--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote: > On Tue, 18 May 2004 10:40:31 -0000, onenastyviper > <oneNastyViper@h...> wrote: > > > Maplins has the hexahydrate, I thought there was two types: > > hexahydrate and another anhydrous one? > > Don't ask me if there is a difference, I haven't studied any chemistry > > but on a website its said to use the hexahydrate not the anhydrous > > one??? > > This etching chemistry is complicated...all I want to do is etch > > small circuits in a little tub with the least amount of hassle with > > easy availble and reasonably safe chemicals (ie I don't want to wipe > > out a little part of swinton:-P) > > > > PK > > > The chemistry is not really complicated, if you want to maintain a good > etchant > with least cost and no waste it is complicated. > If you only want to make the occassional pcb and don't care if you put in > 5cent or 10cent worth of chemicals then you need not regard the chemistry > much. > > I still suggest using CuCl. > A simple and effective etching tank is a tupperware container. > The flat ones work just fine, the PCB need not be vertical and you need > much less etchant than in e.g. a cerial container. > The lid is tight enough to prevent vapor escaping, and also prevents a > disaster > if you knock the tank over while in storage. > For single-sided pcbs a piece of tape makes a great pcb handle. > For CuCl you only need HCl (Muriatic acid), and H2O2, which is both easy > to get > hold of. > > The procedure when etching is to place the board in the ethant and add a > small > amount of H2O2. Then it etches, you take the board out, put the etchant > away, > and reuse next time again only adding a small amount of H2O2. > > If one day the etching stops and you see blue sludge on the copper the HCl > is spent. > add a bit and on it goes again. > > That is all the chemistry involved for the occassional PCB. > > ST I'm no chemist, but HCL is hydrogen and Clorene ? H2O2 is hydrogen and oxygen. add Sodium bi-carbonate (ie: Baking Soda, not baking powder) to the mix and you bind the oxygen to the carbon and get CO2 and that is harmless in small quantities The CL is bound to the sodium so you get NaCL or salt and that is harmlelss in small quantities. So... for the end of life thing you wind up with copper as the big problem. Once neutrlaized, the above mix can be dried without releasing any air born toxins and leave you with the dried powders. Those you can probably reduce to some very small size provided you didn't just dump a box of baking soda into the bowl. Then put at in a plastic bag and and mark NaHCO3 - baking soda NaCL- from HCL and NaHCO3 reaction Cu - copper and drop off at your local hazardous waste facility. Is my chemistry correct ? Would electrolysos in a container with a box of baking soda on top be anohter way to reduce the hazards ? Dave
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Re: First PCB.... neutralizing the HCL
2004-05-18 by Dave Mucha
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