Homebrew PCBs

Hello,
I have made a few boards with the toner transfer method, and I've 
decided that it would be more consistent to get a laminator. I was 
hoping to find out of a model that would work well without too many time 
consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or fuser that works 
well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much it costs.
I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question but the Yahoo group 
search is useless.
Thanks
Martin K

Hello,
I have made a few boards with the toner transfer method, and I've
decided that it would be more consistent to get a laminator. I was
hoping to find out of a model that would work well without too many time
consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or fuser that works
well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much it costs.
I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question but the Yahoo group
search is useless.
Thanks
Martin K

I am using the GBC 200 that I got off of Ebay.  I moddified it per the
instructions on Pulsar.  It's easy and with the mod I can push .062
boards thru with two pieces  of the Pulsar and it's about .090 thick and
still use it as a laminator for paper.

Most of the time I use just the toner and photo paper thru this
laminator and run it thru at least 6 - 7 times  if not more.  Don't have
to use the iron anymore  not even to "tack" the pattern on the copper.


Staples doen't carry this laminator anymore but the next model up which
is $$ for me.  The one I go off of Ebay was $39.00.

HTH


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Martin Klingensmith <martin@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I have made a few boards with the toner transfer method, and I've
> decided that it would be more consistent to get a laminator. I was
> hoping to find out of a model that would work well without too many
time
> consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or fuser that works
> well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much it costs.
> I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question but the Yahoo
group

> search is useless.
> Thanks
> Martin K
>

Thank you for the helpful information.
I have had moderate success with glossy paper from a catalog (Coilcraft 
catalog)
It actually seems to work better using a clothes iron than did the Epson 
photo paper that I had sitting around.
It leaves a paper residue that doesn't seem to come off of the toner 
even with rubbing. I don't want to damage the toner too much in the 
paper removal process.

I didn't have a black permanent marker so I used packing tape to mask 
off a large unused portion of the board and to fix a bad trace. Overall 
it was a good process. I just got my device put together and tested. It 
is a 65v to 200v boost converter.
Again, thanks for the recommendation.
--
Martin Klingensmith

nixiebuilder wrote:

>
>
> I am using the GBC 200 that I got off of Ebay. I moddified it per the
> instructions on Pulsar. It's easy and with the mod I can push .062
> boards thru with two pieces of the Pulsar and it's about .090 thick and
> still use it as a laminator for paper.
>
> Most of the time I use just the toner and photo paper thru this
> laminator and run it thru at least 6 - 7 times if not more. Don't have
> to use the iron anymore not even to "tack" the pattern on the copper.
>
> Staples doen't carry this laminator anymore but the next model up which
> is $$ for me. The one I go off of Ebay was $39.00.
>
> HTH
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Martin Klingensmith <martin@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > I have made a few boards with the toner transfer method, and I've
> > decided that it would be more consistent to get a laminator. I was
> > hoping to find out of a model that would work well without too many
> time
> > consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or fuser that works
> > well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much it costs.
> > I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question but the Yahoo
> group
> > search is useless.
> > Thanks
> > Martin K
> >
>
>

On 13 Jan 2007, at 15:18, Martin Klingensmith wrote:

>  If you have a laminator or fuser that works well, I'd like to know  
> what model it is and how much it costs.

Unfortunately, the laminators that have been mentioned as being  
easily modifiable are only available in 120V versions, ie are USA- 
specific.

It would be helpful to have some models mentioned that are available  
outside that country.

We've had the 29.99UKP one from Maplin mentioned, any more? I'm  
thinking ease of modifying the drive cogs for PCBs as well as a  
throat that's shallow enough to be able to feed and retrieve smaller  
boards.

-- 

Cheers

Derryck

On Mon, 2007-01-15 at 09:20 +0000, Derryck Croker wrote:
> 
> On 13 Jan 2007, at 15:18, Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> 
> > If you have a laminator or fuser that works well, I'd like to know 
> > what model it is and how much it costs.
> 
> Unfortunately, the laminators that have been mentioned as being 
> easily modifiable are only available in 120V versions, ie are USA- 
> specific.
> 
> It would be helpful to have some models mentioned that are available 
> outside that country.

