Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Stubborn ferric chloride etching.
2014-01-10 by Rick Watson
Do you do this after the board has already been developed and dried, then hardened, or is this how you do the initial develop? --Rick
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2014-01-10 by Rick Watson
Do you do this after the board has already been developed and dried, then hardened, or is this how you do the initial develop? --Rick
2014-01-10 by Kevin Byrne
Try Green TRF by Pulsar pro to protect traces. I use a GPC Creative Laminator instead of a iron but I used a household clothing iron with that etchant to
2014-01-10 by Mukundan Parthasarathy
Jim, Thank you very much! Your tutorial is excellent and the additional links you have provided were most informative. I hadn t realized that there is so
2014-01-10 by Russell Shaw
... The ferric chloride should be diluted 1:1 with water and have some (like 1-5%) HCl added. For best results, use bubble agitation and keep the etchant
2014-01-10 by James
Sounds like a toner density problem to me. Using less peroxide will slow the etch down, but if it s taking 5 minutes, I think that s slow enough already.
2014-01-10 by James
Is it fresh? Ferric Chloride does get worn out, the more copper it takes on, the slower it will work, until eventually you ll be there forever. I d suggest
2014-01-10 by Geoff Wood
... From: richanny@yahoo.co.uk To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 9:44 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Stubborn ferric chloride
2014-01-10 by Geoff Wood
... From: tom42107@yahoo.com ... If your copper is pitted, then your resist is not working. Maybe ferric chloride or ammonium persulphate would be gentler on
2014-01-09 by <tom42107@...>
I m not happy with my etching. I m using FR4, 1oz. copper boards. My copper cleaning is very thorough and my toner transfer is very dark and even. My etchant
2014-01-09 by <richanny@...>
Using plain hydrated ferric chloride etch, warmed up a little, the last two boards done have been really stubborn to etch away the bridges between narrow
2014-01-09 by <seeifyoucanmeetme@...>
Thanks for the tips everyone! I picked up some Fellowes Heat Transfer Color Foil and did a side-by-side comparison. The results are strikingly better with
2014-01-07 by Jim
... I made some two sided boards a year ago and took pictures: http://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/category/controller-area-network-2/ was very satisfied with the
2014-01-07 by Mukundan Parthasarathy
Thank you, Harvey, for the detailed response. It helped me greatly. Mukundan ________________________________ From: Harvey White To:
2014-01-02 by Harvey White
... If it s the green TRF from pulsar, then run it through twice on the highest setting. The pigment should transfer completely, leaving the foil carrier
2014-01-02 by Brian Symons
I recently bought a colour laser. I found that it can t handle any thick material at all because of the way the paper path & several passes works. That info
2014-01-02 by chuck adams
Sorry, forgot to mention that I am also using a Samsung printer, model ML-2545. chuck, k7qo
2014-01-02 by chuck adams
... I will try to help. First I use Hammermill Laser Gloss paper, so my technique may be different. Several things that I have found that help prevent
2014-01-02 by <seeifyoucanmeetme@...>
Hi everyone, I ve been using the toner-transfer method with vinyl for some time now, but I m consistently running into a pitting issue across all of my boards.
2014-01-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2013-12-31 by Harvey White
... No, not quite. You use a laser printer (B&W). Plain paper may work, special kinds of paper (e.g. Pulsar paper) work better. You may have to experiment
2013-12-30 by Mukundan Parthasarathy
I m starting out to make my first prototype pcb and I need help. I have decided to try the toner transfer method because that seems the easiest (no need to get
2013-12-30 by Mukundan Parthasarathy
I m starting out to make my first prototype pcb and I need help. I have decided to try the toner transfer method because that seems the easiest (no need to get
2013-12-30 by Tim Gibbs
Hi, My solution is not to buy a new laser printer. I still have a couple of old HP Cannon engine printers mainly because they have not yet broken down and are
2013-12-29 by Geoff Wood
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alsomotka78@yahoo.com Sent: Monday, 23 December 2013 5:07 a.m.
