Homebrew PCBs

I think people print on the shiney side.  The transfered traces should
look black (well, actually a very very very dark blue).  If you see
copper through them, you aren't getting enough on.

you should try etching the board.  That's the real test.  You will
know if you are getting enough toner down.

How "thick" is the toner on the paper before you iron?  How much toner
is left on the paper after you peel it off?  You should have little to
none left on the paper.  I've had poor luck with the picture/photo
paper - my traces were getting crushed and widened.  I much prefer
inkjet paper - much cheaper and very tolerant of different degrees of
pressure.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am trying to make a pcb using the toner transfer method and have a 
> couple questions regarding it. I hope someone can shed some 
> expertise on them for me.
> 
> 1) I purchased the Staples picture paper and printed a pattern out 
> on my Laser printer but I am unsure as to which side to print on. I 
> am assuming that you print on the glossy side but after doing that 
> and ironing it on a clean acetoned PCB the pattern seemed to 
> transfer to it but its not as dark as I have seen on some websites 
> and some traces are broken in the middle. My trace width is .020 
> which is not that thin. So I thought maybe I am using the wrong side?
> 
> 2) How long do you heat the paper for? I tried it for at least 1 
> minute to where it was so hot it sizzled in the water. The back of 
> the paper was turning yellowish from the heat but maybe it needs to 
> be longer? It peeled off pretty easy and it left a whitish substance 
> on the traces which I am assuming is paper. I scrubbed that off but 
> the traces like I said are kindof weak.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help!