Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Copper Clad Board any chemists here?
2016-11-26 by Rob
I ve been using drug store 3% peroxide .... 100 mL mixed with 50 mL hardware store 30% muriactic acid. I am NO chemist. Do we have any chemists here that can
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2016-11-26 by Rob
I ve been using drug store 3% peroxide .... 100 mL mixed with 50 mL hardware store 30% muriactic acid. I am NO chemist. Do we have any chemists here that can
2016-11-25 by Cecil Bayona
... Apache AL13P, I have two of them, on one is in the box has not been opened and is a backup. For a while they were really cheap so I bought a spare. The kit
2016-11-25 by alan00463@...
... Which one [laminator] did you buy, Cecil ?
2016-11-24 by cs6061@...
For drilling I use a small hand held DC motor fitted with a pin chuck. A foot switch is used to activate the motor and when the switch is released it shorts
2016-11-24 by Roland Harriston
Malcom and all: I may be wrong, but I think that anything that will oxidize copper will work. Then something like muriatic acid will dissolve the copper
2016-11-24 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Kevin I use Edinburg etch with food grade citric acid. 10 minutes to etch a 6 x 4 board at 30 C. 6 years old and still going strong, etch time has
2016-11-24 by Cecil Bayona
... You still need to do the hardware modifications to allow a thicker board thru the unit. I bough one from Jamesco and it works well, I don t have to sit
2016-11-24 by gebowes@...
I would not be too sure this is the equivalent model to the one on the Pulsar site. Note the temperature control and meter on the Pulsar site versus this one
2016-11-24 by alienrelics@...
All that the hydrogen peroxide is giving to the mix is oxygen. So you can bubble the etchant rather than adding more hydrogen peroxide.
2016-11-24 by Harvey White
... The 12 volt proxxon will do fine, I have used both. Avoid Dremel, the runout is bad. It s not designed with as much precision as the proxxon. No
2016-11-24 by AncelB
Hi, do u think that laminator would benefit from a mod like this one? https://cdn.hackaday.io/files/3363143882592/Toner-Transfer-laminator%20video.mp4
2016-11-24 by Kevin Byrne
Very well, there is a beauty store close by for me to try out for size.
2016-11-24 by Donald H Locker
Perhaps you should try buying peroxide at a real store. A pharmacy will have fresher peroxide; a beauty supply store will carry stronger concentrations. Fresh
2016-11-24 by Kevin Byrne
Has an one used this laminator also listed on pulsar site to help other person who
2016-11-24 by Kevin Byrne
I am right back to square on not being able to afford proxion and am looking at carbide drill and press seen at jameco.com but with no spec sheet. Jameco.com
2016-11-24 by roylowenthal@...
Carbide is too brittle to use free hand, HSS dulls too rapidly in the abrasive board. (I once bought a box of carbide re-sharps - some of the smaller ones
2016-11-24 by David Martin
I have been getting good results with a 50/50 mix of muratic and 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, and I add table salt to accelerate the etching. ... -- David Martin -
2016-11-24 by Steve B.
I have one and it s made pretty well. It feeds just about anything I ve been able to throw at it. Heats up really well also. I will check on the thickness of
2016-11-24 by duwaynes@...
When using muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide, the etching time mostly depends on the concentration of hydrogen peroxide used. I usually get 12% peroxide
2016-11-23 by Kevin Byrne
Now I understand your cross hair system except I use Eagle freeware. Oval pads with a round drill hole in the center. Drill bits are .019, .025 .035 & .040.
2016-11-23 by Rob
The secret to hand tool success is the etched hole: http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/pic/PIC16F628PROTO8d.jpg
2016-11-23 by Kevin Byrne
Results of test are in.1 Amount of total brd space 3 3/4in times 4 1/4in times two sides.2 sanded brd done first, sos done a close second & untreated brd third
2016-11-23 by smblkchevy@...
I just bought one last week. It s a nice machine. I read somewhere on the pcbx.com web site that the maximum thickness is 0.040 . I m to scared to try the
2016-11-23 by kbyrne10@...
I will try you test brds today and post results.
