Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching (links corrected)
2006-02-17 by sbdwag
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2006-02-17 by sbdwag
f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg Regards Dennis Waggoner Is there any way to edit post after they have been posted?
2006-02-17 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 3:22 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching (links corrected) >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > The 'jaggies' on the diagonal tracks aren't right. What software did you use? Leon
2006-02-17 by sbdwag
Leon Actually the jaggies are not that bad they are displayed on the jpg because I resized it down for file size purposes. I Used PSP to convert the image. Even with a few jaggies on very slight angles would that cause any problems cant use antialiasing because of two colors only. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 3:22 PM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching > (links corrected) > > > >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > The 'jaggies' on the diagonal tracks aren't right. What software did you
> use? > > Leon >
2006-02-17 by Stefan Trethan
On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 16:22:36 +0100, sbdwag <sbdwag@...> wrote: > f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > Regards > > Dennis Waggoner Well, i can see you haven't done many layouts, don't get me wrong, it's absolutely fine electrically but for me layouts are a bit of an artform... It's very hard to describe what i think is a nice layout, when i look at something, i just see things i don't like, then i change them. I suppose make things straighter and neater is part of it, but not everything. I'm not at all artistic otherwise, i can't draw or paint at all, i don't like most music, actually i really dislike art (at least what they say is art these days), but when looking at a layout i will quickly spot stuff i dislike, and usually work on it until everything it tolerable to my eye. There are two technical things i would advise: Make the small round pads larger, it will be hard to drill and solder as it is. Perhaps increase the isolation distance to the ground plane if you are new to transfers. You can of course use the board, and there is really nothing else i can suggest to change since i would have made almost any trace and much of the placement differently, but that does not matter. If it is electrically OK and looks right for you it's perfect. If you want to tidy it up some more, that's allright too ;-) GO for it! > Is there any way to edit post after they have been posted? Not really, since it has gone out per mail, and most people will appreciate it very much that a mail they received can't be changed any more. Don't worry about it. ST
2006-02-17 by Codesuidae
Leon Heller wrote: > From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> > > >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > The 'jaggies' on the diagonal tracks aren't right. What software did you > use? Those do look a little odd. The would be improved substantially by sticking to horizontal, vertical and 45deg lines. I'd move C1 and C2 so they are symmetrically placed, and route the traces a bit differently, but thats purely aesthetic. Dave K
2006-02-17 by sbdwag
Leon Actually I could have arrainged the pcb to look very neat and symmetrical, similar to the schmatic (link below) but I was looking for compactness primarly. http:/www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pssch.jpg Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Codesuidae <codesuidae@...> wrote: > > Leon Heller wrote: > > > From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> > > > > >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > > > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > > > > The 'jaggies' on the diagonal tracks aren't right. What software did you
> > use? > > Those do look a little odd. The would be improved substantially by > sticking to horizontal, vertical and 45deg lines. > > I'd move C1 and C2 so they are symmetrically placed, and route the > traces a bit differently, but thats purely aesthetic. > > Dave K >
2006-02-17 by sbdwag
Stefan Thanks for the tips on the solder pads. Unless I create my own library objects is there any easy way to increase the pad size/hole size in Eagle. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...> wrote: > > On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 16:22:36 +0100, sbdwag <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > > f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > > > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > > > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > > > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > > > Regards > > > > Dennis Waggoner > > Well, i can see you haven't done many layouts, don't get me wrong, it's > absolutely fine electrically but for me layouts are a bit of an artform... > It's very hard to describe what i think is a nice layout, when i look at > something, i just see things i don't like, then i change them. I suppose > make things straighter and neater is part of it, but not everything. I'm > not at all artistic otherwise, i can't draw or paint at all, i don't like > most music, actually i really dislike art (at least what they say is art > these days), but when looking at a layout i will quickly spot stuff i > dislike, and usually work on it until everything it tolerable to my eye. > > There are two technical things i would advise: > Make the small round pads larger, it will be hard to drill and solder as > it is. > Perhaps increase the isolation distance to the ground plane if you are new > to transfers. > > You can of course use the board, and there is really nothing else i can > suggest to change since i would have made almost any trace and much of the > placement differently, but that does not matter. If it is electrically OK > and looks right for you it's perfect. If you want to tidy it up some more,
