Homebrew PCBs

I'm new here but has anyone summarized the easiest way to setup for
direct inkjet - the best printer to use, detailed steps, etc. I hope
Sahin's blog, which gets into firmware etc, is not the easiest.

>
> I'm new here but has anyone summarized the easiest way to setup for
>  direct inkjet - the best printer to use, detailed steps, etc. I hope
>  Sahin's blog, which gets into firmware etc, is not the easiest.

I think an epson stylus photo 900  which takes a full size  a4 cd tray
 would be a winner  if the carts  were filled  with  good  ink.



Lez

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Lewis" <jim.lewis@...> 
wrote:
>
> I'm new here but has anyone summarized the easiest way to setup for
> direct inkjet - the best printer to use, detailed steps, etc. I hope
> Sahin's blog, which gets into firmware etc, is not the easiest.
>

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm

The C84 is probably the easist. If you use the super thin stock, you 
can skip most of the physical modifications to the printer.

If you do it, please consider documenting the experience and results 
(even if it doesn't work out) so others can learn.

---
James

Stephen Lane wrote:
    I'm new to the Forum, I have been making PCBs via the UV exposure 
method for years, I also make a Theatrical effect called a Gobo from 
etched Brass using the same techniques as  PCB manufacture, having 
become increasingly disappointed with the easy to find Electrolube 
Positive Resist always being out of date on the shelf & the price that 
was steadily escalating I looked for some new ideas & I found them on 
this forum so using the info accumulated on the site I come up with the 
following instantly successful way of creating an etchable object (I use 
the same process for Brass or copper it dosen't matter which except the 
PCB material has to be fed thru a modified printer (details for this are 
avail on this forum & its a project for me in the next few weeks to mod 
my printer to accept boards horizontally))
    So to summerise
          Hardware is plain clone computer with P4 3Ghz & 2Gig RAM & an 
Epson C87 with original Durabrite Inks in it & a GMC Heat Gun (Hot Air 
Paint Stripper), Software is Protel 99SE & Paint Shop Pro when needed, 
touch ups are performed with Staedtler 318 markers or Texta Parcelmate 
Markers & I etch in Ferric Chloride.

   1.  Prepare the Artwork as clearly as possible with what ever package
      allows you to print a Raster picture of the finished layer you are
      going to etch be careful of the mirror image issues as you are
      usually looking down on the component side of the board & you need
      to print the mirror image of the bottom layer for instance. One
      thing that might help here & I use this for the later steps is
      export the layout as a picture(.bmp, .jpg or .tif for instance) if
      you can this helps later but do a check print for dimensional
      accuracy.
   2. When the you are happy with the Artwork bring it into the Paint
      Program & change the track color to 100% Yellow 40% Magenta (this
      creates a deep brown color (& yellow & magenta polymerise best &
      remain the most resistant in the following steps. The Brown color
      could be achieved via the printer driver to I think but I haven't
      tried it yet).
   3. Prepare your board material THIS IS CRITICAL to the success of any
      of the procedures for Homebrew PCBs & cannot be stressed enough.
      The board must be free of all oxides & contaminants particularly
      oily greasy ones & should ideally be roughened to provide a key
      for the resist(ink or otherwise) to sit on & slightly penetrate
      the surface of the board. I use AJAX powder cleanser & a green
      potscrubber (which has never been in contact with a greasy pan in
      its life (In fact I buy a cheap pack of 6 & cut one into quarters
      & throw away after a couple of boards if nesc. You scrub the
      surface of the copper in at least 3 directions edge to edge with
      some of the powder cleanser & wash off, when its clean water won't
      bead on the surface it flows evenly (turn it over or try an
      uncleaned bit & compare you will see what I mean) dry the board as
      quick & as gently as possible (I use a convection microwave on
      convection only set to 130 degrees C for 10mins) when no water on
      surface is observed remove from the oven & let cool off. As soon
      as cool wipe surface off with Acetone (note the last of the Black
      Deposit that comes off the Copper onto the tissue). This stuff has
      to happen inside a 15 to 30 min window of time because the copper
      will start to oxydise immediately  & this will stuff up the
      etching later (In fact if you arn't going to etch as soon as
      you've printed don't start until you can finish the whole
      process), clean the 2nd side if nesc. before drying & cleaning
      with Acetone
   4. With your freshly modified printer that allows you to feed the
      board thru horizontally do a test print to work out where the to
      stick the piece of Board then align your board to your carrier
      using this test print. Stick or mount your board using a heat
      proof tape to the carrier. Then print the picture/tracks on the
      copper side of the board
   5. Dry the Ink on the board by subjecting it to heat hot enough to
      polymerise the resin in the ink My Heat Gun says that its a 300C
      to 350C the critical thing is to watch the surface of the ink at
      an Angle so you can see it go dull & solid try & keep away from
      the tape because you may want to reprint the design & registration
      is critical. Instead of reprinting if any defects in the big bits
      bother you, you can dot them out with a black texta (I use
      Parcelmates but Stedtler 318 Perm Marker works very well) the
      tracks tend to not have issues but the big open earth plains can
      cause the pooling that people talk about & feeding the board thru
      twice when wet makes a ral mess of your nice clean printer & drags
      the good bits of the 1st layer off the right places (Very messy &
      you have to clean the board all over again). Repeat for the 2nd
      side of the board if nesc or coat the 2nd side of the board with a
      varnish or thick black texta..
   6. Etch the board, I have found the side to side rocking has the best
      effect. I also activate the Ferric Chloride by microwaving for 5
      to 10 sec (any longer will melt plastic  or cause the Ferric
      Chloride to be too active & strip the resist as well as the
      copper) before I start (for a 100mm by 100mm size board this is
      sufficient for the whole etch run). Once the thin tracks have been
      etched use the black texta to protect them from undercutting &
      keep etching until finished (remove wash in fresh water & spot dry
      with soft tissue before touching up with texta and continuing)
   7. You should have a usable board at this point which still needs
      drilling & a conformal coating or tinning to stop corrosion.

