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refilling spongeless

refilling spongeless

2006-04-30 by Lez

I have just found a uk site that do a spongless cartirdge for my
printer (t007) (wished I could find a t009)

They also sell pigment inks etc so I thought I was onto a winner, but
I read this on their...
<quote>

These tools are required to fill the spongeless cartridges (you cannot
use an ordinary syringe). We supply one with each cartridge set but
you may want additional tools so you don't have to wash them between
colours.

They are like syringes but have a hollow plunger so that air can be
withdrawn from the cartridge when the plunger is pulled out and then
replaced with ink when the plunger is pushed in. They come with a long
metal tube to allow ink to be loaded from thebottom of our 100ml
bottles.

</end quote>

Err, dont you just inject the ink into the cartridge ?



--



Lez

- Looking for early starwars (episode 4, original starwars)
recordings, even pirate
-
- I dont need your originals just some information about running time
- and scene cut points
-
-
- also looking for a car, silver or white, 4 doors -
- diesel with a bosch pump, abs and pas -
- aircon would be nice, and not a ford -

Cutting FR4

2006-04-30 by William Kroyer

This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got a bunch of
36"X48" sheets
of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to work. At
least not for long.
Initially, I tried just using my jig saw with a metal cutting blade on
it. I went through 2
and only got about 1/4" out of each. Then I tried just using my
router. I killed the bit
but was able to cut up 1.5 sheets before doing so. Today I picked up
some 7" cut-off
wheels for my circular saw. Each wheel cut about 24" each before
tearing itself free
of the mount.

Any suggestions? I know for smaller pieces I could probably use a
paper cutter as a
cutting shear but I don't know I'm going to get these large pieces cut down.

Lez wrote:

> I have just found a uk site that do a spongless cartirdge for my
> printer (t007) (wished I could find a t009)
>
> They also sell pigment inks etc so I thought I was onto a winner, but
> I read this on their...
> <quote>
>
> These tools are required to fill the spongeless cartridges (you cannot
> use an ordinary syringe). We supply one with each cartridge set but
> you may want additional tools so you don't have to wash them between
> colours.
>
> They are like syringes but have a hollow plunger so that air can be
> withdrawn from the cartridge when the plunger is pulled out and then
> replaced with ink when the plunger is pushed in. They come with a long
> metal tube to allow ink to be loaded from thebottom of our 100ml
> bottles.
>
> </end quote>
>
> Err, dont you just inject the ink into the cartridge ?
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> Lez
>
> - Looking for early starwars (episode 4, original starwars)
> recordings, even pirate
> -
> - I dont need your originals just some information about running time
> - and scene cut points
> -
> -
> - also looking for a car, silver or white, 4 doors -
> - diesel with a bosch pump, abs and pas -
> - aircon would be nice, and not a ford -
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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--



<www.kilroysprojects.net>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] refilling spongeless

2006-04-30 by Stefan Trethan

maybe those use such a strange negative pressure vaccum do it wrong and
you have a flood thing HP used to use...

ST


On Sun, 30 Apr 2006 18:01:28 +0200, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:

> I have just found a uk site that do a spongless cartirdge for my
>
> printer (t007) (wished I could find a t009)
>
>
> They also sell pigment inks etc so I thought I was onto a winner, but
>
> I read this on their...
>
> <quote>
>
>
> These tools are required to fill the spongeless cartridges (you cannot
>
> use an ordinary syringe). We supply one with each cartridge set but
>
> you may want additional tools so you don't have to wash them between
>
> colours.
>
>
> They are like syringes but have a hollow plunger so that air can be
>
> withdrawn from the cartridge when the plunger is pulled out and then
>
> replaced with ink when the plunger is pushed in. They come with a long
>
> metal tube to allow ink to be loaded from thebottom of our 100ml
>
> bottles.
>
>
> </end quote>
>
>
> Err, dont you just inject the ink into the cartridge ?
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
> Lez