> that's allright too ;-) > > GO for it! > > > Is there any way to edit post after they have been posted? > > Not really, since it has gone out per mail, and most people will > appreciate it very much that a mail they received can't be changed any > more. Don't worry about it. > > ST >
2006-02-17 by Wayne Topa
sbdwag(sbdwag@...) is reported to have said: > f anyone has time please critique my first attempt at producing a > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" board with components > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan on using. > > Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg Only one thing stands out ping: unknown host http://www.wagsterstuff.com/ Wayne
2006-02-17 by dl5012
Hi Dennis, I've found making your own components in Eagle to be quite awkward; whereas doing that in ExpressPCB is a piece of cake. What I do to make pads larger is I just route over them with a wide trace. For a typical resistor pad, I use 40 mils; set the grid to a small enough value where I can extend the pad by routing from one side of the hole to the other. I didn't realize Eagle had an option to create a ground plane. Is the space to other features controllable? What version are you using? I'm using the Lite version (probably around 4.13) and am to "cheap" to pay for the full featured version. When I need a larger board than the lite version allows, I just place vias and route manually. I usually route manually anyway. I'm a better router than Eagle... As Stefan mentioned, there's some artistic aspect to board layout. I like to keep traces on multiples of 45 degree angles and don't push spaces or feature sizes so the boards are easy to transfer, etch, and drill. Take a look at the first picture in my album (dl5012). That was drawn with Eagle, but I just placed pads and routed manually. That board is actually a bad example of upsizing pads for ease of drilling. That was my prototype and I fixed the pad sizes in rev1. Regards, Dennis --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > Stefan > > Thanks for the tips on the solder pads. Unless I create my own library
> objects is there any easy way to increase the pad size/hole size in > Eagle. > > Regards > Dennis Waggoner
2006-02-17 by Stefan Trethan
On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 17:36:25 +0100, sbdwag <sbdwag@...> wrote: > Stefan > > > Thanks for the tips on the solder pads. Unless I create my own library > > objects is there any easy way to increase the pad size/hole size in > > Eagle. > > > Regards > > Dennis Waggoner I never got that far with eagle. You did well actually getting a pcb finished, must be a patient man ;-) ST
2006-02-17 by sbdwag
Dennis Thanks again. Actually the ground plane was created in paint shop pro. I just created a negative image. Made a selection set with magic wand then used the command selection-modify-contract to place a copper removed trace around the circuit. Then just made the ground trace copper removed area black. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@...> wrote:
> > Hi Dennis, > > I've found making your own components in Eagle to be quite awkward; > whereas doing that in ExpressPCB is a piece of cake. > > What I do to make pads larger is I just route over them with a wide > trace. For a typical resistor pad, I use 40 mils; set the grid to a > small enough value where I can extend the pad by routing from one side > of the hole to the other. > > I didn't realize Eagle had an option to create a ground plane. Is the > space to other features controllable? What version are you using? > I'm using the Lite version (probably around 4.13) and am to "cheap" to > pay for the full featured version. When I need a larger board than > the lite version allows, I just place vias and route manually. I > usually route manually anyway. I'm a better router than Eagle... > > As Stefan mentioned, there's some artistic aspect to board layout. I > like to keep traces on multiples of 45 degree angles and don't push > spaces or feature sizes so the boards are easy to transfer, etch, and > drill. Take a look at the first picture in my album (dl5012). That > was drawn with Eagle, but I just placed pads and routed manually. > That board is actually a bad example of upsizing pads for ease of > drilling. That was my prototype and I fixed the pad sizes in rev1. > > Regards, > Dennis > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@> wrote: > > > > Stefan > > > > Thanks for the tips on the solder pads. Unless I create my own > library > > objects is there any easy way to increase the pad size/hole size in > > Eagle. > > > > Regards > > Dennis Waggoner >
2006-02-17 by Mycroft2152
Hi Dennis, To change the size of the pad in EAGLE. Click on EDIT - CHANGE - DIAMETER. Select the size you want then click on the pad itself. That will do it. note: If you want to change the hole size do the same execept swap DRILL dor Diameter. Hope that helps. TANSTAAFL! Myc PS, you really should check out DipTrace. It's so much easier. :) --- sbdwag <sbdwag@...> wrote: > Stefan > > Thanks for the tips on the solder pads. Unless I > create my own library > objects is there any easy way to increase the pad > size/hole size in > Eagle. > > Regards > Dennis Waggoner > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan > Trethan" > <stefan_trethan@...