Long Post sorry
However thanks for all the people that documented what they have 
achieved in the Forum. I used the above method which is a consolidation 
of all the documentation & my own tried & true cleaning techniques to 
achieve instant success the 1st time I tried to etch an object.
So I hope this helps

Regards
Stephen Lane


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Stephen,

great work! I'm glad to hear people are working on inkjet printing since  
my C84 is just sitting around here looking dumb those last few weeks. I  
even had to get back the fuser from the attic when i had to make a few  
PCBs, like NOW, and the inkjet wouldn't work, imagine that. I had put it  
up there confident i won't need it no more.

Anyway, i expect people will be especially glad to hear original  
durabright ink works!
No nobody should have excuses not to use this method ;-)

I'm somewhat surprised you have rather non-critical curing circumstances,  
maybe the durabright is even better suited for PCBs than the mispro ink.  
(Of course that would not be great since it likely costs a lot more.)

Thanks for sharing your experience, and please do stick around since  
there's bound to be questions.


ST

Stephen Lane again:
    No problems any questions I'll do my best to answer them.
    The heat gun I use is a real hot one & I'm not sure of the actual 
temp on the board I'm going to borrow a thermocouple from work & try & 
measure it. The measure of "done" I used was based on what the toner 
transfer method described when you do the second melt of the toner onto 
the transfer paper (where it goes nice & shiny and any pin holes are 
supposed to fill themselves in) here it goes a nice dry flat mat & emits 
a bit of "steam" which I'm careful not to breath in.

    re the Durabrite inks I have not found a supplier for Mispro in 
Australia so if anyone can point one out I will be most grateful I have 
found a supplier that says the OEM ink they supply is a pigment one but 
it will cost as much to buy a set of new carts as to buy a bulk supply 
on spec & then discover it won't work. As pointed out in the Forum the 
Black Ink is a waste of time & so is the Durabrite Black, I put some 
test stuff around the actual thing I wanted the first time & the brown 
combo was the only thing that came thru unscathed which I was suitably 
impressed with & grateful for the Forum for pointing out the possibilities.
   
    Thru out all my experience in making PCBs in the kitchen (even small 
runs at work when we had a design arm) I can not reiterate hard enough 
how important a clean, grease free copper surface with some fine 
scratches in it helps the whole process. Followed by the time between 
cleaning to etching must be kept as quick as is safely possible to 
minimize the effect of the oxidation that starts instantly the board 
stops being cleaned (you only need to look at the black deposit on the 
"lint free" tissue that you use to wipe it after drying with Acetone to 
realize.that something is starting to happen even while your drying the 
board).