Re: refilling spongeless

2006-04-30 by Steve

Depends on the cartridge. The C6x and C8x series cartridges have
valved on both the ink outlet -and- air inlet. Making the stock
cartridges very hard to fill.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> maybe those use such a strange negative pressure vaccum do it wrong
and
> you have a flood thing HP used to use...
>
> ST
>
>
> On Sun, 30 Apr 2006 18:01:28 +0200, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:
>
> > I have just found a uk site that do a spongless cartirdge for my
> >
> > printer (t007) (wished I could find a t009)
> >
> >
> > They also sell pigment inks etc so I thought I was onto a winner, but
> >
> > I read this on their...
> >
> > <quote>
> >
> >
> > These tools are required to fill the spongeless cartridges (you cannot
> >
> > use an ordinary syringe). We supply one with each cartridge set but
> >
> > you may want additional tools so you don't have to wash them between
> >
> > colours.
> >
> >
> > They are like syringes but have a hollow plunger so that air can be
> >
> > withdrawn from the cartridge when the plunger is pulled out and then
> >
> > replaced with ink when the plunger is pushed in. They come with a long
> >
> > metal tube to allow ink to be loaded from thebottom of our 100ml
> >
> > bottles.
> >
> >
> > </end quote>
> >
> >
> > Err, dont you just inject the ink into the cartridge ?

[Homebrew_PCBs] RE : refilling spongeless

2006-04-30 by Robert Hedan

http://www.inksupply.com/c86_slc_refill.cfm

3. ... Next, remove the needle from the end of syringe and attach the bottom
fill adapter (MIS-BADPT). Draw out 1 cc of ink from the exit port to remove
any trapped air.


Fill from the top like any other cartridge and drain air from the bottom to
'prime' the cartridge.

Odd, they call it MIS-BADPT in that instruction page, but it is called
MIS-BADP in the accessory list?
http://www.inksupply.com/accessory.cfm
MIS-BADP BOTTOM FILL ADAPTER 1 $0.50

Robert
:)


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lez
> Envoyé : avril 30 2006 12:01
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] refilling spongeless
>
...
>
> Err, dont you just inject the ink into the cartridge ?
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4

2006-04-30 by Stefan Trethan

I use a hand lever shear, like this one:
<http://www.schaller-maschinen-ag.ch/Handhebelblechschere_001.jpg>

they are relatively cheap compared to bench shears that have a long blade.
The material can run through with some bending for long cuts.
It seems shear-type cutting lasts with FR4, any sawing is a pain unless
you use carbide blades.

Used handheld shears before that.

A small circular saw with a carbide blade (full blade not only teeth
inserts) did make the best cuts for me, but lotsa noise and dust. I don't
want to have to don a spacesuit with earmuffs only to cut a PCB, so the
lever shear it is...

ST


On Sun, 30 Apr 2006 18:33:18 +0200, William Kroyer
<william.kroyer@...> wrote:

> This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got a bunch of
>
> 36"X48" sheets
>
> of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to work. At
>
> least not for long.
>
> Initially, I tried just using my jig saw with a metal cutting blade on
>
> it. I went through 2
>
> and only got about 1/4" out of each. Then I tried just using my
>
> router. I killed the bit
>
> but was able to cut up 1.5 sheets before doing so. Today I picked up
>
> some 7" cut-off
>
> wheels for my circular saw. Each wheel cut about 24" each before
>
> tearing itself free
>
> of the mount.
>
>
> Any suggestions? I know for smaller pieces I could probably use a
>
> paper cutter as a
>
> cutting shear but I don't know I'm going to get these large pieces cut
> down.

Re: Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by Andrew

> someone - steve maybe wrote:
> <SNIP>
> A small circular saw with a carbide blade (full
> blade not only teeth inserts) did make the best
> cuts for me, but lotsa noise and dust. I don't
> want to have to don a spacesuit with earmuffs
> only to cut a PCB, so the lever shear it is...

I don't know how easy it would be to do the large
cuts first spoken of. Also you still need the
space suit. Though for small cuts I have used a
small tile saw with a diamond blade.

For preference I use a bench sheer - but sometimes
I need to make cuts that are not in a straight
line. For that the bench sheer is a bit useless.