> wrote: > > > > On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 16:22:36 +0100, sbdwag > <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > > > > f anyone has time please critique my first > attempt at producing a > > > > > > etched pcb board. Below are jpegs of the 2x3" > board with components > > > > > > and also a picture of the tranfer image I plan > on using. > > > > > > > > > Does anything stand out? All comments are > appreciated. > > > > > > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > > > > > > Regards > > > > > > Dennis Waggoner > > > > Well, i can see you haven't done many layouts, > don't get me wrong, > it's > > absolutely fine electrically but for me layouts > are a bit of an > artform... > > It's very hard to describe what i think is a nice > layout, when i > look at > > something, i just see things i don't like, then i > change them. I > suppose > > make things straighter and neater is part of it, > but not everything. > I'm > > not at all artistic otherwise, i can't draw or > paint at all, i don't > like > > most music, actually i really dislike art (at > least what they say is > art > > these days), but when looking at a layout i will > quickly spot stuff i > > dislike, and usually work on it until everything > it tolerable to my eye. > > > > There are two technical things i would advise: > > Make the small round pads larger, it will be hard > to drill and > solder as > > it is. > > Perhaps increase the isolation distance to the > ground plane if you > are new > > to transfers. > > > > You can of course use the board, and there is > really nothing else i > can > > suggest to change since i would have made almost > any trace and much > of the > > placement differently, but that does not matter. > If it is > electrically OK > > and looks right for you it's perfect. If you want > to tidy it up some > more, > > that's allright too ;-) > > > > GO for it! > > > > > Is there any way to edit post after they have > been posted? > > > > Not really, since it has gone out per mail, and > most people will > > appreciate it very much that a mail they received > can't be changed any > > more. Don't worry about it. > > > > ST > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
2006-02-18 by Len Warner
At 15:22 06/02/17, sbdwag wrote: >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt<snip> >Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg I don't mind the layout not being perfectly symmetrical. What I don't understand is why the negative output is a model of good decoupling and the positive output is quite the contrary. On the negative side, capacitors C6, C8 are directly on the output track and on a large common ground island. On the positive side, capacitors C5, C7 are each on a stub track off the output track and they are on separate ground areas. These are split by the hooked track which runs between the pads of both capacitors though there seems no reason why it should since there is a direct path available. Also close to having isolated copper fill islands there too. As part of this layout style, three tracks seem to run to a star point at the diode when what should happen is that the output current track visit each decoupling capacitor, thus eliminating the stub tracks. Caps C10, C9 could be closer to their Adjust pins, too. On the input side reservior caps C1, C2 are on stubs: the rectifier output should be taken to the reservior then the reservoir to the regulator Input. Wouldn't hurt to have C3, C4 on the current path too but priority is to get them as close as possible to their Input pins because they help guarantee regulator stability. Eliminate stubs, shorten current paths, minimize current loop areas. Regards. Len Warner -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 06/02/17
2006-02-19 by sbdwag
Len I am really just a grasshopper but the power supply circuit filters well and is very stable. http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pssch.jpg http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pspeg.jpg Thanks for your imput. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Len Warner <yahoo@...> wrote: > > At 15:22 06/02/17, sbdwag wrote: > > >f anyone has time please critique my first attempt<snip> > >Does anything stand out? All comments are appreciated. > > > >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > I don't mind the layout not being perfectly symmetrical. > > What I don't understand is why the negative output is > a model of good decoupling and the positive output > is quite the contrary. > > On the negative side, capacitors C6, C8 are directly on the > output track and on a large common ground island. > > On the positive side, capacitors C5, C7 are each on a stub > track off the output track and they are on separate ground areas. > These are split by the hooked track which runs between the > pads of both capacitors though there seems no reason why > it should since there is a direct path available. > > Also close to having isolated copper fill islands there too. > > As part of this layout style, three tracks seem to run to > a star point at the diode when what should happen is > that the output current track visit each decoupling > capacitor, thus eliminating the stub tracks. > > Caps C10, C9 could be closer to their Adjust pins, too. > > On the input side reservior caps C1, C2 are on stubs: > the rectifier output should be taken to the reservior > then the reservoir to the regulator Input. > > Wouldn't hurt to have C3, C4 on the current path too > but priority is to get them as close as possible to their > Input pins because they help guarantee regulator stability. > > Eliminate stubs, shorten current paths, minimize current loop areas. > > > Regards. Len Warner > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 06/02/17 >
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > Len > > I am really just a grasshopper but the power supply circuit filters > well and is very stable. > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pssch.jpg > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pspeg.jpg A point you might keep in mind is that big electrolytic capacitors have quite a bit of internal inductance, so it isn't so important that they have very little trace length between them and something that needs to be close to capacitance. Getting them close won't help, much. But the regulators have best stability when the three small capacitors connected to them all hit ground at the same node, and when there is very low trace inductance between them and the regulator. So the .22, 10 and 1 uf caps should be tucked in as close to the regulators as you can fit them, with all three sharing a very short ground branch. Since the big electrolytics can be further away and still work fine, and since they are temperature sensitive and they generate internal heat from ripple current, and the regulators get hot, it is a good idea to have them located a fair distance from the regulators, and with a bit of air space all around to keep them cool.