2016-11-23 by Kevin Byrne
Very well, I will have to look into drilling more carefully. Thanks to all for your help.Drilling during days ago with direct etched gave me good results but I
2016-11-23 by Dave Sage
DON t Center punch. That s what s delaminating the copper that s becoming the pad. Normally you have a small hole etched in the copper at the center of the
2016-11-23 by James
Despite your cleaning, my first inclination would still be some coating or other. If you have some more of that suspect blank stock, it might be interesting to
2016-11-23 by Kevin Byrne
Right now run out prevents me from useing my carbide bits plus no drill press. I am going to try aligning transparent brds on bare copper brds then center
2016-11-23 by alan00463@...
Does anybody have the Tamerica Model: SM-330 laminator shown and sold here ? http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/products/applicator.html
2016-11-23 by Donald H Locker
High speed steel will dull very quickly in FR4. Carbide drills are the only way to go. As soon as the drill dulls (within seconds) it starts to grab the
2016-11-23 by <n0tt1@...>
I m a QSL card printer....you might try one of these or equivalent. This co wants you to register , but you might find one of these locally at a well-stocked
2016-11-22 by kbyrne10@...
I scrubbed with sos pads then wiped clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Hydrogen Peroxide DG Health brand bought at dollar store, 91% isopropyl alcohol Rite Aid
2016-11-22 by alienrelics@...
MIS PRO magenta or yellow, but yellow is reported to work better as an etch resist. http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/c84-st.htm
2016-11-22 by James
Did you adequately clean the pcbs before applying your resist? Usually i find blank pcbs have some sort of coating or treatment to prevent oxidation, of course
2016-11-22 by Rob
I only use the thinnest cheapest Chinese ... 70x100mm PCBs from EBAY What do you mean by center punched? Smacked a hammer and nail against the copper pads? I
2016-11-22 by kbyrne10@...
I recently etched some thin brds .032 size with muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide per 3/4 cup muratic acid & 1 & 1/2 cup hydrogen peroxide mixture. I coated
2016-11-22 by Rob
I m not looking to plot a massive circuit. I just wanted to find the right ink for a .5mm technical pen or fine point marker that would draw a trace on copper
2016-11-22 by Dave Wade
... I have an HP7475 plotter. I have once used a much modified RED Lumicolor pen to make one test board, and found the etch time fairly critical, but I would
2016-11-22 by Dennis Shelgren
I think magenta was the magic color. Modern epson printers can use it too. Fairly impervious for etching as it was for anti-acid archival prints , whatever
2016-11-22 by Brad Thompson
... ... Hello-- I dimly recall investigating the use of an HP 7475 pen plotter for ink-on-copperclad direct trace layout-- the time frame would have
2016-11-22 by Dennis Shelgren
There are still shops that sell resist ink that can be used in plotters. Cleaning and filling a pen is a PITA though. Now I m trying the paint a board and
2016-11-22 by Rob
Not sure if the dating on this make a difference...... I bought HEWLETT PACKARD Disposable Liquid-Ink drafting Pens .5mm Medium Point HP Part no 5061-7620
2016-11-22 by Dennis Shelgren
If that fails, I could laser up some stamps.. On Nov 21, 2016 5:37 PM, David Martin davemrtn@centurytel.net ... If that fails, I could laser up some stamps..
2016-11-22 by David Martin
Brad, Very interesting, please keep us posted on how this goes. NA1MH ... -- David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. ... How much longer do I have to wait
2016-11-21 by Brad
Okay so I m giving this a try and thought I d share for others who found themselves in my situation. I am doing reproductions of vintage TV Typewriter boards
2016-11-17 by Rob
Don t know if this will work in a technical pen... will try it...: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111446456118 But it IS the ink to refill the STAEDTLER LUMOCOLOR
2016-11-17 by Brad
So that color was intentional? I had some folks elsewhere suggest it was simply the natural color of the material. Yeah, any way I can get closer to that look
2016-11-17 by keith printy
I’ve been following this discussion and since the etch seems to affect certain colors,is it possible the dyes are metallic based and the etching soloution
2016-11-16 by Dennis Shelgren
I think it s now considered chassis or front panel material. That off green, nearly pastel seaweed color. HP probably still has the color code somewhere in
2016-11-16 by Rob
I think RED would have worked with more coverage. Not sure about BLUE though. Definitely worked well with GREEN and BLACK :