    Another thing to think about when laying out the Artwork is to not 
have large expanses of Copper to etch away if you can help it, not only 
does this load up your etchant it is usually the last bit to go & while 
you were waiting the small tracks between the IC pads just got seriously 
under cut reducing their current carrying capacity or plain disappeared 
(hence my hint re the remove, wash, dry & touch up in the original 
post). If I have big expanses of board that arn't needed I tend to pour 
a fill into them or do a X hash with tracks, make an extra ground plain, 
anything to make the amount to be etched to be the same average over all.
    Anyway I'm probably beating on somebody else's drum as I have'nt had 
time to peruse all the Archives & everything in the last couple of years 
but these last points are the things that really help me.

Regards
Stephen Lane

Hi all,

I searched the current printers in Turkey.
According to my search, only Epson inkjets are
suitable for direct PCB printing because of its
suitable mechanics.

Other issue is the water resistant ink refill
opportunity of the Epson printers. I have no idea
but according to my Internet search, only Epson's
cartridges are water resistant refillable.

Epson C84 is an expensive and almost obsolete product.
Or at least I it is not easy to find.

One new and cheap option is Epson C48.
As I examined its mechanical structure seems to
be suitable for this job.

Had anyone test it?
What is your opinion?

Best regards,

Bora


--- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

> Stephen,
> 
> great work! I'm glad to hear people are working on
> inkjet printing since  
> my C84 is just sitting around here looking dumb
> those last few weeks. I  
> even had to get back the fuser from the attic when i
> had to make a few  
> PCBs, like NOW, and the inkjet wouldn't work,
> imagine that. I had put it  
> up there confident i won't need it no more.
> 
> Anyway, i expect people will be especially glad to
> hear original  
> durabright ink works!
> No nobody should have excuses not to use this method
> ;-)
> 
> I'm somewhat surprised you have rather non-critical
> curing circumstances,  
> maybe the durabright is even better suited for PCBs
> than the mispro ink.  
> (Of course that would not be great since it likely
> costs a lot more.)
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience, and please do
> stick around since  
> there's bound to be questions.
> 
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> 
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post
> them here:
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> mailto:Homebrew_PCBs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> 
> 
> 
> 




 
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On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 19:21:25 +0100, Bora Dikmen <bora_dikmen@...>  
wrote:

>
> One new and cheap option is Epson C48.
> As I examined its mechanical structure seems to
> be suitable for this job.
> Had anyone test it?
> What is your opinion?


it may not have enough nozzles.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 19:21:25 +0100, Bora Dikmen <bora_dikmen@...>  
> wrote:
> 
> >
> > One new and cheap option is Epson C48.
> > As I examined its mechanical structure seems to
> > be suitable for this job.
> > Had anyone test it?
> > What is your opinion?
> 
> 
> it may not have enough nozzles.

Bora, can you get the Epson C88? It's the latest in the progression
from C80, C82, C84, C86. Don't know about it's mechanical suitability.

Steve Greenfield

I have a C88 which I'm working on now and it does not appear to be much different than the C84. I
had all the mechanicals done and was test printing on paper taped to a pc board and all was well,
UNTIL! I put the controller cable into the power supply connector. Psssssst no more worky. Both
connectors are the same just a different color and I was not paying attention. I tried to get a
replacement board but it's $60 and a complete rebuilt printer one from Epson is only $60 with all
new inks, so I will be getting one of those and try again. HINT if work to poor to pay attention
don't do the work.

I can not find C88 in Turkey. But there is a lot of
link for D88. C88 and D88 seem very similar?

Technology
	
4-colour inkjet printer, Epson Micro Piezo\ufffd print head
Epson Variable-sized Droplet Technology for minimum
3pl droplet size
Print head of 180 nozzles for Black, 59 nozzles per
Cyan, Magenta, Yellow

Print Quality
	
Up to 5760 x 1440 optimised dpi on suitable media
using RPM (Resolution Performance Management)

--- Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan
> Trethan"
> <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> >
> > On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 19:21:25 +0100, Bora Dikmen
> <bora_dikmen@...>  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > > One new and cheap option is Epson C48.
> > > As I examined its mechanical structure seems to
> > > be suitable for this job.
> > > Had anyone test it?
> > > What is your opinion?
> > 
> > 
> > it may not have enough nozzles.
> 
> Bora, can you get the Epson C88? It's the latest in
> the progression
> from C80, C82, C84, C86. Don't know about it's
> mechanical suitability.
> 
> Steve Greenfield
> 
> 
> 




 
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On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 20:34:17 +0100, Bora Dikmen <bora_dikmen@...>  
wrote:

>
> Print head of 180 nozzles for Black, 59 nozzles per
> Cyan, Magenta, Yellow


That should definitely be enough nozzles, if that is even important.