I'm using an Ibico PL-260 LSI laminator here in New Zealand, that runs
fine off 230-240VAC @ 50Hz. It's ideal for the job, since it has sprung
rollers on entrance and exit, and sprung hot plates in the middle.

Got it for $35 (USD$24) from a second hand store - they thought it was
faulty since they didn't know this type of laminator needs carrier
sheets.

What I like about this model is the adjustable motor speed and
temperature (though I always set it at its highest - 160degC).

For PCB toner transfer, it works like an absolute dream - best if the
boards are fed in corners first. Feed in each corner, turn board upside
down, repeat, 8 passes in all, perfect transfer every time.

Unfortunately, this type of laminator seems to be increasingly hard to
get. Most/all of the new laminators have hot and/or non-sprung rollers.
The second hand market might be the best bet.

Cheers
David

On Sun, 2007-01-14 at 22:19 -0500, Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> It leaves a paper residue that doesn't seem to come off of the toner 
> even with rubbing. I don't want to damage the toner too much in the 
> paper removal process.

I've had good success (after the rubbing gently under running water
phase) with applying clear packing tape to the dried surface, then
peeling off slowly and gently. Best to have traces 16mil or thicker
though.

Cheers
David

Check out the Database section for a comparison of laminators.

Look for one with an adjustable heat seatting, or a "foil" setting. The 
Xerox 1190 works great for me. It is sold under a number of different 
brand names.

Myc

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David McNab <rebirth@...> wrote:
>
> On Sun, 2007-01-14 at 22:19 -0500, Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> > It leaves a paper residue that doesn't seem to come off of the 
toner 

> > even with rubbing. I don't want to damage the toner too much in the 
> > paper removal process.
> 
> I've had good success (after the rubbing gently under running water
> phase) with applying clear packing tape to the dried surface, then
> peeling off slowly and gently. Best to have traces 16mil or thicker
> though.
> 
> Cheers
> David
>

Just thought id mention that the one from maplin does not need modifying, its works well with about 6 passes. I had a look at trying to make it feed slower, but the way the gears are, its not possible to simply swap them around. But anyway, it works as it is when switched to the hotter setting.

Gary

----- Original Message ----
From: Derryck Croker <derryck@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 9:20:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] "Best" laminator to use


On 13 Jan 2007, at 15:18, Martin Klingensmith wrote:

> If you have a laminator or fuser that works well, I'd like to know 
> what model it is and how much it costs.

Unfortunately, the laminators that have been mentioned as being 
easily modifiable are only available in 120V versions, ie are USA- 
specific.

It would be helpful to have some models mentioned that are available 
outside that country.

We've had the 29.99UKP one from Maplin mentioned, any more? I'm 
thinking ease of modifying the drive cogs for PCBs as well as a 
throat that's shallow enough to be able to feed and retrieve smaller 
boards.

-- 

Cheers

Derryck





 
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hi,
  are any mods needed for the Techko LM1910 laminator?
thanks.

Ken

--- Martin Klingensmith <martin@...> wrote:

> Hello,
> I have made a few boards with the toner transfer
> method, and I've
> decided that it would be more consistent to get a
> laminator. I was
> hoping to find out of a model that would work well
> without too many time
> consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or
> fuser that works
> well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much
> it costs.
> I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question
> but the Yahoo group
> search is useless.
> Thanks
> Martin K
> 
> 



 
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that's similar to the Xerox version that I have. No mods are needed. Just
crank the temp to foil and feed the board in diagonally.

Good luck

Myc

On 1/16/07, Ken Ames <kenames99@...> wrote:
>
>   hi,
> are any mods needed for the Techko LM1910 laminator?
> thanks.
>
> Ken
>
> --- Martin Klingensmith <martin@... <martin%40nnytech.net>> wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> > I have made a few boards with the toner transfer
> > method, and I've
> > decided that it would be more consistent to get a
> > laminator. I was
> > hoping to find out of a model that would work well
> > without too many time
> > consuming modifications. If you have a laminator or
> > fuser that works
> > well, I'd like to know what model it is and how much
> > it costs.
> > I'm sorry I know this is probably a common question
> > but the Yahoo group
> > search is useless.
> > Thanks
> > Martin K
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]