ALSO an idea to not have to don the space suit
would be to ask the next door neighbours 10 year
old son to do it. I am sure he would love the
noise and dust heaps. Plus if you get him to do
enough of it - he wont grow up into a teenager
that has noisy parties every saturday night :D

[Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by Robert Hedan

I've switched to using small cutting disks from grinders onto my miter saw.
Thin cutting disks do not wear out on FR4, nothing substantial anyways.

Sheers don't generate dust, but I would expect the blade to dull.

Robert
:)



> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
> Envoyé : avril 30 2006 12:33
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4
>
>
> This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got
> a bunch of
> 36"X48" sheets
> of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to
> work. At
> least not for long.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by William Kroyer

I've tried using a 7" cutting wheel on my circular saw. After about
24" they tear free from the
center mount. I went through 3 of them this morning and made 1.5 cuts.
The last time I cut up
a sheet I used a regular router bit. Needless to say the bit was dead
by the time I was done. I
also tried a 1/8" mill end I had gotten from somewhere locked in my
router. It did a really nice
job for about 12" then snapped. I'm thinking a beefier mill end would work.

Robert Hedan wrote:

>I've switched to using small cutting disks from grinders onto my miter saw.
>Thin cutting disks do not wear out on FR4, nothing substantial anyways.
>
>Sheers don't generate dust, but I would expect the blade to dull.
>
>Robert
>:)
>
>
>
>
>
>>-----Message d'origine-----
>>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
>>Envoy� : avril 30 2006 12:33
>>� : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4
>>
>>
>> This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got
>>a bunch of
>>36"X48" sheets
>>of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to
>>work. At
>>least not for long.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--



<www.kilroysprojects.net>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by John Popelish

William Kroyer wrote:
> This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got a bunch of
> 36"X48" sheets
> of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to work. At
> least not for long.
> Initially, I tried just using my jig saw with a metal cutting blade on
> it. I went through 2
> and only got about 1/4" out of each. Then I tried just using my
> router. I killed the bit
> but was able to cut up 1.5 sheets before doing so. Today I picked up
> some 7" cut-off
> wheels for my circular saw. Each wheel cut about 24" each before
> tearing itself free
> of the mount.
>
> Any suggestions? I know for smaller pieces I could probably use a
> paper cutter as a
> cutting shear but I don't know I'm going to get these large pieces cut down.

I think the easiest way to cut straight lines is to use a scoring
knife that cuts through the copper and knick the fiberglass enough
that if you pull a few strokes on each side (must be fairly accurately
matched, so clamp a straight edge to the material, first), you can
break the board over a corner with minimal damage. Then you slide the
edges over silicon carbide paper to remove the short glass fibers that
hang out of the break. I steel cutter won't last very long, but since
they are easy to sharpen it isn't so bad. There are also carbide tip
versions, but I haven't actually used one, yet.
http://www.abc.net.au/sydney/stories/s790713.htm
http://www.epinions.com/Stanley_Scoring_Knife_Shop_Tools
http://www.store.yahoo.com/olfablades/5012.html

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by Leon Heller

----- Original Message -----
From: "William Kroyer" <william.kroyer@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4


> This may seem like a silly and basic question but, I've got a bunch of
> 36"X48" sheets
> of FR4 that I need to cut down. Nothing I've tried seems to work. At
> least not for long.
> Initially, I tried just using my jig saw with a metal cutting blade on
> it. I went through 2
> and only got about 1/4" out of each. Then I tried just using my
> router. I killed the bit
> but was able to cut up 1.5 sheets before doing so. Today I picked up
> some 7" cut-off
> wheels for my circular saw. Each wheel cut about 24" each before
> tearing itself free
> of the mount.
>
> Any suggestions? I know for smaller pieces I could probably use a
> paper cutter as a
> cutting shear but I don't know I'm going to get these large pieces cut
> down.