2006-02-19 by sbdwag
Im curious how do big capacitors have internal inductance. If they have inductance wouldnt that cancel some of the capitance that they have? Are you talking about the leakage current? This would be the only thing that passed dc. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...> wrote: > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@> wrote: > > > > Len > > > > I am really just a grasshopper but the power supply circuit filters > > well and is very stable. > > > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pssch.jpg > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pspeg.jpg > > A point you might keep in mind is that big electrolytic capacitors > have quite a bit of internal inductance, so it isn't so important that > they have very little trace length between them and something that > needs to be close to capacitance. Getting them close won't help, much.
> > But the regulators have best stability when the three small capacitors > connected to them all hit ground at the same node, and when there is > very low trace inductance between them and the regulator. So the .22, > 10 and 1 uf caps should be tucked in as close to the regulators as you > can fit them, with all three sharing a very short ground branch. > > Since the big electrolytics can be further away and still work fine, > and since they are temperature sensitive and they generate internal > heat from ripple current, and the regulators get hot, it is a good > idea to have them located a fair distance from the regulators, and > with a bit of air space all around to keep them cool. >
2006-02-19 by Mike Young
Actually, it's the high ESR, which masks the lead and trace inductance. Or something like that. I'm sure others will correct this quickly if it's the least bit misleading or oversimplifying. The rule of thumb is one big, high ESR capacitor per board, and one low ESR cap for each power/ground pair per device. It's the small ones that need special care in layout. ----- Original Message ----- From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:37 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching (links corrected)
> Im curious how do big capacitors have internal inductance. If they > have inductance wouldnt that cancel some of the capitance that they > have? Are you talking about the leakage current? This would be the > only thing that passed dc.
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > Im curious how do big capacitors have internal inductance. If they > have inductance wouldnt that cancel some of the capitance that they > have? Are you talking about the leakage current? This would be the > only thing that passed dc. It has to do with how big electrolytics are constructed. One "plate" of the capacitor is a conductive liquid (the electrolyte that gives the type its name). But the other plate is a roll of thin aluminum foil with a connection to the capacitor pin. The surface of the aluminum is oxidized by an electrolytic process that coats every bit with a uniform layer of insulation, after the metal is made very porous so it has lots of surface. Current can get to every part of the oxide through the electrolyte by a fairly direct path (though there is an usually an unoxidized roll of foil sitting in the liquid to lower the liquid's resistance, and that adds a little inductance). But current gets to the metal side of the oxide by travelling around the roll of foil (many turns to get to the far end). And that generates a magnetic field and produces inductance in series with the capacitor. So if the current may have to travel through feet of rolled up foil, inside the capacitor, it makes little sense to worry about millimeters of trace, in series, outside the capacitor. http://www.bartleby.com/images/A4images/A4capaci.jpg Good high quality film capacitors also have rolls of foil in them (or rolls of plastic film with metalization coated on them). But the edge of the foil roll is coated with metal to short the coil of the roll, all together, so no current has to go round in circles to get in and out. Here are pictures of these well designed extended foil rolled capacitors: http://www.parallax.com/images/prod_gif/201-01030.gif http://www.prestige.com.tw/pics/16b.jpg Some of the lowest inductance designs have rectangular stacks of metal coated film, with the opposite ends of the stack (where the metal protrudes) coated with more metal and wires bonded on. http://akamai.globalsources.com.edgesuite.net/f/593/3445/5d/pdt.static.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/THUMB/669/T1001155669.jpg http://img.alibaba.com/photo/50332846/Sub_Miniature_Metalized_Polyester_Film_Capacitors.summ.jpg Small extended foil rolled capacitors are often indistinguishable from stacked film capacitors, without a dissection. The cheap and crappy film capacitors have a roll made of two layers of foil and two layers of film with the wires connected to the inner ends of the two metal layers (because production is cheap). These are usually dark green, for some reason (called "Greenies" with a curled lip), though dark red is also a common color. They also have lots of series inductance, even though the two currents travel round the roll in oppposite directions. They are, in effect a rolled up transmission line. You can recognize these (and avoid them) by the shape that has the roll with a vertical axis (before it is squashed flat) with the two wires coming out of the center of the roll. They look a lot like extended foil rolled capacitors with radial leads, except that the leads are closer to the center(inside the roll). Look at these picture and burn them into your brain like you do poison ivy leaves: http://www.hosfelt.com/media/15417.jpg http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/picture/condb.jpg If you want more details, here is a link to a very good capacitor site: http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/index.html
2006-02-19 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:37 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching (links corrected) > Im curious how do big capacitors have internal inductance. If they > have inductance wouldnt that cancel some of the capitance that they > have? Are you talking about the leakage current? This would be the > only thing that passed dc. The electrodes are in the form of sheets that are rolled up. That sort of construction is bound to result in a lot of inductance. Leon -- Leon Heller, G1HSM leon.heller@... http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
2006-02-19 by sbdwag
What magnitude of inductance,uh,mh would a 2200uf cap have. Regards Dennis Waggoner --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:37 AM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching > (links corrected) > > > > Im curious how do big capacitors have internal inductance. If they > > have inductance wouldnt that cancel some of the capitance that they > > have? Are you talking about the leakage current? This would be the > > only thing that passed dc. > > The electrodes are in the form of sheets that are rolled up. That sort of
