RE: Guide for inkjet print settings for opaque positives
2013-11-02 by <beefyzee@...>
Thanks for the input lads. I ve also seen these opaque inks on Ebay (cheap too) that supposedly will work with nearly all inkjet printers. I m afraid I paid
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2013-11-02 by <beefyzee@...>
Thanks for the input lads. I ve also seen these opaque inks on Ebay (cheap too) that supposedly will work with nearly all inkjet printers. I m afraid I paid
2013-11-02 by Jack Schmidling
... That s great but it seems like the majority of beginners are having problems with the iron. As they not only can work well but usually require zero
2013-11-02 by Russell Shaw
... I m still using an Epson Stylus 400 (10+ years old) with cheap refill dye ink because the genuine cartridges are discontinued. After upgrading the PC
2013-11-01 by James
... I ve seen one of the vendors I buy from in China sometimes (specialises in DIY PCB stuff) selling a dye based ink for inkjets specifically for this purpose
2013-11-01 by Boman33
Keith, I have been down that road with the same goals as you with the additional desire for also high print resolution. Take a look at my write-up:
2013-11-01 by <beefyzee@...>
Well my head is spinning in my quest for finding the ultimate print method for getting a solid opaque print for the UV method of making PCBs. The more I read
2013-11-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2013-11-01 by Mark Schoonover
Instead of a laminator which can also be variable especially when the rollers start to wear out, or variations during insertion. To solve these issues I came
2013-11-01 by Harvey White
... The laminator I got cost about 30 to 40 USD. It has no temperature setting. It seems to work well, 144 pin 0.5mm spacing FPGAs with 10/10 spacing. ...
2013-10-31 by Jack Schmidling
... Sounds to me like there is no cheap and simple laminator out there that is really suitable for our job so I have not bothered buying one. On the other
2013-10-31 by Harvey White
... You re dealing with three variables, pressure, temperature, and time. You want enough pressure to make sure the toner transfers well, but not enough to
2013-10-31 by Mitch Davis
Hello Mukundan, On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 4:15 AM, Mukundan Parthasarathy ... Ha, you re gonna get a lot of opinions :-) ... Many people say nice things about
2013-10-30 by <wcasse@...>
another vote for Diptrace. my PCB design area of interest is for keyboards, so big with relatively low pin count too (by the way, skip toner transfer and go
2013-10-30 by Forbes, Doug
The results with a flat iron are too variable which laminator is best ? Thanks for any advice. Doug
2013-10-30 by <doug.forbes@...>
I want to try a laminator and dump the iron. Which one seems to be the best ? Thanks Doug
2013-10-29 by Raymond
Hi all, Has anyone used a heat-press for toner transfer the sort of press that is use for printing t-shirts. These seem to have the right temperature range and
2013-10-29 by Aaron Turner
In Diptrace: File- Import- DXF Not sure why you didn t think it was supported? -- Aaron Turner http://synfin.net/ Twitter: @synfinatic
2013-10-29 by KeepIt SimpleStupid
One capability, I m looking for is the ability to define the boad outline by a DXF or similar file. The Instruction for Eagle doesn t mention it. I don t
2013-10-29 by Sam Rod
All, I have used both Eagle and Diptrace. I started with Eagle lo000ong ago and then switched over to Diptrace. Neither one is a bad choice. I however prefer
2013-10-29 by <dubob4432@...>
I spent about a 1 1/2 years with eagle, then a friend turned me on to diptrace and in about 4mos I was running at about the same speed I was with eagle.