ST

Hi All,

Could someone give me a few pointers.  This I am sure has been discussed but 
I am not sure where to look for the answer so I thought I'd ask.

I tried to build my own PCB with the radio shack kit but the traces are 
terrible.  They aren't smooth, they are jagged.  The traces are thick then 
too thin.  I used a sharpie, didn't work well.  Used the radio shack black 
traces that you press on to the copper clad board.  Very cumbersome and 
results weren't good.

Double sided was even worse.

What is a simple way to make my own double-side PCB ... even a single to 
start is good.  Where do I find a small drill bit?  Mine are too thick and 
the holes are too big that the DIP sockets don't fit properly.  Is there 
freeware to draw a circuit board, print on something to transfer to a copper 
clad board?  Or is there something better than chemical etching with the 
radio shack stuff?

I would like something inexpensive... guess the radio shack stuff is pretty 
cheap and easy to purchase without waiting days for the mail.  I've a inkjet 
HP, epson printer.  An old(very old) HP fax machine.  Toner seems to be 
expensive.  I've read some ppl speak of photo etching.  How complex is that? 
  I don't need a really professionally done PCB but something better than 
what I've been using from radio shack(press on traces, sharpie markers etc).

Any suggestions are most welcomed
Steve

_________________________________________________________________
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On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 22:16:31 +0100, Steven Phellps <scp2000@...>  
wrote:

> Hi All,
> Could someone give me a few pointers.  This I am sure has been discussed  
> but
> I am not sure where to look for the answer so I thought I'd ask.
> I tried to build my own PCB with the radio shack kit but the traces are
> terrible.  They aren't smooth, they are jagged.  The traces are thick  
> then
> too thin.  I used a sharpie, didn't work well.  Used the radio shack  
> black
> traces that you press on to the copper clad board.  Very cumbersome and
> results weren't good.
> Double sided was even worse.
> What is a simple way to make my own double-side PCB ... even a single to
> start is good.  Where do I find a small drill bit?  Mine are too thick  
> and
> the holes are too big that the DIP sockets don't fit properly.  Is there
> freeware to draw a circuit board, print on something to transfer to a  
> copper
> clad board?  Or is there something better than chemical etching with the
> radio shack stuff?
> I would like something inexpensive... guess the radio shack stuff is  
> pretty
> cheap and easy to purchase without waiting days for the mail.  I've a  
> inkjet
> HP, epson printer.  An old(very old) HP fax machine.  Toner seems to be
> expensive.  I've read some ppl speak of photo etching.  How complex is  
> that?
>   I don't need a really professionally done PCB but something better than
> what I've been using from radio shack(press on traces, sharpie markers  
> etc).
> Any suggestions are most welcomed
> Steve


If you can get a laser printer ($10 on ebay) or use a copier somewhere i'd  
suggest toner transfer.
If not, you'll have to use photo process. But that one is better explained  
by someone who doesn't think it a PITA.

ST

Lurk mode off/
I've used the photo-sensitive method (as recently as a week ago) and the RadioShack kit (a few years back). I haven't used the toner-transfer method yet.

On the RadioShack stuff - the copper needs to be really clean. Use a scouring pad and then wipe the board down with acetone. Don't assume the board is clean because it was in a plastic bag. (The PVC bags do something to the copper surface.) It's got to be clean _and_ smooth for the dry transfers to stick. A regular Sharpie (permanent marker) pen will resist the etchant as long as you let it dry well before etching.

Getting traces with rough edges (assuming the original artwork/pattern is smooth) makes me think of two causes. One, the transfers or ink wasn't put down completely or the board wasn't smooth or clean enough to let it stick. And two, the etching probably was done at room temperature. If you heat the etchant (ferrous chloride at RadioShack) to about 100F it will etch faster, which allows less time for it to sneak under the transfer or resist layer and make rough edges on your traces. (I usually put the etching tray in a larger tray of hot tap water to keep the etchant warm. Some put it in the microwave for 15 seconds or so - at their own risk.)