Score it deeply on both sides with a Stanley knife, it will then snap quite
cleanly.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

---
[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility
to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
currently using to read this email. ]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by Stefan Trethan

On Mon, 01 May 2006 03:21:34 +0200, William Kroyer
<william.kroyer@...> wrote:

> I've tried using a 7" cutting wheel on my circular saw. After about
>
> 24" they tear free from the
>
> center mount. I went through 3 of them this morning and made 1.5 cuts.
>
> The last time I cut up
>
> a sheet I used a regular router bit. Needless to say the bit was dead
>
> by the time I was done. I
>
> also tried a 1/8" mill end I had gotten from somewhere locked in my
>
> router. It did a really nice
>
> job for about 12" then snapped. I'm thinking a beefier mill end would
> work.


Any router that isn't carbide will dull real quick.
If you use a carbide one you would probably need automated movement to
prevent it breaking, or one that is very large and wasteful.

A shear will not dull noticeably even after many cuts. I can still cut
paper with the hand shear i used for years. Not with the lever shear, but
that never did cut paper.

ST

[Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by Robert Hedan

Something is seriously wrong with your equipment, safety will become an
issue if your cutting wheels 'tear free'.

I have the same thin cutting wheel (about 1/16" thick), I've cut lots of
PCB, had no problems, and it's still going nicely.

Are you sure you have the proper holding fixture on the grinding wheel? The
grinding wheel must have the same diameter hole as the metal blades that
were on the saw.

Robert
:)



> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
> Envoyé : avril 30 2006 21:22
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4
>
>
> I've tried using a 7" cutting wheel on my circular saw.
> After about
> 24" they tear free from the
> center mount. ...

Re: RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-01 by lcdpublishing

If you have a table saw with a carbide tipped blade, you can make
pretty quick work of cutting it all down to size.

Jig saws, band saws, routers, and circular saws with HSS blades will
dull VERY QUICKLY! Carbide cutting tools are essential.

Using abrasive cut-off wheels probably won't work good long-term.
They will probably load up or gum up with resins or copper and
won't "cut" efficiently for long.

Shears really seem to be the best tool for the job though.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-02 by William Kroyer

I think my problem is that I'm using cheap cutting wheels. They weren't
coming loosse from the saw, the wheel itself was tearing off of the center
metal piece attached to it.

I do have a table saw. Sort of. It's an old one that I got from someone
that needs to be refurbished. It pretty much just needs to be cleaned and
lubricated, then I can add a motor and put it in a table. It's one of the
number of projects that had been put on the back burner but I guess I
should knock that out so I can get back to etching some boards for my
other projects.

lcdpublishing wrote:

If you have a table saw with a carbide tipped blade, you can make
pretty quick work of cutting it all down to size.

Robert Hedan wrote:

>Something is seriously wrong with your equipment, safety will become an
>issue if your cutting wheels 'tear free'.
>
>I have the same thin cutting wheel (about 1/16" thick), I've cut lots of
>PCB, had no problems, and it's still going nicely.
>
>Are you sure you have the proper holding fixture on the grinding wheel? The
>grinding wheel must have the same diameter hole as the metal blades that
>were on the saw.
>
>Robert
>:)
>
>
>
>
>
>>-----Message d'origine-----
>>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
>>Envoy� : avril 30 2006 21:22
>>� : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4
>>
>>
>> I've tried using a 7" cutting wheel on my circular saw.
>>After about
>>24" they tear free from the
>>center mount. ...
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--



<www.kilroysprojects.net>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-02 by Robert Hedan

I'm using a miter saw that runs on 2 tube rails. It's a bit awkward for this
application, I have to jack up the PCB on planks of wood.

Ideally, I'd like to set up a 4" grinder on 2 rails over a table top.

It's better to pass a cutting tool 'over' the PCB, than passing a PCB over a
cutting tool. You can easily adjust for 'brain malfunctions', or when the
cutting line does not line up with the PCB edge.

Robert
:)


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
> Envoyé : mai 1 2006 23:02
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4
>
>
> I think my problem is that I'm using cheap cutting wheels.
> They weren't coming loosse from the saw, the wheel itself was
> tearing off of the center metal piece attached to it.
>
>....

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4

2006-05-02 by William Kroyer

Hmm... Maybe another revision is in store. Perhaps use a carbide blade
in a circular saw that is mounted on some slide rails. Perhaps some
precision
drawer slides? Or maybe use some gas pipe for rails and drill out some
teflon
blocks as slides.

