Homebrew PCBs

Thanks, Stefan. The ink I have is thick and black. The thickness is
why a grooved point is necessary. Although the post I mentioned says
this ink is made for plotting on copper that's not what the tech rep
for Staedtler says. It's for plotting on very smooth surfaces.

I will keep my eyes out for a suitable plotter pen. And a plotter if I
can find a source of free ones <g>.

I do use toner transfer and am quite happy with it. I guess I just
can't leave well enough alone.

Grant

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:

> don't build a plotter ;-) ask the local pc gurus, i got mine for
free with 
> a load of pens.
> However, there was no carbide pen included :-(.
> I have read the same text you have read and tried to find a carbide pen.
> finally got one at ebay, but not one, more like 10 or more instead at 
> ebay...
> still for some eur 30 or so..
> 
> i have one set carbide tipped pens and one set steel pens.
> only the smallest (0,18mm) has a X-groove. however this does not change 
> much in my opinion.
> 
> Of course i tried several of the pens with staedtler red ink.
> The problem was that the ink layer is thinner than with a felt tip, the 
> trailing edge
> of the metal tip seems to "scrape off" a part of the layer.
> 
> Finally i gave it up, i still have the 25x pocket microscope from this 
> ebay auction and
> also some other stuff - so it was not too bad a deal.
> The plotter pens i have are not even complete pens, they are only
exchange 
> tips, but they
> contain the complete mechanism with wire and spring and all. had to
build 
> an adapter for them.
> 
> Of course you can try it, i can't stop you from wasting your time.
maybe 
> if you don't want
> to do more detailed work like smd it might just work.
> You must use a low-acid etchant, like ferric cloride (i think) or CuCl 
> with low acid content.
> 
> One thing that definitely works is using a felt-tip pen to apply the
ink. 
> but it is hard to get
> any fine enough trace width with it.
> 
> Again, i can't stop you, i can only tell you that i had a perfect toner 
> transfer result (with things
> like 6,66mil traces) with WAY lower time and WAY lower money investment.
> 
> 
> I'm still planning on setting up the plotter for component layout
one day.
> (the problem with that is that i need to update my librarys as i never 
> payd any attention to the
> component outline..)
> 
> 
> If you really want to do it get a plotter (dont build) and buy a
expensive 
> pen,
> then try, fail, and finally become a toner transfer convert like me ;-).
> 
> If everything works out perfectly you will still have design
limitations, 
> like no holes in the
> pads, limited track width, etc... and plotting will be MUCH slower than 
> making a toner transfer.
> 
> 
> Well, a teacher once told me the experience is all that counts, not the 
> result, so i really
> shouldn't try to stop you experimenting.
> 
> 
> Best of luck, you will need it..
> 
> And don't forget to use a "soft" etchant... no 35%Hcl with a load of
H2O2 
> ;-)
> 
> If you have any questions feel free to ask.
> 
> ST