> construction is bound to result in a lot of inductance. > > Leon > -- > Leon Heller, G1HSM > leon.heller@... > http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller >
2006-02-19 by Mycroft2152
Hi Dennis, As long as the board works for you, that is all that matters. Ignore the criticism. Any pcb is better than a rat's nest of wires. If you are going to sell it, there are technical aspects that should be considered. The critism of the layout, is just normal 'artsy' comments. PCB layouts are definitely more of an art than a science, and everyone has a different opinion of what looks best. Most people are just used to the grid-like running of the tracks, which is easiest for manufacturing. TANSTAAFL! Myc --- sbdwag <sbdwag@...> wrote: > Len > > I am really just a grasshopper but the power supply > circuit filters > well and is very stable. > > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pssch.jpg > http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/pspeg.jpg > > Thanks for your imput. > > Regards > Dennis Waggoner > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Len Warner > <yahoo@...> wrote: > > > > At 15:22 06/02/17, sbdwag wrote: > > > > >f anyone has time please critique my first > attempt<snip> > > >Does anything stand out? All comments are > appreciated. > > > > > >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psbd.jpg > > >http://www.wagsterstuff.com/photos/psobj.jpg > > > > I don't mind the layout not being perfectly > symmetrical. > > > > What I don't understand is why the negative output > is > > a model of good decoupling and the positive output > > is quite the contrary. > > > > On the negative side, capacitors C6, C8 are > directly on the > > output track and on a large common ground island. > > > > On the positive side, capacitors C5, C7 are each > on a stub > > track off the output track and they are on > separate ground areas. > > These are split by the hooked track which runs > between the > > pads of both capacitors though there seems no > reason why > > it should since there is a direct path available. > > > > Also close to having isolated copper fill islands > there too. > > > > As part of this layout style, three tracks seem to > run to > > a star point at the diode when what should happen > is > > that the output current track visit each > decoupling > > capacitor, thus eliminating the stub tracks. > > > > Caps C10, C9 could be closer to their Adjust pins, > too. > > > > On the input side reservior caps C1, C2 are on > stubs: > > the rectifier output should be taken to the > reservior > > then the reservoir to the regulator Input. > > > > Wouldn't hurt to have C3, C4 on the current path > too > > but priority is to get them as close as possible > to their > > Input pins because they help guarantee regulator > stability. > > > > Eliminate stubs, shorten current paths, minimize > current loop areas. > > > > > > Regards. Len Warner > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - > Release Date: > 06/02/17 > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
2006-02-19 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 9:59 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Please critique my first attempt at pcb etching (links corrected) > What magnitude of inductance,uh,mh would a 2200uf cap have. You'd have to look at the specification or measure it. Leon
2006-02-19 by kilocycles
John, Thanks for the info in your post. It's now in my "Design" folder on my hard drive. Your explanation provides a good example of why we don't use film capacitors at RF, only at audio frequencies. Cheers, Ted --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...> wrote: ---snip--- > Good high quality film capacitors also have rolls of foil in them (or > rolls of plastic film with metalization coated on them). But the edge > of the foil roll is coated with metal to short the coil of the roll, > all together, so no current has to go round in circles to get in and > out. Here are pictures of these well designed extended foil rolled > capacitors: > http://www.parallax.com/images/prod_gif/201-01030.gif > http://www.prestige.com.tw/pics/16b.jpg > > Some of the lowest inductance designs have rectangular stacks of metal > coated film, with the opposite ends of the stack (where the metal > protrudes) coated with more metal and wires bonded on. > http://akamai.globalsources.com.edgesuite.net/f/593/3445/5d/pdt.static.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/THUMB/669/T1001155669.jpg > http://img.alibaba.com/photo/50332846/Sub_Miniature_Metalized_Polyester_Film_Capacitors.summ.jpg
> > Small extended foil rolled capacitors are often indistinguishable from > stacked film capacitors, without a dissection. > > The cheap and crappy film capacitors have a roll made of two layers of > foil and two layers of film with the wires connected to the inner ends > of the two metal layers (because production is cheap). These are > usually dark green, for some reason (called "Greenies" with a curled > lip), though dark red is also a common color. They also have lots of > series inductance, even though the two currents travel round the roll > in oppposite directions. They are, in effect a rolled up transmission > line. You can recognize these (and avoid them) by the shape that has > the roll with a vertical axis (before it is squashed flat) with the > two wires coming out of the center of the roll. They look a lot like > extended foil rolled capacitors with radial leads, except that the > leads are closer to the center(inside the roll). Look at these > picture and burn them into your brain like you do poison ivy leaves: > http://www.hosfelt.com/media/15417.jpg > http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/picture/condb.jpg > > If you want more details, here is a link to a very good capacitor site: > http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/index.html >
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" <kilocycles@...> wrote: > > John, > Thanks for the info in your post. It's now in my "Design" folder on > my hard drive. You are welcome. > Your explanation provides a good example of why we don't use film > capacitors at RF, only at audio frequencies. (snip) Actually, film capcitors are often used in RF design. But details of construction methods and dielectric properties count for a lot. Every commercial capacitor is a compromise between lots of competing factors. None is perfect and free and minimal size. Best design practice involves getting to know the relative costs and imperfections of each kind of dielectric and construction method so you can select the best overall compromise for any given application.
