shop. Out of interest
>what's the price of the palladium solution ?
>> This will produce plates that have 35 u of copper if you start withdry film.
>> copper plates that have 18u alreay. After this a photoresist is
>> laminated on the board. The negative mask is made in a way so as the
>> holes are not there, that said, the hole areas do get light during the
>> exposion and hence they will not be etched. The developement of the
>> photoresist is made with soda. After the etching of the board the
>> remaining parts of the photoresist is once more "developped" with
>> natriumhydroxid solution.
>>
>
>
>What type of photoresist are you using, liquid or dry film ?,
>Is the photoresist soluble in developer solution BEFOREI have to laminate it, then do the light exposure then developp it. I
>light exposure ? (this is called "negative resist")
>How are you applying the resist to the board ?I laminate the film with a regular office laminator - well, I took
> From what you mentioned above I suspect your using dry filmI use 20g/L of Na2CO3
>negative photoresist. Developer of this resist is 10g/L of
>Na2CO3 at 25~30°C and the stripper (remove all resist) is
>usually 10 to 30g/L of NaOH.
2003-06-07 by adam Seychell
>>Markus Zingg wrote:Thanks for the price info. I'd expected that price range. I
>
>
> You are right, I am using palladium activation. The palladium is 200
> EUR per 0.5 liter. That's expensive, but my 2.5 liter tank only needs
> 125ml per load. The remaining part is filled up with the pre-dip
> solution which is a lot cheaper. That said, the 200 EUR palladium is
> sufficient for four loads which last quite a while.
>Yes, that's what people call a "negative" resist.
> I have to laminate it, then do the light exposure then developp it. I
> used the term "negative" becuase the exposed parts of the film are
> thereafter resisting to the developper and those which are not exposed
> to light will be taken away from the developper.
>The strip solution is not critical, but from what I've read
>>From what you mentioned above I suspect your using dry film
>>negative photoresist. Developer of this resist is 10g/L of
>>Na2CO3 at 25~30°C and the stripper (remove all resist) is
>>usually 10 to 30g/L of NaOH.
>
>
> I use 20g/L of Na2CO3
> and later on to strip 15g/L of NaOH
>
2003-06-08 by stefan_trethan@gmx.at
2003-06-08 by Markus Zingg
>laminating:Thanks for the idea, but there are quite some office laminators which
>
>it should be possible to use a laser printer / copier fuser unit.
>simply construct a thermal controller for it or use the one in the printer
>if you can find it.
>
>then you have a very nice laminator with sizes up to 30cm or more (from
>copier).
>
>if you also take out the motor and some gears you may be able to build this
>motorised too, to get constant transport speed.
>
>maybe this is cheaper and easier than to get than a laminator wich eats 2mm.
2003-06-08 by Markus Zingg
>Yes, of course. I added covers to all tanks, and take extreme care to
>
>Markus Zingg wrote:
>>>Markus Zingg wrote:
>>
>>
>> You are right, I am using palladium activation. The palladium is 200
>> EUR per 0.5 liter. That's expensive, but my 2.5 liter tank only needs
>> 125ml per load. The remaining part is filled up with the pre-dip
>> solution which is a lot cheaper. That said, the 200 EUR palladium is
>> sufficient for four loads which last quite a while.
>
>Thanks for the price info. I'd expected that price range. I
>remember once a friend looked into doing his own through
>hole plating using conventional electroless copper and got a
>shock when the sales person faxed him the prices :). You
>point out that the economics going down this path yourself
>is still small compared to professional made boards, which
>is all the matters at the end of the day.
>
>I guess the importnat thing now is to take extra care not to
>comtaminate the palladium solution.
>There is really no alternative because its not likely yourVery intresting article! Too bad it's quite short on the methods. The
>going to develop your own chemistry and go through the years
> of research that the manufactures once did. Its taken
>decades for these alternative electroless copper systems to
>make it in the industry. If your are interested in the
>subject you might like to read;
>
>http://nr.stic.gov.tw/ejournal/ProceedingA/v23n3/365-368.pdf
>The strip solution is not critical, but from what I've readI too use a wide paint brush and do it quite similarly. Intresting
>on all dry film data sheets is the developer should be 9 to
>11g/L NaCO3. If the instructions say 20g/L then use that.
>For my developing method I pour 500 ml of warm water into a
>plastic tray and then add 50 ml of concentrate stock
>solution (100g/L NaCO3). I drop in the PCB and gently brush
>over with a 50 mm wide paint brush until I can clearly see
>all the copper. Then I continue brushing for another minute
>just to make sure all the (unexposed) resist is removed.
>I've had problems with resist residue if I don't do the
>extra brushing. Then the board is quickly rinsed and goes
>straight into the etchant. I found the resists can swell a
>the edges if rinsed for too long a time in fresh water. Once
>the bard goes into the acidic etchant then the resist film
>returns hard again.
2003-06-08 by adam Seychell
> On Sun, 08 Jun 2003 09:29:09 +1000, you wrote:That's interesting. I remember Tom once telling us how he
>
>>http://nr.stic.gov.tw/ejournal/ProceedingA/v23n3/365-368.pdf
>
> Very intresting article! Too bad it's quite short on the methods. The
> palladium as well as the pre dip bath smell like vanilla - so I FIGURE
> my solution uses the Palladium method which mentiones vanilla...
>
2003-06-08 by Markus Zingg
>Markus Zingg wrote:Adam
>> On Sun, 08 Jun 2003 09:29:09 +1000, you wrote:
>>
>>>http://nr.stic.gov.tw/ejournal/ProceedingA/v23n3/365-368.pdf
>>
>> Very intresting article! Too bad it's quite short on the methods. The
>> palladium as well as the pre dip bath smell like vanilla - so I FIGURE
>> my solution uses the Palladium method which mentiones vanilla...
>>
>
>That's interesting. I remember Tom once telling us how he
>knew a guy who patented a palladium system, and the magic
>ingredient was vanilla extract , vanillin. I've just
>searched the Homebrew_PCBs archives, and found the article
>posted by Tom.
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/1108
>
>Curiosity got the better of me, and I also went searching
>for the actual patent,
>
>US5071517 , see http://patft.uspto.gov/netahtml/srchnum.htm
>
>Adam