Regardless, some carefull experimentation is probably in order.

Robert Hedan wrote:

>I'm using a miter saw that runs on 2 tube rails. It's a bit awkward for this
>application, I have to jack up the PCB on planks of wood.
>
>Ideally, I'd like to set up a 4" grinder on 2 rails over a table top.
>
>It's better to pass a cutting tool 'over' the PCB, than passing a PCB over a
>cutting tool. You can easily adjust for 'brain malfunctions', or when the
>cutting line does not line up with the PCB edge.
>
>Robert
>:)
>
>
>
>
>>-----Message d'origine-----
>>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de William Kroyer
>>Envoy� : mai 1 2006 23:02
>>� : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE : Cutting FR4
>>
>>
>> I think my problem is that I'm using cheap cutting wheels.
>>They weren't coming loosse from the saw, the wheel itself was
>>tearing off of the center metal piece attached to it.
>>
>>....
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--



<www.kilroysprojects.net>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] refilling spongeless

2006-05-10 by Cristian

At 07:01 PM 4/30/2006, you wrote:
>I have just found a uk site that do a spongless cartirdge for my
>printer (t007) (wished I could find a t009)

Is that site MI6 or what?
Is the link classified?

Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by Steve

What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often times I
need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
or otherwise odd shape.

A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4 into
which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
advice as to how to make such holes?

I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
gadgetry.

Thanks.

Steve

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by Stefan Trethan

Well you could use a router or even a CNC mill.
A x/y table or maybe even just a guide pattern would suffice.

You could also use a punch to make the holes.

Personally i use nibbling pliers like these:
<
http://home.hot.rr.com/bci/images/BattPics/Hampal%20Battery%20Monitor%20015.jpg
>
(people kindly sent them to me from the US).

I also have a different version, more suited for longer cuts:
<http://www.internetprodukte.de/cms/img/Wv_1606.jpg>

There are even motorised versions of nibbling tools, depending on how many
holes and what size you are going to make...

For cutting the outside contour, i use a sheetmetal shear (lever actuated
bench shear).
<http://www.eg-solar.de/bilder/werkzeug/hebelschere.jpg>
People use all sorts of equipment for that purpose, jig saws, circular saws,
tile saws, paper shears, bench shears, tin snips, etc...

ST


On Fri, Oct 10, 2008 at 2:39 PM, Steve <steve65@...> wrote:

> What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often times I
> need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
> or otherwise odd shape.
>
> A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4 into
> which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
> advice as to how to make such holes?
>
> I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
> gadgetry.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by Dale

I personally use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Takes some
practice on cutting with the cutoff wheel without shattering it but
once you get used to it I thing it is the cleanest and easiest.



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Steve <steve65@...> wrote:
>
> What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often
times I
> need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
> or otherwise odd shape.
>
> A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4
into
> which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
> advice as to how to make such holes?
>
> I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
> gadgetry.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by Harvey White

On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 08:39:08 -0400, you wrote:

>What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often times I
>need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
>or otherwise odd shape.
>
>A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4 into
>which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
>advice as to how to make such holes?
>
>I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
>gadgetry.

I use a carbide rasp in a mill. Probably not all that much help to
you.

Harvey

>
>Thanks.
>
>Steve

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by Paul Symansky

I've found that a pair of sharp scissors work well if cutting 1/32" or
thinner boards.





Paul Symansky





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-10 by pcb.easy

I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
93211-1VGA works really well for small (less than 12 square inch)PCBs.
The saw is often on sale in the store for $29. The saw comes with a
cheap blade that is not worth keeping! Go down to Home Depot and buy a
good carbide tip 4" blade, it will last a very long time. Remember
that the dust from cutting fiberglass is DEADLY, wear a good dust
resporator to protect your only set of LUNGS!

Ron

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-11 by Stefan Trethan

That's one reason why i use a shear. The edges aren't quite as clean but
each set of lungs lasts twice as long ;-)

A respirator is only part of the solution, you have to take it off some
time. Best to collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner.

