Homebrew PCBs

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> I thought so too first ;-)
> i thought gravy, with the fat/grease and all, that is never
> going to work. (i didn't believe my dictionary)
> 
> but then, when it was said to use flour or starch i can well believe it.
> i may actually try it some day too...
> 


   Yes, same here.  The idea is more understandable when you realize that this 
is more familiar to most as paper mache glue not really gravy.  Sticking to the 
page yet releasing easier than the paper makes much more sense then.  I'll be 
trying it out today.

   And he just mentioned that large areas don't work as well.  They work fine on 
the jetprint paper, but I suspect that may be as much his printer as the paper. 
  All lasers have some degree of less printing on large areas, part of how they 
work.  Then again the glue covered paper could be interfering and making it a 
bit worse.  Conductivity can interfere, so if my initial prints aren't perfect 
I'll bake a sheet or two so I know it's completely dry.

   Even with some extra prep work it's all very simple, as long as the rest 
works as well or better I'll switch.  No sense bothering to buy the other papers 
if this little bit of prep now and then makes something as good out of regular 
paper.  And I like the idea of being able to control your coating's consistency, 
that means things can be adjusted until the best point of toner adhesion and 
later release from the paper are found.  I'm following some PM glue 
instructions, but I'm going to try consderably less water than called for since 
PM is only trying to make a very sparse coating that just glues here and there. 
  Shouldn't need so much water even for a thin coating when actually trying to 
coat the page.

Alan