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Re: Beginner questions on building a homebrew TT laminator

2004-07-29 by mikezcnc

I wrote what I think about other kinds of papers before I read your 
not, kind of sensing that someone might not like what I wrote.

Please notice, that I am not telling you what paper to use, I am 
telling you and others what works for me after a year of experiments 
trying to fuse paper to copper. Rememebr that it all depends on what 
kind of detail one wants to achieve; I am talking about very fine SMD 
detail. I tried all kinds of papers with all kinds of results and the 
most success rate I had was 70% of image transfered and the rest was 
falling off easily in water. I spent lots of time cleaning, washing 
and activating the copper and all was fruitless. IMO ironing does not 
work for me as it is too finicky and unpredictable. If it's working 
for you, that's great. What works for sure and like a dream is the HC 
200 laminator and paper mentioned by Gootee. Now I am getting 
terrific results that are comparable to a photgtaphic method. Again, 
I do not care what you are using or not, what conductor is better or 
not. For me the most important thing is to know and tell the 
interested people on this board, which combination works, works 
repeatadly and all the time. To say that I am amazed with the results 
of TT is not enough. Do other laminators work? I don't know and I am 
not even interested in it. My HC 200 is small, next to my printer 
looks great and does its work like a dream. Hopefully you understand 
my point.  If you are happy with your method and results, that is 
awsome because I tested that method and for me it's like a rulette 
and I can recognize a rulette when I see one.

Mike



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> For the simple fact that many of us very successfully use other 
paper 
> and different methods of fusing toner to copper.  Speaking just for 
> myself, I dont like to hear xxx is the only thing you need to know, 
> especially when I have a different technique that works quite well. 
> 
> Many of us use a good quality ink jet paper with excellent 
results.  
> You cant beat the cost of $0.01 per sheet.  It sure makes it easy 
to 
> experiment at a very low cost.  Others use magazine paper to good 
> effect (though I dont like it because of "blooming").  Others use 
> glossy or photo paper.  The reality is that there are a suprising 
> number of papers that work with somewhat different techniques.  
> Frankly, I think any paper sold for toner transfer is grossly over 
> priced.
> 
> There are several ways to fuse the toner to copper.  Irons or 
> homebrew laser printer fusers are successfuly used.  I've toyed 
with 
> the idea of baking two steel plates that sandwitch the paper/board 
> assembly in the oven. 
> 
> 



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> For the simple fact that many of us very successfully use other 
paper 
> and different methods of fusing toner to copper.  Speaking just for 
> myself, I dont like to hear xxx is the only thing you need to know, 
> especially when I have a different technique that works quite well. 
> 
> Many of us use a good quality ink jet paper with excellent 
results.  
> You cant beat the cost of $0.01 per sheet.  It sure makes it easy 
to 
> experiment at a very low cost.  Others use magazine paper to good 
> effect (though I dont like it because of "blooming").  Others use 
> glossy or photo paper.  The reality is that there are a suprising 
> number of papers that work with somewhat different techniques.  
> Frankly, I think any paper sold for toner transfer is grossly over 
> priced.
> 
> There are several ways to fuse the toner to copper.  Irons or 
> homebrew laser printer fusers are successfuly used.  I've toyed 
with 
> the idea of baking two steel plates that sandwitch the paper/board 
> assembly in the oven. 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> 
wrote:
> > Why is it a wrong statement that HC200 and Gootee paper is not 
all 
> > there is to TT? You don't have to make any changes to it if doing 
> > 0.040 PCBs. And small chenges for 0.060 IAW provided link 
> > www.pulsar.gs

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