2006-02-19 by alan00463
Thanks, John, for your comments on series inductance in capacitors. And warnings on which ones to watch out for. And for the pics. Very helpful!
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> wrote: > > What magnitude of inductance,uh,mh would a 2200uf cap have. It is a value that manufacturers are reluctant to put on their data sheets. But integer microhenries is a fair guess for a 2200uF, 35 volt electrolytic. You have to measure the self resonant frequency of the capacitor to find out. 2*Pi*F=1/sqrt(L*C) The inductance of copper PCB traces in on the order of .3 to .6 microhenrys per foot. So struggling to eliminate an inch of trace (.05 uHy of trace inductance) between an electrolytic capacitor and another component is pointless. But since the internal inductance of a ceramic or well designed film capacitor is in the nano henries, an inch of trace can make a difference for them.
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote: (snip) > The critism of the layout, is just normal 'artsy' > comments. PCB layouts are definitely more of an art > than a science, and everyone has a different opinion > of what looks best. (snip) When I look for beauty or uglyness in a PCB design, I try to visualize the fields surrounding the traces and heat generated in them. Traces carrying high currents generate large magnetic fields that can affect other traces or components. The current also produces voltage drop and heat in those traces. Traces carrying currents with a high rate or change generate voltages in nearby conductors and components, produce inductiove voltage drops, and bud off photons. Traces that carry high voltage create electric fields and push leakage currents. Traces with voltage that has a high rate of change, capacitively couple to nearby traces and bud off photons. Sensitive nodes in the circuit get unwanted signals from the above nodes and paths. A beautiful board can have all these things happening, but still functions well because the layout limits the unwanted effects.
2006-02-19 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alan00463" <alan00463@...> wrote: > > Thanks, John, for your comments on series inductance in capacitors. > And warnings on which ones to watch out for. And for the pics. > Very helpful! You are welcome. I hope I didn't overstate the horrors of "greenies". They are made and sold in great numbers because there are many applications that do not demand a really good capacitor, and they are certainly cheap. But for the hobbyist, who's time and frustration will outweigh the cost of components, and who is not experienced in weighing the pros and cons of every component choice, they are trouble waiting to happen.
2006-02-19 by Russell Shaw
John Popelish wrote: > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote: > (snip) > >>The critism of the layout, is just normal 'artsy' >>comments. PCB layouts are definitely more of an art >>than a science, and everyone has a different opinion >>of what looks best. > > (snip) > > When I look for beauty or uglyness in a PCB design, I try to visualize > the fields surrounding the traces and heat generated in them. Traces > carrying high currents generate large magnetic fields that can affect > other traces or components. The current also produces voltage drop > and heat in those traces. Traces carrying currents with a high rate > or change generate voltages in nearby conductors and components, > produce inductiove voltage drops, and bud off photons. Traces that > carry high voltage create electric fields and push leakage currents. > Traces with voltage that has a high rate of change, capacitively > couple to nearby traces and bud off photons. Sensitive nodes in the > circuit get unwanted signals from the above nodes and paths. That is one thing most "designers" don't do enough of, if at all. By visualizing the voltages, currents, and EM fields in 3D, you can get just about any high-power/high-frequency pcb to work first time. > A beautiful board can have all these things happening, but still > functions well because the layout limits the unwanted effects.
