Homebrew_PCBs

Just to have one post today on the subject. Are there any new
results?

I did come across this during a discussion on another group:

Sodium Persulfate is a good replacement for Ammonium Persulfate for
its compatibility with etch resist pens. Sodium Persulfate will not
remove etch resist ink and like Ammonium Persulfate crystals, are
used as an alternative to the traditional ferric chloride to produce
a cleaner copper etchant solution.

Here's the link:


http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4101.html


Something to be considered down the line. I did notice how fragile
the Durabrite ink ws in both FeCL and HCl/H2O2 etches. I did not try
Ammonium Persulfate.

Myc

Darn, I have 2 bottles of ammonium persulphate, I was hoping it was the
newer better stuff. I'm finishing my curent batch of ferric chloride and
was planning on switching to the crystals then. I'm hearing nothing but
good about sodium P, I might just put the ammonium P in extended storage and
buy some sodium P instead.

Robert
:(

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de mycroft2152
> Envoyé : mai 4 2006 17:45
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Status on Direct to pcb inkjet printing
>
>

...

I do now have the ink. But not yet the printer.
I tried painting by hand and it looks the yellow makes a much better
looking coat than the black (the black looks grainy and with copper
shining through and the yellow nice and smooth). Also it seemed to me
yellow dried much quicker.

I did not yet etch because my PCB holder broke (epoxy glue let go) the
last time i made a PCB and i forgot to fix it. Will finish repairing it
tomorrow, and maybe also get the printer. If not i will do some etching
tests with hand painted ink and different ratios of black/yellow. But
yellow seems visible enough so that it would not need any coloring at all
if it is bad in any way.

One thing that stood out is that this paint did coat the copper very well
indeed. No beading up or pulling together at all, and i only did my usual
prep (brief sand with 1000grit and wipe with alcohol).

I will produce more results and hopefully some pictures tomorrow.

ST


On Thu, 04 May 2006 23:44:41 +0200, mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>
wrote:

Stefan Trethan wrote:

>One thing that stood out is that this paint did coat the copper very well
>indeed. No beading up or pulling together at all, and i only did my usual
>prep (brief sand with 1000grit and wipe with alcohol).
>
>
>

This part really begs the question for what about the yellow is making
it work. The gallon looks tremendously cheap in comparison to the small
amounts too, if everything works out I may get one and split it up.
Even if it's the pigment itself, and the pigment properties are hard to
find in something else, the pigment may be far cheaper once we locate a
source. Should work fine to add it to another ink or simply make our own..

Alan

At 03:23 PM 5/7/2006, you wrote:

>Just to have one post today on the subject. Are there any new
>results?

My test :
1. draw, using a toothpick, with Y and, separately, C, ( reguar
Epson's DuraBrite) on a piece of PCB.
2. burn with a heat gun (it seems it is important)
3. FeCl
4. C hold better than Y

Note: it was not a MIS ink.
Cristian

At 03:23 PM 5/7/2006, you wrote:

>Just to have one post today on the subject. Are there any new
>results?

Another test, using the InkTec equivalent to DuraBrite (not a MIS ink again):
1. draw with a toothpick
2. burn with a 1600W heat gun at 1" for one minute
3. FeCl
4. Again C holds better than Y and M.

That burn IS important.
Also thick print is important.

Tomorrow I'll receive the R220 (CD printing) to test a real print.

My first test :
1. draw, using a toothpick, with Y and, separately, C, ( reguar
Epson's DuraBrite) on a piece of PCB.
2. burn with a heat gun (it seems it is important)
3. FeCl
4. C hold better than Y

Note: it was not a MIS ink.
Cristian