Personally, I have used MG Chemicals positive sensitized PCB system and it has worked well for small boards (3 inches by 6 inches, single sided). I still plan to try the toner transfer when I get a chance.

For double sided DIY boards, some align the artwork top and bottom with tape and then apply the pattern (either toner transfer, photo, etc). Some drill the mounting holes first and then use them to align the patterns top and bottom. In either case, you have to be able to make a reliable pattern in the copper first.

Good luck!
Paul

----- Original Message ----
From: Steven Phellps <scp2000@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2006 3:16:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] easy PCB









  


    
            

Hi All,



Could someone give me a few pointers.  This I am sure has been discussed but 

I am not sure where to look for the answer so I thought I'd ask.



I tried to build my own PCB with the radio shack kit but the traces are 

terrible.  They aren't smooth, they are jagged.  The traces are thick then 

too thin.  I used a sharpie, didn't work well.  Used the radio shack black 

traces that you press on to the copper clad board.  Very cumbersome and 

results weren't good.



Double sided was even worse.



What is a simple way to make my own double-side PCB ... even a single to 

start is good.  Where do I find a small drill bit?  Mine are too thick and 

the holes are too big that the DIP sockets don't fit properly.  Is there 

freeware to draw a circuit board, print on something to transfer to a copper 

clad board?  Or is there something better than chemical etching with the 

radio shack stuff?



I would like something inexpensive. .. guess the radio shack stuff is pretty 

cheap and easy to purchase without waiting days for the mail.  I've a inkjet 

HP, epson printer.  An old(very old) HP fax machine.  Toner seems to be 

expensive.  I've read some ppl speak of photo etching.  How complex is that? 

  I don't need a really professionally done PCB but something better than 

what I've been using from radio shack(press on traces, sharpie markers etc).



Any suggestions are most welcomed

Steve



____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

Try Search Survival Kits: Fix up your home and better handle your cash with 

Live Search! 

http://imagine- windowslive. com/search/ kits/default. aspx?kit= improve&locale= en-US&source= hmtagline





    
  

    
    




<!--

Hello to all at homebrew , this is my first posting in this group.

anyone knows whether it is neccessary to have durabrite ink?

Epson's newer printers C79 , 90nozzle (Black) and 29 nozzles(C,M,Y) [without durabrite]

Epson's C67 , 90nozzle (Black) and 29 nozzles(C,M,Y) [with durabrite]

i can't see any difference in these printers.


 
---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/7/2006 3:20:44 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
scp2000@... writes:

I  tried to build my own PCB with the radio shack kit but the traces are  
terrible. They aren't smooth, they are jagged. The traces are thick then too  
thin. I used a sharpie, didn't work well. Used the radio shack black traces  that 
you press on to the copper clad board. Very cumbersome and results  weren't 
good.<<
A little patience and experience will enable you do to do  quite fine PCB's 
with the RS stuff!  Their pressure-sensitive resist  patters work FINE!  You 
must clean the board of all goop and film and  boogers and water, and then rub 
the patterns down good, and use the wax-paper  like stuff between the sheets of 
patterns over the pattern on the copper as a  shield, and rub down hard with 
a ball-point pen, so there are NO lifted corners,  etc.  
 
Drill your holes FIRST so you can do double-sided!   You must de-burr and 
clean after drilling!  Use only carbide PCB drill-bits  in a DRILL-PRESS (a good 
one!).  Those bits ALL have 1/8" shanks.   There are places you can buy boxes 
of 50 of a size reasonably  ("re-grinds").  Look in the "want-ad pages" of 
magazines like  Radio-Electronics or Popular Electronics or catalogs of Jameco 
and JDR  Microdevices, etc.  NEVER attempt to use a carbide PCB drill-bit in a  
Dremel in your hand!  It just will NOT work!  And busted carbide bits  cost 
$money very, very fast!    If you need to know a "size" when  thinking about 
ordering a box of fifty, #56 is a good size.  (one or two  numbers smaller or 
larger would be useful).  Some vendors offer assortments  of sizes, but you WILL 
bust the one or two "most needed" diameters the first  day, so only buy those 
assortments after you become a skilled  expert!              Jan  Rowland

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Wed, 08 Nov 2006 01:53:50 +0100, cbq <timconfig@...> wrote:

> Hello to all at homebrew , this is my first posting in this group.
> anyone knows whether it is neccessary to have durabrite ink?
> Epson's newer printers C79 , 90nozzle (Black) and 29 nozzles(C,M,Y)  
> [without durabrite]
> Epson's C67 , 90nozzle (Black) and 29 nozzles(C,M,Y) [with durabrite]
> i can't see any difference in these printers.


