Homebrew PCBs

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> 
> Denny mentioned using a silicone roller under the drum to take the toner,  
> and trasnfer it to a heated board.
> Me personally, i think it is too complicated a mod to be worth the  
> time-savings, but if you want to try...
> 
> 
> ST
> 


   Well I think that anything that worked well direct to board would be worth it 
in short order, the long term ease would beat out a little work to make it. 
Less complex would still be better of course..

   I have the 6L service manual from the net now, it has excellent general 
reference ideas besides just the specifics for the printer.  The paper path is 
reasonably straight once you ignore the vertical in and out paper parts.  They 
canted the fuser slightly, but a little work and it could be straightened out. 
Slots and springs instead of just screw holes to take the thickness of a board 
would be the only other mods needed from the look of it, besides the entry and 
exit of course.  With the service manual for disassembly and 4 spare mechanics, 
it'll get tried soon.  One or two already have cracked up cases too, so not even 
a second thought to do major mods.

   And the corona wire is in the cartridge, so above the paper not below.  Even 
with mobile electrons on the face of the board going to the ends instead of just 
across the thickness, it's still attracting the opposite charge near to the 
corona wire and drum, just like for paper.  So near the wire is the correct 
charge for printing, unlike what happens with a below the paper corona wire with 
a conductive surface to print on.  This may explain why I got imaged prints even 
with larger sections of taped on aluminum foil while many printers don't, they 
just flaked off easily from the smooth foil and poorer fusing to a heat 
conductor.  The mechanical mods and making the fuser a bit hotter or preheating 
the board a bit may be all that is needed for direct printing with these 
printers.  I'll be checking it out very soon since it might be that simple.

Alan