ST

On Fri, Oct 10, 2008 at 11:42 PM, pcb.easy <rpdavidson@...> wrote:

> I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
> 93211-1VGA works really well for small (less than 12 square inch)PCBs.
> The saw is often on sale in the store for $29. The saw comes with a
> cheap blade that is not worth keeping! Go down to Home Depot and buy a
> good carbide tip 4" blade, it will last a very long time. Remember
> that the dust from cutting fiberglass is DEADLY, wear a good dust
> resporator to protect your only set of LUNGS!
>
> Ron
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-11 by Steve

Good caution, Stefan, regarding the dust created when working with FR4,
thank you. And thanks to all for the ideas.

Another source suggested the use of a Dremel rotary tool with the Dremel
router table accessory to cut and shape FR4. A diamond-tipped bit is
used as the router bit. Anyone have thoughts about that technique? Good?
Bad? Smart? Dumb?

Thanks.

Steve

Stefan Trethan wrote:
> That's one reason why i use a shear. The edges aren't quite as clean but
> each set of lungs lasts twice as long ;-)
>
> A respirator is only part of the solution, you have to take it off some
> time. Best to collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner.
>
> ST
>
> On Fri, Oct 10, 2008 at 11:42 PM, pcb.easy <rpdavidson@...> wrote:
>
>
>> I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
>> 93211-1VGA works really well for small (less than 12 square inch)PCBs.
>> The saw is often on sale in the store for $29. The saw comes with a
>> cheap blade that is not worth keeping! Go down to Home Depot and buy a
>> good carbide tip 4" blade, it will last a very long time. Remember
>> that the dust from cutting fiberglass is DEADLY, wear a good dust
>> resporator to protect your only set of LUNGS!
>>
>> Ron
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-11 by Harvey White

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 17:20:36 -0400, you wrote:

>Good caution, Stefan, regarding the dust created when working with FR4,
>thank you. And thanks to all for the ideas.
>
>Another source suggested the use of a Dremel rotary tool with the Dremel
>router table accessory to cut and shape FR4. A diamond-tipped bit is
>used as the router bit. Anyone have thoughts about that technique? Good?
>Bad? Smart? Dumb?

Most of the cheap diamond bits are likely to clog rather quickly IMHO,
and as such, you can wear off the adhesive before you do much to the
bit. I still like the carbide rasp, works well as a mill bit.
Depending on what you want to do and how, it's possible that a small
saw will work well, but the main problem with them is the rapid
dulling of the teeth unless the saw is quite durable.

Harvey

>
>Thanks.
>
>Steve
>
>Stefan Trethan wrote:
>> That's one reason why i use a shear. The edges aren't quite as clean but
>> each set of lungs lasts twice as long ;-)
>>
>> A respirator is only part of the solution, you have to take it off some
>> time. Best to collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner.
>>
>> ST
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 10, 2008 at 11:42 PM, pcb.easy <rpdavidson@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
>>> 93211-1VGA works really well for small (less than 12 square inch)PCBs.
>>> The saw is often on sale in the store for $29. The saw comes with a
>>> cheap blade that is not worth keeping! Go down to Home Depot and buy a
>>> good carbide tip 4" blade, it will last a very long time. Remember
>>> that the dust from cutting fiberglass is DEADLY, wear a good dust
>>> resporator to protect your only set of LUNGS!
>>>
>>> Ron
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-12 by BadHabit

I love Harbor Freight



From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of pcb.easy
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:42 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4



I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
93211-1VGA works really well for small (less than 12 square inch)PCBs.
The saw is often on sale in the store for $29. The saw comes with a
cheap blade that is not worth keeping! Go down to Home Depot and buy a
good carbide tip 4" blade, it will last a very long time. Remember
that the dust from cutting fiberglass is DEADLY, wear a good dust
resporator to protect your only set of LUNGS!

Ron





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-12 by Stefan Trethan

Proxxon makes circular saw blades entirely out of tungsten carbide. Those
should hold up reasonably well.
I've tried one and the cut is perfectly smooth and straight, but the dust
and terrible noise prevent me from using this method.