I think MISPRO ink will work in both, but durabright might not.

ST

Dear List members,

At the final, I found EPSON STYLUS C86 in Turkey.
Since it has also empty spongeless cartridges
from MIS Assc. Inc. I prefer C86 although D88
seems superior.

Whar is your opinion?

Best Bora,


Stylus C86 Specifications:

Resolution: 5760 Optimised dpi, 2880 x 1440 dpi 

Min Droplet Size: 4pl 

Bundled Ink Cartridges:
Black:T0441 (Standard Capacity)
Cyan: T0452 (Standard Capacity)
Magenta: T0453 (Standard Capacity)
Yellow:T0454 (Standard Capacity)

Optional Ink Cartridges:
Cyan: T0442 (High Capacity)
Magenta: T0443 (High Capacity)
Yellow: T0444 (High Capacity)

Technology:	

Epson Micro PiezoT
Black ink head : 90 nozzles
Colour ink head : 177 nozzles 
(59 per colour: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow) 





 
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As Stefan said, the number of nozzles may not be important, it only 
seems to increase the print speed as the head can do 1 pass with 180 
nozzles or
2 offset passes with 90 nozzles.

There may be some changes in the registration of the dots of ink fired 
at the board because of the different mechanical tolerances and so forth
however to get such high resolutions as quoted in the printer manual 
they all do multiple passes anyway. I'm betting the difference is not 
significant
excluding  print speed.

I guess I will find out when I mod the C67 I have  to start with as 
trial one of inkjet PCB printing and refine the mechanics in the move to 
the C87 which is also sitting on the study floor.
The mechanics of these machines is identical except for the larger 
number of print nozzles in the C87.

Cheers,
David


Stefan Trethan wrote:

> On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 20:34:17 +0100, Bora Dikmen <bora_dikmen@...>  
> wrote:
>
>   
>> Print head of 180 nozzles for Black, 59 nozzles per
>> Cyan, Magenta, Yellow
>>     
>
>
> That should definitely be enough nozzles, if that is even important.
>
> ST
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>  ** ACCEPT: CRM114 PASS osb unique microgroom Matcher ** 
> CLASSIFY succeeds; success probability: 1.0000  pR: 13.8672
> Best match to file #0 (nonspam.css) prob: 1.0000  pR: 13.8672  
> Total features in input file: 2824
> #0 (nonspam.css): features: 115816, hits: 110286, prob: 1.00e-00, pR:  13.87 
> #1 (spam.css): features: 227753, hits: 98540, prob: 1.36e-14, pR: -13.87 
>  
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David Cureton <yahoo@...> 
wrote:

> I guess I will find out when I mod the C67 I have  to start with 
as 
> trial one of inkjet PCB printing and refine the mechanics in the 
move to 
> the C87 which is also sitting on the study floor.
> The mechanics of these machines is identical except for the larger 
> number of print nozzles in the C87.
> 
> Cheers,
> David

Anyone who is modifying printers for direct inkjet to PCB: Please 
keep in mind that I would really love to add any documentation 
(pictures, text, etc...) you might care to collect to the web site. 

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm

I know a lot of people have found the documentation for the C84 from 
Stephen and the CX4200 from Volkan very helpful and so adding 
documentation for other printers would be of value.

Stephen Lane wrote:
    Some one in the group did the maths on the printer head holes & 
pointed out if I remember that if you wanted to do good plots of tracks 
between IC Pads you needed to us a printer of around 1440dpi (its 
something to do with the number of holes per color) & the lower 
resolution printers have fewer holes so less achievable resolution when 
printing in on copper using one ink (yellow magenta works best I've 
found). Anyway its in the Archives I found it enjoy

Regards
Stephen