2006-02-20 by kilocycles
John, Which type of film capacitors would be used at RF frequencies (say, 1.8 to 30 MHz)? I recently had the opposite problem...finding a low value 150 pF cap to use in an audio bandpass filter circuit in an Op Amp (NE5532 used as the audio final amp). I had to use a silver mica, figuring it would be better than a ceramic disc. I've used foil caps, polystyrene ones, in VFO circuits for their thermal stability, but I'm interested to get your comments on other types of "plastic" film at these frequencies. Generally I use ceramic, monolythic or multilayer ceramic for bypassing, ceramic NP0/C0G in temperature-frequency sensitive circuits, in addition to the polystyrene, and dipped silver mica in transmitter output filters at higher power (1 watt and above). I appreciate your input, Ted --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...> wrote:
> You are welcome. > > > Your explanation provides a good example of why we don't use film > > capacitors at RF, only at audio frequencies. > (snip) > > Actually, film capcitors are often used in RF design. But details of > construction methods and dielectric properties count for a lot. Every > commercial capacitor is a compromise between lots of competing > factors. None is perfect and free and minimal size. Best design > practice involves getting to know the relative costs and imperfections > of each kind of dielectric and construction method so you can select > the best overall compromise for any given application.
2006-02-21 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "kilocycles" <kilocycles@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:50 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Film Caps at RF frequencies > John, > Which type of film capacitors would be used at RF frequencies (say, > 1.8 to 30 MHz)? I recently had the opposite problem...finding a low > value 150 pF cap to use in an audio bandpass filter circuit in an Op > Amp (NE5532 used as the audio final amp). I had to use a silver mica, > figuring it would be better than a ceramic disc. > > I've used foil caps, polystyrene ones, in VFO circuits for their > thermal stability, but I'm interested to get your comments on other > types of "plastic" film at these frequencies. Generally I use > ceramic, monolythic or multilayer ceramic for bypassing, ceramic > NP0/C0G in temperature-frequency sensitive circuits, in addition to > the polystyrene, and dipped silver mica in transmitter output filters > at higher power (1 watt and above). Silver mica are difficult to find and very expensive. Film capacitors aren't very suitable for RF, I use low-K ceramic plate capacitors, like these: < http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010&CTL_CAT_CODE=30151&STK_PROD_CODE=M32340&XPAGENO=1 > Leon
2006-02-21 by kilocycles
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "kilocycles" <kilocycles@...> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:50 PM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Film Caps at RF frequencies ---snip--- > Silver mica are difficult to find and very expensive. Film capacitors aren't > very suitable for RF, I use low-K ceramic plate capacitors, like these: http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010&CTL_CAT_CODE=30151&STK_PROD_CODE=M32340&XPAGENO=1 > Leon Leon, Boy, I haven't seen anything like those over here. SM caps on the retail market are typically $.50 apiece and above, but I get them from a local surplus shop unless I need a specific value. Some monolythic ceramics are available in temperature-compensated values, typically NP0 and N750, but not the full range of the plate capacitors listed in the data sheet, and certainly not 2% tolerance! Mostly, the full range (2 pF on up) are NP0/C0G ceramic disc. They are available in values that don't follow the E6 or E12 standard, such as 5, 8, 9, 10 pF, and they aren't very expensive. I am building the LCR meter from Everyday Pracical Electronics. Originally, the only 1% cap (can't recall the required value at the moment; .1 uF possibly) I could find was a fairly large Mylar axial that would have been a problem trying to fit to the PCB, but I recently found a monolythic replacement that is very small. I guess this is another example of the differences in availability of types of components in the US and the UK and Europe. For another example, toroids are very widely used here in homebrewing, and Toko inductors are not used much. Our suppliers have only limited values of those, none of which match what I see in RSGB publications and designs on the web. 73/72, Ted KX4OM
2006-02-21 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" <kilocycles@...> wrote: > Which type of film capacitors would be used at RF frequencies (say, > 1.8 to 30 MHz)? At the low end of that range many film caps are fine, as long as they are low inductance construction. At the top and of that frequency range, I think mylar film (the most common and lowest cost film caps) start to show the losses of mylar, and polystyrene, polypropylene, and teflon are better, but larger and more costly. And at all frequencies, these dielectrics have better temperature stability. So the big concerns for film (and really, for any dielectric) capacitors for RF applications is the losses and stability of the dielectric, and the inductance and series resistance of the construction. To compare a pair of cases, fairly, you realy need to pour over the data sheets. If the data sheet doesn't mention dielectric losses, stability, inductance or resistance, assume the news is not good or do your own testing. > I recently had the opposite problem...finding a low > value 150 pF cap to use in an audio bandpass filter circuit in an Op > Amp (NE5532 used as the audio final amp). I had to use a silver mica, > figuring it would be better than a ceramic disc. Ceramic covers a lot of variation. The low K (NPO COG) dielectric is low loss and high stability, as well as having capacitance that is pretty stable with respect to applied voltage. The high K types (Z5U Y5V) are not only variable with temperature and voltage, but loose capacitance over time and often have high resistivity metalization (in the multi layer, monolythic types). The middle K types (X5R X7R) are intermediate in character (pretty good, pretty cheap and pretty small). I have given up on the really high K types, and choose between the low k and mid K types, depending on capacitance and loss requirements. Good silver micas are very good, and very expensive. The cheapest micas have the annoying characteristic of producing small charge steps when voltage is applied. It is a very specific noise for the type. I think it has to do with the mica being made up of many distinct layers, and charge may get trapped in or released from any given layer.