I've even looked at drilling under water to avoid the vacuum noise and dust.
It seems to work very well, but the water makes it too difficult to aim the
drill exactly. With a CNC setup, that may be a workable option to both drill
and cut the boards.

ST


On Sat, Oct 11, 2008 at 11:53 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

>
> Most of the cheap diamond bits are likely to clog rather quickly IMHO,
> and as such, you can wear off the adhesive before you do much to the
> bit. I still like the carbide rasp, works well as a mill bit.
> Depending on what you want to do and how, it's possible that a small
> saw will work well, but the main problem with them is the rapid
> dulling of the teeth unless the saw is quite durable.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-13 by martin_schoenegg

> I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM

May favorite is Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS 115 with vacc-cleaner-
Set and an Aluminum-Oxide Cut-Off Wheel NO 28 154. This works very
well.

Martin

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-13 by Ground Grunging

I think cutting with a knife is the best way (I use the Dremel only for traces: I remove only the copper, without removing the PCB).
You make one only cut then you put the piece on an iron solid wire (2 mm at least) and press!
 


--- On Fri, 10/10/08, Dale <ssrtech1@...> wrote:

From: Dale <ssrtech1@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 1:00 PM






I personally use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Takes some
practice on cutting with the cutoff wheel without shattering it but
once you get used to it I thing it is the cleanest and easiest.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, Steve <steve65@... > wrote:
>
> What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often
times I
> need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
> or otherwise odd shape.
>
> A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4
into
> which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
> advice as to how to make such holes?
>
> I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
> gadgetry.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve
>


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-13 by Steve

Not sure I follow that . . . you score the PCB with a knife and then
break it over an iron wire?

Ground Grunging wrote:
> I think cutting with a knife is the best way (I use the Dremel only for traces: I remove only the copper, without removing the PCB).
> You make one only cut then you put the piece on an iron solid wire (2 mm at least) and press!
>
>
>
> --- On Fri, 10/10/08, Dale <ssrtech1@...> wrote:
>
> From: Dale <ssrtech1@...>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Cutting FR4
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 1:00 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I personally use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Takes some
> practice on cutting with the cutoff wheel without shattering it but
> once you get used to it I thing it is the cleanest and easiest.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, Steve <steve65@... > wrote:
>
>> What are good ways to cut FR4 to a desired size and shape? Often
>>
> times I
>
>> need square or rectangular shapes, but occasionally I need an offset or
>> or otherwise odd shape.
>>
>> A project I am working on now has a 6in X 8in X 1/16in piece of FR4
>>
> into
>
>> which I need to make several cutouts (holes) that are 1.2in square. Any
>> advice as to how to make such holes?
>>
>> I have the usual hand tools, but am not adverse to acquiring additional
>> gadgetry.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-13 by pcb.easy

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "martin_schoenegg"
<Martin.Schoenegg@...> wrote:
>
> > I have found and use a small 4" table saw from Harbor freight ITEM
>
> May favorite is Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS 115 with vacc-cleaner-
> Set and an Aluminum-Oxide Cut-Off Wheel NO 28 154. This works very
> well.
>
> Martin
>
Martin,
How did you attach a vacuum to your Proxxon KS 115? Is it under the
saw, or is it mounted above the blade? I have been wanting to attach a
vacuum but don't know what is the best/safest method. Pictures?

Be sure to have a good quality filter on the vacuum! If your cutting
FR4 fiberglass some of that dust will pass through those cheap shop
vac filters.

Ron

Re: Cutting FR4

2008-10-13 by martin_schoenegg

> > Proxxon Bench Circular Saw KS 115 with vacc-cleaner-Set
> > and an Aluminum-Oxide Cut-Off Wheel NO 28 154.

> How did you attach a vacuum to your Proxxon KS 115?
> Is it under the saw,

Yes it is. the set is a substitute for the waste door on the side of
the saw. Even without a vac there is very low pollution because the
dust collects itself under the cut-off wheel. The only thing is that
these cutt-off wheels are very sensible. You have to be very careful
not to break them. But with a little training and feeling it makes
very easy and propper work.
And sorry I don't have actual access to this machine but I used it a
lot years ago.

Martin