2013-10-29 by Aaron Turner
Diptrace is easy to learn and pretty powerful. I definitely found it easier to learn then Eagle. In the end though, I ended up switching to Eagle because it
2013-10-29 by <beefyzee@...>
Hi Mukundan, the last two or three weeks I ve been learning Diptrace. The free version has a 300 pin limit but no board size limit, and you get a pretty good
2013-10-29 by <doug.forbes@...>
Which laminator is best for PCB work ? I want to buy one but I m not sure about which one nor the modifications that are required. The archived files don t
2013-10-29 by Paul Meli
Designspark PCB...free as in beer. http://www.designspark.com Seems like pretty good system. PC only. Sent from my iPad
2013-10-29 by tda7000
I have never used vinyl but I had problems with TT and mushing of the image when trying to use an iron that I suspect was too hot. I had a clothes iron on
2013-10-29 by Mark Harrison
Hi Mike, I may try that. It’s probably easier than trying to figure out the 1,000+1 option settings in Altium or recompiling the GerbEx program. Cheers,
2013-10-29 by <andrewm1973@...>
Fred, I use both positive photoresist (pre coated boards) and negative photoresists (laminated at home). The positive resist is thin and fragile. It does not
2013-10-28 by <mbushroe@...>
I have never worked with Altium, and have not even taken a close look at Gerber files. Are the complex commands essentially combinations of simpler ones? If
2013-10-28 by <kkoppert@...>
Bruce Scientific http://www.brucescientific.com has technical grade at $27 / L ... I have also looked (lazily admittedly) for Amyl Acetate in nz also to no
2013-10-28 by Mark Harrison
Hi, GerbEx (from SourceForge) also looks very good, and can use different sized cutters for isolating and large area rubout operations. Unfortunately in my
2013-10-27 by len.turnbow
Homebrew Printed Circuit Boards ... Yes! PCB antennas in my case. Could this be accomplished by specifying a large diameter cutter initially then a smaller
2013-10-27 by Mukundan Parthasarathy
Dear Experts, I intend to start using a PCB tool to make my own homebrew PCBs. I have used PADS long ago, and even PCAD. But I m looking for a free E-CAD tool
2013-10-26 by Boman33
Clearance is needed for high voltage/safety reasons in some cases. Sometimes clearance is needed for RF and low capacitance designs. Bertho From: Paul
2013-10-26 by Paul Alciatore
Why do you have to remove large areas of copper? All you need to do is cut a narrow path around the desired conductor traces and just leave the rest of the
2013-10-26 by <cs6061@...>
I have used Line Grinder on a couple of boards. It worked well for me but like any software there is some messing around until you get it figured out. It
2013-10-26 by James
I have also looked (lazily admittedly) for Amyl Acetate in nz also to no success - I wanted to try thinning very very very slightly the soldermask paint (which
2013-10-26 by Kerry Koppert
I purchased some of this stuff off ebay some time ago and I ve just got round to testing it. First up I had to find a thinner (what the seller calls diluent)
2013-10-25 by Randall Morgan
I do not know of any freeware or inexpensive software that allows the use of multiple mills. I hope someone else does as I too could use something like that.
2013-10-25 by <rf33333@...>
PhCNC is one of the best software for pcb milling: www.accuratecnc.com http://www.accuratecnc.com , http://www.accuratecnc.com/comparisonWithOthers.php
2013-10-22 by <fred27murphy@...>
Thanks for your comments. It s good to know that people on here are interested in more than just how to do toner transfer. I think the ziplock bag would have
2013-10-22 by <twgray2007@...>
As indicated in the first post, I DID print onto the vinyl in my first tests. However, I did remove the backing in order to stick the vinyl to a piece of
2013-10-21 by earlannis@...
Don t remove the backing!!! Print on the vinyl! Then place the toner on clean copper, add a piece or two of plain paper as a pad, and iron for 2 minutes at the
2013-10-21 by <twgray2007@...>
I actually did give this a try. The backing has a super slick waxy finish and at a glance looks perfect for the application. However, it was so slick the
2013-10-21 by RDHeiliger
should have been 0.5 mm parts RD
2013-10-21 by AlienRelics
This has been discussed before, but since the subject of the CriCut and sign vinyl has come up:
2013-10-21 by AlienRelics
That is a rather odd surface to use. But worth a try. Have you tried using the backing? Remove the vinyl, and print onto the slippery side of the backing, then
2013-10-21 by Tony Smith
... Sign vinyl is the adhesive backed stuff for decals, you cut names etc out of it and stick on work vans and so on. Some of it is meant to be printed on,
2013-10-21 by Jack Schmidling
... My wife found some vinyl document folders that didn t work at all. One side is sort of pebble finish and was hopeless. The other side is shiny but the
2013-10-20 by Harvey White
... The laser printer is not related to the thickness of the board. Any good laser printer will work as long as you pay attention to the density, DPI, and
2013-10-20 by <krisfr@...>
I have not thing but a common house hold IRON to work with. Please tell me the best inexpensive laser printer to buy in today s market. I have a laminator but