2006-02-21 by kilocycles
John, Now we're getting there. I went to Mouser's site and checked on a capacitor I typically buy for construction of crystal filters in transmitters and receivers, the Kemet Golden Max series, which is monolythic ceramic, NP0/C0G. Lately I've used them in VFOs as well. I linked to the data sheets, and while they didn't specify K, Q or ESR, they did specify dissipation factor, which is the inverse of Q and therefore has ESR in its equation (I looked at another site for that). So, now when an application specifies high Q for a cap, I simply look at its dissipation factor. It's odd I didn't know that; I've used Q in other applications, obviously inductors, and in crystals themselves, but I'd just never thought about it in terms of caps. I guess after close to 40 years in electronics, I haven't got all the dumbness out yet! Thanks, Ted --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...> wrote: ---snip--- > At the low end of that range many film caps are fine, as long as they > are low inductance construction. At the top and of that frequency > range, I think mylar film (the most common and lowest cost film caps) > start to show the losses of mylar, and polystyrene, polypropylene, and > teflon are better, but larger and more costly. And at all > frequencies, these dielectrics have better temperature stability. > So the big concerns for film (and really, for any dielectric) > capacitors for RF applications is the losses and stability of the > dielectric, and the inductance and series resistance of the > construction. To compare a pair of cases, fairly, you realy need to > pour over the data sheets. If the data sheet doesn't mention > dielectric losses, stability, inductance or resistance, assume the > news is not good or do your own testing. > ---snip---
> > Ceramic covers a lot of variation. The low K (NPO COG) dielectric is > low loss and high stability, as well as having capacitance that is > pretty stable with respect to applied voltage. The high K types (Z5U > Y5V) are not only variable with temperature and voltage, but loose > capacitance over time and often have high resistivity metalization (in > the multi layer, monolythic types). The middle K types (X5R X7R) are > intermediate in character (pretty good, pretty cheap and pretty > small). I have given up on the really high K types, and choose > between the low k and mid K types, depending on capacitance and loss > requirements. > > Good silver micas are very good, and very expensive. The cheapest > micas have the annoying characteristic of producing small charge steps > when voltage is applied. It is a very specific noise for the type. I > think it has to do with the mica being made up of many distinct > layers, and charge may get trapped in or released from any given layer. >
2006-02-21 by John Popelish
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kilocycles" <kilocycles@...> wrote: > > John, > Now we're getting there. I went to Mouser's site and checked on a > capacitor I typically buy for construction of crystal filters in > transmitters and receivers, the Kemet Golden Max series, which is > monolythic ceramic, NP0/C0G. Lately I've used them in VFOs as well. > > I linked to the data sheets, and while they didn't specify K, Q or > ESR, they did specify dissipation factor, which is the inverse of Q > and therefore has ESR in its equation (I looked at another site for > that). So, now when an application specifies high Q for a cap, I > simply look at its dissipation factor. It's odd I didn't know that; > I've used Q in other applications, obviously inductors, and in > crystals themselves, but I'd just never thought about it in terms of caps. > > I guess after close to 40 years in electronics, I haven't got all the > dumbness out yet! > > Thanks, > Ted Who does? I have managed to shed a little by trying to answer questions for others, about things I should have understood. I foten find that I am vague about the details, till I try to formulate explanations. Then I have to actually put the facts together. Thanks for your comments on dissipation factor and capacitor data sheets. Learning how to mine all the useful info from data sheets is an art.
2006-02-21 by Codesuidae
John, Just wanted to thank you for writing this detailed message, and for the link to the CapSite page. Great information, and entertaining to read about the 'greenies', I just stripped several old monitors for parts before taking them for waste disposal, and considered pulling a bunch of those. Glad I pitched them now :) Dave K John Popelish wrote: > It has to do with how big electrolytics are constructed. One "plate" > of the capacitor is a conductive liquid (the electrolyte that gives > the type its name). But the other plate is a roll of thin aluminum > foil with a connection to the capacitor pin. The surface of the > aluminum is oxidized by an electrolytic process that coats every bit > with a uniform layer of insulation, after the metal is made very > porous so it has lots of surface. [snip]