2013-12-24 by DJ Delorie
I typically use just under the boiling point of water (200F/93C) in case there s any trapped water on the board. If I know it s dry, I ll use a little hotter,
2013-12-23 by Russell Shaw
... This one says the laminator temperature should be 110 +/-
2013-12-23 by James Sleeman
... Interesting, I guess that s for a laminator, which will mean the film and board itself must be a lot cooler without prolonged contact with the heating
2013-12-23 by Russell Shaw
... It is commonly 100 or 110degC. If 100degC stuff is done at 110degC it wrinkles, or blisters if there s humidity trapped.
2013-12-23 by James
Does anybody actually know what the required (or recommended) adhesion temperature for typical negative acting dry film is? I for some reason thought it was
2013-12-23 by tda7000
If it turns out that no laser printers will work any more, I don t think it matters. The photoresist method will still work with any laser printer, resist film
2013-12-22 by <alsomotka78@...>
The PnP Blue and GBC is good. Problem is the new toner supplied to most B&W laser printers does NOT release(melt) onto the copper. The manufacturer has
2013-12-19 by <leeleduc@...>
Pulsar has some info about color laser printers. Here s the link, info at bottom of page. http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/tech_support/miscellaneous.html
2013-12-19 by <n0tt1@...>
Assuming that both color and black toner print equally and are both rugged, I would go with the black, simply because the colored toner is so much more
2013-12-18 by Steve
Any difference or preference in using a color laser printer versus a black and white laser printer for toner transfer? I have a vague recollection of reading
2013-12-14 by <paul@...>
Sure, that s definitely a possibility. I m in South Florida. Anyone in the Palm Beach, Broward, or Miami areas would be close enough.
2013-12-14 by Norm
... Where are you located? Maybe someone nearby could pick up without packing/shipping. Norm
2013-12-14 by <paul@...>
Hi everyone, I used to make dev boards and one-off PCB s at home, so I have a bit of PCB making equipment laying around. I ve been reading the Homebrew PCB
2013-12-12 by AlienRelics
Here is someone who used a laminator from Harbor Freight, modified by using a light dimmer to slow down the motor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg0ARoUSHfA
2013-12-12 by <sylentskyes@...>
Hi, I m new to the group and joined because I am interested in using the toner transfer method to etch images into copper. I saw that it was a method used to
2013-12-07 by <dgminala@...>
Yes, I contacted Pace and APE. APE carries spares for older Pace equipment. A fellow at Pace sent me a copy of the manual for the PPS-100A power unit. I have
2013-12-06 by David Bobb
I would agree with Paul on getting a different station. We had those Pace rework stations at work, and were constantly having to replace the glass tube in
2013-12-06 by Paul Alciatore
Have you tried contacting Pace? http://www.paceworldwide.com/contact-us They probably supply repair parts. At least they should, considering the outrageous
2013-12-06 by Kianush Azari
i am sir after that in protuse make pcb then print with printer option i think epson has it ... -- kiya
2013-12-06 by Kianush Azari
lasssssssssser ... -- kiya
2013-12-05 by dgminala
I ve been given an old Pace PPS-100A desoldering unit, but without a handpiece. Does anyone have any documentation for this unit, or at least know which
2013-12-05 by Donald H Locker
looks interesting. Another direct ink-jet to PCB
2013-12-04 by Scott Stephens
20nm silver nanoparticles sprayed from Brother inkjet on glossy photopaper, PET, other substrates. Next problem, gluing the chip on. They suggest silver epoxy
2013-12-01 by Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change
2013-11-27 by Steve
Anyone use Press-n-Peel Blue with a laminator? Does it successfully transfer the toner to the PCB material? Things to do or not do to make a good job of it? I
2013-11-27 by Paul Alciatore
Oh, I missed the step where you wash off the uncured areas. Now it makes sense. Thanks!